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How to Help a Dog Hurt in a Traffic Accident

Trying to help a dog hurt in a traffic accident can be nerve racking. You might want to help the dog, but are unsure how to go about doing so without further injuring the dog or risking injury yourself. The first thing you should do is contact a vet to see if they can walk you through helping the dog. You’ll want to get the dog to the vet as soon as possible, but depending on the severity of the dog’s injuries, you may need to administer aid to it before you can transport it. By learning how to safely approach the dog and asses its injuries, you can determine what kind of aid you might be able to safely provide until you can get it to the vet for professional treatment.

1

Approaching the Dog

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    Speak softly to the dog. Start talking to the dog before moving toward it. Use a soft, soothing voice that will be comforting to the dog. Shouting or using a loud, firm voice could intimidate the dog, making it uncomfortable or scared.

    • Keep talking to the dog in this manner the whole time you are trying to help it.[1]
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    Turn your body slightly away from the dog. As you approach, keep your body turned slightly away from the dog so that you are not towering over it. Towering above the dog can be scary for it and may cause it to act aggressively in defense.[2] If possible, stay low to the ground as you approach so that you appear as less of a threat to the dog.
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    Move slowly. Do not run up to the dog, as this might frighten it and cause it to try to run away. Instead, make slow, steady movements. Stop when you are about one foot away from the injured dog.[3]
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    Extend a closed hand toward the dog. Make a loose fist with one of your hands. Keeping your knuckles pointed up, slowly extend your closed hand toward the dog. Depending on the dog’s reaction to your hand, do one of the following:

    • If the dog struggles, growls, or makes another act of aggression, retract your hand. Continue to talk softly to the dog for another minute or so, then reach your hand out again. You may need to do this several times before the dog begins to trust you.
    • If the dog shows no signs of aggression, pet it gently with your closed hand. Continue talking softly to the dog while you pet it.[4]
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    Determine if the dog is too aggressive to approach. If you’ve tried to approach the dog by following the steps above, but the dog is still being very aggressive, it may not be safe for you to try and help the dog. If you feel the dog will bite you if you continue to approach, slowly back away. Call animal control to assist in rescuing the dog.

    • You should also call animal control if the dog has run away from the scene. They can help track down and safely capture the dog.[5]

2

Moving the Dog to Safety

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    Muzzle the dog. Whether the dog seems aggressive or not, you need to muzzle itbefore moving it or examining it for injuries. Even a gentle, mild-tempered dog will bite when it is scared or in pain. If you don’t have a muzzle available, lay a piece of cloth across the dog’s nose, as close to the eyes as possible. Next, wrap both ends of the cloth around the dog’s nose and tie the ends in a knot underneath its jaw. Finally, tie the loose ends of the cloth behind the dog’s neck.

    • Some things you can use for a muzzle include a leash, sock, piece of gauze, neck tie, or strip of sheet.[6]
    • If the dog is vomiting, do not muzzle it. This could cause it to choke.[7]
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    Look for a back injury. Before moving the dog in any way, look to see if it appears to have a back injury. If it does, do not attempt to move it. Instead, call animal control or a veterinarian to assist you.[8] Look for the following to identify a possible back injury:

    • Observe whether or not the dog is willing and able to turn or raise its head. If it isn’t, it might have a back injury.
    • Additionally, look for any areas of visible trauma around the back or spine, like bruises or discoloration. If the spine looks abnormally aligned, curving upward for instance, this can also indicate a back injury.
    • Finally, if the dog yelps or moans when its back or neck is touched, there is a good chance it has a back injury.[9]
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    Shift the dog onto a blanket, coat, or tarp. If you feel confident the dog does not have a back injury, find a blanket, tarp, coat, or shirt you can place the dog on to carry it. Lay the item flat on the ground behind the dog’s back. Using slow, careful movements, shift or slide the dog back onto the blanket, tarp, or coat.

    • If there are other people at the scene, get someone to help you shift the dog onto the blanket.[10]
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    Move the dog to a safe place. Once you have the dog securely on the blanket, get someone to help you lift the dog. You’ll want to move the dog as little as possible, so if you can, go ahead and place the dog in the back seat of your car. If you cannot place it in your car, find a soft piece of ground where you can administer first aid.[11]

    • If you are alone at the accident, you can try pulling the dog out of the street once you have it on the blanket. Make sure you can do this without aggravating any current injuries or creating any new cuts or abrasions.

3

Performing Artificial Respiration

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    Check to see if the dog is breathing. As soon as the dog is moved to safety, check to see if it is breathing. To do so, watch its chest to see if it is rising and falling. If there is no movement, it is not breathing and you should perform artificial respiration, which is where you assist the dog in breathing.[12]

    • You may also need to perform artificial respiration if the dog has labored breathing, is unconscious, or shows other signs of respiratory suppression, like blue or pale-colored gums, or a staring expression.[13]
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    Lay the dog on its side. To perform artificial respiration, first lay the dog on its side on a flat surface, pulling the neck and head forward (as long as the dog has no neck or back injuries).[14]
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    Clear any debris from inside the dog’s mouth. Next, open the dog’s mouth and pull its tongue forward with your fingers. Clear any debris from the dog’s mouth that may be preventing it from breathing or causing it to choke. Once you have removed any debris, close the dog’s mouth.

