1. 
   1
   Sign an agreement. A pet protection agreement is an informal, written document that states that your emergency contact is responsible for your pet if you are unable to care for them. Both you and your contact must sign it. This will help ensure that your contact is able to legally assume responsibility for your dog.^[7]

   • While you do not need a lawyer for it, you may still want one to look over it for you.
   • Getting the document notarized can help in case a dispute arises. It can make the document more legally binding.
   • This agreement might state, “If there is a situation in which I am hospitalized, incapacitated or unable to return home, I designate John Doe to arrange for the feeding and care of my dog until I am able to return home again.”^[8]
   • Tell a trusted contact or two about the agreement. Store it somewhere safe but obvious in the event that you are unable to direct them to it.
   • You both should have a copy of this agreement.
2. 
   2
   Name a caretaker in your will. You can set provisions in your will to leave your pet to a designated caretaker, and you can even set aside money to that caretaker to provide for your dog after your death. Make sure you have talked about this extensively with your emergency contact before you do so; they should be fully committed to adopting your dog. You should then contact your lawyer about including the caretaker in your will.^[9]

   • If you cannot find someone willing to adopt your dog after your death, you can name a charitable organization that will rehome your dog. This will ensure that your dog does not go to a kill-shelter after your death.
   • Some states allow you to establish a trust that immediately provides money to a trustee for your dog’s care in the event of your death. Talk to a lawyer to see if this is an option for you.
3. 
   3
   Inform your vet. Once you have decided who your contact is, you should make sure that your vet knows. Call your vet, and tell them that you have established an emergency contact. Tell them that this person is responsible for your dog if something happens to you. This will help your vet continue caring for your dog in your absence.

   • When telling your vet, you should say, “Hi, I just want to notify you that I have chosen an emergency contact for my dog. Her name is Mary Smith, and she lives at 123 Main Street. If anything happens to me, she can make medical decisions for my dog on my behalf. Thanks.”
4. 
   4
   Place a sticker on your window. Emergencies can occur when you are not home. To let emergency responders know that there is an animal in the home, you can place a sticker on your window. On this sticker, you should also write both your name and number and the contact information of the pet’s emergency contact.^[10]

   • You can buy the stickers online or at a pet store.
   • The ASPCA provides free stickers through their website.
5. 5
   Carry a note in your wallet. In case something happens to you, you can inform responders that you have a pet in need of care at your home. The best way to do this is to stick a note in your wallet that states your dog’s name, any medications that they need, and the name of their emergency contact. Responders can reach the contact, and let them know that they should take your pet.^[11]

1. 
   1
   Give the contact a key to your house. If there is an emergency and you cannot reach your home, your contact should be able to enter your house to take care of your pet. It is important that you give your contact your house key.^[12] If you have a security system installed, they should have the password to turn it off.
2. 
   2
   Put together an emergency kit. To make things easy for your emergency contact, you should put together a kit that has everything your dog might need in an emergency. These items can be stored in a special toolbox, duffle bag, plastic storage crate, or trunk. Tell your contact where the kit is located so that they can grab it in an emergency.^[13] You should include:

   • Medications
   • A week’s worth of food
   • A bag of treats
   • A week’s worth of clean bottled water
   • First-aid kit^[14]
   • Copy of your dog’s medical records
   • An extra leash^[15]
3. 
   3
   Write down instructions. You should make sure that there are written instructions for your contact so that they know exactly how to provide for your dog. You might want to include these written instructions in the emergency kit, or you can post it on your fridge. You might also consider giving your contact the instructions in advance, so that they are prepared if an emergency strikes. Be sure to include:

   • How often and how much the dog eats
   • How often they need to be walked
   • When the dog needs to take medications
   • Who their vet is
   • Any medical problems
   • How often they need to be groomed
   • Where your dog’s crate, carrier, bed, toys, and food/water bowl are located in the home.
4. 
   4
   Check in with your contact. If the worst does happen, you should stay in touch with your emergency contact. As soon as you are able, call them to make sure that your dog is taken care of. You might even ask your contact to send you pictures or videos of your dog so that you can have peace of mind while you recover from the emergency.

