Category: Helping Dogs

How to Take a Dog’s Temperature Without Using a Thermometer

May 1, 2018 Comments Off on How to Take a Dog’s Temperature Without Using a Thermometer Helping Dogs

Knowing whether your dog has a fever gives you the option to start treatment early and prevent her condition from getting worse. Although the only way to accurately know if your dog has a fever is by using a rectal thermometer, knowing how to feel a dog’s temperature quickly when you do not have a thermometer can make a big difference.

Part1

Assessing Your Dog’s Temperature

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    Feel your dog’s ears and paws. A dog with fever usually has very hot ears and paws. You can gauge his temperature by using sensitive body parts like your cheeks and the back of your hands over his ears and paws. Are his warmer than yours? Healthy dogs only run slightly higher in temperature than humans.

    • A dog’s ears and paws have a lot of blood vessels. When he has a fever, these areas get hot because of the migration of immune cells from the blood into the areas of the body where an infection is taking place. The increase in the circulating immune cells in the blood can manifest as heat in the blood vessels.
    • It is unusual for the left and right ear to be different temperatures. If one ear is warmer than the other, this is usually a sign of a localized ear infection, rather than a generalized fever.
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    Feel your dog’s nose. If your dog has a hot nose lined with greenish or yellowish nasal discharge, it’s likely he has a fever and an infection.[1] This could mean that your dog is fighting off a respiratory infection, though this may be evident only in more serious cases. Certain diseases like distemper and kennel cough have these clinical signs, too. Therefore it is incredibly important that you quickly bring your dog to the vet if you see greenish or yellowish nasal discharges.

    • A normal dog can have a fluctuating temperature and level of wetness – it’s a myth that dog noses are always cold and wet. In fact, the nose often becomes dry from common situations, such as lying in the sun, sleeping near the radiator, exercising, or when the dog is dehydrated. What does your dog’s nose normally feel like? Has he done any of these things recently to account for a dry, hot nose?
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    Feel your dog’s armpits and groin area. These areas are usually swollen and hot when your dog has an infection and fever. You can use the back of your hands to feel for heat in the lymph nodes in the armpits and groin area. However, make sure your own hands are at room temperature, not chilled or hot, as they provide your reference point.

    • Lymph nodes contain immune cells that fight bacteria and viruses. They filter the blood against these infectious organisms, and when there is an infection, the lymph nodes serve as a defense area. This area then becomes filled with immune cells that secrete different substances that trigger the brain to cause fever. These areas become swollen and hot because they become inflamed as a result of the different immune reactions going on simultaneously.
    • Because the armpit and groin areas of the dog have a lot of exposed skin with very little fur, feeling for heat in these areas can be done easily.
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    Examine his gums. Your dog’s gums may feel warm and dry if he has a fever. Another important sign to watch for here is his gums appearing redder than usual, especially a bright brick red. This can be a sign of high fever, or even septicemia.

    • In a dog without dental disease, the gums should be moist, shiny, and a similar pink color to our own gums. Lift up the dog’s lip behind the upper canine tooth, and place the tip of your forefinger against the gum to assess temperature and moistness. Is the color, heat, and moistness similar to yours? If not, infection may be present.
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    Check for signs of low temperature. An unwell dog, or one in shock, may have a low body temperature. In addition to having cold extremities, the dog may show physiological temperature adaptations such as shaking or getting goosebumps. A dog with a dangerously low temperature will also be very subdued, and possibly collapsed. In this case, seek out your vet immediately.

    • Be aware that not all shaking dogs are cold; this can also be a response to stress, anxiety or pain. If you know of no reason for your dog to be acting like this, contact your vet as soon as possible.

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Part 1 Quiz

Why is the armpit or groin area a good place to check your dog for a fever?

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Part2

Assessing Your Dog’s Appearance

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    Look for the other signs of fever. Apart from physical temperature, one of the first things you can do is to observe your dog for other physical signs of fever. It’s important to be alert for changes in normal behavior from having difficulty defecating, to coughing or sneezing, since this may provide vital information as to the seat of infection.[2]Possible symptoms include:[3]

    • Poor appetite
    • Lethargy, sluggishness or inactivity
    • Weakness
    • Vomiting
    • Diarrhea
    • Sleeping all day
    • Withdrawing away from other dogs
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    Observe your dog’s appearance and behavior. When a dog runs a significant fever, from a few feet away and without touching him, you can feel heat radiating from his body. There will be a handful of other visible symptoms you can look for, too:

    • He is likely to be panting heavily for prolonged periods of time, and his breath will feel hot against your cheek.
    • He may be thirsty and drink more water than usual, because he loses fluid as he pants.
    • A fever can make joints feel achy and sore. In the dog this manifests itself as a reluctance to exercise, stiffness on rising and a stilted gait or even lameness.
    • A dog with a fever will be withdrawn, quiet and lethargic. He may become uncharacteristically aggressive when touched, because he feels uncomfortable and irritable.
    • He is less likely to groom and his coat will appear unkempt and “starry,” or dull and dry.
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    Stroke, pet, and engage your dog in play. Try to remember the feel of your dog’s body when he is not sick. Are his eyes dull? His coat less silky? Is he less rambunctious and eager than usual? Changes in these physical and behavioral characteristics may be a sign of illness.
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    If he seems well, assess him again in an hour. If the dog is behaving naturally, is hot but seems otherwise well, let him rest in a cool place for an hour and then re-check his temperature again to see if the signs you did detect have normalized. Since a fever is a normal immune response, it may just be something you have to wait out if it’s not serious.

    • Remember, if the temperature of the dog’s extremities is raised and he is behaving abnormally, this is more likely to be significant than for a warm dog that appears otherwise well. It’s infection you need to be worried about, not fever.

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Part 2 Quiz

What is a non-physical sign of fever in a dog?

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Part3

Understanding Fever in Dogs

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    Know that fever is a normal immune response. In most situations, fever is nothing to worry about. It’s a good indicator that the body is fighting back an infection or is undergoing repairs. In some situations, however, fever can be the sign of a bacterial infection. If your dog is displaying any abnormal symptoms, contact your vet immediately.

    • When bacterial infections with gram negative bacteria are present, they release toxins from their cell walls that act as signals to the brain to cause fever. In these cases severe bacterial infection can lead to even more severe fever with a very high temperature.[4] This extreme temperature, instead of helping the animal can lead to damages to sensitive organs, like the testicles and the brain. When this happens, convulsions and coma, and sometimes sterility, can result. Thus it is very important that a fever be detected earlier, and a prompt veterinary therapy be given to prevent these unwanted effects.
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    Call the vet. When in doubt, contact your vet for a professional opinion. In addition to seeking medical treatment if abnormal symptoms are present, it’s a good idea to take this fever seriously if it lasts for more than 24 hours, too. Your vet can prescribe an anti-pyretic (anti-fever) medication to bring his temperature down almost immediately.
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    Consider other related physical ailments. If your dog’s fever is related to another, often more serious, condition, you’ll notice another set of symptoms entirely. It could be a more serious respiratory or gastro-intestinal infection. Be on the lookout for the following:

    • If he has a respiratory infection he may cough, sneeze, and have a runny nose or streaming eyes. This will likely impede his normally rambunctious behavior and sleep patterns, too.
    • If he has gastro-intestinal infection or inflammation, then he may be anorexic, vomit or have diarrhea. If you suspect he has a gastro-intestinal disturbance, follow him outside when he toilets so that you can see what he passes. Does he have diarrhea? Is there blood in his urine?
    • If you notice anything abnormal related to either condition, consult your vet immediately. There is likely an infection present; fever is just one of many symptoms present that need to be addressed.

    reference: https://www.wikihow.com/Take-a-Dog%27s-Temperature-Without-Using-a-Thermometer

How to Respond After Hitting a Dog or Cat With Your Car

May 1, 2018 Comments Off on How to Respond After Hitting a Dog or Cat With Your Car Helping Dogs

Striking a dog or cat with your car is a traumatic event for the animal and you. There are a number of steps you need to take to handle the animal you’ve hit, stay out of the way of traffic, and protect yourself.

Part1

Securing the Scene

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    Pull off to the side of the road immediately. Slowly drive or coast your car to the shoulder of the road. If you were in a lane near a median when you struck the animal, then you might need to pull onto a soft patch on the median. Make sure you are completely out of any lanes of traffic, but relatively close to the pet you hit.[1]

    • Ideally, you won’t have to cross the road to reach the stricken animal.
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    Place signals around. If you have reflective triangles or flares then place them at 10 feet, 100 feet, and 200 feet intervals towards approaching traffic. If this has occurred at night, then you should also put on your 4-way emergency flashers by activating the button on your dashboard.[2]
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    Call the authorities. If you are injured dial 9-1-1 immediately. Otherwise, you need to call the police within 24 hours to report the details of the accident regardless if you have found the owners.[3]

    • If you don’t have a working cell phone, and no call box is nearby, tend to the animal first. Do not leave the scene unattended.
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    Take out your emergency supplies. If you have a first aid kit, then this is the time to take it out. Take out anything you can use as a blanket, and as a bandage too. You may also need something you can bind the animal’s mouth with if it’s overly aggressive.