    • You may need to remove the muzzle for this step. Be careful even if the dog is unconscious, as it could wake up at any moment. Put the muzzle back on once you have cleared its mouth of debris.[15]
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    Breath into the dog’s nose. After reapplying the muzzle, inhale and place your mouth over the dog’s nose, forming an airtight seal around it. Exhale into the dog’s nose.[16] Exhale just enough so that the chest expands. You will have to exhale harder for larger dogs and more gently for smaller dogs. Lift the dog’s chin while you are doing this so its throat is straight.[17]
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    Remove your mouth. Remove your mouth from the dog’s nose after you exhale and allow the dog’s chest to deflate.[18]
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    Check for a pulse. After the dog’s chest deflates, check to see if it has a pulse. The dog’s heart can still be beating even if it is not breathing. If you cannot find a pulse, you should start chest compressions immediately.[19]

    • Check for a pulse by placing two fingers on the inside of the dog’s rear thigh.[20]
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    Start chest compressions if there is no heart beat. If there is another person present, have them help you resuscitate the dog—one of you will perform chest compressions while the other continues artificial respiration. Have one person perform three chest compressions after every time you exhale into the dog’s nose. If you are alone, do five chest compressions for every breath. Use the following procedures to perform chest compressions:

    • For small dogs (30 pounds or less): Lay the dog on its side on a flat surface. Place one hand on top of the other, interlocking your fingers. Place the palm of the bottom hand on the rib cage, over the dog’s heart. Press down, compressing the chest about one inch. Squeeze and release this hold steadily at a rate of 80 to 100 compressions per minute.
    • For large dogs (over 30 pounds): Lay the dog on its side on a flat surface. Place one hand on top of the other, interlocking your fingers. Place the bottom hand over the widest part of the dog’s rib cage (not necessarily over the heart). Push down on the rib cage, keeping your arms straight. Compress the chest about one quarter of its width. Continue to squeeze and release rhythmically at a rate of around 80 compressions per minute.[21]
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    Repeat this process. You may need to repeat this process 15 to 20 times per minute (or one breath every three seconds, on average) to get the dog breathing normally. When the dog starts to fight the process or you notice its gums are returning to their normal color, the dog’s breathing is improving and you can stop artificial respiration.[22]

4

Treating Shock

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    Check the dog for signs of shock. Shock occurs when the circulatory system collapses after a traumatic injury. If it is not properly treated, shock can result in death. Check to see if the dog’s body is cool to the touch, if its pulse is weak and rapid, its breathing is shallow and rapid, and if its gums are pale or muddy in color. If the dog has any of these symptoms, it may be in shock.[23]
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    Clear the dog’s airways. If the dog is showing signs of shock, you should try to get it to a vet as soon as possible. In the meantime, however, make sure all of its airways are clear. To do so, open the dog’s mouth, pull out the tongue with your fingers, and make sure there is no debris blocking its throat. If there are, use your fingers or a pair of tweezers or pliers to remove the debris.[24]
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    Cover the dog with a coat or blanket. A dog that is in shock may have a drop in body temperature. To keep it warm, cover the dog with a coat, blanket, or a similar item. If you have the dog in your car, you can also turn the heat up to keep it warm.[25]
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    Keep the dog’s head below its body. Another symptom of shock is unconsciousness. If the dog is unconscious, keep its head below its body to help blood flow. You can also try massaging the legs and body to help increase blood flow.[26]

5

Controlling and Stopping Bleeding

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    Look for injuries that are bleeding profusely. Take a thorough look at the dog’s body to determine if it has any injuries that are bleeding excessively. Look for areas in which the fur is saturated with blood or visible wounds from which blood is coming out.[27]
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    Apply firm pressure to the wound. If the dog is bleeding severely, apply pressure to the wound with a clean piece of gauze or cloth. If the blood seeps through the first piece of gauze, apply another clean piece over it. Do not remove the soiled gauze because you could remove a blood clot that is forming and cause more bleeding.[28]
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    Apply pressure to the arteries that supply blood. If the bleeding does not slow or stop after applying pressure for several minutes, try to slow the bleeding by applying pressure to the arteries that supply blood to the extremities. These pressure points are located on the inside of the front and back legs and the underside of the base of the tail. Use your fingers to apply pressure to these areas to help slow the bleeding.[29]
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    Apply a tourniquet. If the bleeding still does not slow, you may need to apply a tourniquet. This should be done only as a last resort. To do so, wrap a strip of cloth or gauze, a belt, leash, or something similar around the wound. You should wrap the item between the wound and the body, about two inches away from the injury. Tie a knot in the cloth and place a strong stick through the loop in the knot. Twist the stick, tightening the cloth around the dog’s leg, until the bleeding slows down or stops. Secure the stick in place with tape or by tying the cloth around it again. Once the tourniquet is in place, cover the wound with a clean piece of gauze or cloth.