   • You may also want to make sure that the contact is updated on your situation. You can say, “I will be in the hospital for another week. Are you ok taking care of Max for that long?”
   • If your contact is suddenly unable to take care of the dog, let them know where they can take your dog while you recover. This can be another emergency contact, a vet, or a boarding facility.
   • Be sure to thank them for their help.

   reference: https://www.wikihow.com/Establish-an-Emergency-Contact-for-Your-Dog

1. 1
   Think about your dog’s age. Many older dogs experience mobility problems. This includes stiffness after lying or sleeping and difficulty getting up. Older dogs may slow down when they walk, and they may not do the same activities they used to.^[7]

   • Though these are common symptoms in senior dogs, you should still have your dog checked out by a vet. Your vet may be able to figure out a way to ease any pain.
2. 2
   Determine if there is an immediate reason for the mobility problems. Sometimes, there is an immediate and obvious reason that your dog is limping. For example, maybe they cut their paw and it is healing. They may have also done vigorous exercise where that has left them bruised or sore. Even a dog having nails that are too long may lead to limping.^[8]

   • If your dog has recently had surgery, a medical procedure, or an injury this could result in mobility problems.
3. 
   3
   Consider the dog’s breed. Some breeds of dogs have a higher chance of developing hip and joint problems than others. These problems, such as arthritis or dysplasia, can cause limping or stiffness of the joints or limbs. Some breeds with common joint and limb problems are:^[9]

   • Dachshund
   • Labrador Retrievers
   • Golden Retrievers
   • German Shepherds
   • Rottweilers
   • Great Danes
   • Mastiffs

1. 
   1
   Take your dog to the vet. If you notice any problems with your dog’s legs or gait, you should take them to the vet. Your vet can do a physical exam and figure out exactly what is wrong with your dog. Limping, stiffness, and lameness are non-specific signs that may point to multiple conditions.^[10]

   • Even if you think your dog may not have a severe condition, you should still take them to the vet. You want to make sure that your dog is okay.
2. 
   2
   Determine the cause of the lameness. Dogs may experience limp or stiff movements for a variety of reasons. Because limp or stiff movement is a symptom of many conditions, it is difficult to figure out the reason without a physical exam by a vet. Common causes for stiff or limp movement include:

   • Arthritis^[11]
   • Hip or elbow dysplasia
   • Obesity
   • Vertebrae disease
   • Joint disease^[12]
   • Pinched neck nerve^[13]
   • Torn ACL^[14]
   • Sprains, bruises, or cuts on the foot pad^[15]
   • Trauma
   • Infection^[16]
3. 
   3
   Get your dog tested. When you take your dog to the vet, the vet will perform various tests to figure out what is causing your dog’s mobility issues. They need to figure out if it’s a muscle and skeletal problem, a problem with the brain, or an internal problem.^[17]

   • The vet will probably order x-rays, CT scans, or MRIs. They may also get samples of joint fluid, along with tissue and muscle samples.
4. 
   4
   Treat the underlying cause. The treatment of your dog’s mobility problems will depend on what is causing it. It may be as simple as making your dog lose weight to take weight and pressure off joints and limbs. Your vet may also prescribe pain medication or steroids to help your dog move better.^[18]

   • In severe cases, your dog may need to undergo surgery to fix the cause of the problem.

   reference: https://www.wikihow.com/Watch-a-Dog-for-Stiff-or-Limp-Movements

1. 1
   Anchor the tape around the backside of the injured leg. For an effective Ehmer sling, it’s best to use a strong, non-elastic roll of tape that’s porous enough to let the skin beneath the wrapping breathe. Fold the loose end of the tape around the lower leg just above the paw. Rather than encircling the entire limb, leave 2–3 inches (5.1–7.6 cm) free and press both adhesive sides of the tape together.^[6]

   • Be careful not to wrap the sling too tight. This could cut off your dog’s circulation, or at the very least cause discomfort.^[7]
   • By securing one side of the tape to the other, you can avoid wrapping the tape too tightly, which could cut off circulation to the limb or lead to sores or skin irritation.
   • Make sure the tape is centered, or else it could lose its hold as you begin to wrap the sling.
2. 2
   Guide the tape over the hip joint. Holding the injured leg in a flexed position, pull the free end of the tape up and around the crease where the thigh meets the abdomen. Then, work your way around to where you originally started to form a complete loop. The leg will now stay bent, which will help alleviate the strain on the muscles and tendons.^[8]

