1. 
   1
   Keep a look out for symptoms of bloat. The signs of bloat usually come on rapidly. These include:^[7]

   • Pacing and restlessness
   • Excessive salivation
   • Enlarged abdomen (belly)
   • Reluctance or inability to stand or walk.
   • Rapid or weak pulse
   • Pale gums
   • Retching or dry heaving without bringing anything up. The esophagus is involved in the twist so nothing can come back through the mouth.
2. 
   2
   Take your dog to a veterinarian immediately if you see the symptoms of bloat.Keep in mind that this is a medical emergency and the dog needs to be taken to the veterinarian as soon as possible if bloat is suspected. Dogs can die soon after the signs appear due to damage done to internal organs, collapse of the circulatory system, toxin buildup, and shock.

   • A dog that is brought into the veterinarian’s office is first given a physical examination and blood is checked for responses to internal organ damage. Radiographs (X-rays) are generally taken, which will show the bloated stomach along with the twist in the stomach.
   • In some cases a needle is advanced into the abdominal cavity and suction is applied to the syringe. This is done to determine if the stomach has ruptured, an unfortunate outcome in some cases of bloat.
3. 
   3
   Get bloat treated. A tube may be passed through the dog’s mouth and into the stomach to relieve the pressure of air buildup. Occasionally a tube will be placed directly through the skin and muscle into the stomach to relieve the pressure in the stomach. An intravenous (IV) line will be placed in a vein to provide medications and fluids.^[8]

   • The treatment of bloat is surgery to untwist the stomach and to suture part of the stomach to the inside of the abdomen wall to prevent it from recurring. This is called a gastropexy. If the stomach ruptured the stomach will be repaired and the internal abdomen will be flushed.
   • Dogs will be closely monitored after surgery. Generally the dog will be placed on antibiotics and pain killers before and after surgery. Depending on your veterinarian clinic and how intensive the surgery was, the dog will need to remain hospitalized for up to 7 days.
   • Sadly up to 15% of dogs with gastric dilation and volvulus do not survive surgery despite the skill of the veterinarian.^[9]

   reference: https://www.wikihow.com/Prevent-Bloating-in-Dogs

1. 
   1
   Remove anything blocking the dog’s airway. If the dog has a heartbeat, you’ll want to concentrate on breathing for the dog. Before beginning, remove any blockages from the dog’s mouth, including any vomit, blood, mucus, or foreign material.^[6]
2. 
   2
   Position the dog for artificial respiration. Pull the dog’s tongue forward. Align the head with the back, and tilt it back a little to help open the airway.
3. 
   3
   Place your mouth over the airway. If it’s a small dog, place your mouth over the dog’s nose and mouth. If it’s a large dog, place your mouth over the dog’s nostrils.

   • Hold one hand under the lower jaw to close it. Place the thumb of the same hand on top of the nose the hold the mouth shut. Alternately, you can cup both hands around the mouth (and lips if it’s a large dog). It’s important that you prevent air from escaping through the mouth.
4. 
   4
   Administer artificial respiration. Blow firmly enough into the dog’s snout to lift the dog’s chest wall. If the chest rises easily (as is likely in a small dog), stop blowing once it has gently lifted. If you continue blowing, you may damage the dog’s lungs. Then release your lips to allow the air to escape.

   • Aim for 20 – 30 breaths a minute, or one breath every 2 – 3 seconds.
5. 
   5
   Get ready to begin chest compressions. The heart pumps oxygenated blood to the organs, so if you’re giving artificial respiration but there’s no heartbeat, the oxygen can’t get where it’s needed and you’ll need to provide chest compressions as well as artificial respiration.^[7]

   • The goal is to perform chest compressions and artificial respiration in a pattern of 1 artificial breath for 10- 12 chest compressions.
6. 
   6
   Find the dog’s heart. Locate the heart by laying the dog on its side and swinging its front elbow back to the point where it meets the chest wall, which is where the heart lies.
7. 
   7
   Perform chest compressions. Lay your palm over the heart and press down gently but firmly–use enough pressure to compress the chest to one-third or one-half of its depth. The compression is a quick, rapid movement: compress-release, compress-release, repeated 10 – 12 times around every 5 seconds.

   • Give one artificial respiration breath and then repeat the cycle.
8. 
   8
   Stop periodically to assess the situation. Stop every 2 minutes and check if the dog has resumed breathing for itself. If not, continue artificial respiration until help arrives.
9. 
   9
   Perform abdominal compressions if the dog is a very large breed. A large or giant breed may benefit from abdominal compressions, which can help return blood to the heart, but these should not be done at the expense of cardiac compression.

   • To give a dog abdominal compressions, gently squash or compress the front part of the belly, where large organs such as the spleen and liver are located.
   • You can also add an “abdominal squeeze,” which can assist recirculation of blood to the heart, by slipping your left hand under the dog’s abdomen and using your right hand to “squeeze” the abdomen between your two hands. Repeat this movement once every two minutes or so–but if you have your hands full with chest compressions and artificial respiration, leave this element out.^[8]

   reference: https://www.wikihow.com/Perform-CPR-on-a-Dog

1. 
   1
   Calibrate a digital dog ear thermometer. Follow the instructions for your digital ear thermometer to calibrate it. In most cases, it will calibrate automatically. Just turn on the thermometer and wait a few seconds until it beeps.^[8]

