Category: Helping Dogs

How to Treat a Sprained Ankle on a Dog

A sprained ankle is an injury to the tendons, ligaments, and/or the muscles related to that joint. This can occur as a result of strenuous play or minor accidents. Quickly recognizing the signs of an injury to this area is key to treating it before it develops into a more significant problem.

Part1

Recognizing the Signs of a Sprained Ankle

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    Understand your dog’s anatomy. Dogs actually stand and walk on the toes of their front and rear legs. When a dog is standing, you will see its ankle on its hind leg between the knee and the toes. This is similar to where a your ankle is when you stand on your toes.[1]

    • Dogs do not have ankles on their front legs, just as you don’t have them on your arms. Other types of sprains can occur in the front legs, and they are treated similarly.
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    Know the causes of a sprained ankle. Many dogs are athletic. The activities they take part in can put an extreme amount of force and stress on their joints and sometimes this results in an injury.[2]

    • Running, jumping, and making sharp and quick turns can put undue stress on a joint.
    • While not all dogs are equally energetic, their joints can also be put under more stress than they can handle. A sprain can also be the result of slipping, falling, stepping in a hole, or something as seemingly minor as jumping on or off the couch. Any of these can cause your dog to end up with a sprain.
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    Look for limping. The first, and usually the most recognizable sign of an ankle sprain is limping on the affected rear leg.[3]

    • A dog with a sprain will often try not to put weight on the affected leg.
    • Depending on the severity, the dog may carry the leg in a raised position, not using it at all.
    • Be aware of other common reasons for rear leg lameness. Injuries to the hip, knee, or foot area can also cause a dog to limp.[4]
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    Look for a visible injury. You may see swelling or redness around the ankle if your dog has a sprain.[5]

    • You may also notice your dog regularly licking the area.
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    Look for behavioral signs. An injured dog may also display changes in its normal behavior. Changes to look for that can suggest an injury include:[6]

    • A change in appetite, usually apparent in decreased food consumption
    • A change in activity level, such as sleeping more or a reluctance to exercise
    • Vocalization related to the injury, such as barking, grunting, or whining when the ankle is touched or moved

Part2

Treating a Sprained Ankle

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    Make your dog rest. Rest is the first step to treating a sprain.[7] To ensure your dog gets enough rest, you will need to restrict your dog’s activity. You should keep the dog inside or in a small area where it is unable to run or play. The less active the dog is, the better.

    • As needed, you can take your dog outside on a short leash. Keep the walk short and slow.[8] Return the dog to a confined area as soon as possible.
    • Restrict the dog’s activity for a full 48 hours to give the injury enough time to heal.
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    Apply an ice pack. To reduce swelling, help with pain, and aid in the healing process, apply an ice pack for 10 to 15 minutes.[9]

    • Wrap the ice pack in a towel to protect the dog’s skin from any excessive cold.
    • Repeated as needed, waiting at least two hours between applications. This will help prevent irritating the skin and reducing circulation, which can delay healing.
    • You can use a bag of frozen vegetables, such as peas, for an ice pack that you can mold around the ankle. This will allow you to evenly and effectively apply the ice to all of the damaged tissue.[10]
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    Apply heat. If your dog has an older, chronic, or recurrent injury it is not recommended to apply an ice pack. At this stage of an injury it is best to apply moist heat.[11]

    • Heat will improve circulation and help to loosen tightness in the muscles while having a soothing effect.
    • To apply heat, use a damp towel warmed in the dryer or microwave. Be sure the towel isn’t hot enough to burn the skin.
    • Apply heat for 10 to 15 minutes. Then, remove it for at least an hour before applying again.[12]
    • Don’t use a heat treatment immediately after exercise.
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    Watch for signs of improvement or worsening. During the 48 hour rest period you should watch closely for signs that the injury is improving or worsening. With rest and treatment, most ankle sprains will be back to normal fairly quickly.

    • If the leg is not better after 48 hours or if it is getting worse, consult with your veterinarian.[13]
    • If you don’t see improvement, it’s possible that your dog may just need more rest, along with some veterinarian-prescribed medication.
    • Sometimes, there can also be an injury in another area that is delaying recovery. If there is a more serious injury, such as a dislocation or small fracture, your vet can do a full examination and X-rays if needed.

    reference: https://www.wikihow.com/Treat-a-Sprained-Ankle-on-a-Dog

How to Treat a Snakebite on a Dog

Not all snakes are venomous but if your dog is bitten by a venomous snake then every second counts. A dog’s relatively small size means it could be at grave risk of death and you need to act quickly. The seriousness of the incident depends on the type of snake, the amount of venom injected, and the size of the dog. Your dog’s best chance of survival is to immediately take it to a veterinarian with anti-venom, so in most cases it’s best to assume the worst, know how to act, and seek prompt help.

Part1

Preventing Snakebites

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    Make your yard unattractive to snakes. This is important if you live in an area that has venomous snakes. Clear away brush piles and undergrowth. You want to minimize the places that a snake will hide.[1]

    • Also make your yard unattractive to rodents. If you have rodents in your yard, and you live in an area that generally has snakes, then snakes will be attracted to the area. Keep food, including bird seed, out of your yard, so that rodents are not attracted there.
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    Keep an eye on dogs that are more likely to get a snake bite. There are some dogs that are more likely to get a snake bite. With this in mind, you should take preventive measures to avoid the potential for snakebites happening to your dogs.

    • Dogs are naturally inquisitive when young and puppies often think a snake is a moving toy. Keep an eye on puppies or young dogs when in areas populated by snakes.
    • Hunting dogs are at greater risk because of their instinct to hunt. When young and agile, they may be able to attack a snake and succeed in killing it before the snake bites. However, as the dog’s agility lessens with old age, the outcome may not be so successful and older hunting dogs tend to get bitten.
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    Be cautious with your dog during times of the year when snakes are active.Snakes are more active in the warmer months and tend to hibernate during winter.[2]Early spring bites will carry the most potency, as the snake’s venom glands have built up during hibernation.

    • Remember, prevention is always better than cure; it makes sense to take precautions to avoid snakebite in the first place.
    • Keep dogs out of long grass or shade shrubberies where snakes are likely to lie hidden.

Part2

Assessing a Snake Bite

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    Understand the possible severity of a snake bite. Being bitten by a snake causes a range of problems of varying severity. At the milder end of the scale is the pain and discomfort caused by a penetrating bite, which can include soreness, inflammation, and pain locally on the skin. On the other end, a snake bite can lead to death.

    • Depending on the snake’s species, the toxin it injects may either be a neurotoxin (affecting the nervous system) or a hemotoxin (affecting the blood and circulation). This can lead to rapid paralysis (neurotoxin), including the muscles of respiration so the victim slowly suffocates, or a life-threatening inability to clot blood, organ failure and shock (hemotoxin).[3]
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    Be aware that snakes do not envenomate (release venom) with every bite. This depends on whether they have recently bitten something else, and also on the time of year.[4] Observe the pet closely, but if in any doubt seek veterinary attention.

    • It is better to travel to the vet’s to discover the dog is fine, than wait until symptoms appear by which time treatment could be too late.
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    Look for the symptoms of a venomous snake bite. Bear in mind that some of the symptoms are general, such as vomiting, which means that it is not the case that every vomiting dog has been bitten by a snake. These general signs become significant if the dog also has puncture marks, possible exposure to snakes, and rapidly developing symptoms. Here are some of the symptoms to be expected when a dog is bitten by a venomous snake:

    • Trembling
    • Vomiting
    • Salivation, drooling, frothing
    • Diarrhea
    • Weakness in the back legs, unsteadiness
    • Dilated pupils
    • Respiratory distress
    • Bloody urine
    • Continuous bleeding from the bite wound
    • A flaccid paralysis leading to coma or respiratory failure
    • Death can occur within 30 minutes to two hours, depending on the type of snake venom and the amount of venom injected.
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    Be aware of the specific symptoms of snakes in your area. This can be very helpful if the venom from a snake in your area has unique symptoms. For example, a bite from a Coral snake may be painless, and it can take up to 18 hours before symptoms develop. This means it’s all too easy to be lulled into a false sense of security and assume the dog is OK. Instead, the opposite is true and you should use the time to seek veterinary treatment.[5]

Part3

Identifying the Snake

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    Protect yourself. If you see the snake, do NOT approach the snake. It is not recommended under most circumstances that you try to kill the snake yourself; you could end up a casualty or waste the precious time you need to save your dog.
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    Make a note of the appearance of the snake. Pay attention to it’s head shape, approximate length, color, and pattern. In the US the commonest cause of venomous snake bite is the rattlesnake but other significant snakes include the coral snake, Cottonmouths (Water Moccasins) Banded rock snake, Black-tailed snake, Canebrake, Diamondback snake, Massasauga, Mojave, Mottled rock snake, Pacific snake, Pygmy, Prairie snake, Red diamond and Ridge-nosed snakes.[6]

    • Also be aware that as a general rule of thumb venomous snakes have slit shaped pupils (like a cat) and non-venomous snakes have round pupils (like a dog). Of course, do not get close enough to look if you aren’t certain!
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    Take a picture of the snake if you can. If you can do so safely, take a photo with your phone or with any camera you have handy. If the snake is aggressive and moving towards you, skip the photo and retreat.