    • Some animals will become aggressive when injured.
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    Move the animal. Use a coat or blanket to cover the animal’s head and eyes, which will help keep them calm and provide some protection if they try to bite. Then, swaddle the dog or cat in a blanket or similar large cloth with both arms. If you have a thick piece of wood or similar object that can be used as a stretcher under the blanket and pet, then this is a good way to lessen the chance for injury. Pick them up with as little jostling as possible and move them either to your car’s back seat or a safer part of the roadside for further care.[4]

    • If the animal looks to be severely bleeding and/or have broken bones you will need to apply first aid before moving them.
    • If the animal seems aggressive, rip off a long strip of t-shirt or cloth and wrap it around their muzzle in a figure-eight motion. Secure it behind their ears to prevent them from biting.

Part2

Aiding the Animal

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    Look for injuries on the animal. Look particularly for bleeding, fractures (exposed bones or limbs at odd angles), burns, signs of shock (shallow breathing, nervousness, dazed eyes, erratic pulse if you can take it), and problems with breathing. Phone ahead to an emergency veterinarian or have a helper do it while you tend to the pet.[5]
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    Put securing devices on the pet. Except for the case of a pet that is not breathing you need to keep the animal restrained at the muzzle and body to apply other kinds of first aid. You can use simple, but tough fabrics like a t-shirt or rags to wrap around the dog’s snout or cat’s head for a muzzle. Wrap them around enough times to restrict motion, but not cut off breathing. Tie a simple knot to secure the wrapping. Do the same for the legs if they are not broken.[6]

    • Try to use clean rags to avoid infection.
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    Stop the minor bleeding. For external bleeding, apply clean gauze from a first aid kit by pressing a pad of it on the wound and holding it in place for 3 minutes until a clot forms.[7]

    • If you see bleeding from internal areas such as the mouth, rectum, or urine then all you can do is keep the dog or cat calm until you get it to a veterinarian.
    • For more severe external bleeding you will need to use a tourniquet.
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    Apply a tourniquet. If the dog or cat has extensive external bleeding on a limb, then you need to apply a tourniquet and bandage. Use gauze from the first aid kit or an elastic material you have on hand to tie a knot between the wound and the body. Press a gauze or clean cloth bandage onto the wound. Remove the tourniquet for 20 seconds every 15-20 minutes and reapply it if necessary.[8]

    • A pet losing this much blood will require a veterinarian’s attention immediately.
    • Do not leave the tourniquet on for more than 10 minutes. It will start to cut off blood supply to the rest of the limb, leading to tissue damage or even death.
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    Apply ice or water to burns. If you notice burns from either your car’s or road chemicals on the dog or cat, then you need to apply cold water and/or ice. Flush the wound thoroughly with water and apply an ice compress until you can get the pet to a veterinarian.[9]
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    Stabilize fractures. If the fracture isn’t too severe you can try to create a makeshift splint from cloth and a solid piece of wood. Align the wood on both sides of the broken dog’s or cat’s fractured limb, wrap both tightly with the cloth or blanket. Tie off the cloth.[10]

    • Bad splints can’t make the fracture worse. If you are unsure about the splint you are making then leave it up to the veterinarian. Just make sure you are transporting the pet with as little jostling as possible.
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    Treat for shock. If you’ve observed the stricken dog or cat acting nervous, breathing shallow, or the eyes darting about then it may be in shock. If the animal is unconscious this is also possible. In any case, you need to keep the dog or cat warm and restrained so it does not hurt itself. Keep the animal’s head level with the body. Get it to the veterinarian immediately.[11]
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    Administer rescue breathing. If the dog or cat is not breathing you can perform a procedure similar to that used on humans. Open the dog’s or cat’s mouth. Pull out the tongue gently until it is flat. Make sure there are no foreign objects. Close your pet’s mouth again. Breath directly into its nose until the pet’s chest expands. Repeat this every 4-5 seconds.[12]

    • If there are any foreign objects in the throat, then you should remove them with pliers or tweezers first.
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    Do chest compressions. In the event, the stricken dog or cat has no heartbeat you should lay your dog or cat gently on its right side. Hearts of these pets are in the lower left side of the chest area. For a dog, press in on the heart area one-inch deep (adjust harder or softer for the size of the animal). For a cat, hold your hand around the animal’s chest so your thumb is on the left side and your fingers are on the right side of the chest. Compress the chest by squeezing between your thumb and fingers. Press 80-120 times/minute for large animals, and 100-150 times/minute for small ones.[13]

    • Do not do this simultaneously with rescue breathing.
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    Look for identifying information. See if the pet you struck has owner’s information on the collar, matches any posters or ads in the area, or has a radio frequency identification chip (RFID). Call the owner and inform them of what has occurred, where you are taking the pet, and ask for any special instructions that might be necessary for the care of the pet.[14]
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    Take the pet to an emergency veterinarian. Once you’ve administered first aid to the pet you should keep it warm and secured in your back seat if your car is still drivable. Call, locate, and drive to the nearest emergency veterinary clinic or animal hospital so the dog or cat can get more complete care. If your car is immobilized then you should call 9-1-1 and the police may be able to transport the pet for you.

Part3

Managing Yourself

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    Look for damage on your car. Take photos of the car from all angles if possible. Ask a family member or friend with a camera to come and take photos if you can’t.[15]

    • Take photos of damage and area before you leave the scene or your car is moved for any reason other than clearing traffic.
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    Contact your insurance company. You need to file a claim that includes the photos of the damage to your car, the police report, and any information you collected on the pet (including its owner). You can call your insurance company’s claims representative or file online.[16]

    • The company will evaluate your car’s damage values and recommend one or more repair shops to use. This will require comprehensive coverage on most policies.
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    Take your car in for repairs. Use one of the shops your insurance company covers so you get properly reimbursed.[17]

    • This most likely will mean body work if you hit a dog or a cat.

    reference: https://www.wikihow.com/Respond-After-Hitting-a-Dog-or-Cat-With-Your-Car

How to Stop a Dog from Bleeding

May 1, 2018 Comments Off on How to Stop a Dog from Bleeding Helping Dogs

With quick thinking and care you can stop your dog’s bleeding and keep it safe. Slow or prevent blood loss by putting pressure on bleeding wounds. While you do this, try to keep your dog as calm as possible. Whether big or small, all bleeding wounds should be examined by a vet to prevent blood loss or infection.

1

Stopping Life-Threatening Bleeding

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    Put pressure on the wound if it is spurting blood. If your dog is bleeding intensely, put pressure on the artery or wound that’s bleeding immediately. Use a clean cloth, towel, or other absorbent material like a diaper or sanitary pad. Spurting, fast-flowing blood is a sign of arterial damage that could lead to extreme blood loss or hemorrhaging. [1]

    • Be sure to keep constant pressure on the wound by pressing on it or wrapping a bandage around it.
    • If blood begins to seep through the material you are holding over it, leave the first compress there and add another on top of it. Never remove a compress from a severe wound.
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    Do not remove any foreign objects from your dog’s wound. If a foreign object has caused your dog’s injury and is still lodged in the wound, leave it there. Removing it may cut an artery or cause further damage that will increase the bleeding and endanger your dog. Carefully put pressure on the wound around the object and wait for a veterinarian to remove the object safely.[2]
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    Wrap your dog in a towel or blanket to keep it calm and warm. Trauma can cause shock to your dog’s nervous system. If possible, wrap your dog in a large blanket or towel before transporting it to the vet to help it relax and feel more secure. This will also immobilize your dog somewhat if it is struggling or acting aggressively.[3]

    • Symptoms of shock include shallow breathing, agitation, weakness, and rapid heartbeat.[4]
    • Do not assume that your dog is not in shock if you don’t see signs right away. The early stages of shock can be hard to recognize.
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    Keep pressure on the wound and get your dog to the vet quickly. Bring your dog to the nearest emergency clinic as soon as possible to be treated to minimize its blood loss. A vet should be able to stop the bleeding, remove any foreign objects, stitch up the wound, and check for internal bleeding. The vet may also be able to give your dog a blood transfusion or IV fluids if necessary. [5]

    • Keep the information for the nearest 24-hour veterinary clinic on your fridge or memo board to access easily in the event of an emergency.