   • Do not use a glass thermometer when taking temperature by ear. You will not receive an accurate reading.^[9]
   • There is no need to lubricate an ear thermometer.
   • You can get canine ear thermometers from your vet, a pet store, or online.
2. 
   2
   Hold your dog’s head still in your lap. If needed, lift up the dog’s ear. Pet the dog with whichever hand is not managing the thermometer. If possible, have another person hold the dog still while you take its temperature.^[10]
3. 
   3
   Insert the probe horizontally into the ear canal. Hold the probe straight as you insert it into the dog’s ear. It should be at a 90-degree angle to the dog’s head.^[11]
4. 
   4
   Hold the probe in the dog’s ear until it beeps. This may take between 1-2 minutes, depending on the brand. Try to keep the probe inside your dog’s ear for the entire duration. If your dog tries to move away or if the probe falls out, try again.^[12]
5. 
   5
   Read the temperature off the digital screen. The temperature will appear at the top of the thermometer. Normal temperature for a dog is between 99.5–102.5 °F (37.5–39.2 °C). If your dog’s temperature is above or below this, call your vet.^[13]

   • A temperature above 104 °F (40 °C) is a medical emergency. Take your dog to the vet immediately.
6. 
   6
   Stop the process if your dog whines or snaps. If your dog has an ear infection, using an ear thermometer can be painful. Stop if the dog yelps, whines, or shows other signs of pain. Similarly, if your dog reacts aggressively, stop what you are doing. Check the dog for physical symptoms of a fever instead.^[14]

1. 
   1
   Look for lethargic or depressed behavior from your dog. If your dog is not as energetic as usual, there may be something wrong. It may seem sad or depressed. It may sleep for longer than usual or refuse to play. This could be a sign of either a high or low temperature.^[15]
2. 
   2
   Watch for shivering or panting. If the dog has a fever, it may pant heavily even while resting. Alternatively, it may visibly shake or you may feel the dog shiver when you touch it.^[16]
3. 
   3
   Examine the dog’s eyes and gums for redness. If your dog’s eyes appear red and inflamed, it may be a sign of illness, such as a fever or allergy.^[17] Check its gums as well. Normal healthy gums should look light pink. A dog with a fever may have dark, red gums.^[18]
4. 
   4
   Listen for coughing from the dog. Like humans, dogs may cough when they are sick. Coughing usually indicates a respiratory infection, which could cause a fever. Take your dog to the vet.^[19]
5. 
   5
   Track its food and water intake to see if it has lost its appetite. If a dog stops eating suddenly, it’s usually a sign of a problem. A dog with a fever may lose its appetite, even if you try to encourage it to eat. Call your vet for advice.^[20]
6. 
   6
   Monitor any vomiting. If your dog vomits, withhold food for a few hours to see if it gets better. If it vomits again during this time, take your dog to the vet. The vet can perform tests to see what is causing the vomiting.^[21]
7. 
   7
   Take your dog to the vet if it displays multiple symptoms. Any 1 of these symptoms does not necessarily mean that your dog has a fever. If it’s displaying more than 1 symptom, take your dog to the vet just in case. Your dog may have a fever or another condition.^[22]

   • If your dog vomits twice in 1 day, take it to the vet regardless.

   reference: https://www.wikihow.com/Measure-a-Dog%27s-Temperature

1. 
   1
   Use a journal to record your dog’s respiratory rate. Make sure that the journal or piece of paper you use has a space for a date and time, respiratory rate number, and any other comments you might have. Record your dog’s respiratory rate every time you take it, even if you think your dog might be a little excited or hot still. Simply note your dog’s recent activity in the side bar. There are templates online for you to use as well.
2. 
   2
   Download the “Your Dog’s Heart” App. This app allows its users to count and record the resting respiratory rate of your dog. The application is free and easy to use. You can set reminders to take your pets breath rate. The app will record and chart how their respiratory rate changes overtime. You can even put in a veterinarian’s information and have results sent straight to him. If you have family members that are worried about your pet, you can even use the app to post the data to social media (e.g. Facebook or Twitter).^[4]
3. 
   3
   Make sure to share this information with your vet. Whenever you go in for your vet visit, make sure that you share your detailed respiratory rate readings with him. It is important — for better or worse — to share this information. Your vet might notice patterns in your dog’s respiratory rate fluctuations that you may not. Sometimes, these signs can be subtle indicators of heart problems.^[5]

1. 
   1
   Visit the vet if your dog’s respiratory rate exceeds 30 breaths per minute. 15 to 30 is the normal range. This could be a sign of any number of issues ranging from bacterial and viral infections to traumatic injury.^[6]
2. 
   2
   Call the vet immediately, if your dog seems to be gasping for air. Serious lung issues may present themselves in such a dramatic way. Punctured or deflated lungs can be caused by a variety of issues and will certainly affect your dog’s respiratory rate.^[7]Be sure to call your vet before you actually visit his offices, just in case your dog shouldn’t be moved. If this is the case, your vet will either advise you on what to do or will come to you.
3. 
   3
   Take your dog to the vet if it has an increased respiratory rate combined with other symptoms of illness. Coughing or nasal discharge combined with an increased breathing rate often signal issues with the lungs, which can lead to pneumonia.^[8]

reference: https://www.wikihow.com/Measure-a-Dog%27s-Respiration-Rate

1. 1
   If you can, take your dog outside to prevent a mess. Dogs aren’t often very tidy vomiters — they don’t understand what’s happening to them, so they’ll rarely get all their vomit into a single, tidy pile. This means that it’s usually easiest to simply make your dog throw up outside.