    • Likewise, do not prevent the snake from escaping in order to take a picture. You could end up being bitten.
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    Don’t feel bad or panic if you didn’t get a good look at the snake. If your vet can identify the bite area, your vet can swab the bite site using a snake detection kit to identify the snake venom. However, if you can give any details about the snake or your dog’s reaction to the bite, it will help.

Part4

Getting Medical Treatment For a Snakebite

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    Don’t panic. You need to keep a calm head and focus on your dog’s health. Getting your dog help should be your primary concern, so focus on it and don’t lose your composure.
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    Seek immediate veterinary attention. Call your veterinary clinic ahead of time and tell them you are bringing in a dog with a snakebite. This will allow the vet to prioritize treating your dog once you arrive. It may also help them to make logistics arrangements to make the admissions process smoother, such as getting you a parking spot close to the clinic and retrieving your dog’s health records.

    • Be aware that a dog showing signs of toxicity is not a problem that you can care for at home or will not stand a good chance of survival with first aid alone. The dog is likely to require anti-venom, intravenous fluids to support failing organs, and pain relief. All of these require the intervention of a veterinary professional.
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    Treat your dog with first aid. The farther away you are from the vet and the greater the amount of venom from the bite, the worse your dog’s chances of survival. However, some basic first aid will increase your dog’s chances of survival, especially during the car trip to the vet’s:

    • Apply a pressure bandage to a limb bite but do not apply a tourniquet or bandage the wound too tightly. This will restrict blood flow too much.
    • Do not wash the bite area or cut the wound. Do not try to suck or squeeze out the venom.
    • The dog is likely to be in pain and restless. However, moving around increases blood circulation and spreads the toxin more rapidly. Try to keep your dog calm (and its heart rate down) by acting calm yourself and speaking to it in a reassuring manner. Do not encourage the dog to walk, instead carry him to your car.[7]
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    Avoid unreliable treatments. There are many myths when it comes to treating snakebites, and taking these actions can make matters worse rather than better. Avoid trying to suck venom out, cutting the animal to make it bleed, applying a tourniquet to localize the venom, and ice-packs over the site of the bite. These are all to be avoided.
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    Know what to expect at the vet’s. You may feel better if you know how the vet will probably treat your dog. Although treatment depends on the type of venom and the treatment facilities available, Your vet will likely:

    • Determine the stage of envenomation
    • Examine the site of the wound
    • Administer a snake detection test (blood or urine sample) and analyze the results
    • Give your dog intravenous fluids and appropriate anti-venom
      • Anti-venom is administered by slow intravenous injection. In a small number of cases the dog can be allergic to the anti-venom, in which case the outlook is poor. Many vets will administer an antihistamine at around the time the antivenom is given, in order to reduce the risk of a severe allergic reaction (anaphylaxis), which could send the dog into shock.
      • Intravenous fluids may be given to support the organs, especially the kidneys. Once the dog has recovered the vet may suggest monitoring its renal function with blood tests to check there was no lasting damage.[8]
    • Give your dog antihistamines, allergy reduction reduction drugs, painkillers, or sedatives if they are necessary
      • Broad spectrum antibiotics are generally given to protect against secondary infections as a result of tissue damage.[9]
    • In some cases the venom causes blood clotting disorders, which can lead to hemorrhage. The vet may assess the dog and decide that a blood transfusion is necessary or the administration of replacement clotting factors in order to prevent internal bleeding.[10]
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    Care for your dog while it recovers. The consequences of a bite can be extremely painful, and while the anti-venom can reduce the spread of the toxins, they do not deal with the pain. Expect recovery in 24 – 48 hours, but expect that your dog will take more time to get back to his old self. Set aside time to nurse your dog back to full health and ask the vet for advice.

    • The vet will likely use strong painkillers, such as those from the morphine family, to control the pain while the animal recovers.[11]
    • If the dog has nerve damage and difficulty breathing, it may need intensive care facilities, where it can be put in an oxygen tent or onto a respirator until it recovers.
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    Be prepared for long-term effects from the snake bite. Some dogs suffer long term complications, such as damage to their kidneys. This will only reveal itself over time, and the vet will monitor your dog’s renal function by taking regular blood tests.

    • Others recover from the toxin but suffer extensive areas of skin loss and sloughing because of damage done by swelling and the toxins. These will be managed by your veterinarian with antibiotics, pain relief, and dressing, with a view to a skin graft if necessary.[12]

    reference: https://www.wikihow.com/Treat-a-Snakebite-on-a-Dog

How to Treat a Panting Dog

Dogs and panting go hand in hand. You may notice your dog panting with his tongue lolling out the side of his mouth. Since dogs don’t sweat like humans do, panting is how a dog cools himself down. In healthy dogs, panting is a normal part of running or playing hard, especially if he is excited, anxious, or somewhere warm.[1] In unusual cases (often caused by medical conditions), your dog’s panting may be heavy or labored. Either way, learn how to relieve your dog’s panting.

Part1

Easing Normal Panting

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    Give your dog water. If you’re sure your dog is healthy, he may be panting because he’s thirsty and overheated. Offer your dog cool, not ice cold, water. If the water is too cold, your dog may find it uncomfortable and stop drinking.

    • If you’re exercising with your dog, periodically give him water breaks.[2]
    • To prevent your dog from gulping too much water, try to give him water from a water bottle. Drinking slowly can prevent stomach cramps.[3]
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    Put your dog in a quiet, cool environment. If your dog is overheating, you should put him in a cool place that has air conditioning or a room that has a fan running. If you have the option, let your dog go for a dip in the pool or lake. Once your dog seems to have cooled off and isn’t panting as much, offer him water again.[4]

    • Consider dipping a towel in water, wringing it out, and draping it over your dog. This will cool him off, especially after exercising in a warm environment.[5]
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    Calm your dog. If your dog is overexcited or anxious, take charge and calm him down. If you’re worried or panicked, your dog will feed off your emotions so don’t appear nervous. Instead, comfort your dog by talking to him in a soothing voice while petting him.[6]

    • You may be able to distract your dog from what’s worrying him. Try giving him a small treat or his favorite toy to play with.

Part2

Managing Causes of Heavy Panting

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    Check for signs of severe dehydration. If your dog has been in a hot environment and is panting heavily, he may be overheated. Check to see if his gums are beet red or pale. If so, get your dog to a cool place with a fan on him and offer cool water.[7]

    • If your dog doesn’t stop panting or acts weak, take him to the veterinarian.
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    Consider your dog’s overall health. Your dog may pant heavily to flush his body of toxic substances if he has chronic health problems, like heart or lung disease. If your dog is obese, he’s more likely to pant heavily because of heat exhaustion. This is because the extra fat and energy required to carry the weight makes your dog work harder.

    • If you have an older dog who suddenly pants more when he does average physical activities or when he’s laying down, make an appointment to have him examined.[8]
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    Treat your dog for heat exhaustion or fever. Your dog may pant heavily if his body temperature rises externally (in hot weather) or internally (by fever due to illness or infection). In these cases, he’ll pant to rid his body of this heat. If your dog has heat exhaustion or a fever over 102.5 degrees, immediately call the veterinarian. Your veterinarian should tell you what steps you’ll need to take before bringing your dog in for medical treatment.[9]

    • To take your dog’s temperature use a rectal thermometer, or an ear thermometer if your dog will tolerate it. Never take an oral (mouth) temperature since it won’t be accurate.
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    Know when to get medical attention. Take your dog to the veterinarian if you notice heavy panting and:[10]

    • Pain from arthritis
    • Pain from abdominal problems like bloat or pancreatitis
    • Pain from an injury
    • Fever over 102.5 degrees
    • Panting that lasts more than 10 minutes
    • A bluish purple or very pale mouth or tongue
      • See the vet immediately if your dog has bloat, pancreatitis, colored or pale mouth or tongue, and heavy breathing.
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    Consider less common causes of heavy panting. Occasionally, some medical conditions or medications may cause your dog to pant heavily. Consult with your veterinarian if you suspect one of the following is causing the heavy panting:

    • Cushing’s disease: This hormonal disease causes your dog to produce too much cortisol.[11] Panting is one of the minor signs of this disease, while a pot belly and increased eating, drinking, and urination are more common symptoms.
    • Medication: Some medications such as steroids (like prednisone) can cause your dog to pant.[12]
    • Pregnancy and related conditions: If your dog is pregnant, the added weight can cause her to pant heavily, especially by the end of pregnancy. Milk fever (eclampsia) in nursing mothers can also lead cause heavy panting. Calcium levels in the blood stream plummet when the milk demand for calcium becomes too high.[13]

    reference: https://www.wikihow.com/Treat-a-Panting-Dog

How to Tell if a Small Dog Is Okay After a Fall

Although dog owners can try their best to keep their pet safe from harm, accidents can happen. One cause of accidental injury for dogs is falling. Although dogs may seem agile, they can be hurt just as bad as any other animal from a fall. Dogs can get excited and jump from an upstairs window or out of a car window while driving. Knowing what to look for and what to tell your veterinarian can make a big difference in getting your dog the care that it needs after a fall.