2

Controlling Moderate Bleeding

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    Restrain your dog if possible. If your dog is in pain it may struggle or bite while you try to treat its wound. If possible, have another family member or friend restrain your dog while you examine its injury. Be sure to handle your dog firmly but gently to avoid causing it extra pain.[6]

    • To restrain your dog, kneel down by your dog’s side so you’re facing its head. Then, take your arm that’s furthest from your dog and hook it under your dog’s chin. Take your other arm and wrap it around your dog’s chest, behind its front legs. Finally, pull your dog close to your body and hold it there.
    • Restraining your dog may help to calm it down if it feels panicked by its injury.
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    Muzzle your dog to avoid being bitten. Even the most docile dog may bite its owner after suffering a disorienting injury. Before treating your dog’s wound, muzzle it gently to prevent biting. Be sure that the muzzle does not touch the wound.[7]

    • If your dog’s wound is located too close to its mouth to muzzle it, proceed with caution.
    • If you do not have a muzzle, you can wrap gauze around your dog’s mouth temporarily to keep it from biting you.
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    Apply gauze to the bleeding area and put pressure on it for 20 minutes. If your dog has a small wound, cover it with a clean piece of medical gauze. Apply constant pressure to the wound for up to 20 minutes to slow or stop the bleeding. If your dog has a large laceration, place a clean towel over the wound.[8]

    • If the bleeding continues after 20 minutes, bring your dog to a vet right away.
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    Wrap a sports bandage around your dog to hold the bandage in place. Gently wrap a sports bandage or a long strand of soft material around your dog’s head, limb, or torso to keep the gauze over the wound. Avoid wrapping it too tight, which may restrict your dog’s breathing or circulation. Tie the bandage or material firmly with a knot.[9]

    • Avoid using tape to keep the bandage in place as it will adhere to your dog’s fur and cause irritation and hair loss.
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    Raise your dog’s limb above heart-level if it is bleeding. If one of your dog’s front or back paws is injured, you can slow down the bleeding by raising it above heart level. This will be the easiest to do if your dog is lying on its side, with the injured limb facing upwards. Keep gentle pressure on the wound.[10]

    • Similarly, if your dog has an ear injury and long ears, gently pull the ear up above its head to help stop the bleeding. [11]
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    Bring your dog to a vet as soon as possible after bandaging its wound. Your dog may get an infection if its wound is left untreated for more than a day or two. Bring your dog to a veterinarian as soon as you can to evaluate and treat the injury. Your vet can also provide advice for how to care for the wound while it heals.[12]

    • Your vet may also have to check for internal bleeding, depending on the injury your dog suffered.

3

Stopping Bleeding After Nail Trimming

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    Keep your dog still so that you can control the bleeding. If you accidentally cut one of your dog’s nails too short while trimming it, make sure your pet doesn’t run off and spread blood around your home. While the injury is not serious, it can bleed quite a bit. If possible, have a friend or family member hold your dog while you treat the nail.[13]

    • If you do not have another person to brace your dog, try to restrain it as gently as possibly using a leash if necessary.
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    Use a styptic stick on the tip of the nail to stop the bleeding. Veterinarians use styptic sticks to stop bleeding nails quickly. If you have one on hand, gently press the tip to the injured nail for several minutes until the bleeding stops. Purchase styptics sticks at pets stores or online.[14]

    • Purchase styptic sticks to keep on hand in case of this kind of trimming accident.
    • A styptic stick may cause temporary pain, but it will quickly stop the bleeding.
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    Use corn starch or flour if you don’t have styptic sticks. In a pinch, place a small amount of corn starch or flour on your fingertip and press it into the tip of your pet’s bleeding nail. The powder will help clot the blood after a moment or two.[15]

    • Keep light pressure on the nail until the bleeding appears to stop.
    • Do not bandage your dog’s paw, which might make walking difficult.

    reference: https://www.wikihow.com/Stop-a-Dog-from-Bleeding

How to Splint a Dog’s Leg

May 1, 2018 Comments Off on How to Splint a Dog’s Leg Helping Dogs

Say your dog breaks a bone in their leg like their shin or elbow bone, and then tries to stand and walk on the damaged bone. Placing weight on the broken limb will not only increase the amount of pain your dog will experience, it will also cause the bones to move apart and make the fracture worse. Bone rubbing against bone is extremely painful, so it’s imperative that you assess your dog’s injury and if necessary, create a splint for your dog’s injured leg before taking him to the vet.

Part1

Confirming Your Dog Needs a Split

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    Call your vet to attend to your injured dog. If you can avoid moving your dog or if he is injured in a low traffic area, call your vet to help you assess your dog’s injury.

    • If your dog appears to be okay to walk or move without a splint, it may not be necessary to make one. But, if his injury is pretty bad, the splint will support the bone and minimize any further damage en route to a vet clinic.
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    Move your dog to safe place. It’s important to get your dog to lay still to assess the injury, so you will need to move him to a safe place to examine his leg. If he has been hit by a vehicle and is lying in the middle of the highway and is small and light enough, pick him up and carry him to a safe area.

    • If your dog is too large for you to carry on your own, get a passerby to help you lift him to safety.
    • As a last resort, you can encourage your dog to stand and limp to a safe area.
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    Notice if your dog’s leg moves or wobbles in the wrong direction. Signs of obvious instability in your dog’s leg includes the leg moving in a direction it is not meant to.

    • For example, if your dog has a shin bone fracture, the shin bone may bend or bow when it should be straight, or the bone may angle in the wrong direction, such as pointing outwards when it should rest parallel to your dog’s body.
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    Look to see if the bone has penetrated the skin. If your dog’s injured bone is sticking out through his skin, a splint will help to stop the bone from moving any further.
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    Tie your dog down so he does not move or stand. If you determine that your dog’s injury needs a splint, you need to prevent your dog from standing or walking on his damaged leg by tying him to a piece of furniture or a post.

    • You can also get your neighbor to help you watch him to make sure he does not put weight on his damaged leg.

Part2

Gathering the Materials and Applying the First Protective Layer

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    Gather together the necessary materials in one place. You don’t want to get the first few layers of the splint on only to find you are missing a length of bandage so get all your materials together in one place before you make the splint. Pausing to search for more materials will also allow your dog to shake or move his leg while he is unsupervised, and potential undo all your hard work on the splint.

    • Get four to five rolls of cotton padding bandage (such as Soffban) and four to five rolls of cotton bandage.
    • A roll of zinc oxide tape.
    • A roll of crepe bandage (preferably a self-adhesive bandage such as Co-flex).
    • A roll of adhesive bandage (such as Elastoplast).
    • A splint. You want a splint that is a similar width and as long as the injured limb bone. A ruler or a wooden spatula can be acceptable splints in a pinch.
    • Scissors to cut the bandage material.
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    Get someone to help you hold your dog still. If your dog is conscious, it is helpful to a friend or neighbor assist you in holding your dog still. This will also prevent him from shaking off the dressing halfway through and if he gets snappy because of the pain, your assistant can help to calm him down while you work on the splint.
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    Lie your dog down on a padded surface with his injured leg in the air. Use a rug or a towel to create a soft, padded surface as your dog will be less likely to wiggle around if he is comfortable.
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    Position yourself on one side of your dog with his paws closest to you. Your assistant should stand with your dog’s back against their tummy, so that your dog’s legs are pointing away from them and towards you.
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    Have your assistant gently restrain your dog. If your dog is wiggling around, your assistant can gently rest their forearm over your dog’s neck to push your dog’s head to the floor. Your assistant can then use their free hand to grasp your dog’s leg, which should be resting on the ground.

    • Pinning down your dog’s head and holding his leg will stop him from getting up.
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    Cover any open wounds on your dog’s leg with a sterile gauze swab. To do this, cut two strips of zinc oxide tape so they are four-inches wider than the swab. Open the sterile swab packaging and place the swab on top of the open wound. Wrap the zinc oxide tape over the swab and wind it around your dog’s leg to anchor the swab in place.

    • Avoid stretching the tape because this could restrict the blood circulation to your dog’s leg.
    • If you do not have access to sterile swabs, use a piece of clean linen or cotton to cover the wound; a clean handkerchief would work just fine. Choose a material that is not fluffy and will not leave fibers in the wound. Do not use wool or fleece.
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    Apply a single layer of padding around your dog’s leg. Applying the splint directly to the skin can cause rubbing and discomfort so begin with a single layer of padding around your dog’s leg. You want to prevent the splint from resting against your dog’s skin, rather than pad the injury, so do not put lots of layers of padding at this stage. Too much padding can cause the splint to slip out of place.