   • If this isn’t an option, grab a garbage bag or two to catch the vomit. You may also want to lay down a tarp or newspaper if you have some handy.
2. 2
   If you can, offer your dog a small meal. This isn’t essential, so you can skip this step if you don’t have food handy. However, if your dog hasn’t eaten in the last few hours, this will make it more likely to vomit by making its stomach fuller.^[6] You can use its typical dog food for this.

   • Don’t pester your dog if it doesn’t seem to want to eat. Your time is better spent by moving on.
3. 3
   Measure one milliliter (mL) of hydrogen peroxide per pound of dog weight. This converts to about two mL per kilogram. The hydrogen peroxide you want is 3%concentration. If you absolutely have to use more concentrated hydrogen peroxide, dilute it with water. If you have to use a less-concentrated hydrogen peroxide, use extra.

   • One tablespoon is approximately 15 mL. One teaspoon is approximately 5 mL.
   • Don’t give more than 45 mL (three tablespoons) at once, even if your dog weighs more than 45 pounds. This can make your dog sick.^[7]
4. 4
   Squirt the hydrogen peroxide down your dog’s throat. This can be difficult — your dog doesn’t understand the danger it’s in, so it may resist. Your best bet is to use a syringe or a turkey baster aimed at the back of the dog’s throat.^[8] Holding your dog, gently work your fingers under its lips and in to its mouth. Gently hold its head in place, aim the syringe or baster, and squirt the hydrogen peroxide all at once.

   • Do your best to get the hydrogen peroxide down, even if your dog doesn’t like it (which it probably won’t). If your vet has directed you to make your dog vomit, your dog’s health is more important than its comfort.
   • If your dog is clenching its teeth, you can sometimes get it to open if you squeeze gently on either side of its jaw near the back.
5. 5
   If you can’t get the hydrogen peroxide down, offer it in ice cream. Vets will normally recommend against feeding ice cream to dogs for nutritional reasons. However, desperate times call for desperate measures. Mix the dose of hydrogen peroxide with some vanilla ice cream and offer it to the dog in a bowl. Most dogs will eat this, as the sugary taste of the ice cream does a fairly good job of masking the soapy taste of the chemical.^[9]

   • Honey is another good choice if you don’t have any ice cream on hand.
6. 
   6
   Wait for the dog to vomit. Stay by the dog, watching it. Have it walk around with you for a minute or two to get the stomach moving, which helps speed things along.^[10]Hydrogen peroxide should irritate the stomach and cause vomiting within 15 minutes or so. Be ready — vomiting may come on quickly.

   • If your dog doesn’t vomit within 15 minutes, you can give it a second dose. If it still hasn’t vomited 15 minutes after that, call the vet or hotline again for instructions.^[11]
7. 
   7
   Take the dog to the vet. Whether or not your dog vomits, you should do this. The only exception is if your vet specifically tells you it’s not necessary. Vomiting doesn’t always clear out the entire stomach and it does nothing to remove poison that has already moved on into the intestines. These mean that a vet’s attention may sometimes be necessary to avoid danger, even if your dog seems happy when it’s done vomiting.^[12]

   • If you can, collect a small sample of the dog’s vomit to bring to the vet. Your vet may be able to identify it.
8. 
   8
   Protect yourself while cleaning up the vomit. If your dog vomited outside, cleanup may not be terribly difficult — a hose will often get the job done. However, if more hands-on work is required, be sure to take all necessary precautions. Keep in mind that whatever your dog ate may still be in its stomach contents. If this is hazardous to humans, protecting yourself is very important.

   • With this in mind, you’ll want to use thick rubber or latex gloves as you clean up the vomit. If the hazardous material is letting off fumes or the smell is overpowering, a facemask or a builder’s respirator is a very good idea.

   reference: https://www.wikihow.com/Make-a-Dog-Throw-Up

1. 1
   Watch for excessive drinking. Monitor the amount of water your dog drinks daily. If you notice any big changes in this amount, take note. Drinking too much or too little can indicate a problem that requires veterinary attention.^[11]

   • Rule out everyday reasons such as strenuous play or a hot day.
   • If you notice your dog drinking much more than normal for a consecutive week, see your vet.
2. 2
   Track your dog’s appetite. Changes in appetite, especially those that lead to weight loss or gain, can indicate illness.^[12][13]Unexpected weight loss or gain should always be met with a trip to the vet.

   • In the short term, loss of appetite for your dog can be a sign of fever, pain, or stress, as well as many other possible reasons.
   • If the loss of appetite is combined with any other noticeable symptoms, you should see a vet immediately.^[14]
3. 3
   Pay special attention to digestive upsets. Vomiting or diarrhea is a reason for concern with your dog.^[15] These symptoms can be a sign of anything from swallowing a sharp object to ulcers to parasites.^[16]

   • Single instances of vomiting or diarrhea are not necessarily a cause for concern.
   • Repeated instances,especially lasting more than twenty-four hours,require a vet.^[17]
   • Blood, in either vomit or diarrhea, can be a serious symptom and needs treatment as soon as possible.^[18]

1. 1
   Examine your pet’s energy levels.^[19] Prolonged lethargy is a strong sign that your pooch isn’t feeling well.^[20] While you don’t need to worry about a tired dog after active play, keep an eye out for other signs such as decreased exercise tolerance or general weakness combined with the lethargy.^[21]

   • Unusually low energy levels, over two or three days should be checked with a vet.
   • Lethargy, in combination with other symptoms, also requires the attention of your vet.^[22]
   • Extremely high levels of energy can also be a problem that needs medical attention.
2. 2
   Pay attention to scratching. All dogs scratch fairly regularly. However, excessive scratching can be a sign of a health problem. If the scratching is excessive, don’t ignore it. Look for these possible causes or ask your veterinarian more about them:

   • Scratching is a typical sign of fleas, ticks, or mange mites.^[23]
   • Scratching can also mean endocrine or hormonal problems in your dog.^[24]
   • Dogs can also suffer from allergies just like humans, which can lead to itching.^[25]
   • Take your dog to the vet.
     • Most vets will examine the animal, try to reach a diagnosis or suggest tests to reach a diagnosis.
     • After testing, your vet can prescribe a course of treatment to correct the underlying problem or at least make the dog more comfortable.
3. 3
   Look for difficulty rising or mobility issues. If your dog starts showing signs of stiffness, manifested through difficulty getting up or climbing stairs, then you should have your pet examined. ^[26]

   • This symptom can be a result of anything from hip dysplasia to arthritis to Lyme disease from tick-borne bacteria.
   • The earlier Lyme disease is treated, the better the prognosis, so see a vet quickly if you notice this symptom, especially in younger dogs.
4. 4
   Watch for labored breathing. Labored breathing can indicate a problem with your dog’s respiratory system. Identifying the cause can be difficult by yourself. Bring your dog to a vet to accurately diagnose any problems with your dog’s breathing.^[27]

   • Labored breathing requires urgent attention.
   • If your dog’s gums have a bluish tint, seek immediate care.
5. 5
   Keep track of accidents. House-trained pets rarely start having accidents unless there is a problem. If your dog inexplicably begins having indoor accidents, then your vet will likely want to schedule some tests to find out the problem.^[28]

   • Having accidents for a few days in a row is a good indication of a problem.
6. 
   6
   Watch for major changes in urination. Changes in the frequency of your dog’s urination can be an indication of a problem. Check also for any blood or strange discolorations in your dog’s urine.^[29] If you find anything unusual about your dog’s urine or urination habits, contact your veterinarian.^[30]

   • Either an increase or decrease in urination can be an indication of an illness.
   • Problems with urination will may involve the kidneys or bladder stones.

1. 
   1
   Watch for non-productive retching. If your dog is trying to vomit, and cannot, this can be associated with the life-threatening condition, bloat. Get your dog to the vet immediately in order to ensure the best outcome.^[31]
2. 
   2
   Look for any weakness. If your dog is having trouble standing, is swaying, or has collapsed then you must seek care quickly. Even if your dog is tired, it will be able to stand and move. Collapsing is a definite sign that your dog needs medical attention. ^[32]
3. 
   3
   Monitor for non-productive urination. If your dog is trying to urinate, but is unable to do so, take it to the veterinarian quickly. Inability to urinate indicates some form of blockage and can be quite serious.^[33]

reference: https://www.wikihow.com/Know-When-Your-Dog-is-Sick

1. 
   1
   Don’t feed your dog for 24 hours. He may still be feeling nauseous and chances are that any food he eats may be vomited back. The repeated contraction of the stomach muscles when the dog vomits can cause inflammation of the stomach lining. This will make him more likely to vomit again, creating a vicious cycle.^[8]

   • Avoiding food for the day allows the nausea to disperse and stops the cycle of vomiting. Do however, allow the dog access to drinking water. If he drinks and vomits, seek veterinary attention.
2. 
   2
   Supervise water drinking. Allow him to drink small amounts of water regularly (like humans sipping water when sick). For a small dog, say under 10 kg, offer an egg cup full of water every half an hour. If he drinks this without vomiting, then after two hours you can allow him free, unrestricted access to water. If he vomits even this small amount back then seek veterinary attention. (A larger dog, say a Labrador size, is allowed half a cup of water every half an hour).^[9]

   • If the has vomited recently, he may wish to get the nasty taste out of his mouth. However, if he goes to a large water bowl and drains the entire volume of water, that water will hit his sensitive stomach and he’s likely to vomit the water back up.
3. 
   3
   Introduce bland food. When the 24 hours of no food is up, give your dog a small meal of bland food. This should only be a fraction of his usual amount, to see if he eats and test out if the food stays down. As a general rule bland foods are low fat, white meat such as chicken, turkey, rabbit, cod, or coley and an easy to digest carbohydrate such as white rice, pasta, or boiled mashed potato (without the addition of dairy products).^[10]

   • Avoid high fat foods such as dairy produce, oily fish, or rich protein sources such as red meat. Your veterinarian can also supply ready-made diets that are proven to speed recovery time from stomach upsets. These include Hills ID, and Purina EN.
4. 
   4
   Transition back to your dog’s normal diet. If everything goes well and your dog doesn’t throw up again after 24 hours of bland food, transition him back to his regular diet. Avoid sudden changes of food, so mix ⅓ of his regular food with ⅔ bland diet on day 1, then half on day 2, then ⅔ regular and ⅓ bland on day 3, and day 4 entirely back onto his regular food.^[11]

   • It is best to feed little and often, so as not to overload his stomach. Try dividing his daily food allowance into four portions and space those four meals out over the day: breakfast, lunch, tea, and supper.
5. 
   5
   Watch for signs that you should take your dog to the veterinarian. Throwing up can be a general sign of ill health, and should not be ignored if your dog vomits regularly. A dog that cannot keep fluids down may become dehydrated which is dangerous in itself and requires medical attention. Here are some signs that your dog should get medical attention:^[12]