Part1

Assessing Your Dog After The Fall

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    Keep calm. Although witnessing your dog suffer a fall can be a frightening experience, you need to remain calm. By staying as relaxed as possible you will be able to best assess your dog’s condition as well as help your dog to remain calm. This can prevent further injury or stress.[1]

    • If your dog sees you panicking it will likely also panic, increasing its pain and stress levels.
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    Look for injuries. After your dog has fallen, calmly look for any signs of injury that you can see. Don’t touch your dog as you look, use only your eyes. By evaluating the extent of damage your dog has sustained during the fall, you will be able to best judge what to do next. Look for some of the following signs of injury in your dog:[2][3]

    • Yelping is a clear sign that your dog is in pain.
    • Check your dog for any surface injuries such as cuts, scrapes, or protruding bones.
    • Look at the dog’s front and back legs. If a limb is broken, it will appear disfigured, being bent or held at an odd angle.
    • Some broken bones might not be visible. If your dog is limping for more than five minutes, take it to your veterinarian.
    • Injured dogs will breathe faster than normal. Look for a sustained increase in the rate of breathing in your dog.
    • Not all injuries will be external or visible. Only a veterinarian will be able to verify internal injuries.
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    Apply first aid. If you have noticed any obvious injuries to your dog you can apply first aid. Applying basic first aid to your dog can help prevent the injury from worsening during the time it takes to get it to the veterinarian. Only apply first aid if your dog seems comfortable with you doing so. Stress and pain might make your dog growl or even bite you, so work slowly and monitor your dog’s reactions.[4]

    • If your dog is not able to move, do not pick it up until it has a stable and solid surface underneath it such as a board.
    • Never treat any serious wounds yourself. Leave severe injuries for your veterinarian to treat.
    • Clean any superficial cuts or wounds by applying hydrogen peroxide to the affected area.
    • Apply pressure using a clean piece of gauze to any areas that are heavily bleeding.
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    Call and visit your veterinarian. Having assessed what injuries your dog may have and after applying first aid, it’s time to call your veterinarian. Your veterinarian will be able to best identify and treat any injuries your dog may have after its fall.[5]

    • If your dog has severe injuries, take it to an emergency veterinarian immediately.
    • Take your dog to the veterinarian as soon as possible, even if injuries are not immediately life threatening.
    • Even if your dog doesn’t have apparent or obvious injuries, your veterinarian can detect issues that may be internal or unclear.

Part2

Taking Your Dog To The Vet

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    Inform your veterinarian about the fall. When you meet with your veterinarian you will need to provide accurate information about your dog’s injuries. By giving your veterinarian this information, they will be able to start treating your dog more quickly and efficiently.

    • Tell your veterinarian exactly how and when your dog fell.
    • Inform your veterinarian about any signs of injury that you have noticed.
    • Let your veterinarian know about any first aid you have administered.
    • Tell your veterinarian about any past injuries or surgeries that your dog may have had.
    • Be ready to provide basic information about your dog including age, current medications, or other health issues.
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    Be aware of some tests and procedures your veterinarian may perform. Your veterinarian will likely perform some diagnostic tests and will administer certain medical techniques to treat your dog’s injuries. Review some of the following possible tests and treatments that your veterinarian may perform.[6][7]

    • A basic physical exam will let your veterinarian learn of any surface injuries as well as the overall condition of your dog.
    • Orthopedic examinations will check for any injuries to the bones, joints, muscles, or affected range of movement in your dog. This examination may include an x-ray.
    • Neurological examinations will be ordered if your dog has hit its head during the fall. If your dog is walking oddly or seemingly unaware, this test can help determine if your dog’s nervous system was damaged.
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    Follow any instructions given by your veterinarian. After your dog has received initial emergency treatment and has been cleared to go home with you, your veterinarian will likely give you home-care instructions. These instructions must be accurately followed to ensure that your dog will have a quick and full recovery.[8][9]

    • If your dog is given medications, keep up with the schedule. Make sure your dog is consuming them completely if administered orally.
    • Keep up with changing any bandages that your dog may need.
    • You may need to apply ice or heat packs to your dog’s injuries.
    • Make sure your dog rests and keep activities to a minimum while injuries heal.

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Part 2 Quiz

What might indicate that your dog has damaged its nervous system?

Part3

Preventing Your Dog From Falling

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    Keep car windows up. If your dog enjoys going for car rides with you, take this simple step to help keep it safe. Although most humans wouldn’t dare jump out of a moving car, your dog might not be so hesitant. Keep the windows rolled up enough to prevent your dog from jumping out during your drive.[10]

    • You might also wish to purchase a seatbelt designed specifically for your dog, to keep it as safe as can be during any road trips.
    • Consider locking power windows as dogs may accidentally be able to roll them down.
    • Do not leave your dog alone in the car on a hot day with the windows rolled up. This can raise temperatures to a deadly degree for your dog.[11]
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    Always leave house windows closed. A common fall hazard for dogs is any open window in your house that it can reach. Even if the window has a screen on it, your dog may still try and escape, which can lead to it suffering a dangerous fall. Any window your dog can reach needs to be kept closed enough so that your dog cannot fit out the window.[12]
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    Keep your dog away from fall hazards in the home. If your home has potential fall hazards you should prevent your dog from accessing this areas. Keeping your dog away from these potentially dangerous ares will help keep it safe in your home.

    • Steep stair cases, lofts without a railing, and balconies are some examples of places in your home that your dog may fall from.
    • Make sure to leave doors to these areas closed.
    • You can buy pet-gates to block off staircases or doorways in your home.
    • Never bring your dog into an area of the house that presents a fall hazard.
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    Take your dog to your veterinarian if it falls without reason. If you notice your dog stumbling and falling without any apparent reason, it should be taken to your veterinarian as soon as possible. This may be a sign of a medical condition that your veterinarian will be able to diagnose and offer treatment options for.[13]

    • Inner ear issues or ear infections can cause your dog fall down.
    • Brain tumors, which are more common in older dogs, can also be responsible for your dog falling.

    reference: https://www.wikihow.com/Tell-if-a-Small-Dog-Is-Okay-After-a-Fall

How to Tell if Your Dog Is Having a Medical Emergency

If your dog is acting strange or showing signs of sickness, it is never wrong to call your veterinarian. Sick or injured dogs can show a wide range of symptoms, and it can be hard to tell whether a situation is serious is or not. That said, certain symptoms, such as a swollen stomach or fainting, should always receive medical care. Call your vet for advice. If they recommend that you bring your dog in for treatment, transport the dog safely and comfortably.

1

Identifying Severe Medical Emergencies

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    Watch out for fainting, fits, or seizures. If your dog suddenly collapses, faints, or convulses, there is likely something wrong. Any loss of consciousness is a sign of a serious medical condition. Call your vet immediately.[1]

    • If your dog is experiencing a seizure, do not touch or move the dog. Move any objects that might fall on or hurt the dog, but do not put your hands or body near its mouth. The dog may bite or injure you.
    • If the dog has fainted, drape a blanket over the dog. When you take the dog to the vet, carry it out. Do not drag the dog.
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    Get immediate medical attention if you notice a swollen or distended belly. A swollen or distended stomach can be a sign of many serious gastric problems. Take your dog to the vet as soon as possible for treatment, especially if the dog is also vomiting.[2]

    • A swollen stomach can be a sign of bloat, also known as gastric dilatation. Your dog may also try to vomit repeatedly, sometimes without luck. This is a serious problem that requires emergency attention.
    • Internal bleeding can also cause the abdomen to swell. This can cause your dog to go into shock, which may be fatal if untreated.
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    Watch for an inability to pass urine despite straining. Signs of straining include repeated lifting of the back leg or squatting. When the dog moves away, the ground is dry. The dog may also lick its genitals excessively, as if attempting to relieve discomfort.[3]

    • Not being able to pass urine is a genuine emergency which requires immediate veterinary attention. Failing to do so could result in the bladder bursting, kidney failure, or even a heart attack.
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    Look for changes in mental status or behavior. Your dog may respond in a bizarre or unusual manner. It might walk into things, press its head against the wall, or not recognize you. Altered mental status can indicate a metabolic or neurological disease. Take your dog to the vet as soon as possible.[4]

    • Altered mental status can be difficult to assess, because you need to be able to recognize what is normal for your pet. Changes in normal behavior are usually signs of a medical condition.
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    Seek veterinary help if your dog is unable to walk. Check to see if the dog is unable to stand, collapses while walking, or walks while dragging its back legs. Whether your dog is old or young, the inability to walk is a sign your dog needs medical care.[5]

    • Age, arthritis, pain, and circulatory problems are some of the reasons why your dog may be struggling to walk.