    • Remove the wrapper from the sterile Soffban. If you are right-handed, hold the roll in your right hand with the tongue rolling down and under the roll, and facing away from you.
    • Start at the toes, and rest the tongue of the roll over the top of your dog’s paw. Hold it in place with the left hand and then wind the Soffban around the limb in a circular motion, with each wrap overlapping the previous by half the width of the Soffban.
    • Apply a little bit of tension to the Soffban as you wind, so that it stretches slightly but does not tear. Soffban will not cut off circulation on the limb because the fibers part and the bandage shears before that amount of tension can be applied.
    • Continue winding the Soffban until you have encased the limb. Tear off the Soffban and tuck the free end under the previous wrap to secure it.
    • If you do not have access to medical supplies like Soffban, you can use regular cotton wool to form a soft layer around the leg, or cut a T-shirt into strips and wrap them around your dog’s leg.

Part3

Applying the Splint

  1. 1

    Cut off four to six pieces of zinc oxide tape. Each strip should be twice the diameter of the bone being splinted.
  2. 2

    Place the splint against the padding to support the injury. Make sure you line up the splint to properly fit the injured area.
  3. 3

    Secure the splint in place with the zinc oxide tape by placing the strips one at each end of the splint and then throughout the splint. Wind the tape around the splint and Soffban, so the splint is secured firmly against the limb.

    • If you don’t have access to zinc oxide tape, improvise with what you have on hand. Zinc oxide tape is a fabric tape with adhesive, so you could use alternatives like sticky tape, duct tape, or even shoelaces tied around the splint and leg to secure it in place. The goal is to anchor the splint against the leg so it is comfortable for your dog.
  4. 4

    Apply another layer of Soffban. Do this the same way you applied the initial layer of Soffban. Then, open the sterile packaging on the cotton bandage and wind a layer over the top of the Soffban, using the same technique.

    • Repeat this for approximately three layers.
    • Applying further layers of padding and bandage helps to hold the splint in place and further immobilizes any fractures.

Part4

Finishing the Splint

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    1

    Apply a protective layer such as Co-flex to keep the bandage clean and rigid.Open the sterile wrapper and apply a layer of Co-flex using the same technique as you did for the Soffban.

    • Co-flex is stretchy so if it is applied in its stretched state, it will contract on the damaged limb and impair the limb’s blood circulation. Always release the tension on the roll as you bandage so the Co-flex is unstretched as you wrap it around your dog’s leg.
    • If you do not have access to Co-flex, don’t worry about this step. The bandage will be fine without an outer layer in the short term (about a day), while you take your dog to the vet. The outer layer will help to keep the inner layers clean, which becomes more of a priority if the dressing has to stay in place for several days.
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    Use Elastoplast to prevent the splint from sliding off. No matter how well you apply the splint, most limb dressings have a habit of sliding off. So to ensure this doesn’t happen, cut a length of adhesive dressing, such as Elastoplast, to secure the top of the dressing to the limb.

    • Cut a length of Elastoplast that is long enough to pass twice around the top of the dressing. Overlap the width so that half overlaps the dressing and the other half overlaps the fur on your dog’s leg. Then, wind the Elastoplast around like a garter.
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    3

    Take your dog to the vet. Now that your pup’s damaged limb is supported in a splint, make your way to the vet.

reference: https://www.wikihow.com/Splint-a-Dog%27s-Leg

How to Recognize Bloat in Dogs

May 1, 2018 Comments Off on How to Recognize Bloat in Dogs Helping Dogs

Bloat is a serious, life-threatening condition. If your dog develops bloat, the sooner you seek urgent veterinary attention, the better his chances of recovery. If you are the least bit suspicious that your dog is developing symptoms of bloat, stay calm, phone your vet immediately, and bring your dog in as soon as possible.

1

Recognizing Symptoms of Bloat

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    Call your vet if your dog’s stomach looks swollen. Dog’s with bloat deteriorate alarmingly quickly. A dog that develops bloat at bedtime, if left untreated, will most likely pass away by the morning. Sometimes the deterioration is even more rapid, and the dog may pass away in less than 2 hours after first developing symptoms. Because of this, it is absolutely imperative that you call your vet immediately, as soon as you notice the following symptoms.[1]

    • The key symptoms are a distended abdomen and non-productive retching (vomiting without producing any vomit). These signs alone should trigger an emergency phone call to the vet. However, other signs can also occur, as discussed in the following steps.
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    Look for a swollen abdomen. The abdomen (or belly) is the area behind the rib cage that extends back towards the pelvis. The stomach sits within the dome of the diaphragm, but if filled with air, it extends backwards into the belly. A gas filled stomach gives the physical appearance of a swollen belly.[2]

    • In some large breeds (St Bernards, Great Danes) the swollen stomach can be difficult to spot because of room for expansion within the dome of the ribs, therefore, an absence of swelling does NOT rule out gastric dilation. However, a swollen tummy is a significant sign.
    • If in doubt as to whether the tummy is a normal size or not, take a photo of the dog from a sideways angle. Take another photo at 10 minute intervals for comparison. If subsequent photos show the body walls bowing outwards more than previously, this is significant and you should immediately contact the vet
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    3

    Check for a tympanic abdomen. The swollen stomach is often full of gas or foam. When you place a hand on either side of the swelling and press gently, the area feels hard and not compressible.[3]

    • If you gently flick at the swollen area with a finger (like flicking a drum skin) you may get the impression of a drum like noise due to the trapped air inside the stretched stomach.
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    Monitor any drooling saliva. When the stomach flips over it is effectively sealed off. Gastric contents cannot escape; this also means that saliva, food, and water cannot get into the stomach. Thus your dog may drool saliva because he cannot swallow it down.
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    Keep track of non-productive retching or vomiting. The distension triggers receptors in the stomach wall that tells your dog to vomit in order to empty his stomach. However, the twisted stomach is sealed off and although the dog retches or attempts to vomit, he brings nothing up other than drooled saliva.

    • This is a serious sign and if present, contact the vet immediately.
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    Look to see if your dog has a hunched back. As the stomach swells it presses forward on the diaphragm and displaces other abdominal organs backwards. This causes abdominal discomfort which may cause the dog to stand in a hunched position with his back arched.

    • This is a general sign of abdominal discomfort, rather than specific to GDV, but if seen in conjunction with other symptoms, it should raise concern.
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    7

    Watch to see if your dog appears restless. A dog with a dilated stomach feels uncomfortable and nauseous. This makes it difficult for him to get comfortable and he will pace and be restless.

    • Some dogs repeatedly turn and look at their flanks, whilst others may even try to kick their belly with a back leg.
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    8

    Look for signs of pain. GDV causes distension of the stomach and is a painful condition. Dogs differ in how they show pain but typical signs include:

    • Vocalisation (whining, groaning, or crying)
    • Dilated pupils
    • A worried expression
    • Changes in behavior such as increased aggression
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    Call your vet if you see signs of shock. As the toxins build up, your dog may start to go into shock. This manifests itself as a weak pulse (the femoral pulse is located on the inner thigh, running parallel with the thigh bone.) A weak pulse can be difficult to detect because of low blood pressure within the vein and is easily lost when pressure is applied with a finger.

    • The heart rate starts to race and is above normal (greater than 100 beats per minute for a large breed dog, above 140 beats per minute for a regular or small dog).
    • The dog’s gums will also be pale (normal color is pink, much like our own gums). If you press a fingertip on the gum and then release, it takes longer than 2 seconds for the color to return (a sign of circulatory collapse)
    • The dog may also have distressed or laboured breathing. He breathes more quickly (normal is below 35 to 40 breaths per minute) and takes shallower breaths than usual.
  10. 10

    Recognize collapse. Untreated, your dog may deteriorate, find it difficult to walk, and slump to the ground. As his abdomen becomes increasingly swollen, blood return to the heart is impaired by pressure from the stomach (which compresses the aorta and vena cava, much like putting your foot on a hosepipe) and the dog goes into circulatory collapse.

2

Seeking Medical Help

  1. 1

    Bring your dog to the vet as soon as you see these symptoms. Remember, bloat is a life-threatening condition and not amenable to first aid at home. It is essential to seek immediate veterinary assistance.[4]

    • Even if you have financial constraints and cannot afford surgery, the humane option is to contact a veterinarian to euthanize your dog to prevent unnecessary suffering. While this can be a hard decision to make, it will ultimately save your dog from a lot of pain.
  2. 2

    Be aware of what the vet will do. Veterinary treatment includes aggressive intravenous fluid therapy to support the circulation and dilute systemic toxins. Once your dog is stable, the vet will give him general anesthesia and laparotomy; the stomach is repositioned and an incision made to release the gas.