    • Never leave the tourniquet on for more than ten minutes at a time. After ten minutes, release the tourniquet for several seconds to allow for some circulation, and then reapply the tourniquet.
    • Never apply a tourniquet around a dog’s neck or over a joint or fracture.
    • Do not use a rope or piece of wire as a tourniquet, as these can cut or irritate the area.[30]
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    Check for signs of internal bleeding. Internal bleeding can be hard to identify and treat. However, if the dog is bleeding from its mouth or anus, is vomiting blood, has blood in its stool, is in a coma, or in shock, there could be internal bleeding. It is important you get the dog to a vet as quickly as possible if you suspect internal bleeding.[31]

6

Treating Bone Injuries

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    Check for bone injuries. Spotting a broken or fractured bone can be difficult. To do so, look for areas that are swollen, particularly on the dog’s legs. There is often swelling around the break. If the dog is moving around or walking, observe it to determine whether or not it is moving any part of its body unusually. For example, is the dog holding one leg at an odd angle? Or is one of its legs shaped differently than the others? These can all be signs of a bone injury.[32]
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    Don’t try to reset the injury. If the dog has a broken bone from the accident, it is important that you touch it as little as possible. Don’t ever try to reset the bone—this should only be done by a professional.[33]
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    Transport the dog with as little movement as possible. Depending on the severity of the break and the size of the dog, you may be able to get the dog to a vet without splinting the injury first. If the dog is small enough, you can hold it, allowing the injured extremity to hang free. If the dog is larger and will not lay still, however, you may need to make a splint for the injury before taking it to the vet.[34]
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    Make a splint. Most bone injuries are not life threatening, but immobilizing the injury can help prevent complications. To create a splint, find a solid, straight object, like a stick or piece of wood that is long enough to extend past the joints above and below the break. Place one of the sticks or pieces of wood on each side of the broken bone and secure them in place by wrapping or tying a cloth or rope around them.[35]
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    Use caution if you suspect a broken neck or back. If you think the dog might have a broken neck or back, it is best to wait for animal control to arrive and assist you in treating the dog. If you have to move the dog, however, do so with as little movement as possible. Try to find a flat, hard surface, like a large board, to transport the dog on.[36]

7

Transporting the Dog to A Vet

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    Call the vet on your way. Let the vet know you are coming so they can be prepared to take care of the dog as soon as you arrive. Also, let them know if you will need help getting the dog inside to prevent any further injuries.[37]
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    Relay as much information as you can. Tell the vet everything you can about the condition of the dog. For instance, relay any measures you have already taken, like splinting a bone injury or applying a tourniquet. In addition, give them a general assessment of the dog’s vital signs. Is it breathing on its own? Is its body cool to the touch? Does the dog appear to be unconscious? The more information you can give the vet before you get there, the better they will be able to take care of the dog.[38]
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    Drive carefully. You will, no doubt, want to get to the vet’s office as quickly as possible, but you should be careful to drive cautiously so you do not end up in a second accident. Observe all traffic laws and stay calm while you are driving.[39]

reference: https://www.wikihow.com/Help-a-Dog-Hurt-in-a-Traffic-Accident

How to Help Your Dog Through a Stroke

Canine stroke caused by vestibular disease occurs most often in dogs over the age of seven. However, it can happen at any time in your dog’s life, and it’s important to know the warning signs and have a plan of action. The key is to be informed about symptoms of stroke, work with your vet to monitor your dog’s health regularly, and provide immediate care during and after a stroke.[1]

Part1

Keeping Your Dog Safe During a Stroke

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    Stay with your dog until the stroke is over. This may take a few minutes to several hours, but it is important to be with the dog to keep them safe and reassured. People are frequently not present when the actual stroke occurs, but if you notice rapid eye movement, loss of balance, or vomiting, your dog may be having a stroke. Try to stay close to your dog, and don’t move them until the symptoms have stopped.[2]
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    Help your dog relax. Talk to the dog in hushed tones, and do whatever you can to make your dog feel more at ease. Even though the situation can be frightening or stressful for you, try not to demonstrate that stress to your dog. Remain as calm as possible. Let your dog move around if they want to without stopping them, but if they come to you crying or seeking attention, take time to speak to them softly and pet them.[3]
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    Offer the dog water periodically. Some dogs develop an unquenchable thirst following an acute stroke. It is important that they have water, but you might need to limit the amount. Your dog may not stop drinking as long as the water is in front of them, so allow them to drink a few swallows at a time and remove the water. Monitor your dog’s behavior and react accordingly.