2

Looking for Symptoms of Sickness

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    Observe any coughing or wheezing. If you hear constant coughing, wheezing, or noisy breathing for several hours, make an appointment with your vet. If the dog starts coughing up pink foam or froth, take it to the vet immediately.[6]

    • Coughing and wheezing can be signs of numerous illnesses. They may indicate a respiratory infection or show that your dog is struggling to breathe.
    • If it appears your dog is coughing something up, gently place your fingers in its mouth to see if you can identify what is causing the choking. If you can’t find it, call your vet for advice.[7]
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    Watch for difficulty breathing. Listen for heavy, long, or loud, labored breathing. The dog may expand its belly to try to fill its chest with air or stretch its neck out as it breathes. These can be signs that your dog is struggling to breathe.[8]
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    Inspect the color of the dog’s gums. Look into your dog’s mouth to check the color of its gums. A healthy dog with well-oxygenated blood usually has bright pink gums. Pale gums may be a sign of sickness. Blue gums are much more serious, as they are a sign that your dog is struggling to breathe.[9]
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    Monitor your dog if it has been vomiting or experiencing diarrhea. If the dog vomits only 2 or 3 times, wait 24 hours to see if the dog gets better. If there are other symptoms and the dog keeps vomiting for 2-3 hours, call the vet. If there is blood in the vomit or diarrhea, get the dog immediate medical attention.[10]

    • Blood in vomit or diarrhea can be a sign of internal bleeding, parasites, or an internal obstruction.
    • If your dog has diarrhea or vomiting, give it plenty of fresh water to prevent dehydration.
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    Identify any foul-smelling discharge from your dog. Discharge from the dog’s eyes, mouth, nose, or genitals can indicate various illnesses, such as pyometra or a cold. If there is a strange or foul odor to the discharge, take your dog to the vet.[11]

    • The discharge may be clear, white, yellow, or green in color.
    • If you see clear, odorless discharge from your dog, it may not be a medical emergency, but you may still want to have your vet check it out.
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    Check for an increased respiratory rate. Count how many times your dog takes a breath in a minute. This is its respiratory rate. A normal respiratory rate is 10-34 breaths per minute. If the dog is resting and its respiratory rate is 60 BPM, it may need medical attention.[12]

    • Check its respiratory rate after it has been resting for at least 15-20 minutes. It is normal for your dog to have a higher respiratory rate after exercise or when it is excited. Dogs may also pant if they are happy, stressed, or hot.
    • If the dog’s respiratory rate is between 34 and 60, keep an eye on it. Check it again after 15-20 minutes to see if it has gone down. If it is still raised, call your vet for advice.
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    Check your dog’s pulse. For this method, you must know what your dog’s average heart rate is, since this can vary greatly between dogs. Place your hand over the dog’s heart or near the top of its hind legs to feel its pulse. Count how many beats there are in a minute. If it is higher or lower than normal, call your vet for advice.[13]

    • To learn your dog’s baseline rate, take its pulse a few times while it is healthy. Larger dogs may have a heart rate of 60-100 beats per minute while smaller dogs may have a heart rate between 100-140 beats per minute.
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    Watch out for weakness or lethargy. Compare your dog’s activity to its normal self. If it is suddenly sleeping or resting more than usual, this can be a sign of an illness or condition. It may also seem depressed, act quieter than usual, or avoid exercise.[14]

    • Lethargy alone may not be a sign of a medical emergency, but it can indicate something is wrong.
    • There are many reasons why lethargy and weakness may develop, from heart disease to running a fever.
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    Watch for any unusual restless behavior. If your dog suddenly starts pacing, circling, or moving around frequently, it may be feeling restless. Restlessness alone is not a serious condition. If joined with other symptoms, however, like vomiting or heavy drooling, it may be a sign of a serious condition.[15]

    • If your dog is restless while breastfeeding, it may have hypocalcemia (also known as milk fever), a serious condition that needs immediate medical attention.
    • If the dog is restless and vomiting, check the stomach for any swelling. If the dog has a swollen belly, see a vet immediately. The dog may have bloat.

3

Checking Injuries and Other Trauma

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    Seek immediate veterinary attention if your dog has eaten any toxins. If your dog has ingested poisonous chemicals, paint, poisonous plants, or other toxic substances, take it to the vet immediately. The effects of the toxin will depend on exactly what type of poison it is, how much was eaten, and the dog’s size.[16]

    • Even if you just suspect that your dog has eaten something bad, get it to the vet just in case. Do not induce vomiting, unless your vet specifically tells you to.
    • There are many plants that are dangerous for dogs. These include azaleas, lillies, and tulips. If you find your dog chewing or eating these plants, take it to the vet, even if it is not displaying signs of sickness.[17]
    • Signs of poisoning in dogs include vomiting, diarrhea, seizures, nosebleeds, and lack of energy.
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    Inspect the dog’s fur for signs of a burn or scald. If the dog has come into contact with a hot or burning object, its fur may cover up the burn. If you’re worried about a burn, brush back the dog’s fur gently. Look for signs of redness, peeling, bleeding, or swelling.[18]
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    Take the dog to the vet after falls, fights, and traffic accidents. Even if your dog appears fine at first, a vet can check for broken bones, bruising, and internal injuries. Handle broken bones carefully until you can get the dog to the vet.[19]

    • Even if the dog is able to walk, it is best to treat this as an emergency because pain can push a dog into shock, which can be life-threatening. Signs of shock include pale gums, cold paws and limbs, a weak pulse, and lethargy. These are signs that your dog needs immediate medical treatment.
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    See the vet if you notice heavy bleeding. Observe any injuries carefully for bleeding. Heavy bleeding may spurt, constantly drip, or soak through a bandage in a matter of minutes. If you can, wrap the dog’s wound in a gauze bandage and elevate the wound until you can reach the vet.[20]

    • Apply pressure to the wound for several minutes. Non-life-threatening bleeding stops when pressure is applied over the injury, and the bleeding does not resume when the pressure is removed.
    • Any bleeding that resumes once pressure is removed should be treated as an emergency.

4

Acting in an Emergency

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    Call your vet first to see if you can bring your dog in. Explain your dog’s symptoms and injuries to the vet. Ask them what you should do. The vet may give you advice over the phone or tell you when you can come in to see them.[21]

    • If it is outside of your vet’s normal hours, check their website to see if they have an emergency line. Call this number instead.
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    Take your dog to an emergency vet if your normal vet is unavailable. If you can’t reach your vet or if your vet can’t see your dog right away, find an emergency vet or animal hospital near you. These are open 24-hours a day and usually do not require an appointment.[22]

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    Speak to the dog in a soothing voice. During a medical emergency, your dog may be panicked, distressed, or upset. Even the friendliest of dogs may react aggressively towards its beloved owners while sick. Speak to your dog in a soft soothing voice. If the dog will let you touch it, stroke its head and shoulders.[23]

    • If the dog snaps, growls, or tries to bite you, try not to touch it as much as possible. Coax it into the dog carrier or car using a treat, toy, or leash.
    • If needed, you can make a muzzle out of a belt, gauze, or pantyhose. Wrap it around its jaw, keeping its nose free to breathe.
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    Carry an injured or immobile dog while transporting it to the vet. Place small dogs in a pet carrier if you have one. Medium and large dogs may need 2 people to carry them through the door. Never drag an injured dog.[24]

    • Drape a blanket over the dog to keep it warm while you take it to the vet. If the dog is going into shock, its body temperature may drop.
    • Once at the vet, hand the dog over to the veterinarian. They will treat your dog as soon as possible. You may wait in the lobby while the dog is being treated.
    • If you don’t have someone there to help carry a larger dog, try to pick the dog up from around the chest. If you can’t lift the dog, ask a friend to come over or see if the vet will make a house call.

    reference: https://www.wikihow.com/Tell-if-Your-Dog-Is-Having-a-Medical-Emergency

How to Take Care of an Injured Dog

Just like a person, a dog can be hurt in ways that are both obvious and harder to detect. Unlike a person though, a dog can’t tell you when it hurts or what you should do to help. To know how to care for an injured dog, you must be able to determine what type of injury the dog has. It’s also important to know both how to give immediate care for a recent injury and how to treat a long-term condition.