    • The stomach is then rinsed out, any portions of dead stomach wall resected, and the stomach sutured to the body wall to prevent future episodes of torsion.
  3. 3

    Comfort your dog if you cannot get to a vet. If you are not within traveling distance of a veterinarian then try to comfort your dog. Speak to him calmly to reassure him. In the early stages of bloat try gently walking him, to help relieve stomach cramps. Stay by him and keep him calm. Try to find a vet who will come to where you are if you cannot transport your dog to a vet.[5]

    • Medication or pain relief is of no benefit because it cannot pass the twist in his gullet to enter the stomach and be absorbed.

3

Understanding Bloat

  1. 1

    Familiarize yourself with the concept of bloat. Bloat refers to the stomach filling with gas and becoming distended. The dilated stomach then flips over on itself, sealing off the esophageal sphincter (the entrance to the stomach) and the pylorus (exit). Gas producing bacteria trapped in the stomach continue to ferment and produce more gas, distending the stomach still further.

    • This outward pressure prevents blood flow to the stomach wall, and without an adequate blood supply this tissue dies off. Toxins are then absorbed into the bloodstream and a combination of toxicity, shock, and circulatory failure will kill a dog who has not been taken into the vet.
    • Most dogs become seriously ill within 4 to 6 hours, but death can happen in as little as 2 hours after occurrence, which again makes it very necessary to bring your dog to the vet.
    • Bloat is more correctly known as gastric dilation and volvulus (GDV) which is a term that describes the stomach distension followed by twisting.
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    2

    Consider the risk factors that can make your dog more likely to get bloat.Because of their anatomy, some dog breeds are at higher risk of acquiring bloat than others. Typically, deep-chested breeds are at greater risk, such as the German Shepherd dog, Dobermans, Great Danes, Irish and Gordon Setters, weimaraners, and Greyhounds.[6]

    • This is because these breeds have a narrow abdomen and deep chest, such that the stomach is suspended inside the abdomen like a hammock slung between trees. This gives the stomach more range of movement within the tummy, and predisposes it to flipping over on itself, especially if the dog is exercised with food in his stomach.
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    3

    Know when bloat occurs. It is normal for small volumes of gas to develop during digestion (hence the reason we burp!) Certain foods, such as those with a high cereal or pulse content, produce more gas than others (just think of baked beans!)

    • Thus, as a result of gas produced during digestion bloat is more likely to happen within 90 minutes of feeding. If that dog then rolls over, or goes for a run, the weight of food is more likely to make the stomach swing from side to side and if it gains enough momentum, possibly flip over.
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    4

    Look out for the key danger period. The key danger period is within two hours of feeding. Any deep-chested breed predisposed to bloat should be never be exercised within 90 to 120 minutes of eating.[7]

reference:  https://www.wikihow.com/Recognize-Bloat-in-Dogs

How to Save a Fading Newborn Puppy

April 30, 2018 Comments Off on How to Save a Fading Newborn Puppy Helping Dogs

For the best chances of saving a fading pup, contact a veterinarian at the first sign of trouble, like excessive crying or difficulty nursing. Ensuring that the pups nurse, maintaining their body temperature, and offering emergency care are your most effective options. While taking these steps can help promote a healthy litter, do your best to understand that not every pup makes it through the birthing process. Try to recognize that you did your best in the unfortunate event that a fading pup is lost.

1

Consulting with a Veterinarian

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    Monitor the litter closely. Look for abnormalities like pups without suckling instincts, excessive crying, and physical deformities such as flattened chests or any absent body parts. Seek emergency care as soon as possible if you suspect something’s not right. Be ready to report your observations to the vet.[1]

    • Take an initial weight of each pup after birth. Continue to weigh them a couple times per day afterward. Within 24 hours, a pup’s weight might decrease by less than 10%, but should increase steadily after the first day.
    • Take the pups’ and mother’s temperatures at least a couple times per day. Normal rectal temperatures for puppies are from 95 to 99 degrees Fahrenheit (35 to 37.2 degrees Celsius) during the first week of life, and 97 to 100 degrees Fahrenheit (36.1 to 37.8 degrees Celsius) during the second and third weeks of life. Adult dogs and puppies older than four weeks have temperatures that run about 100 to 102 degrees Fahrenheit (37.8 to 38.9 degrees Celsius).[2]
    • Be ready to describe the mother’s diet to the vet. Pregnant and nursing dogs require special diets, which should include a high quality food that consists of 29% protein, 17% fat, and less than 5% fiber.[3]
    • Closely monitor nursing and make sure nursing begins within a maximum of 12 hours of birth. This is because the mother dog will produce colostrum—a nutrient rich breast milk—during this time, which can promote good health in her puppies. Note if the mother disregards or is disinterested in nursing or attending to the pups.
    • Be ready to describe any interactions your pregnant dog had with other animals in the weeks prior to delivery. This will help the vet diagnose any communicable diseases that might be affecting the pups, such as bacterial or viral infections. The mother may also pass intestinal parasites onto her dogs.[4]
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    2

    Call the vet if any pups separate from the litter or cry excessively. Newborn pups should do little more than nurse and sleep, and should cry only very little, if at all. They should huddle with the other pups without crawling away from the group. If pups deviate from any of these normal behaviors, call the vet immediately.[5]
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    Prepare the whelp box for transport. The vet will most likely have you bring the mother and full litter in for examination. Use the whelp box to transport the mother and pups.

    • It’s a good idea to create a whelp box instead of just designating a whelp area for your dog to deliver its litter. That way, you’ll be able to transport the mother and litter more easily in the event that emergency care is needed.
    • You can use a shallow cardboard box that has a shelf or separate area in it where the puppies can go while the mother is sleeping (to prevent her from rolling over onto them in her sleep).
    • Line the box with several sheets of newspaper or puppy pads before she delivers the puppies, and then switch to a thinner lining, such as an old bedsheet after she delivers.[6]
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    4

    Have the mother tested for malnutrition and infection. The vet will screen the mother’s blood for low iron and protein content and ask you about her diet. They’ll also check for birth defects and test for viral and bacterial infections, such as E. coli and parvovirus.[7]

    • These steps will help the vet determine whether antibiotics should be administered.

2

Separating the Pup from the Litter

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    1

    Separate the fading pup from the litter. If any pups do show signs of fading or cry excessively, you should separate them from the litter and call the vet for help. Depending on the symptoms you report, the vet will instruct you to bring the fading pup in for emergency care or advise you attempt alternative feeding methods.[8]
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    2

    Place the fading pup in a separate box. After removing any fading pups from the litter, place them in a separate whelp box. Line the box’s floor with a bath mat or newspaper.

    • Go with newspaper if the pup is emitting discharges or if soiling is a concern. You’ll be able to quickly swap out dirty paper for a clean replacement.
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    Keep the fading pup warm. Use a heating pad to warm the separate container. Be sure to check the pad and box frequently with the back of your hand to make sure they aren’t hot to the touch. Keep a newborn pup’s temperature within 95 and 99 degrees Fahrenheit (34.4 to 37.2 degrees Celsius).

    • Place the heating pad under the box’s floor lining, or if you’re using a wood box, you can place the heat under the box to let the wood conduct heat. However, make sure that the heating pad does not cover the entire area. The puppies should be able to crawl off of the heating pad if they get too warm.

3

Providing Emergency Care

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    1

    Check the pups for dehydration. Gently pull back the skin between pups’ shoulders. It should snap back into place quickly. If it doesn’t spring back into place promptly, the puppy is likely dehydrated.[9]

    • Under the vet’s advisement, you can try using a clean eyedropper to rub a bit of corn syrup on the puppies gums and then use an eyedropper to give him some water. You can also use puppy milk replacer.
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    2

    Warm the pups gradually if they’re too chilled to nurse. Chilled pups are unable to suckle and digest food, but warming them too quickly can be dangerous. The best way to carefully and gradually warm a chilled pup is to hold it against a large patch of your skin. That way, your body will transfer to the pup without overheating it.[10]

    • If pups are too cold, they won’t be able to suckle or digest food, which will cause fading. Pups under a week that are too warm aren’t yet able to pant to reduce their body temperature.
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    Give the pup a sugar or honey solution. If any pups are dehydrated or if you haven’t observed them nursing, call the vet and ask if you should administer honey, corn syrup, or a sugar-water solution. If the vet approves, put on surgical gloves and administer a drop of the syrup onto the pup’s gums every few hours. Avoid alternative feeding without the vet’s approval.[11]
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    Feed the pup colostrum. During the first one to two days of delivery, the mother produces a special milk called colostrum. By feeding on this fluid within 12 hours of birth, the pups ingest needed antibodies from the mother’s bloodstream. Without prompt nursing, the pups will be susceptible to infection in addition to dehydration and malnutrition.[12]

    • If you don’t have supplemental colostrum on hand, you can attempt to express it from the mother’s teat into an eyedropper and manually feed a pup that hasn’t suckled. Your vet can also attempt this process, might have a supply of colostrum on hand, or can supply any fading pups with blood plasma from a healthy dog.
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    Inject subcutaneous fluids. Under the vet’s advisement, use a sterile drawing syringe to inject a Ringer’s lactate solution subcutaneously, or beneath the skin. Be sure the solution is warm, and never inject cold solution. Avoid touching the tip of the syringe or otherwise contaminating it.[13]

    • Have your vet recommend an amount suitable for the pup.

    reference: https://www.wikihow.com/Save-a-Fading-Newborn-Puppy

How to Revive a Puppy

April 30, 2018 Comments Off on How to Revive a Puppy Helping Dogs

Some newborn puppies are unable to start breathing on their own immediately after birth. In many cases, however, you can perform emergency cardiopulmonary resuscitation (CPR) to successfully revive a lifeless puppy.