    • The vet will be able to carefully monitor your dog’s hydration and provide appropriate and safe levels of fluids. If you’re unsure how much water to offer, call your vet or local emergency animal hospital.[4]
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    Elevate your dog’s head. Keep your dog’s head free of excess pressure. Make sure your pet is elevated so the blood flows away from the brain if they are laying down. If the dog is sitting or walking around, try to gently move their head upwards to relieve pressure. Stroke is caused by excess pressure between the brain and skull bone, so preventing additional pressure is essential.[5]
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    Take the dog to the vet immediately. If there’s an emergency animal clinic nearby, go there right away. The sooner a pet doctor is able to evaluate and assist your dog, the better. They can help you keep your dog safe, and professional care will increase your pet’s chances for a full, healthy recovery. However, if you believe your dog is currently having a stroke, wait to move the dog until they are calm.

    • In most cases, your dog will need to remain hospitalized for several days, so your veterinarian can monitor their health at regular intervals.[6]

Part2

Caring for Dogs who Have Suffered Canine Stroke

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    Provide a comfortable resting place. Make sure your pup has a warm spot where they’ll feel safe, during recovery. Dogs recovering from stroke can be confused or stressed. If they already have a regular spot, add some extra padding, blankets, or cushions to the area to make them more comfortable. It’s especially important to keep them warm without overheating. Your veterinarian will be an excellent resource to help you provide optimal comfort for your pup, once they return home.[7]
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    Reposition your dog regularly. If they are unable to move freely, your pup may develop sores or body aches when they rest too long in the same spot. Gently shift them to another side or onto their stomach periodically to avoid this. If your dog is unable to move well enough to go outside to dispose of waste, you may want to position them in hay, wood chips, or other disposable, absorbent materials.[8]
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    Administer medications as instructed. Depending on the cause or resultant medical concerns of your dog’s stroke, you may need to provide them with a variety of prescription medicines. Sedatives may be prescribed for anxious or disoriented dogs, especially those who demonstrate aggressive behaviors. Anti-nausea medication may be prescribed if your pup is dizzy and unable to keep down foods. Anti-inflammatories are prescribed for dogs who still have swelling concerns, and anticonvulsants may be used to prevent seizures.[9]
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    Take your dog to the vet regularly. More frequent preventive doctor visits are important for dogs who’ve suffered a stroke. Going to the vet at least twice a year gives your vet the opportunity to screen for early indicators of stroke as well as numerous other canine illnesses that you may not recognize yourself. Your vet can then guide you through providing the best care for your dog at home.[10]
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    Determine the cause of the stroke. It’s important to know what type of stroke your dog has experienced. Strokes can be caused by a blood clot or bleeding in the brain. This may occur with little or no warning or as the result of prolonged poor health caused by high blood pressure, infection, cancer, kidney disease, or heart health issues. It’s important to work with the vet to understand the root cause of the stroke in order to develop a treatment plan to prevent recurrence.

    • For instance, a dog whose stroke is the result of high blood pressure may need to take regular medication to reduce blood pressure.[11]
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    Differentiate between heat stroke and vestibular disease. Heat stroke occurs when your dog’s body temperature is elevated above 103° F or 39° C for an extended period of time. This can lead to brain and other organ damage or failure. The symptoms are very similar to strokes caused by vestibular disease, but the causes are much different and easier to prevent by making sure you’re helping the dog stay cool and providing plenty of water on hot days.

    • Dogs can also suffer heat stroke caused by prolonged temperature as a result of illness or infection. Make sure to take your pet to the vet, if they show signs of sickness or infection like vomiting or lethargy.
    • Rarely, dogs experience a genetic malformation that causes them to be incapable of regulating body temperature. This is much more difficult to treat and will require ongoing maintenance performed by your vet.[12]
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    Increase your dog’s antioxidant intake. Check your pet food for the inclusion of common natural antioxidants like vitamins C and E and citric acid. You may also find synthetic antioxidants like BHA and BHT on the ingredient list. Antioxidants are essential to prevent the negative effects of oxidation, which causes degeneration of healthy cells in the brain and other organs. Thus, the risk of stroke and other health concerns increases.

    • Dogs often eat herbs like rosemary in the wild that boost their antioxidant intake, so consider including some fresh rosemary in your dog’s daily meals.[13]
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    Feed your pup a diet high in omega fatty acids. Omega 3s are thought to help dog’s recovering from a stroke because the Omega 3 fatty acids are concentrated in the brain where they create connections between the various parts of the brain. They also reduce inflammation and increase the flow of oxygen through the body, which is essential for the healthy function of every part of the body.