1

Assessing the Injury

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    Learn the signs of injury. Sometimes, when a dog has been injured, you’ll be able to see it right away. Other times, the injury will be harder to detect. Make sure to take note of the following signs of injury:[1]

    • Limping or other changes in walking or movement
    • Swelling
    • Avoidance of touch in certain areas, or barking or whining when touched in a certain spot
    • Unexplained and unusual warmth in a certain area
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    Protect yourself. Even a dog which is normally kind and docile is more likely to behave in a hostile way if injured. If you suspect a dog is injured, always take care not to be bitten or otherwise injured.[2]

    • To the extent that you are able, avoid the dog’s face and mouth.
    • While your first impulse may be to comfort the animal, do not hug or squeeze it.
    • Approach the dog slowly and calmly, to avoid frightening it any more than it may be already.
    • Covering the dog’s head gently with a towel or other piece of fabric can sometimes lessen its anxiety during examination.[3]
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    Muzzle the dog if necessary. If an injured dog attempts to bite you or shows signs of hostility, you may need to cover its mouth to avoid bites.[4]

    • If you already have a muzzle for your dog, carefully put it on him or her.
    • If not, you can wrap the dog’s mouth using a towel, stockings, a roll of gauze, or any similar strip of fabric. Wrap it over the dog’s snout and under its chin, being careful not to cover its nose or obstruct its breathing.
    • Never muzzle a dog that is vomiting. This can cause it to choke. Never muzzle a dog with chest injuries or a short-snouted dog such as a pug or bulldog.[5]
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    Examine the dog slowly and carefully. Look the dog over to determine where and how it is injured, being as careful as you can not to startle or further hurt it.[6]

    • Speak gently and calmly to the dog as you examine to help it stay calm.[7]
    • Stop the examination if the dog becomes obviously agitated.
    • If the dog has a cut or similar wound, you may need to clip away some of the dog’s fur to get a clear look at how bad it is. Spreading a little petroleum jelly over the wound can prevent hair clippings from getting stuck in it. [8]
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    Call a vet immediately if emergency care is needed. Some injuries are minor and can, if necessary, wait to be treated by your regular vet. Life threatening injuries, however, require immediate care, and if your vet isn’t available, you’ll need to contact an emergency veterinary clinic. Get emergency care for the following:[9]

    • Profuse or unstoppable bleeding
    • Loss of consciousness
    • Inability to stand
    • Difficulty breathing or rapid breathing
    • Paralysis
    • Note that if the injured dog is not yours, and you bring it to a vet, you may be responsible for any costs related to its care.[10]

2

Giving First Aid

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    Perform CPR if needed. If a dog is not breathing, you may need to perform CPR. Close the dog’s mouth and place your lips over its nose. Give three to four strong breaths.[11]

    • If the dog does not start breathing on its own, continue to give it 10 to 12 breaths per minute.
    • If you can’t detect a heart beat, lay the dog on its side and compress its chest with your hands. Give five compressions per breath.
    • Once a dog starts breathing on its own, stop CPR.
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    Move the dog carefully. There is a good chance you will need to move the injured dog, whether you are bringing it home, taking it to a vet, or just trying to get it out of a busy street. An injured dog must be moved gently and with great care.

    • If you are able to, splint, bandage or otherwise stabilize wounded areas before moving the dog to reduce the risk of further harm.[12]
    • Confine the dog while moving it so it can’t hurt itself more. If possible, use a pet carrier, but if you don’t have one, punch some holes in a box.
    • Larger dogs can be moved using a makeshift stretcher. You can use a board, a door, a rug, or a large blanket, carried by at least two people.
  3. 3

    Stop any bleeding. If the dog is bleeding from its injury, press down firmly on the injured area with your fingers and palm and apply a firm but not tight bandage. Gauze or a washcloth or towel will often do the trick.[13]

    • If the bandage becomes soaked through with blood, don’t remove it. Place additional materials on top.
  4. 4

    Apply a tourniquet if necessary. If a dog has an injury on it’s leg or tail that will not stop bleeding, and is gushing blood in a rhythmic way, it may have a damaged artery. You may need to apply a tourniquet to save its life.[14]

    • Wrap the limb in a bandana or other strip of cloth, between the wound and the heart, tightly enough that no blood can pass through.
    • Every 15 minutes, loosen the tourniquet so blood can pass through for about 10 seconds. If you don’t, the dog may lose the limb.
    • Always seek immediate emergency care for a wound of this nature..
  5. 5

    Clean and treat lacerations. If the dog has any lacerations that aren’t bleeding, clean them with an antiseptic solution, such as hydrogen peroxide, and dry them. [15]

    • If you don’t have an antiseptic solution, warm water with a little salt will do.
    • Pat the area dry with some sterile gauze. You can apply some ointment if its not an area the dog can lick.
    • Keep an eye on the injury in case of infection and make sure to keep it clean for several days.
  6. 6

    Use a cold compress. For bruising or tenderness, you can give your dog some immediate relief using a cold compress. Gently place something frozen, such as a bag of frozen peas, on the injured area.[16]

    • Cool the affected area for 10 to 15 minutes, then remove the compress. You can reapply as often as every two hours if it seems to be helping.
  7. 7

    Seek veterinary care. Even for what seems like a minor injury, it is a good idea to seek professional care. You may not be able to detect some injuries, such as those that are internal.[17]

    • For non-emergencies, call your vet and explain the situation. The vet’s office will either make an appointment for you soon or refer you to emergency care if they deem it necessary.
    • For serious bleeding or other major injuries, search online for an emergency vet clinic near you and take your dog immediately.

3

Treating Long-Term Injuries

  1. 1

    Give the dog medications. Some injuries last a long time, sometimes even for the rest of the dog’s life. Treating these injuries requires patience and consistency. To begin with, give your dog any medicine your vet prescribes, following all instructions precisely.[18]

    • There are variety of medications available for treating the pain that may result from an injury, from anti-inflammatory medications to opioids and more.[19] Talk to your vet about the benefits and possible side effects of any medications he or she recommends.
  2. 2

    Make dietary changes. Changing what your dog eats can also be helpful in treating injuries. For injuries that have resulted from weakened tissue, a high-quality, meat-based diet is best.[20]

    • There are also a number of supplements, foods, and dog treats formulated especially for helping dogs with joint injuries.[21]
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    Use splints and braces as appropriate. If your dog has sustained an injury that makes it difficult to walk or stand, it may benefit from a splint, brace, or cart. There are number of such products available for both short and long-term use.[22]

    • Your vet will be able to help you select the most appropriate option for your dog.
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    Try gentle massage. Some dogs will benefit from a gentle massage of the injured area, once it is no longer too sensitive. Lightly rub affected areas.[23]

    • If the dog exhibits any sign of discomfort, discontinue this immediately. This should be a pleasant experience for your dog, not a painful one.
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    Keep exercise moderate. An injured dog should not overly exert itself, as this may result in further injury/re-injury of the damaged area. Make sure the dog doesn’t, for example, walk or run for too long on an injured leg.

    • Total lack of exercise isn’t a good idea either. This can result in a dog becoming overweight, which can produce its own problems, especially for dogs that have joint injuries.[24]
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      Try herbal remedies. There are a number of herbal remedies that some people have found helpful in soothing the pain of an injured dog. Although these are not medically proven, you may wish to try the following:[25]

      • Boswellia, bupleurum, cayenne, ginger, turmeric, and yucca have all been used to relieve joint pain in both people and animals. They can be applied in compresses.
      • Hot compresses with these herbs, applied for 10 to15 minute intervals every two to four hours may help relieve your dog’s pain.
      • A cool compress with peppermint can have an immediate soothing effect.

      referece: https://www.wikihow.com/Take-Care-of-an-Injured-Dog

How to Tell if a Dog Is in Pain

Dogs feel pain every bit as much as people do, but most dogs have evolved to hide signs of pain because it could make them vulnerable to attack by rival dogs. Some dogs will plainly communicate that they are in pain, others can be very stoic and make that determination difficult.[1] Many times dogs will hide their pain, if possible, as a natural survival mechanism. Even so, there are many ways of determining if your dog is in pain. The sooner you can make this determination, the sooner you can seek help. This can help to keep minor problems from turning into major ones.