   • Not keeping fluids down: If the dog drinks water but is unable to keep it down, and this persists for more than one to two hours.
   • If the dog has other problems such as diarrhea (which means he is losing fluid from his back end as well as through vomiting)
   • Persistent vomiting for more than four hours
   • Blood in the vomit
   • The dog is on medication such as a painkiller from the NSAID group (such as Metacam, Onsior, or Rimadyl)
   • The dog is dehydrated – lift his scruff and let it go. If it takes over 1 – 2 seconds to flatten back down, the dog is dehydrated.
   • The dog has other health problems such as kidney disease or diabetes.
   • Lacking in energy or listless.
   • The dog vomits regularly (daily) and is losing weight.

   reference: https://www.wikihow.com/Keep-a-Dog-From-Throwing-Up

1. 
   1
   Muzzle the dog. Whether the dog seems aggressive or not, you need to muzzle itbefore moving it or examining it for injuries. Even a gentle, mild-tempered dog will bite when it is scared or in pain. If you don’t have a muzzle available, lay a piece of cloth across the dog’s nose, as close to the eyes as possible. Next, wrap both ends of the cloth around the dog’s nose and tie the ends in a knot underneath its jaw. Finally, tie the loose ends of the cloth behind the dog’s neck.

   • Some things you can use for a muzzle include a leash, sock, piece of gauze, neck tie, or strip of sheet.^[6]
   • If the dog is vomiting, do not muzzle it. This could cause it to choke.^[7]
2. 
   2
   Look for a back injury. Before moving the dog in any way, look to see if it appears to have a back injury. If it does, do not attempt to move it. Instead, call animal control or a veterinarian to assist you.^[8] Look for the following to identify a possible back injury:

   • Observe whether or not the dog is willing and able to turn or raise its head. If it isn’t, it might have a back injury.
   • Additionally, look for any areas of visible trauma around the back or spine, like bruises or discoloration. If the spine looks abnormally aligned, curving upward for instance, this can also indicate a back injury.
   • Finally, if the dog yelps or moans when its back or neck is touched, there is a good chance it has a back injury.^[9]
3. 
   3
   Shift the dog onto a blanket, coat, or tarp. If you feel confident the dog does not have a back injury, find a blanket, tarp, coat, or shirt you can place the dog on to carry it. Lay the item flat on the ground behind the dog’s back. Using slow, careful movements, shift or slide the dog back onto the blanket, tarp, or coat.

   • If there are other people at the scene, get someone to help you shift the dog onto the blanket.^[10]
4. 
   4
   Move the dog to a safe place. Once you have the dog securely on the blanket, get someone to help you lift the dog. You’ll want to move the dog as little as possible, so if you can, go ahead and place the dog in the back seat of your car. If you cannot place it in your car, find a soft piece of ground where you can administer first aid.^[11]

   • If you are alone at the accident, you can try pulling the dog out of the street once you have it on the blanket. Make sure you can do this without aggravating any current injuries or creating any new cuts or abrasions.

1. 
   1
   Check to see if the dog is breathing. As soon as the dog is moved to safety, check to see if it is breathing. To do so, watch its chest to see if it is rising and falling. If there is no movement, it is not breathing and you should perform artificial respiration, which is where you assist the dog in breathing.^[12]

   • You may also need to perform artificial respiration if the dog has labored breathing, is unconscious, or shows other signs of respiratory suppression, like blue or pale-colored gums, or a staring expression.^[13]
2. 
   2
   Lay the dog on its side. To perform artificial respiration, first lay the dog on its side on a flat surface, pulling the neck and head forward (as long as the dog has no neck or back injuries).^[14]
3. 
   3
   Clear any debris from inside the dog’s mouth. Next, open the dog’s mouth and pull its tongue forward with your fingers. Clear any debris from the dog’s mouth that may be preventing it from breathing or causing it to choke. Once you have removed any debris, close the dog’s mouth.

   • You may need to remove the muzzle for this step. Be careful even if the dog is unconscious, as it could wake up at any moment. Put the muzzle back on once you have cleared its mouth of debris.^[15]
4. 
   4
   Breath into the dog’s nose. After reapplying the muzzle, inhale and place your mouth over the dog’s nose, forming an airtight seal around it. Exhale into the dog’s nose.^[16] Exhale just enough so that the chest expands. You will have to exhale harder for larger dogs and more gently for smaller dogs. Lift the dog’s chin while you are doing this so its throat is straight.^[17]
5. 
   5
   Remove your mouth. Remove your mouth from the dog’s nose after you exhale and allow the dog’s chest to deflate.^[18]
6. 
   6
   Check for a pulse. After the dog’s chest deflates, check to see if it has a pulse. The dog’s heart can still be beating even if it is not breathing. If you cannot find a pulse, you should start chest compressions immediately.^[19]

   • Check for a pulse by placing two fingers on the inside of the dog’s rear thigh.^[20]
7. 
   7
   Start chest compressions if there is no heart beat. If there is another person present, have them help you resuscitate the dog—one of you will perform chest compressions while the other continues artificial respiration. Have one person perform three chest compressions after every time you exhale into the dog’s nose. If you are alone, do five chest compressions for every breath. Use the following procedures to perform chest compressions:

   • For small dogs (30 pounds or less): Lay the dog on its side on a flat surface. Place one hand on top of the other, interlocking your fingers. Place the palm of the bottom hand on the rib cage, over the dog’s heart. Press down, compressing the chest about one inch. Squeeze and release this hold steadily at a rate of 80 to 100 compressions per minute.
   • For large dogs (over 30 pounds): Lay the dog on its side on a flat surface. Place one hand on top of the other, interlocking your fingers. Place the bottom hand over the widest part of the dog’s rib cage (not necessarily over the heart). Push down on the rib cage, keeping your arms straight. Compress the chest about one quarter of its width. Continue to squeeze and release rhythmically at a rate of around 80 compressions per minute.^[21]
8. 
   8
   Repeat this process. You may need to repeat this process 15 to 20 times per minute (or one breath every three seconds, on average) to get the dog breathing normally. When the dog starts to fight the process or you notice its gums are returning to their normal color, the dog’s breathing is improving and you can stop artificial respiration.^[22]

1. 
   1
   Check the dog for signs of shock. Shock occurs when the circulatory system collapses after a traumatic injury. If it is not properly treated, shock can result in death. Check to see if the dog’s body is cool to the touch, if its pulse is weak and rapid, its breathing is shallow and rapid, and if its gums are pale or muddy in color. If the dog has any of these symptoms, it may be in shock.^[23]
2. 
   2
   Clear the dog’s airways. If the dog is showing signs of shock, you should try to get it to a vet as soon as possible. In the meantime, however, make sure all of its airways are clear. To do so, open the dog’s mouth, pull out the tongue with your fingers, and make sure there is no debris blocking its throat. If there are, use your fingers or a pair of tweezers or pliers to remove the debris.^[24]
3. 
   3
   Cover the dog with a coat or blanket. A dog that is in shock may have a drop in body temperature. To keep it warm, cover the dog with a coat, blanket, or a similar item. If you have the dog in your car, you can also turn the heat up to keep it warm.^[25]
4. 
   4
   Keep the dog’s head below its body. Another symptom of shock is unconsciousness. If the dog is unconscious, keep its head below its body to help blood flow. You can also try massaging the legs and body to help increase blood flow.^[26]

1. 
   1
   Look for injuries that are bleeding profusely. Take a thorough look at the dog’s body to determine if it has any injuries that are bleeding excessively. Look for areas in which the fur is saturated with blood or visible wounds from which blood is coming out.^[27]
2. 
   2
   Apply firm pressure to the wound. If the dog is bleeding severely, apply pressure to the wound with a clean piece of gauze or cloth. If the blood seeps through the first piece of gauze, apply another clean piece over it. Do not remove the soiled gauze because you could remove a blood clot that is forming and cause more bleeding.^[28]
3. 
   3
   Apply pressure to the arteries that supply blood. If the bleeding does not slow or stop after applying pressure for several minutes, try to slow the bleeding by applying pressure to the arteries that supply blood to the extremities. These pressure points are located on the inside of the front and back legs and the underside of the base of the tail. Use your fingers to apply pressure to these areas to help slow the bleeding.^[29]
4. 
   4
   Apply a tourniquet. If the bleeding still does not slow, you may need to apply a tourniquet. This should be done only as a last resort. To do so, wrap a strip of cloth or gauze, a belt, leash, or something similar around the wound. You should wrap the item between the wound and the body, about two inches away from the injury. Tie a knot in the cloth and place a strong stick through the loop in the knot. Twist the stick, tightening the cloth around the dog’s leg, until the bleeding slows down or stops. Secure the stick in place with tape or by tying the cloth around it again. Once the tourniquet is in place, cover the wound with a clean piece of gauze or cloth.

   • Never leave the tourniquet on for more than ten minutes at a time. After ten minutes, release the tourniquet for several seconds to allow for some circulation, and then reapply the tourniquet.
   • Never apply a tourniquet around a dog’s neck or over a joint or fracture.
   • Do not use a rope or piece of wire as a tourniquet, as these can cut or irritate the area.^[30]
5. 
   5
   Check for signs of internal bleeding. Internal bleeding can be hard to identify and treat. However, if the dog is bleeding from its mouth or anus, is vomiting blood, has blood in its stool, is in a coma, or in shock, there could be internal bleeding. It is important you get the dog to a vet as quickly as possible if you suspect internal bleeding.^[31]

1. 
   1
   Check for bone injuries. Spotting a broken or fractured bone can be difficult. To do so, look for areas that are swollen, particularly on the dog’s legs. There is often swelling around the break. If the dog is moving around or walking, observe it to determine whether or not it is moving any part of its body unusually. For example, is the dog holding one leg at an odd angle? Or is one of its legs shaped differently than the others? These can all be signs of a bone injury.^[32]
2. 
   2
   Don’t try to reset the injury. If the dog has a broken bone from the accident, it is important that you touch it as little as possible. Don’t ever try to reset the bone—this should only be done by a professional.^[33]
3. 
   3
   Transport the dog with as little movement as possible. Depending on the severity of the break and the size of the dog, you may be able to get the dog to a vet without splinting the injury first. If the dog is small enough, you can hold it, allowing the injured extremity to hang free. If the dog is larger and will not lay still, however, you may need to make a splint for the injury before taking it to the vet.^[34]
4. 
   4
   Make a splint. Most bone injuries are not life threatening, but immobilizing the injury can help prevent complications. To create a splint, find a solid, straight object, like a stick or piece of wood that is long enough to extend past the joints above and below the break. Place one of the sticks or pieces of wood on each side of the broken bone and secure them in place by wrapping or tying a cloth or rope around them.^[35]
5. 
   5
   Use caution if you suspect a broken neck or back. If you think the dog might have a broken neck or back, it is best to wait for animal control to arrive and assist you in treating the dog. If you have to move the dog, however, do so with as little movement as possible. Try to find a flat, hard surface, like a large board, to transport the dog on.^[36]