Part1

Initial Analysis

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    Check the puppy. When a puppy does not immediately begin to cry after birth, there is a high risk that it may not be breathing. Puppies that are struggling to breathe and those that do not start breathing within a few seconds will need emergency CPR.

    • Breech birth puppies—those that are born feet-first, rather than head-first—are more likely to face danger than those birthed normally. As soon as you see that a puppy is experiencing a breech birth, you should be prepared to check its breathing and perform CPR as needed.
    • Even a puppy born normally may not immediately begin breathing, though. Any puppy that does not begin breathing within a few seconds of birth should be given emergency CPR.
    • A puppy that opens its mouth in a gasping motion without making a sound puppy has likely inhaled amniotic fluid and could be suffocating. On the other hand, a puppy that is completely lifeless has probably stopped breathing and may or may not have a heartbeat. It will be harder to save a newborn puppy that enters into complete cardiac arrest, but you should continue to work with this puppy since saving it may still be possible.
    • That being said, at this point, you only need to determine whether or not the puppy has stopped breathing. Don’t worry about how lifeless the puppy appears overall, and focus on clearing the airways before checking for a heartbeat.
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    Instruct another person to call the veterinarian. Another person should call your veterinarian or an emergency animal clinic while you begin CPR procedures.

    • A veterinarian should be able to guide you through the process more thoroughly. He or she should also be able to consult you on how long to continue working on the puppy based on your specific circumstances.
    • If you are the only person around, perform emergency CPR before contacting the veterinarian. Once the puppy starts breathing, call the veterinarian for advice on continued care.
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    Engage in emergency care. In many cases, you will need to provide both pulmonary and cardiac treatment to the lifeless puppy.

    • Initial respiratory treatment should be provided first, followed by cardiac stimulation. You will then need to rotate back and forth between respiratory and cardiac care until the puppy is stable.
    • If the puppy’s heart is not beating at all, you will need to try restarting it. If the puppy’s heartbeat is present but slow or weak, you will only need to stimulate the puppy in an effort to keep its heart working.

Part2

Emergency Pulmonary (Respiratory) Care

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    1

    Drain the airway using gravity. Gently hold the puppy’s head downward for 5 to 10 seconds so that gravity can help drain any amniotic fluid and/or mucus from the mouth, throat, and lungs.

    • Centrifugal force can also be used to drain the fluid of the puppy’s lungs, but you should ask a veterinarian to demonstrate the process before attempting to do it. You’ll need to hold the puppy’s head and neck very secure while smoothly swinging the puppy down and in between your legs. The movement should not be jerky and you must ease the puppy into a gradual stop.[1]
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    Remove fluid using a suction bulb syringe. While keeping the puppy’s head tilted downward, use a medical suction bulb syringe to remove fluid from the puppy’s mouth.

    • Squeeze the bulb to remove the air from inside. Do this before inserting the bulb into the puppy’s mouth since doing so afterward would drive fluid further down into the lungs.[2]
    • Insert the tip of the suction bulb into the puppy’s mouth. The tip should reach the entrance of the puppy’s throat, but try not to force it too far into the throat since doing so could cause injury to the puppy’s airways.
    • Once the syringe is positioned, gradually release the squeezed bulb. The suction should draw fluid from the mouth and throat into the bulb.
    • Remove the bulb from the puppy’s mouth and squeeze it again to evacuate fluid and air. Repeat two or three more times, or until you stop drawing fluid out.
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    Breathe into the puppy’s nose and mouth. Gently breathe into the puppy’s nose and mouth two or three times to fill the lungs with air.

    • Position your mouth so that it is sealed around both the mouth and nose of the newborn puppy. Alternatively, you can hold the puppy’s mouth closed with your hand while positioning your own mouth over the puppy’s nose.
    • Breathe small, gently puffs of air into the puppy. Do not breathe too deeply since doing so can damage the puppy’s lungs.

Part3

Emergency Cardiac Care

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    Check for a heartbeat. After administering initial respiratory treatment, check the puppy’s chest for a heartbeat.

    • Place your fingers against the chest wall. A strong heartbeat should be easy to identify with no additional tools.
    • You may need to use a stethoscope to identify the difference between a weak heartbeat and no heartbeat, however. If you have a stethoscope, place it over the chest wall and listen for a few seconds.
    • Note that a normal, healthy newborn puppy should have a heartbeat between 120 and 180 beats per minute.
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    Compress the puppy’s chest. If the heart is not beating at all, you will need to perform a few gently chest compressions.[3]

    • Place your thumb and index finger around the puppy’s chest, directly at the back of the puppy’s bent elbow. This is roughly where the heart should be.
    • Squeeze or compress the chest quickly to stimulate the heart. Do so once or twice.

Part4

Continued Treatment

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    Repeat both respiratory and cardiac treatment as needed. You will need to switch between mouth-to-mouth resuscitation and chest compression until the puppy shows signs of life.

    • Give the puppy two to four puffs of air every 15 to 20 seconds.
    • Continue to gently compress the puppy’s chest in between puffs of air.
    • Check the puppy every minute to determine if it has begun to breathe on its own. You should also check for a heartbeat every minute.
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    Stimulate the puppy once its heart begins to beat. As soon as the puppy’s heart begins to beat, stop performing chest compressions and focus on stimulating the puppy.[4]

    • Using light, careful pressure, vigorously rub the puppy with a towel.
    • Gently turn the puppy over in your hands several times.
    • Grab the puppy by the scruff of its neck several times, as well.
    • While stimulating the puppy, you may still need to provide a few puffs of air every 20 to 30 seconds to keep its lungs pumping.
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    Know how long to continue. Once the puppy’s heart starts beating, you should continue stimulating the puppy for at least 20 minutes.

    • Most puppies that revive after receiving emergency CPR will stabilize after 20 minutes.
    • If the puppy’s heart does not start beating within 5 minutes of treatment, however, it is unlikely that the puppy will revive.
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    Monitor the puppy closely. All newborn puppies should be closely monitored for several days, but it is especially important to keep a close eye on puppies who needed to be revived upon birth.

    • One of the most important things you can do is to keep the puppy warm. Puppies that get chilled during the first week of life can easily weaken and pass away. Provide hot water bottles, heating pads, heating lamps, and plenty of warm blankets in an effort to keep the box at a minimum constant temperature of 85 degrees Fahrenheit (30 degrees Celsius).
    • Professional veterinary care is also strongly recommended. If you have not already called the veterinarian, do so after the mother has given birth to the remainder of her puppies. Let the veterinarian know about any puppies you needed to revive and follow his or her instructions on additional aftercare.

    reference: https://www.wikihow.com/Revive-a-Puppy

How to Recognize a Dying Dog

April 30, 2018 Comments Off on How to Recognize a Dying Dog Helping Dogs
Even after death, your love for your special pets lives on. However, death—even for dogs—is a reality everyone must face. In the finals days of your loyal friend and companion, knowing the signs that would tell you if your dog is dying can give you and your family enough time to prepare emotionally. Being aware of your dog’s condition can also help you prepare for your dog’s graceful, peaceful, and comfortable departure. Following the steps in this article will help to ensure your pup feels as little pain as possible.
1

Recognizing Fatal Signs

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    Observe respiratory symptoms. Towards death, from a few days to a few hours, you will notice that the dog’s breathing will become shallow, with very long intervals in between breaths. The normal resting breathing rate of 22 breaths/minute may drop to only 10 breaths/minute.

    • Immediately before dying, the dog will exhale deeply. You may be able to feel your dog deflate as her lungs collapse.
    • The dog’s heart rate will drop from the normal 100 to 130 beats per minute to as low as 60 to 80 beats per minute, with a very weak pulse.
    • In the final hours, you will observe that your dog breathes shallowly, and will not move anymore. Most of the time, your dog will only lie in a dark or hidden corner of your house.
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    Recognize the digestive signs. If your dog is dying, he/she will show a very clear loss of appetite. There will be virtually zero interest in eating and drinking water. As death nears, the organs like the liver and kidneys are slowly shutting down, making your dog lose digestive functions.