Part1

Looking for Bodily Changes

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    Watch for limping. One of the most obvious signs of pain is limping. Limping occurs when it hurts to put weight on a leg.[2]

    • If a leg is causing pain, they are less likely to use it, and sometimes may rely on the other three legs.
    • Dogs in pain will also typically move around less.[3]
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    Keep an eye out for other mobility issues. Aside from limping, you may see other mobility changes. For example your dog may have trouble getting up or down. It might also move around more slowly than usual, or show a reluctance to do certain activities.[4]

    • Hesitance to go up or down stairs, run, or jump can be a sign of pain.
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    Observe changes in posture. Note the position that your dog holds its head or tail. Any change from normal posture, such as a hanging or tucked tail in a dog that normally has an active tail, can be evidence of pain.[5]

    • If your dog is holding a leg differently than it normally does, it could be a sign that it is in pain.
    • Pain may also cause your dog to stand with its back arched or to be very stiff when standing or moving.
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    Take note of your dog’s breathing. If your dog is in pain, you may see an increase in their respiratory rate or heavy panting.[6]

    • A dog that pants persistently, especially in cool weather, may be in pain.
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    Check your dog’s eyes. Your dog’s eyes can tell you a lot about any pain it might be experiencing. If there is pain in the eye area, you may see squinting, redness, cloudiness, or a discharge.[7]

    • Your dog also may be rubbing at the area that hurts. If your dog rubs around its eyes frequently, this could be a sign of discomfort in this area.
    • The eyes can also give you a clue about pain in other areas. Squinting can be a sign of pain in the eye area, but some dogs will also squint when they are experiencing pain elsewhere.
    • Dilated pupils can also be a sign that your dog is in pain.[8]

Part2

Looking for Behavioral changes

  1. 1

    Beware of biting. Pain can change a dog’s behavior. Even a friendly dog in great pain will be more likely to bite.[9]

    • Even a dog that has never bitten before may bite when approached if it is experiencing significant pain.
    • A dog in pain may also bite if you touch or move a painful area.[10] The natural response, when a painful area is touched, is to turn toward that area. The dog may try to bite out of instinct.
    • You may first see warning signs such as growling. A dog on the verge of biting may pin its ears back or show its teeth. This is a natural protection mechanism that a dog may use to try to prevent further pain.[11]
  2. 2

    Monitor your dog’s eating. A dog in pain may decrease its food consumption. If your dog suddenly has a decreased appetite, this may be a sign of pain.[12]

    • A dog with mouth pain may also drop food when it eats.[13]
  3. 3

    Watch for signs of restlessness. A dog in pain may experience restlessness or an inability to get comfortable. Your dog may show this by pacing, repeatedly readjusting its position, or getting up and down frequently.[14]
  4. 4

    Notice sleep changes. A dog in pain may experience changes in its normal sleep schedule. A dog in pain may either sleep more than usual,[15] or have difficulty sleeping.[16]
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    5

    Listen for changes in the dog’s vocalization. Unusual vocalizations including moaning, groaning, whimpering, yipping, and even growling can all be signs of pain.[17]

    • These sounds may be associated with particular movements, such as when first getting up. That can help to give you a clue about the nature of the pain.[18]
    • A dog that is normally vocal may also suddenly become quiet.[19]
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    6

    Look for avoidance behaviors. Avoidance behaviors, such as hiding or shying away from contact with people or other animals are common when a dog is in pain.[20]These behaviors are efforts to avoid potentially painful situations.

    • If your dog moves its head away when you try to pet it or makes other moves to avoid touch, this can be a sign it is in pain. Take note of such behaviors if your dog normally likes being touched.
    • These behaviors can go along with a dog being more withdrawn and less interactive than normal.
    • You may also notice an attitude of depression or mental dullness if your dog is experiencing pain.[21]
    • Note that some dogs may seek more attention, rather than avoiding it, if they are in pain.[22] You should take note of either avoidance or unusually high levels of attention-seeking behaviors.
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    Pay attention to your dog’s potty habits. Being aware of your dog’s normal bathroom habits can help you recognize many different problems.

    • When a dog is in pain you may notice that it exhibits a different posture when it urinates or defecates. For example, a male dog that normally lifts his leg to urinate might not.
    • You may also see a change in how often your dog needs to do its business. Or, your dog may have accidents if it is painful for them to get to the area where they usually go.
    • Pain can also change the consistency of a dog’s stool, due to the related stress. It can also lead to constipation.[23]

    reference: https://www.wikihow.com/Tell-if-a-Dog-Is-in-Pain

How to Take Care of an Injured Stray Puppy

So you’ve found a stray puppy and you notice that it’s injured. You wonder what you should do next. Caring for an injured dog is a delicate process, but seeing the puppy return to good health is always worth it. Take care of an injured puppy by assessing its injuries, taking it to a vet for medical care, and then providing it with care at your home while you look for its owner.

Part1

Assessing the Puppy’s Injuries

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    Stay at a safe distance at first.[1] Before you approach a stray puppy, make sure the animal does not pose a threat to you.[2] It is best to keep a safe distance from the animal while you try to figure out how serious its injuries are and what kind of help it needs.

    • If you get too close to the puppy, it might bite you, especially if it is frightened or in a lot of pain.[3]
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    Use caution when approaching the injured puppy. If the puppy does not seem aggressive or dangerous, speak calmly and move slowly as you get close to the puppy.[4] Sudden movements might spook the animal.

    • If you have some kind of food or dog treats available to you, try to show the pup that you mean no harm to it by offering up the treats or food as a gift.[5]
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    Consider muzzling the puppy if it seems aggressive or scared. While this might not be necessary, some puppies will snap or bite if they feel scared or threatened. You can gently and carefully put a muzzle over its snout to keep it from biting you while you help it. Only try this if you feel it is necessary for you to stay safe. This only works for a long-snouted dog and won’t work for a flat-faced breed like a pug.

    • Be sure that the puppy is not vomiting before trying to muzzle it; if it vomits with a muzzle on it could choke.
    • You can use a strip of towel, gauze, a knee high sock, or panty hose to gently tie the dog’s muzzle shut.[6]
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    Determine how badly the puppy is injured. Some injuries require immediate emergency care, and other injuries are less severe and you can care for them yourself. While there may be internal injuries that you can’t see, you can try to evaluate the situation and determine what you should do next based on how the puppy looks and acts.

    • If you see lots of blood, or if the puppy is actively losing lots of blood, it might be an emergency situation. A puppy that simply has a skin condition such as mange will still need medical care, but it may not be an emergency.
    • A puppy that is easily moving around is less severely injured than if it is lying on the ground whimpering. Try to figure out if the animal can or should walk, or if it needs to be carried.
  5. 5

    Administer first aid if you can. If there is a broken bone or an open wound and you have a first aid kit, consider trying to stabilize the injury with a homemade splint, gauze pads or wrappings until you can get to the vet.[7] If you don’t have a first aid kit, you can use your own clean shirt, a towel, a blanket, or anything else that is clean and handy.

    • Check out this helpful wikiHow article for more information on splinting a dog’s leg.
    • Use a clean rag or cloth to apply pressure to any bleeding, open wound. This will help to stop the bleeding until you can get help from a vet.
  6. 6

    Move the puppy into your car. If the dog can walk, lead it to your car and place it into the back seat. If the dog’s injuries are too severe, you will need to pick up the dog. In this case, try to wrap the puppy in a towel, blanket, or shirt before you pick it up and be sure to keep your face away from its mouth to protect you from bites. Move quickly and carefully, and try not to move the dog too much because you could make its injuries worse.[8]

    • The dog might be frightened while you move it, so speak in a calm, soothing voice to reassure it.
    • If it’s a small puppy, consider placing it in a cardboard box or pet carrier. This can help keep it safe while you drive. Otherwise, ask someone to come with you and have them hold the puppy wrapped in a towel or blanket.
  7. 7

    Call the emergency veterinary clinic. This will allow you to speak to a professional about the dog’s injuries and to get advice on how to get the puppy to the clinic for treatment. This will also ensure that the clinic is ready for you when you arrive with the injured puppy.[9]

    • Try to describe the dog’s size in pounds, approximate age if you can guess, and what you think its injuries might be. For instance, the puppy may have been hit by a car, attacked by a bigger dog, or may seem to have mange or a severe case of flea or tick infestation.
  8. 8

    Find someone else who can help if you can’t take the puppy to the vet. If you cannot afford to take the injured puppy to the vet, try calling your local animal control or animal welfare department. These groups can usually help, or direct you to other groups who can. You can call them directly, or call your local police department’s non-emergency number for more information.

    • This is usually easiest during business hours on weekdays, but don’t give up if you can’t get ahold of someone. If you live in a major city, search online for rescue groups. If the puppy looks to be a particular breed (or a mix containing a particular breed), search online for breed-specific rescue groups in your city or state (for instance, the Boxer Rescue of Oklahoma).
    • You can also try using Facebook or other social media outlets to find help for the injured puppy. Many cities have pet lost and found groups or animal rescue groups, and members are often willing to help rescue injured dogs or even pitch in for veterinary bills. Search Facebook for “dog rescue” and the name of your city. If you have a big social network, share a picture of the puppy and a plea for help, and ask your friends to share your post.