   • Repeat this taping pattern 2-3 more times to make sure the wrapping stays firmly in place.
   • Make sure you’re applying an even amount of pressure as you continue to wrap the tape. If some spots are wrapped tighter than others, your dog could get painful pressure sores.
3. 3
   Redirect the tape to form an abdominal band. If you’re using a separate piece of tape, start by positioning the tape in the same spot you did the first strip. This time, you can stick the end of the tape directly to the lower layer. If you’re using the same roll, simply unravel it enough to allow you to change direction without crossing any other part of the dog’s body.^[9]

   • When applying a sling to a larger breed, you may need to use a second roll of tape to ensure that you’ll have enough for multiple passes.
   • Without another point to support the leg band, the joint still won’t have the stability it needs to limit side-to-side movement. The leg band will therefore be responsible for keeping the knee flexed while the abdominal band braces the hip joint itself.^[10]
4. 4
   Continue wrapping the tape around the lower abdomen. Once the lower leg is secured, bring the roll up and over the lower back and around the front to the belly. The idea is to create a sort of girdle that anchors the leg band at two different angles. Repeat this wrapping pattern as many times as needed to fortify the sling. When you’re finished, the injured leg will be fully immobilized and ready to begin healing.^[11]

   • To keep the sling nice and snug, pull the loose skin around the haunches taut before stretching the tape around the dog’s midsection.
   • Take care not to pull the tape too tight, as this could cause discomfort or restrict breathing.
   • Avoid wrapping male dogs in such a way that they have difficulty urinating.

1. 1
   Use an Ehmer sling to stabilize recent dislocations. “Closed reduction” methods like Ehmer slings that restrict joint movement are most effective for dealing with injuries that have just occurred. Generally, it’s best to apply the wrapping within 24 hours of the incident. After that, there may be too much inflammation in the joint for a sling to be of any use.^[12]

   • Consult your vet before deciding that an Ehmer sling is what your dog needs. Depending on the nature of the injury, it may not be the best way to ensure recovery.
   • Never wrap a joint that has been dislocated for more than about 3 days—this could end up doing more harm than good.
2. 2
   Leave the sling in place for a minimum of 7-10 days. It may take up to two weeks before you begin to see an improvement in the injured limb. The longest you should leave an Ehmer sling in place is 14 days, after which time the joint should be strong enough to support the dog’s weight while walking short distances.^[13]

   • Assuming that it’s been applied correctly, the sling shouldn’t loosen up or come undone.
   • Keep the wrapping as dry as possible. Otherwise, there’s a chance the adhesive may wear off prematurely.
3. 3
   Check periodically for sores and other complications. Examine the area around your dog’s lower leg, thigh, and abdomen for signs of swelling, skin irritation, bruising, or thinning fur. Should you happen to discover any of these issues, reposition or remove the sling right away. When left unaddressed, they have the potential to pose serious health risks.^[14]

   • Ask your vet what they recommend as your next best course of action.

   reference: https://www.wikihow.com/Use-an-Ehmer-Sling

1. 
   1
   Visit your vet. After you have applied the first bandage, you should visit your veterinarian as soon as you can. You will want to check to see the extent of the damage and how best to treat it.

   • There may be broken bones in the tail that need advanced treatment.
   • Your vet may prescribe certain ointments or have alternative techniques for you to follow.
   • The dog may need stitches if the bleeding too profuse.
2. 
   2
   Change the bandage as needed. The bandage will need changing as it will either become soiled, wet, fall off, or be destroyed by the dog chewing it. Apply new bandages as you did before to keep the wound healing, protected, and safe from infection or further damage.^[10]

   • Do not leave the bandage in place for more than a day.
   • Wet bandages will trap infections.
   • Most tail problems will heal in two weeks
   • Visit your veterinarian if the wound doesn’t seem to be healing.
3. 
   3
   Keep things calm. Happy tail results from your dog either wagging his tail so hard that it bleeds or hitting his tail on a hard surface. If you are able to lower the level of excitement in your dog, you will lower the chances of continued injury to your dog’s tail.^[11]

   • If your dog gets overly excited when you return home, ignore them, until you get to a larger room that he can wag his tail in without worry of them striking a hard surface.
   • If your dog gets excited about going on a walk, prepare for the walk in a larger room, giving them more space and avoiding any injury to his tail.
   • Try to act calmly around your dog as this can result in calm behavior from them as well.
   • Try using the “sit” command. By having your dog sit, it will reduce the amount of force that he can wag his tail with.^[12]
4. 
   4
   Remove the bandage. If the bandage needs to be on for more than a day, you will have to remove and change the bandage. Leaving a bandage on will increase the chances of infection and won’t allow the tail to heal as well as it could. Remove the old bandage by using the following methods:^[13]