    • A dry and sticky mouth, due to dehydration, can be observed.
    • You may also notice vomiting. The vomit usually will contain no food, only frothy or sometimes yellowish to greenish colored acid, due to bile. This also comes as a result of loss of appetite.
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    Notice how his muscles work. Twitching or involuntary spasms of muscles can be observed as your dog weakens due to loss of glucose. There will also be a loss of response to pain, and loss of other reflex actions will be observed.

    • When your dog tries to stand or walk, you will notice a lack of coordination and staggered walking. Possibly, your dog will not be able to walk at all. Your dog may lose consciousness or go into a coma immediately before death.
    • Dogs that are nearing death and have suffered a chronic or prolonged illness may have a very skinny, emaciated look. Your dog may lose muscle mass, and the muscles may become very small and atrophied.
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    Pay attention to their bathroom habits. Another sign is an uncontrollable bladder and anal sphincter control. Towards death your dog will urinate and defecate without control. Even the most disciplined or well-trained dog is likely to experience these symptoms.

    • Urination will be uncontrollable and with little volume.
    • Nearing death, the dog will pass liquid diarrhea that is sometimes foul smelling, and sometimes blood tinged.
    • After dying, your dog will urinate and defecate for the last time because of total loss of muscle control.
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    Assess the condition of your dog’s skin. Skin will be dry and will not return quickly to its original shape when pinched. This is due to dehydration. Mucous membranes like gums and lips will be pale. When pressed, they will not return to their original pinkish color even after a long time (1 second is the normal return time for gums to return to the original color).

2

Recognizing Old Age

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    Notice how speedy your pooch is. When your dog is slowing down in movements but is still able to eat, drink, walk, stand on its own, and can still respond to your calls, this is a sign of just plain old age. He’s not suffering any particular pain, he’s just growing old.

    • Your dog can still do the things he/she enjoys, like walking around, being petted, playing, or socializing with other dogs, though in a more decreased frequency and intensity.
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    Observe how much your dog eats. As dogs get older, they will likely begin to eat less than they used to. Older dogs generally expend fewer calories and require less food than energetic young dogs. It’s nothing to be alarmed about—it’s just a normal part of the aging process.
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    Pay attention to how much your dog sleeps. An old dog will sleep more and more, but still being able to stand and move around and eat afterward. A dog who sleeps and doesn’t move around and eat is very sick; a dog who sleeps a lot and still eats and seems social is aging.
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    Watch how they act around other dogs. As dogs get older, they may show less interest in playing and socializing with other dogs. You might find that your dog gets overwhelmed or irritable in social situations more easily than before.
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    Notice how your dog looks. A number of things will sprout up as your dog ages. Look for the following:

    • Gray or white hairs appearing in the coat, especially on your dog’s face.
    • Parts of the body where friction is common getting bald or hairless. You may particularly notice this in the elbows, pelvic area, and butt.
    • Dental problems, such as loosening or staining of the teeth. Some of your dog’s teeth may fall out, or you may need to have them extracted by a vet.
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    Keep your elderly dog comfortable. If your dog is already in this stage of old age, provide comfort by:

    • Placing you dog in a well ventilated and warm room.
    • Providing comfortable bedding to support your dog’s joints and minimize pain.
    • Providing (but not forcing) food and water.
    • Spending time with your dog daily. Even if your dog is not up to playing or going for walks, he or she will probably still enjoy gentle petting and listening to your voice.

3

Putting Your Dog to Sleep

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    Learn about the purpose of euthanasia. Euthanasia, or putting the dog to sleep, is a gentle and humane method of ending the life of an animal that is suffering. Vets perform euthanasia by injecting the animal with a high dose of an anesthetic that will gradually slow and stop the heartbeat. Its 3 main objectives are:

    • The relief of pain and suffering of the animal.
    • To minimize the pain, distress, fear, and anxiety the animal experiences before consciousness is lost.
    • To bring about a painless and struggle-free death.
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    Take time to think about putting your dog down. When caught in a situation wherein you have to decide if euthanasia is right, your pet’s welfare should always come first. Try to remove all of your attachment, emotion and pride. Never prolong their life for your sake. It is more humane, and it is your duty as an owner to provide your dog a distress-free, and humane death. Ask yourself these questions:[1]

    • Is the treatment for my dog’s condition not possible anymore?
    • Is my dog in pain and distress that is not responsive to drugs or pain killers?
    • Is my dog suffering from severe and painful injuries from which he/she may never recover, like severe head trauma or severe bleeding?
    • Has terminal illness reduced the quality of life for my dog to a point that he/she can no longer eat, drink, move, or defecate on his/her own?
    • Does my dog have an inoperable birth defect that will give him/her a poor quality of life?
    • Is my dog suffering from a contagious disease like rabies that can pose a threat to life to other animals and humans?
    • Will my dog still be able to do the things he/she enjoys when treatment is available?
    • If the answers to any of the questions above are yes, then it may be time for the dog to be humanely put to sleep.
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    Talk to your vet about whether euthanasia is the best choice. They can properly assess the condition of your dog through tests and they will have the authority to tell you if the condition is still treatable or if your dog is near the end of its life. Your vet may be able to give you an idea of what kind of quality of life you can expect your dog to have if you choose to continue treatment.

    • While your vet can offer advice, the decision to put the dog to sleep is still up to you in the end.
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    Research the medical conditions that warrant euthanasia. In general, any condition that causes pain and suffering that cannot be easily cured or managed, be it acute or chronic, is a humane reason to put the dog to sleep. Here are some examples:[2]

    • Severe trauma from vehicular accidents.
    • Serious diseases that are difficult to treat, such as severe liver disease or uncontrolled diabetes.
    • End stage kidney failure, liver failure, and invasive or malignant tumors.
    • Contagious diseases that are incurable and pose a threat to the life of other animals and humans (an example would be Rabies).
    • Severe behavioral problems, such as extreme aggression that cannot be corrected with behavioral therapy, that can pose a risk to other animals, people, and the environment.
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    Look for the signs that your dog is ready for euthanasia. If you observe these signs in your dog, call your vet immediately and bring your dog in for an exam. Euthanasia may be called for if:[3]

    • The dog cannot eat, drink, stand or walk anymore, and has completely lost interest in these activities.
    • The dog is urinating or defecating uncontrollably.
    • Your dog’s breathing is labored, and the pup is unresponsive to emergency procedures and drugs.
    • There are signs of pain, such as crying or whining continually, due to a terminal illness or injury.
    • The dog is bedridden and cannot lift his/her head.
    • Your dog’s skin temperature is very low, indicating that the organs are already beginning to shut down.
    • The dog has large tumors that are inoperable and causing pain and immobilization.
    • The mucous membranes, like the gums, are gray and dehydrated.
    • Your dog has a very weak and slow pulse.

    reference: https://www.wikihow.com/Recognize-a-Dying-Dog

How to React when You See Dogs in Hot Cars

April 30, 2018 Comments Off on How to React when You See Dogs in Hot Cars Helping Dogs

Every summer, numerous dogs die in hot cars. A dog can die in a car in as little as six minutes due to the effects of heat. Dogs can get heatstroke, smother to death, or get dehydrated. Many states and countries have “hot car” laws making it illegal for dogs to be left in hot cars, but those laws don’t allow you to break into cars to get the dog out. If you see a dog left in a hot car, try to notify the owner or contact emergency authorities to help rescue the dog.

1

Notifying the Owner

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    Write down the car’s information. When you see a dog in a hot car, you should write down the car’s information. This includes any information needed to identify the car or owner. Write down the details about the car, such as the color, make, and model. You can also note the license plate number.[1]

    • You can write it down or take a picture of it with your cell phone.
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    Notify someone in authority. You should notify someone when you see a dog locked in a hot car. If you are in a parking lot where it’s easy to know which store the owner is in, go in to ask for a manager and see if they can call the owner of the car over the intercom. You may want to contact a security guard, parking lot attendant, or police officer you see nearby.[2]

    • If the manager won’t call the person over the intercom, try to be persistent. Ask the manager again and explain that the dog is in danger of dying.
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    Talk to the owner. Remain by the car monitoring the dog. Watch to see if the dog is responsive and active. Wait until the person returns to the car and you know that the dog is safe. When the owner returns, talk to them about the dangers of leaving the dog in a hot car. Stay calm, but firm. Don’t get angry or yell at the person. Use the moment to educate.[3]

    • For example, you might calmly explain that a dog can die from heatstroke or brain damage after 15 minutes in a hot car.