    • You can look for store-bought foods that include Omega 3s, or you can give your dog Omega 3 supplements. Check with your vet before beginning this course of treatment.[14]

Part3

Determining Whether Your Dog had a Stroke

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    Watch your dog’s movements. You may not be present when your dog has a stroke, so it’s important to know the warning signs that one has occurred. Your pup may become imbalanced, lean to the side, or be completely incapable of walking. Other pets begin walking in circles because they are disoriented. If you notice any of these telltale signs, proceed to your nearest emergency pet hospital or your veterinarian’s office if possible.[15]
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    Look at your dog’s eyes. If their eyes are moving rapidly from side to side, they may be having a stroke or they may have had one previously. This is called nystagmus, and it may also cause your dog to be unable to focus their eyes. Nystagmus may not happen constantly, but following a stroke or during a stroke, you will likely see some indicator that your dog’s eyes are unfocused, rapidly moving, or irregularly positioned (cross-eyed).[16]
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    Count your dog’s breaths. Rapid breathing is another early indicator your dog is experiencing a stroke, may have a stroke, or has already had a stroke. Many dogs pant as though they are too warm, but in others, you will simply see their sides rising and falling very quickly. Other dogs may seem to struggle to breathe in at all and look and act as though they are gasping for air.[17]

    • Typically, dogs breathe between ten and thirty-five times each minute. To check your dog’s rate of respiration, set a timer for fifteen seconds. Count your dog’s heart beats and multiply by four. If your dog’s resting heartbeat is above thirty-five, seek medical assistance.[18]
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    Monitor your dog’s food intake. Stroke affects some dogs the way carsickness does. It causes dizziness and nausea which may lead to vomiting and loss of appetite. If your dog seems suddenly unwilling or unable to eat or vomits frequently following meals, this may be a warning sign of stroke.[19]
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    Check for bright red eyelids and gums. This discoloration indicates your pup has had a decrease in the amount of oxygen circulation. Dark red coloring inside the eyelids and mouth is one of the most noticeable changes that occurs when dogs have recently suffered a stroke.[20]

reference: https://www.wikihow.com/Help-Your-Dog-Through-a-Stroke

How to Give a Newborn Puppy CPR

The birth of new puppies can be an exciting experience for owners and breeders alike. However, there are times when newborn puppies may face life-threatening problems like heart or respiratory failure. In this event, you’ll have to administer CPR. However, performing CPR on a newborn puppy is challenging due to the size and fragility of the pup. Ultimately, though, by taking appropriate actions, breathing for the puppy, performing chest compressions, and repeating steps as needed, you’ll increase the puppy’s chance of surviving.

Part1

Taking Actions Before CPR

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    Call a vet, if possible. The moment you realize that the puppy needs CPR, you should have someone call a vet. A vet may be able to walk you through the CPR process and will provide information about care after CPR.

    • Only call if there is a second person available so that in the meantime one of you can perform CPR.
    • Have the person call a vet you are familiar with, if possible.
    • Inform the vet of the puppy’s breed, approximate size, and any other relevant information.[1]
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    Verify that the puppy’s airway is clear. Take a few seconds and gently examine the puppy’s mouth and throat to make sure that the puppy’s airway is free from obstructions. If it is, you can proceed with CPR.

    • Gently pick up the puppy.
    • Gently pull the puppy’s tongue out of the mouth to make sure it is not blocking the airway.
    • If the airway is obstructed, try to dislodge it by pulling it out with a single hooked finger, two fingers, or tongs. However, be very careful and avoid pushing it further into the airway. If possible, have someone hold a light so you can view the obstruction.[2]
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    Lower the puppy’s head. Before continuing, you need to lower the puppy’s head. This is important, as it’ll allow you to you to make sure the puppy’s airway is clear – something that is necessary before performing CPR.

    • Hold the puppy.
    • Lay or point the puppy’s head downward so any fluid will naturally drain out of its mouth.
    • Make sure to provide support for the puppy’s head.
    • Handle the puppy gently.[3]
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    Remove fluid from the puppy’s mouth and throat. Before continuing, you need to make sure that the puppy’s mouth and throat are free from secretion, slobber, or other liquid that might hinder the CPR process.

    • Wipe mucus or other fluid away from the puppy’s nose or mouth with a cloth or article of clothing.
    • Use a suction bulb to remove fluid, if necessary.[4]
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    Decide how to handle the puppy. Since the size of newborn puppies varies based on breed, you’ll have to quickly decide whether you are most comfortable holding or laying the puppy on a flat surface.

    • Perform CPR holding the puppy, if it is small enough for you to do so comfortably.
    • Lay the puppy down on the ground on their right side, if the puppy is too big to hold comfortably.
    • Have someone else hold or assist you with holding the puppy, if possible.

Part2

Breathing for Your Puppy

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    Put your mouth around the puppy’s nose and mouth. To effectively resuscitate the puppy, you’ll have to breathe for the puppy. Breathing is the foundation of CPR.

    • Place the puppy on a flat surface and lay them on their right side.
    • Alternatively, you can also use your hand to form a tight seal around the puppy’s nose and mouth, put your mouth to your hand, and provide breaths through your hand.
    • Know that diseases like Brucellosis may be transmitted from puppies to humans through fluids. Use the hand method to protect from this danger.[5]
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    Provide two or three small breaths. After you’ve formed a seal around the puppy’s mouth and nose, you need to begin breathing for the puppy. Make sure you perform this function calmly and slowly, as you don’t want to injure the puppy.