   • For any areas of the bandage where the fur is stuck to the adhesive, try soaking them in vegetable or olive oil for a few minutes. These oils will help break down the adhesive and allow for easy removal.
   • If your dogs wound is healed, you can also try using shampoo to remove the adhesive and painlessly take the bandage off.
   • For small amounts of fur that are stuck to the bandage, you may simply cut the fur away with a pair of scissors. Exercise caution when cutting the bandage away as it is easy to accidentally cut the dogs tail. If you are not confident doing this, you could take your dog to the groomer.
   • Pulling the bandage off will also pull your dogs hair out and cause it pain. Avoid this method of removal as your dog will come to fear bandages.
   • Do not use any harsh chemicals such as nail polish or rubbing alcohol as these can be harmful to your dog.

   reference: https://www.wikihow.com/Wrap-a-Dog%27s-Tail

1. 1
   Keep the dog in standing position. Ask someone to help keep the dog in place so you can bandage the wound and wrap the shoulder. The dog should be standing so you can wrap the bandage under the dog’s torso.
2. 2

   Press a cotton bandage on the shoulder wound. Dab the wound gently with clean cotton gauze. Then cut a cotton bandage to fit the size of the wound and place it directly on the open wound. Press down firmly with 1 hand to slow any bleeding.^[7]

   • Consider wearing gloves to prevent introducing germs to the wound.
3. 
   3

   Wrap an elastic bandage around your dog’s torso and shoulder. Press 1 end of the elastic bandage on your dog’s back near its shoulder. Pull the bandage down and under its torso before bringing it back up near the shoulder. Bring the bandage down over the covered wound and wrap it around the dog’s leg to keep the bandage in place. Repeat this a few times to stabilize the shoulder.^[8]

   • Use moderate tension to avoid cutting off circulation.
4. 
   4

   Wrap the bandage behind the dog’s neck and under the torso. To create a harness-type bandage that secures the shoulder, pull the bandage behind the dog’s neck and down onto its chest. Bring the bandage behind the leg of the affected shoulder and back up behind the dog’s shoulder. Wrap the bandage around the leg a few times for support.

   • You should see a V-shaped bandage on the dog’s chest.
5. 
   5

   Secure the bandage with medical tape. Pull off a few inches of medical tape and cut it. Tape the bandage in place along the dog’s back so the bandage doesn’t unwind. You may need to use a few pieces. If you don’t have medical tape, you can use masking tape or another strong tape that you have around the house.

   • Some bandages come with butterfly closures that secure the elastic bandage in place.
6. 
   6
   Run your finger under the bandage to check the fit. Slide your index finger under the bandage near your dog’s leg and chest. You should be able to easily slide your finger under the bandage from the shoulder down across the chest. If you can’t, the bandage is too tight and you should wrap it more loosely.^[9]
7. 
   7

   Get your dog to a veterinarian as soon as possible. These instructions are only meant to help you provide immediate first aid when necessary. If your dog has a deep, bleeding wound or you suspect the dog has a shoulder fracture, it will need medical treatment.^[10]

   • The vet will remove your dog’s shoulder wrap to clean and examine the wound. The dog may need x-rays, injections, or stitches.

   reference: https://www.wikihow.com/Wrap-a-Dog%E2%80%99s-Shoulder

1. 
   1
   See a veterinarian. A nosebleed is often a symptom of an underlying condition. Therefore, if you notice a nosebleed in your dog, you need to take it to the vet as soon as possible to get a diagnosis. Often, your dog will continue to get nosebleeds if the underlying condition isn’t treated.^[6]