Part2

Getting Medical Attention for the Puppy

  1. 1

    Take the injured puppy to an emergency veterinary clinic. You should be aware that when you take the puppy to the clinic, you will have to pay for its treatment.[10] If the dog has extensive injuries, the bill might be quite high. However, if the dog has moderate to severe injuries, veterinary aid is a necessary part of caring for the dog.
  2. 2

    Tell the emergency vet that this dog is a stray. Tell the vet that you do not know the puppy’s age or medical history, how long it has been a stray, the last time it ate or drank, or the last time it received any care for its injuries. This will let the vet know that they need to make a complete examination of the dog for its overall health and wellbeing, in addition to caring for the puppy’s injuries. In addition to assessing the pup’s injuries, the vet will probably test for:[11]

    • Parvovirus
    • Ringworm fungus
    • Bacterial Dermatitis
    • Mange
    • Internal parasites, such as worms
    • Ticks and fleas
    • Ear mites
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    Consider signing over your rights to the puppy in exchange for free service.Some veterinary clinics will provide free services to stray animals, but in order to receive these services, you are expected to give up all rights and knowledge of the animal you’ve found.[12] This means that you cannot wait with the animal while it is being treated, or call the veterinary office for updates.

    • If you do not have the funds to care for the dog, or if you are not attached to the pup, this might be a good option if it is available to you.
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    Let the vet do their job. In an event where you’re seeing an injured animal in pain, it is easy to forget that the vet is specially trained to handle these situations. The vet does not need your questions, advice, or help, and offering these things will only slow the vet down and make it take longer for the dog to receive necessary treatment.

    • In the event of serious injury, the vet might suggest euthanasia.[13] Be sure to listen to what they have to say, ask for alternative treatment plans, and consider the level of discomfort the dog is experiencing and it’s likelihood of recovery.[14]When in doubt trust your vet’s recommendations.

Part3

Taking Care of the Puppy at Your Home

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    Treat any minor wounds or skin abrasions. The vet may recommend applying a certain medicated ointment or administering oral medications depending on the puppy’s injury. Be sure to follow any directions that the vet gives, and don’t miss any doses.

    • Some medications like antibiotics or skin creams have to be administered even after the symptoms of illness or injury have passed. Be sure to use the full course of medication, and don’t skip any doses.
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    Give the puppy a warm bath, if it is safe to do so. If you are going to try to nurse the puppy back to health, you want to be sure it is clean before bringing it into your home.

    • You can’t use a flea or tick shampoo on a puppy younger than 12 weeks or so, but some veterinarians recommend using liquid dish soap such as blue Dawn to remove dirt and grease from the puppy’s fur. If the puppy has ticks, pull them off at the head using a pair of tweezers and flush them down the toilet or smash them before discarding.
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    Give the puppy somewhere warm to sleep. Puppies that are six weeks or less need lots of warmth, since they are used to cuddling up with their mother and littermates.

    • A pet crate with a few towels or baby blankets inside will serve as a warm place for him or her to get some rest while recovering from their injuries.
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    Give the puppy plenty of food and water as it recovers. Puppies’ diets vary based on their age, so it is important to ask the vet for an estimate on how old the puppy might be and what the vet recommends for it to eat.

    • A very young puppy will need to be bottle fed using a special puppy formula, but puppies can eat dry puppy food starting at around five weeks of age. You can get the proper food at your local pet store.
    • Ask the vet if he or she recommends a special diet while the puppy recovers. Sometimes a critically ill or injured dog will need a critical care diet, which is easier to digest and more calorie-dense for a dog who has a lower appetite due to illness.[15]
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    Feed your puppy according to its age and size. For example, a seven week old, seven pound puppy will need to eat about half a cup of dry puppy food three times a day.

    • Always have a bowl of clean, cool water available for your puppy.

Part4

Trying to Find the Owner

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    Look for a microchip.[16] After the puppy has been treated for its injuries, have the vet scan it for a microchip to see if it has an owner. It is possible that the puppy managed to escape from its home and that its owner is looking for it.

    • If the dog does have a microchip, make sure that you contact the owner. Sometimes the vet will offer to board the puppy until its owner can pick it up.
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    Take the dog to a trusted animal shelter. If the puppy has no tags, nor a microchip, and you are unable to keep it, take it to a local animal shelter. Taking a stray animal to the shelter is still the quickest way to reunite a lost pet with its owner.[17]
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    Post fliers of the puppy. If you choose to keep the puppy while you search for its owner, post fliers of the dog along with your contact information in heavily trafficked areas of your town. These fliers might help to reunite the owner with the puppy. Here are some places you might post fliers:[18]

    • Grocery Stores
    • Veterinarian Offices
    • Humane Society
    • Local Animal Shelters
    • Telephone poles at busy intersections
    • College Campuses
    • Social media sites, like Facebook or Nextdoor
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    Verify the owner. If someone contacts you stating that they are the owner of the puppy, ask questions to make sure this is true. You might even ask for proof of ownership, such as pictures of the pup, the dog’s ID tags, vet records, or an adoption contract.[19] You should also offer to personally deliver the puppy to the owner’s home so that you can make sure that the pup is well cared for and lives in a loving home.
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    Adopt the pup. If you are unable to locate the owner of the puppy, you may choose to adopt the dog. In order to adopt the puppy as your own, you need to check the laws for dog ownership in your city or state.[20] [Image:Take Care of an Injured Stray Puppy Step 8.jpg|center]]

    • In some areas, you will need to contact the animal control agency or the humane society to report finding the animal, prove that you’ve made a reasonable attempt to find the owner of the dog, and demonstrate that you want to adopt the puppy.
    • You will need to get the puppy vaccinated, licensed, and microchipped. You should also get a collar with ID tags for the puppy.[21][

    reference: https://www.wikihow.com/Take-Care-of-an-Injured-Stray-Puppy

How to Stop a Dog’s Quick from Bleeding

The quick is the tender part inside a dog’s nail that contains nerves and blood vessels. If you cut the quick, your dog will yelp and, because of the blood vessels inside the quick, begin to bleed. If that happens, don’t panic. There are four primary options for stopping a bleeding quick: using a styptic pencil, using a bar of soap, using potassium permanganate, or, in emergencies, taking the dog to your vet.[1] The following offers instructions for how to proceed with each.

1

Using a Styptic Pencil

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    Gather supplies. If you’re using a styptic pencil, you’ll need it and a bit of water to moisten it with.

    • Styptic pencils are relatively easy to obtain and contain an astringent that stimulates blood vessel contraction, which encourages bleeding to stop.[2]
    • Styptic pencils are available from most pharmacies.
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    Remain calm. Hopefully you’ve anticipated this scenario, and, if you happen to cut the quick, you can calmly reach the materials you gathered beforehand.

    • The blood loss from a bleeding quick is not dangerous to a healthy dog.[3] The bleeding nail can, however, look a bit alarming, especially if the dog is scrambling around and spreading blood over the floor. Know that the dog is in no danger, but act quickly to minimize its discomfort.
    • Remember that remaining calm is important for you but also for your dog. The quick is tender and full of nerves, so having it clipped will be painful to your dog and it will be looking to you for cues about how to react. If you get panicked or frantic, your dog likely will, too.
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    Staunch the bleeding. The quick is located in the center of the nail, and you’ll see blood seeping from this area.

    • Grab your styptic pencil and remove any packaging.
    • Expose and moisten the tip of the styptic pencil.
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    Apply the styptic pencil. Hold the bleeding toe steady and gently restrain your dog to prevent it from moving while you apply the styptic pencil.

    • Place the styptic pencil directly in contact with the bleeding toe and press firmly.
    • Keep the pencil held firmly in place for at least 2 minutes, then remove.
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    Repeat. If the bleeding hasn’t stopped, repeat the process above but hold the styptic pencil in place for 5 minutes.

    • The bleeding should stop after holding the pencil in place for five minutes. If it doesn’t phone your vet and ask whether you should bring your dog in.

Score
0 / 4

Method 1 Quiz

Why is it important to remain calm if you cut a dog’s quick?

2

Using a Bar of Soap

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    Collect your supplies. If you’re using a bar of soap, the soap is the only thing you’ll need.

    • An ordinary bar of soap, when pressed into the claw, will form a plug that covers the quick, like putting a cork in a bottle.[4] This plug generally dislodges itself several hours later and needs no further attention.
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    Maintain your calm. Ideally you’ve prepared yourself for this situation and can calmly use the materials you have ready at hand to stop the bleeding.

    • A healthy dog won’t be at risk from blood loss from a bleeding quick, but the blood can be somewhat alarming, particularly if your dog seems distressed.[5] Know that the dog is in no danger, but act quickly to minimize its discomfort.
    • Remaining calm is important to both you and your dog. If you cut the dog’s quick, the dog will likely be distressed and will look to you for cues on how to react. If you show alarm or become frantic, your dog likely will, too.
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    Hold the bleeding nail at 90 degrees to the dry soap. Gently restrain your dog to keep it still as you do this.