1. 
   1
   Call the vet on your way. Let the vet know you are coming so they can be prepared to take care of the dog as soon as you arrive. Also, let them know if you will need help getting the dog inside to prevent any further injuries.^[37]
2. 
   2
   Relay as much information as you can. Tell the vet everything you can about the condition of the dog. For instance, relay any measures you have already taken, like splinting a bone injury or applying a tourniquet. In addition, give them a general assessment of the dog’s vital signs. Is it breathing on its own? Is its body cool to the touch? Does the dog appear to be unconscious? The more information you can give the vet before you get there, the better they will be able to take care of the dog.^[38]
3. 
   3
   Drive carefully. You will, no doubt, want to get to the vet’s office as quickly as possible, but you should be careful to drive cautiously so you do not end up in a second accident. Observe all traffic laws and stay calm while you are driving.^[39]

reference: https://www.wikihow.com/Help-a-Dog-Hurt-in-a-Traffic-Accident

1. 
   1
   Provide a comfortable resting place. Make sure your pup has a warm spot where they’ll feel safe, during recovery. Dogs recovering from stroke can be confused or stressed. If they already have a regular spot, add some extra padding, blankets, or cushions to the area to make them more comfortable. It’s especially important to keep them warm without overheating. Your veterinarian will be an excellent resource to help you provide optimal comfort for your pup, once they return home.^[7]
2. 
   2
   Reposition your dog regularly. If they are unable to move freely, your pup may develop sores or body aches when they rest too long in the same spot. Gently shift them to another side or onto their stomach periodically to avoid this. If your dog is unable to move well enough to go outside to dispose of waste, you may want to position them in hay, wood chips, or other disposable, absorbent materials.^[8]
3. 
   3
   Administer medications as instructed. Depending on the cause or resultant medical concerns of your dog’s stroke, you may need to provide them with a variety of prescription medicines. Sedatives may be prescribed for anxious or disoriented dogs, especially those who demonstrate aggressive behaviors. Anti-nausea medication may be prescribed if your pup is dizzy and unable to keep down foods. Anti-inflammatories are prescribed for dogs who still have swelling concerns, and anticonvulsants may be used to prevent seizures.^[9]
4. 
   4
   Take your dog to the vet regularly. More frequent preventive doctor visits are important for dogs who’ve suffered a stroke. Going to the vet at least twice a year gives your vet the opportunity to screen for early indicators of stroke as well as numerous other canine illnesses that you may not recognize yourself. Your vet can then guide you through providing the best care for your dog at home.^[10]
5. 
   5
   Determine the cause of the stroke. It’s important to know what type of stroke your dog has experienced. Strokes can be caused by a blood clot or bleeding in the brain. This may occur with little or no warning or as the result of prolonged poor health caused by high blood pressure, infection, cancer, kidney disease, or heart health issues. It’s important to work with the vet to understand the root cause of the stroke in order to develop a treatment plan to prevent recurrence.

   • For instance, a dog whose stroke is the result of high blood pressure may need to take regular medication to reduce blood pressure.^[11]
6. 
   6
   Differentiate between heat stroke and vestibular disease. Heat stroke occurs when your dog’s body temperature is elevated above 103° F or 39° C for an extended period of time. This can lead to brain and other organ damage or failure. The symptoms are very similar to strokes caused by vestibular disease, but the causes are much different and easier to prevent by making sure you’re helping the dog stay cool and providing plenty of water on hot days.

   • Dogs can also suffer heat stroke caused by prolonged temperature as a result of illness or infection. Make sure to take your pet to the vet, if they show signs of sickness or infection like vomiting or lethargy.
   • Rarely, dogs experience a genetic malformation that causes them to be incapable of regulating body temperature. This is much more difficult to treat and will require ongoing maintenance performed by your vet.^[12]
7. 
   7
   Increase your dog’s antioxidant intake. Check your pet food for the inclusion of common natural antioxidants like vitamins C and E and citric acid. You may also find synthetic antioxidants like BHA and BHT on the ingredient list. Antioxidants are essential to prevent the negative effects of oxidation, which causes degeneration of healthy cells in the brain and other organs. Thus, the risk of stroke and other health concerns increases.

   • Dogs often eat herbs like rosemary in the wild that boost their antioxidant intake, so consider including some fresh rosemary in your dog’s daily meals.^[13]
8. 
   8
   Feed your pup a diet high in omega fatty acids. Omega 3s are thought to help dog’s recovering from a stroke because the Omega 3 fatty acids are concentrated in the brain where they create connections between the various parts of the brain. They also reduce inflammation and increase the flow of oxygen through the body, which is essential for the healthy function of every part of the body.

   • You can look for store-bought foods that include Omega 3s, or you can give your dog Omega 3 supplements. Check with your vet before beginning this course of treatment.^[14]

1. 
   1
   Watch your dog’s movements. You may not be present when your dog has a stroke, so it’s important to know the warning signs that one has occurred. Your pup may become imbalanced, lean to the side, or be completely incapable of walking. Other pets begin walking in circles because they are disoriented. If you notice any of these telltale signs, proceed to your nearest emergency pet hospital or your veterinarian’s office if possible.^[15]
2. 
   2
   Look at your dog’s eyes. If their eyes are moving rapidly from side to side, they may be having a stroke or they may have had one previously. This is called nystagmus, and it may also cause your dog to be unable to focus their eyes. Nystagmus may not happen constantly, but following a stroke or during a stroke, you will likely see some indicator that your dog’s eyes are unfocused, rapidly moving, or irregularly positioned (cross-eyed).^[16]
3. 
   3
   Count your dog’s breaths. Rapid breathing is another early indicator your dog is experiencing a stroke, may have a stroke, or has already had a stroke. Many dogs pant as though they are too warm, but in others, you will simply see their sides rising and falling very quickly. Other dogs may seem to struggle to breathe in at all and look and act as though they are gasping for air.^[17]