   • Expect tests. Because a nosebleed can indicate a wide variety of conditions, your doctor will need to do a full examination, plus a range of tests. The tests will likely include taking both a blood sample and a urine sample for analysis. Your vet may also order x-rays or a CAT scan to help to determine what is wrong.^[7]
   • Nosebleeds in dogs can be caused by more minor issues such as high blood pressure, dental disease, a fungal infection, or mild trauma (including having something stuck in the nose). Your dog may also have a problem with blood clotting. Some more serious possibilities include the chance of a tumor or cancer, problems from eating rat poison, and diseases passed from ticks.^[8]
   • The most common causes for nosebleeds are infections, trauma, and tumors.^[9] A few other possibilities include Rocky Mountain spotted fever or a thyroid issue.^[10]
2. 
   2
   Think about possible causes. It can help your vet if you think about possible connections to the nose bleed. For instance, if you know your dog got into rat poison (which can also happen if they eat a rodent contaminated with poison), that’s a connection. Another connection is if the dog experienced any trauma recently, such as running into something. Foxtails, a type of grass with a spiky end, can also be a problem if your dog has had a run-in with it recently, as the end can go up the dog’s nose and get stuck.^[11]

   • Medications can also cause nosebleeds, particularly NSAIDs (like ibuprofen).
3. 
   3
   Understand how the vet may stop the nosebleed. If your dog’s nose won’t stop bleeding, your doctor may need to employ some other tactics than you used. They may use epinephrine drops on the nose, for instance, or they may put your dog under anesthesia and pack its nose with gauze.^[12]

   • Your vet may also have to cauterize the end of the blood vessels to stop the nosebleeds.
   • If your dog has lost a lot of blood, it may need a blood transfusion, which your vet can provide.
   • Ask about antibiotics or antifungals for infections. If your dog has an infection, a round of antibiotics or antifungals may be needed to treat the infection. Once the infection has been banished by the medications, the nosebleeds should go away, too.^[13]
4. 
   4
   Know a plasma transfusion may be needed. If your dog has von Willebrand’s disease, it may need a plasma transfusion to help treat it.^[14] Von Willebrand’s disease, often inherited, is found in both dogs and humans. Basically, the blood doesn’t clot as well as it should, causing excessive bleeding.^[15]

   • After the bleeding has stopped and your dog has had a plasma transfusion, your doctor may recommend that it begin taking a round of drugs intended to treat the disease.
5. 
   5
   Remove the object if something is lodged. If your dog ran into something that become lodged in its nose, the vet will need to remove the object. Doing so may cause more bleeding for a bit, but the nosebleeds should clear up eventually.^[16]

   • Your vet may be able to remove the object with tweezers. If they can’t remove the object, they may need to move on to surgery.
6. 
   6
   Understand other options. If the problem is a tumor, a build-up from a fungal infection, or a badly lodged object, surgery will likely need to be performed on your dog. Of course, your vet will need to make this call, and they will provide you with the options you have for your dog’s care.^[17]

   • Depending on what’s causing the problem, your dog may need other treatments, such as immunosuppressive therapy. Prednisone may be prescribed if the problem has to do with the platelets in the blood. Chemotherapy or radiation therapy may be needed if the cause is cancer. Your dog may also need to stay in the hospital for a period of time for treatment.^[18]
7. 
   7
   Follow your vet’s directions at home. Once your dog comes home, you’ll need to follow all of your vet’s instructions. Your dog will need to be kept calm. A crate can help in severe cases. You’ll also likely need to give your dog medications, either pills or a spray for the nostrils, which your vet will show you how to apply.^[19]

1. 
   1
   Watch for blood. Obviously, the main symptom of a nosebleed is a slow, steady flow of blood dripping from your dog’s nose. However, you may not notice the flow right away. Watch for the skin around the nose changing color (turning darker because of the blood).^[20]

   • You may also see swelling around the mouth and nose.^[21]
2. 
   2
   Look for signs of distress. Even if you don’t notice the blood right away, your dog is likely to know something is wrong or different. It will likely paw at its nose as a nosebleed starts because it can feel the blood starting to come out.^[22]
3. 
   3
   Give your dog’s breath a sniff. As a dog owner, you know dog breath is rarely pleasant. However, nosebleeds can cause even worse breath, particularly if they are chronic. If you notice your dog’s breath suddenly getting worse, it could be because of nosebleeds or the underlying cause.^[23]
4. 
   4
   Pay attention to your dog’s eating habits. If your dog suddenly stops eating, that could also be a sign of nosebleeds. More likely, it’s a sign of the underlying condition causing the nosebleed. Either way, if your dog stops eating, it needs to see a vet.^[24]