    • Push firmly so that the nail is embedded into the soap to a depth of approximately 3 – 4 millimeters.
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    Hold the foot still in this position for 3 – 4 minutes. This places gentle pressure on the blood vessels and stops them from bleeding.

    • Remove the toe from the soap after 3 – 4 minutes with a gentle twisting action.
    • If your dog won’t hold still, push the claw firmly into the soap and then remove the soap with a slight twist of the wrist.
  5. 5

    Repeat. If a plug doesn’t form, repeat the above process again, pressing the claw into the soap until you’re successful.

    • You’ll know a plug has successfully been formed when the soap is blocking the tip of the nail and no more blood is seeping through.
    • If the bleeding won’t stop, contact your vet.

Score
0 / 4

Method 2 Quiz

What should you do if your dog won’t hold still when you’re trying to help it?

3

Using Potassium Permanganate

  1. 1

    Get your supplies ready. If you’re using potassium permanganate, you’ll need the potassium permanganate crystals, cotton swabs, and a bit of water to moisten the swabs.

    • Potassium permanganate is a powder made up of bright purple crystals and is the preferred method of veterinarians to stop bleeding nails.[6]
    • It’s highly effective and the permanganate is a natural disinfectant.[7]
    • Potassium permanganate crystals are widely available on internet retail sites.
  2. 2

    Stay calm. Ideally you’ve anticipated this scenario and can calmly use the materials you’ve prepared to stop the bleeding.

    • The blood loss from a bleeding nail is not dangerous to a healthy dog.[8] The bleeding nail can, however, look a bit dramatic, especially if the dog scrambles around spreading blood all over the floor. Know that the dog is in no danger, but act quickly to minimize its discomfort.
    • Remember that remaining calm is important for you but also for your dog. The quick is tender and full of nerves, so having it clipped will be painful to your dog and it will be looking to you for cues on how to react. If you get panicked or frantic, your dog likely will, too.
  3. 3

    Moisten the tip of a cotton swab with water. It’s important that the swab be slightly moist so that the potassium permanganate crystals will adhere to it.[9]

    • You don’t need to soak the swab, just dampen it with a few drops of water.
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    Press the swab into the bleeding quick and hold for 30 seconds. Gently restrain your dog while you apply the swab.

    • The bleeding should stop fairly quickly.
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    Repeat. If the bleeding hasn’t stopped, repeat the above process again, this time holding the swab in place for 5 minutes.[10]

    • If after 5 minutes the bleeding still hasn’t stopped, contact your vet.

Score
0 / 4

Method 3 Quiz

Why should you have water on hand when using potassium permanganate?

4

Contacting the Vet

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    Contact your vet if the bleeding continues. In the unlikely situation that none of the methods above work to stop the bleeding, phone your veterinarian for advice.[11]

    • If the vet recommends bringing your dog in, calmly begin preparing your dog for transport.
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    Bandage the paw. Do your best to bandage the paw before transporting your dog to the vet.

    • Use a bandage from a first aid kit to put a temporary dressing over the paw to help stop the dog from hitting the sore nail and to keep the car a bit cleaner.
    • Alternatively, you can place a swab or gauze dressing over the toe and wrap a bandage around the paw to hold it in place. Put enough tension on the bandage that it grips the paw and doesn’t fall off, but don’t pull it too taut or the bandage may cut off circulation to the paw. If the bandage is too tight, your dog will seem distressed and chew at the bandage; if that happens, loosen the wrapping.
    • If you don’t have access to a first aid kit, wrap clean toilet tissue or cotton wool around the toe and apply a tight-fitting sock over the paw to hold it in place. If you have someone available to help, ask them to hold cotton wool over the nail while you’re en route to the vet.
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    Have the vet or a professional groomer trim your dog’s nails. If you find that you have difficulty trimming your dog’s nails yourself, perhaps because you’re nervous about hurting your dog or your dog has learned to fear nail trimmings, you best option may be to try having it professionally done.

    • If your dog shows noticeable distress at going to the groomer’s or to the vet’s, you might consider asking the vet or groomer to show you better strategies for trimming your dog’s nails at home.
    • If you’re able to get more comfortable trimming the nails yourself, you may be able to avoid giving your dog the extra anxiety that may be associated with going to the groomer or vet.[12]

    reference: https://www.wikihow.com/Stop-a-Dog%27s-Quick-from-Bleeding

How to Stop a Dog’s Ear from Bleeding

If you’ve ever had a dog cut the tip of its ear, you know how difficult it can be to stop the ear from bleeding. Even with pressure and towels to slow down the bleeding, once you remove the towel from his ear and he feels the tingling sense, he will shake his head and start the flow all over again. With a little bit of research, you can stop the blood flow and keep the dog from re-opening the wound.

Part1

Stopping the Dog’s Ear from Bleeding

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    Remain calm. Ears bleed a lot due to the abundance of blood vessels in the ear. In many cases, there is a lot of blood. Don’t worry. Chances are good the dog will not bleed too severely. Also, dogs feed off the emotional energy of their humans. If you are upset or panicked, your dog will get excited. Excitement raises the blood pressure, which leads to more bleeding.
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    Move the dog to a quiet location. You want to remove the dog from other sources or excitement such as other dogs or noisy people. Provide a couple of treats and get the dog to sit or lay down, so you can tend to the injury.
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    Apply pressure to the injury. Use a dry, clean paper towel, washcloth, pieces of sterile gauze, or any other clean cloth to apply direct pressure to the cut. Keep firm pressure on the cut for up to five minutes.[1]

    • At two minutes, you can gently lift the towel or cloth to see if the bleeding has slowed.
    • After five minutes of pressure, most bleeding should have slowed considerably or stopped.
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    Apply a clotting aid. If you have a commercial clotting aid—the kind you can purchase in the store—pour an ample amount of powder into the palm of one of your hands. Using a clean fingertip, apply the clotting aid to the wound using gentle pressure.[2]Repeat until the bleeding stops completely.

    • If you don’t have a clotting aid, cornstarch, flour, or baby powder will work.
    • Do not use baking soda or baking powder as they can lead to an infection in the cut.
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    Clean up the area. You can use diluted hydrogen peroxide to remove any dried blood from your dog. However, do not use this or anything else directly on the wound. That might disturb the clot and cause bleeding again.
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    Call the veterinarian. Though you can handle most small ear cuts at home, there are some situations where you should allow your vet to treat the dog. In these situations, continue to apply pressure to the wound as you transport your dog to the clinic. The ear may need sutures or other measures to stop the blood flow and ensure the ear heals properly. Seek a vet’s assistance if:[3]

    • There is profuse bleeding
    • The wound goes through the ear
    • The bleeding doesn’t stop after 10 minutes of home treatment
    • The bleeding keeps restarting
    • The wound is larger than a simple cut

Part2

Keeping the Dog from Re-Opening the Wound

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    Observe the dog in a quiet environment. Keep the dog in the quiet spot, so he can rest and you can keep a close eye on him. Make sure that the dog does not participate in any activity such as running or playing.
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    Try to keep the dog from shaking or scratching at the ear.[4] If the dog shakes its head or scratches due to sensations from the wound, he can re-open the wound and cause further bleeding.

    • Another potential complication from vigorous head shaking or scratching is the formation of an aural hematoma, which is a blood clot between the layers of the ear. This happens when a blood vessel beneath the skin and cartilage breaks and bleeds into the ear cartilage. The ear will swell like a pillow. These need to be treated by a veterinarian.[5]
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    Use an Elizabethian collar for two or three days. To minimize complications, you can use an Elizabethian collar (also known as an e-collar, cone or recovery collar) for two or three days.[6] This will prevent the dog from reaching the ear with a foot.
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    Clean the ear. You can minimize the dog’s desire to shake its head by carefully cleaning the ear and ear canal. Remove any bothersome blood or debris in the canal or inside the ear.
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    Create a head bandage. Another option is to create a head bandage for the dog. This is especially helpful if the dog keeps flapping its ears. You will need to sacrifice a stocking for this option. Cut the toe off the stocking to form a tube. Fold the ears back over the head, using a piece of gauze on the wound. Carefully slide the stocking over the head. The nose and eyes should remain open with the stocking placed just beyond the eyes.

    • Make sure the fit is snug but not too tight. You should easily be able to fit a finger under the stocking both on the head and the neck.
    • Leave the bandage on for a day, then remove it and check the ear wound. If needed, you can replace it for another day as long as it remains clean and dry.

    reference: https://www.wikihow.com/Stop-a-Dog%27s-Ear-from-Bleeding

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