   • Typically, dogs breathe between ten and thirty-five times each minute. To check your dog’s rate of respiration, set a timer for fifteen seconds. Count your dog’s heart beats and multiply by four. If your dog’s resting heartbeat is above thirty-five, seek medical assistance.^[18]
4. 
   4
   Monitor your dog’s food intake. Stroke affects some dogs the way carsickness does. It causes dizziness and nausea which may lead to vomiting and loss of appetite. If your dog seems suddenly unwilling or unable to eat or vomits frequently following meals, this may be a warning sign of stroke.^[19]
5. 
   5
   Check for bright red eyelids and gums. This discoloration indicates your pup has had a decrease in the amount of oxygen circulation. Dark red coloring inside the eyelids and mouth is one of the most noticeable changes that occurs when dogs have recently suffered a stroke.^[20]

reference: https://www.wikihow.com/Help-Your-Dog-Through-a-Stroke

1. 
   1
   Put your mouth around the puppy’s nose and mouth. To effectively resuscitate the puppy, you’ll have to breathe for the puppy. Breathing is the foundation of CPR.

   • Place the puppy on a flat surface and lay them on their right side.
   • Alternatively, you can also use your hand to form a tight seal around the puppy’s nose and mouth, put your mouth to your hand, and provide breaths through your hand.
   • Know that diseases like Brucellosis may be transmitted from puppies to humans through fluids. Use the hand method to protect from this danger.^[5]
2. 
   2
   Provide two or three small breaths. After you’ve formed a seal around the puppy’s mouth and nose, you need to begin breathing for the puppy. Make sure you perform this function calmly and slowly, as you don’t want to injure the puppy.

   • Make sure your breaths are small and measured. The puppy’s lungs are very small. Blowing too much air may damage it.
   • Do not fully exhale.
   • Provide a pause of 1 second between each breath.^[6]
3. 
   3
   See if the puppy begins breathing. Your most certain sign of success is a breathing puppy. Look at the puppy’s chest. If you don’t observe breathing, you need to continue CPR.

   • If you do not feel or observe a heartbeat or breathing, you need to move on to chest compressions.^[7]

1. 
   1
   Search for a heartbeat. After breathing for your puppy, you need to search to see if its heart has restarted. While you should do this quickly, you also need to make sure you stay focused and do not panic.

   • Place the puppy on a flat surface.
   • Put your index and middle finger on the chest wall to feel for a heartbeat.
   • Use a stethoscope, if you have one.
   • If you don’t locate a heartbeat, you’ll need to perform chest compressions.^[8]
2. 
   2
   Position your hands. After you’ve confirmed that there is no heartbeat, you need to position your hands. Positioning your hands is one of the major tasks of CPR – as you want to make sure that they are in the appropriate position to apply pressure to the heart.

   • Put your thumbs and forefingers around the puppy’s chest.
   • Your thumbs should be in the middle of the chest, behind the front legs.^[9]
3. 
   3
   Compress the puppy’s chest. If you feel no heartbeat, you need to compress the puppy’s chest rapidly. Compression is intended to help restart the heart.

   • Push down with a light touch but enough to compress the chest 30% of its full width. Allow the chest to expand before giving another compression.^[10]
   • Create 17 compressions every 10 seconds. If you have someone with you, have them count out the 10 seconds for you.
   • Stop if you notice a heartbeat or breathing.^[11]

1. 
   1
   Repeat breathing. After compressing the chest, you need to breathe for the puppy again. This is important, as many dogs do not respond immediate to the first breaths or compressions.

   • Perform mouth to snout every 15 to 20 seconds.
   • Be very gentle and remember not to breathe too hard.
   • Check for signs of breathing.^[12]
2. 
   2
   Continue chest compressions. Whenever you complete your repetitions of breathing, you should also perform more chest compressions. When repeating chest compressions, make sure to:

   • Check for a heartbeat.
   • Position your hands appropriately.
   • Rapidly, but gently, compress the puppy’s chest.^[13]
3. 
   3
   Perform CPR as needed. In some circumstances, you may need to continue CPR for what seems like a long time before you notice results. You should, however, continue to perform CPR as long as you think there is hope of resuscitating the puppy.

   • Don’t give up too early.
   • You may perform CPR for up to 20 minutes.^[14]
   • The success rate for CPR on pets is relatively low – less than one in ten. If you cannot resuscitate the puppy, it is probably not your fault.^[15]
4. 
   4
   Care for the puppy after resuscitation. If you succeed in getting the puppy breathing again, you need to continue care. Ultimately, the puppy won’t be out of danger until they can breathe on their own for an extended amount of time.

   • Get your puppy to the veterinarian as soon as possible after successfully resuscitating it. Respiratory or cardiac arrest can recur even after a successful resuscitation.
   • After resuscitation, you will need to monitor your puppy for signs of distress for up to 48 hours.
   • Turn your puppy right side up and rub it with a towel after you resuscitate it.
   • If your puppy starts to breathe and stops again, continue giving it small breaths until it breathes on its own.^[16]

   reference: https://www.wikihow.com/Give-a-Newborn-Puppy-CPR