    • Make sure your breaths are small and measured. The puppy’s lungs are very small. Blowing too much air may damage it.
    • Do not fully exhale.
    • Provide a pause of 1 second between each breath.[6]
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    See if the puppy begins breathing. Your most certain sign of success is a breathing puppy. Look at the puppy’s chest. If you don’t observe breathing, you need to continue CPR.

    • If you do not feel or observe a heartbeat or breathing, you need to move on to chest compressions.[7]

Part3

Performing Chest Compressions

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    Search for a heartbeat. After breathing for your puppy, you need to search to see if its heart has restarted. While you should do this quickly, you also need to make sure you stay focused and do not panic.

    • Place the puppy on a flat surface.
    • Put your index and middle finger on the chest wall to feel for a heartbeat.
    • Use a stethoscope, if you have one.
    • If you don’t locate a heartbeat, you’ll need to perform chest compressions.[8]
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    Position your hands. After you’ve confirmed that there is no heartbeat, you need to position your hands. Positioning your hands is one of the major tasks of CPR – as you want to make sure that they are in the appropriate position to apply pressure to the heart.

    • Put your thumbs and forefingers around the puppy’s chest.
    • Your thumbs should be in the middle of the chest, behind the front legs.[9]
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    Compress the puppy’s chest. If you feel no heartbeat, you need to compress the puppy’s chest rapidly. Compression is intended to help restart the heart.

    • Push down with a light touch but enough to compress the chest 30% of its full width. Allow the chest to expand before giving another compression.[10]
    • Create 17 compressions every 10 seconds. If you have someone with you, have them count out the 10 seconds for you.
    • Stop if you notice a heartbeat or breathing.[11]

Part4

Repeating the Process

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    Repeat breathing. After compressing the chest, you need to breathe for the puppy again. This is important, as many dogs do not respond immediate to the first breaths or compressions.

    • Perform mouth to snout every 15 to 20 seconds.
    • Be very gentle and remember not to breathe too hard.
    • Check for signs of breathing.[12]
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    Continue chest compressions. Whenever you complete your repetitions of breathing, you should also perform more chest compressions. When repeating chest compressions, make sure to:

    • Check for a heartbeat.
    • Position your hands appropriately.
    • Rapidly, but gently, compress the puppy’s chest.[13]
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    Perform CPR as needed. In some circumstances, you may need to continue CPR for what seems like a long time before you notice results. You should, however, continue to perform CPR as long as you think there is hope of resuscitating the puppy.

    • Don’t give up too early.
    • You may perform CPR for up to 20 minutes.[14]
    • The success rate for CPR on pets is relatively low – less than one in ten. If you cannot resuscitate the puppy, it is probably not your fault.[15]
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    Care for the puppy after resuscitation. If you succeed in getting the puppy breathing again, you need to continue care. Ultimately, the puppy won’t be out of danger until they can breathe on their own for an extended amount of time.

    • Get your puppy to the veterinarian as soon as possible after successfully resuscitating it. Respiratory or cardiac arrest can recur even after a successful resuscitation.
    • After resuscitation, you will need to monitor your puppy for signs of distress for up to 48 hours.
    • Turn your puppy right side up and rub it with a towel after you resuscitate it.
    • If your puppy starts to breathe and stops again, continue giving it small breaths until it breathes on its own.[16]

    reference: https://www.wikihow.com/Give-a-Newborn-Puppy-CPR

How to Get a Dog to Vomit

You come back home and notice your dog isn’t looking very well. After looking around your house, you discover that your dog has gotten into a potentially harmful substance—one that could be life threatening if it stays in your dog’s system. Although getting a dog to vomit is never pleasant, it can be an important first step in ridding a dog’s body of a toxin. To get your dog to vomit, learn how to administer hydrogen peroxide, get veterinary care, and follow general guidelines on inducing vomiting.
Part1

Administering Hydrogen Peroxide

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    Determine if your dog needs to vomit. Before inducing vomit, make sure it is the right thing to do. If your dog swallowed any of the following substances, you should induce vomiting at home:

    • Antifreeze, if your dog swallowed it in the past two hours[1]
    • Chocolate[2]
    • Grapes or raisins[3]
    • Tylenol or Aspirin[4]
    • Plants, such as azaleas and daffodils[5]
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    Move your dog to a different area. If your dog is laying on its bed or on the carpet, you’ll want to move your dog somewhere else before inducing vomiting. For example, take your dog outside or move your dog to an area where cleaning up vomit will be easy, like a room with linoleum flooring.[6]

    • If your dog is weak, it may not be able to walk easily on its own. You may need to carry your dog or at least help it walk to where you want it to go.
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    Feed your dog a small meal. At first, it may seem strange to feed your dog to get it to vomit. However, feeding your dog a little food can actually increase the chances of vomiting. A small portion of canned food or a slice of plain bread are good food choices.[7]