2

Dealing with Emergency Situations

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    Call the authorities. If you can’t find the owner of the car and you believe the dog is at risk of dying, call for help. You may call animal control or the police by using a non-emergency contact number. You want to try to get help so the dog can be rescued and saved before it dies from the heat.[4]

    • If possible, don’t leave the dog or car until the dog is safe.
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    Recognize heatstroke symptoms. Heatstroke is one of the major risks for a dog locked in a hot car. A dog can suffer from heatstroke within 15 minutes, and heatstroke can lead to death. When you see a dog in a hot car, look for the following signs:[5]

    • Thick saliva
    • Heavy panting
    • Dark tongue
    • Vomiting
    • Bloody diarrhea
    • Lack of coordination
    • Glazed eyes
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    Take the dog to the vet if they are suffering from heatstroke. After the dog has been rescued from the hot car, you should determine if they exhibit the symptoms of heatstroke. If they do, advise the owner to take them to the vet immediately so they can receive care.[6]

    • If the owner is unable to take the dog to the vet or not around, take the dog to an air conditioned building. Call animal control and tell them there’s an emergency and you need their help. They can help you get the dog to the vet.
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    Cool the dog down. Once the dog is taken out of the car, check to see if it has the symptoms of heatstroke. If the dog isn’t suffering from heatstroke, advise the owner to start trying to cool them down. The dog should be moved to an air conditioned car or building immediately. Offer the dog water to drink to start rehydrating.[7]

    • If the owner has not returned to the car, consider taking the dog to a nearby area so you can start cooling the dog down.
    • Cover the dog in cool water. You can use a hose, put them in a tub, or pour water over their head with a cup or pitcher. You might also place towels soaked with cool water on the dog. Shoot for the groin, stomach, chest, and paws. Make sure the water is cool not cold. This helps lower the dog’s body temperature.
    • Place the dog in front of a fan or a vent.

3

Understanding Legal Rights for Dog’s in Hot Cars

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    Refrain from breaking a window to rescue a dog. There is incorrect information circulating around the internet about police officers saying it is okay to break a car window to rescue a dog. This is not true. In some states, it’s even illegal for police officers to break into a car to rescue a dog. Though you may feel the need to break a window to rescue a dog, realize that the action may be a misdemeanor or felony.[8][9]

    • Some states, like Ohio and Florida, have good Samaritan laws that may protect someone from charges if they break a window to save an animal or child left in a hot car.[10][11] Check your state or country’s laws before breaking a window to make sure you don’t face criminal charges.
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    Contact your local government to improve laws. Not all states and countries have the same laws about animal cruelty or dogs in hot cars. If your area does not have hot car laws, or you are not satisfied with them, consider contacting your local government to encourage them to make a law or stricter laws regarding animals in hot cars.[12]

    • Less than half of the states in the United States have hot car laws.[13][14]
    • If your town doesn’t have laws protecting animals in hot cars, talk to officials about getting a law put into place.
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    Become an activist. Another way to react to seeing a dog in a hot car is to become an activist to help spread awareness about the dangers of leaving dogs in hot cars. Some people don’t realize the dangers, or others may not think about it in the moment. Many animal groups have fliers, videos, stickers, and even dashboard sunscreens that you can distribute around your community to help raise awareness.[15][16]

    • Talk to local businesses about putting up fliers in their establishment or signs on their doors reminding people, especially during the summer, not to leave dogs unattended in hot cars.

    reference: https://www.wikihow.com/React-when-You-See-Dogs-in-Hot-Cars

How to Prevent Heat Stroke in Dogs

April 30, 2018 Comments Off on How to Prevent Heat Stroke in Dogs Helping Dogs

Hot summer weather can be more dangerous to dogs than many pet owners realize. When a dog’s internal temperature is raised too high (generally about 106°F or 41°C), they can suffer a potentially fatal heat stroke. To keep your dog cool, make sure that they are prepared for hot weather with plenty of water and shade. If you are walking your dog, you may want to switch your usual path for a cooler, shadier trail. Driving with dogs presents its own risks, and whether you are going to the store or on a long-distance road trip, you should make sure your dog has what they need for the journey. Never leave a dog in a car alone.

1

Cooling Down Your Dog

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    Trim but do not shave their coat. Dogs’ fur is designed not only to keep them warm but to protect their skin from the sun. Some breeds have heavier coats than others, and you may want to take them to a dog groomer to have their coat trimmed for the summer months. That said, do not shave your dog, or you may leave them at risk for sunburn and overheating.[1]
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    Leave a water bowl outside. If you have a backyard where your dog runs free, you should leave out a full bowl of water when they are running around in the heat. Refill this bowl every time your dog goes outside to make sure that it is cool and fresh.
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    Give dogs plenty of shade. Dogs will need shady areas to rest while they are outside so that they do not overheat. If you have a backyard, you might want to provide your dog with an area of shade, either by giving them a dog house, an umbrella, or by planting trees.

    • If you are planning on taking your dog to the beach, be aware that there might not be much shade available. Sand can also become hot, burning your dog’s paws.[2]
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    Avoid tethering your dog outside for long periods of time. Some dogs are kept outside tied to a tree or post. Others might wait outside while their owner goes into a shop. Either way, in the summertime, it is inadvisable to leave your dog tethered for more than fifteen minutes. If you need to go shopping, leave the dog at home.[3]
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    Cool down the dog if they exhibit signs of heatstroke. Symptoms of heat stroke include heavy panting, difficulty breathing, loss of energy, drooling, and any obvious weakness or stumbling.[4] If your dog is starting to show these signs, you can hose them down with cool (but not cold) water. If you do not have a hose, you can put your dog in the shower. As you do this, check the dog’s rectal temperature every 30-60 seconds until the temperature is down to 103.5°F / 39.8°C. The goal is to slowly bring the dog’s temperature down. You should have the dog checked out by a veterinarian.[5]

    • You can also soak rags or wash cloths in cool water. Place these inside of the dog’s thighs.
    • Do not use cold water, ice packs, or iced water. These can actually prevent the dog from cooling down.[6]
    • If you do not have a thermometer or cool water available to you, go directly to the vet.[7]

2

Walking and Exercising With Your Dog

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    Go out during the cooler hours. The early morning and late evening hours will be much cooler than the middle of the day. It is recommend to walk your dog during these hours to avoid the worst of the heat.[8]
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    Walk your dog on soft ground. Asphalt can become dangerously hot during the summer, burning your dog’s paws and increasing their temperature. Instead of walking on sidewalks or blacktop, try to find dirt trails or grassy areas where you can walk your dog.[9]
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    Carry a collapsible water dish. You will need to give your dog plenty of water while you walk. Plan on taking frequent breaks so that your dog can rehydrate. Inflatable water bowls fold up easily in a backpack or pocket, and they allow your dog to drink water easily. Pour water from a bottle into the bowl so that your dog can drink at their leisure.
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    Rest in shady areas. If your dog starts panting heavily or stumbling, they need to rest. These may be signs of oncoming heatstroke. Find a cool, shaded area to let your dog cool off for a few minutes. Do not stop out in middle of hot asphalt or in direct sunlight. These can cause your dog’s temperature to spike.[10]
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    Watch for signs of overheating. Keep an eye on your dog for signs of heatstroke. If your pet begins to tire or pant heavily, stop in a shady spot and give them some water. If symptoms don’t subside, take them directly home and seek veterinary care.

3

Driving with Your Dog

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    Equip your car with window shades. When your car is parked, you can put these shades in the windshield to prevent the car from heating up too much. The shades block out direct sunlight. Be aware that in the height of summer, the car will still be warm, but the inside of the car will not take as long to cool down for you and your dog.
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    Give your dog water breaks. Your dog will need to be hydrated during the journey. If you are going on a long car trip, make sure to take regular breaks every hour or two to give your dog water. Bring along a travel dish or a collapsible water dish. Pour water in from a water bottle, and let your dog drink until they are satisfied.[11]
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    Put the air conditioner on. Even if you don’t need the A/C, your dog might. Proper ventilation and air flow is important for your dog in the car. If your dog is traveling in a crate, make sure that the air can reach them. The crate should have holes, and the air flow should be unobstructed towards the crate.[12]

    • If your A/C does not work, you can also crack a window while the car is moving. Do not let your dog stick their head out of the window.
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    Never leave your dog unattended in a parked car. Even if you park in the shade and leave the windows open, the internal temperature of your car can spike very quickly to dangerous levels. Do not leave your dog in the car, even for just a few minutes. Leave them at home when you need to go to the store. If you are traveling with them, keep them close at all times.[13]

reference: https://www.wikihow.com/Prevent-Heat-Stroke-in-Dogs

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