   • While your dog may still be eating, you should also note if it’s losing weight over time.
5. 
   5
   Check out your dog’s feces. This job is definitely not a fun one. However, you don’t need to dig around in your dog’s feces. Rather, you just need to note the color. If it’s especially dark and sticky, that could mean your dog has been swallowing blood from a nosebleed.^[25]

reference: https://www.wikihow.com/Treat-Nosebleeds-in-Dogs

1. 
   1
   Take your dog to the vet as soon as possible. If your dog has frostbite, you should get them treated by a vet immediately. The veterinarian will examine your dog, evaluate the degree of damage, and take measures for treating the frostbite, as well as any other condition such as systemic shock or hypothermia.^[6]

   • Wrap your dog in warm towels on your way to the vet. Don’t turn the heat up too high as you drive. Instead, keep the car at a mild, warm temperature.
2. 
   2
   Get pain medication. The vet may decide that the thawing skin will cause your dog too much pain. They may give your dog a prescription pain medication to help relieve their symptoms.^[7]

   • Don’t give your dog any over-the-counter pain medications. Many of these medications can be toxic to dogs. This may also mean that the vet is not able to prescribe anything stronger to your dog for pain.
3. 3
   Have your dog undergo extra measures to warm up. If your dog is still not warmed up enough, the vet will do additional procedures to raise their temperature and unthaw the skin. They may be given warm IV fluids or a warm water enema to help raise their internal temperature.^[8]
4. 4
   Treat secondary infections with antibiotics. If your dog has severe frostbite that resulted in dead tissue, the vet may prescribe antibiotics. These medications will help prevent a secondary bacterial infection. If your dog already has an infection around the tissue, they will be given antibiotics.^[9]
5. 5
   Remove dead tissue surgically. If your pet has dead tissue or dead body parts, they will need to be removed. The vet may amputate affected body parts or surgically remove the necrotic tissues. This is rare and only for severe cases.^[10]

   • While your dog is anesthetized, the vet will debride the dead tissue to reach the healthy tissue. Several surgeries may be required to accomplish this since it may take time to see the full extent of the damage.

1. 1
   Check for pale, gray skin. Dogs that have frostbite will has discolored skin. This discoloration makes the skin appear pale, gray, or bluish instead of their skin normal color.^[11]

   • This can be very hard to see, so you may need to look under their fur at different patches of skin.
2. 2
   Monitor the most common areas affected. Frostbite is not easy to see on your pet. You may not notice they have frostbite unless you really check out their body. If you want to monitor your dog for frostbite, keep an eye on the extremities of the body.^[12]

   • This includes the ears, lips, tail, face, feet, and scrotum.
3. 3
   Feel for cold skin. Another way you can tell if your beloved pet has frostbite is by touching it. Dog’s skin should be warm. Skin that is frostbitten will feel brittle or cold when touched, and the dog may also lack sensation in the affected areas.
4. 4
   Search for red skin. When the frostbitten skin starts to warm up, it can become red and swollen. This area may be painful for your dog.^[13]

   • The skin may develop skin blisters or ulcers if it’s second degree frostbite.
5. 
   5
   Notice peeling skin. If the skin that was frostbitten died, the dead tissue may start peeling off over a few weeks. This may be accompanied by cracking and extremely dry patches of skin.^[14]
6. 
   6
   Look for darkened or dead skin. If your dog gets really bad frostbite, the skin will start turning dark. It may turn black after a few days. This is evidence of third degree frostbite.^[15]

   • There may be a clear line between damaged and healthy tissue on the skin.
   • These areas may have pus from a bacterial infection and the affected area may have a foul smell.
7. 
   7
   Monitor your dog for days after being in extreme cold. The signs of frostbite may not appear immediately. Your pet may be suffering from frostbite for a few days before they even begin to show symptoms. After being outside with your dog in extreme cold conditions, or if they came into contact with ice or snow, watch them carefully for any symptoms of frostbite.^[16]
8. 
   8
   Determine if your dog is at risk. Some dogs are more susceptible to frostbite than others. Knowing whether or not your dog is at a high risk can help you take extra precautions to protect them from frostbite. Small, short-haired dogs have a higher risk than other dogs.^[17]

   • Dogs that are wet in cold weather can easily get frostbite.
   • Dogs that are sensitive to cold weather due to age or an illness may be more likely to get frostbite.
   • Dogs who spend long periods of time outside without adequate warm, dry shelter can easily develop frostbite.

   reference: https://www.wikihow.com/Treat-Frostbite-in-Dogs