    • Canned food will be easy for your dog to eat and is tastier than dry food.
    • Your dog may not want to eat on its own. If this happens, try putting the food directly in your dog’s mouth to get it to eat.
    • Do not spend a lot of time trying to get your dog to eat.
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    Call your vet or animal poison control center. This is very important! Do not try to get your dog to vomit before calling your vet or animal poison control center.[8] When you call, provide as much information as possible so they can instruct you on what to do (and what not to do) next. Important information includes:

    • What you think your dog ingested (toxic plant, house cleaning product, chocolate)
    • How long you think it’s been since your dog ingested the toxin
    • Your dog’s symptoms
    • Your dog’s size
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    Determine how much 3% hydrogen peroxide your dog will need. If your vet or poison control center says it’s okay to induce vomiting, give your dog 3% hydrogen peroxide, which is available at your local pharmacy. It is the preferred vomit-inducing product for dogs.[9] Give your dog one teaspoon hydrogen peroxide per 10 pounds (4.5 kg) of body weight.[10]

    • Use a measuring spoon to measure the right amount of hydrogen peroxide.
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    Administer the hydrogen peroxide. Draw up the hydrogen peroxide into an ear or eye dropper.[11] Drop the measured amount of hydrogen peroxide as far back on your dog’s tongue as you can.[12]

    • Do not mix hydrogen peroxide into your dog’s food or water before drawing it up in the dropper.[13]
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    Walk your dog. Walking can stimulate vomiting by letting your dog’s stomach contents mix with the hydrogen peroxide.[14] Walk your dog for a few minutes. If your dog isn’t up to walking, gently shake or move its belly.[15]
  8. 8

    Wait for your dog to vomit. After being given hydrogen peroxide, dogs usually vomit within a few minutes. If your dog does not vomit after 10 minutes, give it another dose of hydrogen peroxide.[16]

    • Some sources say not to give a dog more than two doses of hydrogen peroxide.[17] Others say up to three doses is acceptable.[18] Before giving a third dose, call your vet.

Part2

Receiving Veterinary Care

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    Take your dog to your vet. Your dog will need to be treated by your vet, even if you got your dog to vomit. Vomiting is just a quick fix and will not get rid of all the toxin in your dog’s stomach.[19] Veterinary care is essential if your dog didn’t vomit—this means your dog will need something stronger than hydrogen peroxide to vomit.[20]

    • Do not get delay in getting your dog to your vet.
    • If your dog vomited, take a picture of it to show to your vet.
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    Tell your vet what happened. Even if you already spoke to your vet before giving your dog hydrogen peroxide, it will be helpful to repeat what happened while your vet examines your dog. You should also tell your vet how much hydrogen peroxide you gave your dog and how many times you gave the hydrogen peroxide.

    • If your dog vomited, describe what the vomit looked like, or show the picture of the vomit.
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    Allow your vet to treat your dog. Your vet has access to medications that can induce vomiting, as well as substances that can prevent toxin absorption. For example, your vet can give your dog activated charcoal, which will bind to the toxin in the digestive system and prevent absorption.[21]

    • Apomorphine is an opioid medication that can induce vomiting. It usually works within five to ten minutes.[22]
    • A drug called xylazine can also induce vomiting in dogs.[23]
    • Your vet will determine the best way to treat your dog’s ingestion of a toxic substance.

Part3

Learning Other Tips for Inducing Vomiting

  1. 1

    Research which substances should not be vomited up. Some substances, after being ingested, can cause a lot of damage if vomited back up. If you know your dog swallowed one of the following substances, do not induce vomiting:[24]

    • Bleach
    • Drain cleaner
    • Petroleum-containing substance, such as gasoline
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    Look for signs of serious poisoning. Getting a dog to vomit can be dangerous if the dog is extremely sick or unresponsive. If your dog is showing signs of severe poisoning, do not induce vomiting. Take your dog to your vet right away. Look for the following signs indicating severe poisoning:[25]

    • Difficulty breathing
    • Looking depressed
    • Having seizures
    • Slow heart rate
    • Unconscious
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    Do not use ipecac or salt to induce vomiting. Syrup of ipecac used to be recommended for inducing vomiting in dogs. However, it can linger in the stomach and cause a lot of stomach irritation if a dog doesn’t vomit. Salt is also no longer recommended because it can become toxic if a dog is given too much of it.[26]
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    Induce vomiting promptly. If possible, get your dog to vomit within about two hours after it has ingested something toxic.[27] After two hours, the toxin will have moved into the intestines, making induction of vomiting no longer effective.[28]

reference: https://www.wikihow.com/Get-a-Dog-to-Vomit

How to Diagnose Yellow Foamy Vomit in Dogs

A dog will vomit when something upsets its stomach. When your dog’s vomit is yellow and foamy, the yellow fluid you see is bile. After a meal, bile normally flows from the gallbladder into the small intestine to help break down fats.[1] However, on an empty stomach, bile can enter the stomach and irritate the stomach lining enough to cause vomiting; this is called ‘bilious vomiting syndrome.’[2] Be observant when your dog’s vomit is yellow and foamy, then take your dog to your vet for a diagnosis.

Part1

Observing Vomiting Behavior

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    Notice when your dog vomits. Dogs that vomit bile usually do so late in the evening or early in the morning. This is because a dog’s stomach usually empties about two hours after a meal.[3] By late evening or early morning, your dog’s stomach will have been empty for a long time, allowing time for bile to irritate the stomach lining.

    • Consider keeping a written log of when you see your dog vomiting. If your dog vomits yellow and foamy fluid before its morning meal or several hours after its evening meal, then your dog likely has bilious vomiting syndrome.
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    Examine the vomit. Yellow and foamy vomit will not have any food particles in it because the stomach is empty. Vomit with partially digested food will also have bile, but the bile will not be as easy to see. If your dog initially vomits partially digested food and then continues vomiting, the stomach will eventually be empty and you will see only the yellow and foamy fluid.[4]
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    Detect pain or distress during vomiting episodes. Vomiting is not a pleasant experience for dogs. Besides the distress of vomiting, your dog may have some abdominal pain because of bile’s irritation of the stomach lining.[5] Below are signs of distress that your dog may have during a vomiting episode:[6]

    • Licking the lips
    • Drooling
    • Repeatedly swallowing

Part2

Getting a Veterinary Diagnosis

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    Take your dog to your vet. By itself, bilious vomiting syndrome is not a serious problem in dogs. However, it can lead to other problems. Therefore, if your dog is vomiting bile, do not delay with taking your dog to your vet.[7] The sooner your vet can diagnose this syndrome, the sooner your dog can receive treatment and not develop health problems related to vomiting bile.
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    Have your vet examine your dog. Your vet will perform a physical examination. During the physical exam, describe the vomiting episodes in as much detail as possible: when your dog vomits, what the vomit looks like, and how long the vomiting has been going on. The more information you give your vet, the better able they’ll be able to diagnose your dog.
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    Learn about why dogs vomit bile. Although it’s well known that dogs vomit bile when they have an empty stomach, it’s not clearly known how the bile gets into the stomach in the first place.[8] Some potential causes of bile abnormally flowing into the stomach include inflammatory bowel diseases, internal parasites (Giardia), and intestinal blockage.[9]

reference: https://www.wikihow.com/Diagnose-Yellow-Foamy-Vomit-in-Dogs

How to Diagnose Gastric Torsion and Bloat in Labrador Retrievers

Gastric torsion and bloat, or GDV, is a serious veterinary emergency in dogs. It involves the stomach filling with air and then twisting along its long axis.[1] As the stomach twists, it cuts off blood supply to the stomach tissues along with associated other tissues connected to the outside of the stomach. Needless to say, this causes serious consequences to the health of the affected dog and if you suspect your dog has this problem please call your veterinarian or veterinary emergency clinic immediately! Because this condition is so serious, as a Lab owner you should know how to spot the signs and what to do once you suspect it is occurring.

Part1

Looking For the Signs of Gastric Torsion and Bloat

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    Look for the first signs of gastric torsion and bloat. It is important to spot this condition as quickly as possible, in order to get it treated swiftly. Initially, the signs of include:[2]

    • The dog appears uncomfortable with an anxious or stressed appearance.
    • The dog may stretch or pace.
    • The belly begins to get large or tight.
    • Drool or excessive saliva will fall from its mouth.
    • The dog will try to vomit but nothing comes out.
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    Pay attention to the signs of shock. If nothing is done at the beginning of the dog’s condition, it will quickly get worse. The signs of shock will develop as the involved tissue begins to die and toxins are released into the blood stream. These signs include:[3]

    • Weak pulses in the legs
    • Difficulty breathing
    • Pale gums
    • Rapid heartbeat
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    Keep a close eye on large-breed dogs. It appears that large breed dogs with deep chests are predisposed to develop this condition.[4] This means that Labrador retrievers are prone to this condition.

    • It may be that a narrow thorax is responsible for the higher rates of GDV in large, deep-chested breeds.[5]
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    Watch for signs in big dogs that eat quickly. The eating behavior of the dog can also influence the development of GDV. Dog’s that are “greedy” eaters, gulping their food down and swallowing air as they gulp, can fill their stomachs with air. This means that those that are fed only one large meal a day can develop GDV more easily.

    • To decrease the risk of GDV, feed your Lab small and frequent feedings of its dog food. This means splitting up the total daily food amount into two or, better yet, three feedings.
    • Dogs that gulp their food can be slowed down by the use of a slow feeder. A slow feeder is simply a food bowl that has large pillars inside it that the dog has to work around to get to the food.[6]
    • The type of food fed can also effect the chances of developing GDV. Dry food listing oil(s) as one of the first four ingredients has been implicated in this condition.[7]

Part2

Getting a Veterinary Diagnosis

  1. 1

    Take your dog to the veterinarian as soon as possible. It is important to get your Lab under the care of a veterinarian quickly so that it can get treatment. Call your veterinary office and tell them about the situation. They should get you in immediately on an emergency basis.

    • If your veterinary clinic is not open, take your dog to an emergency dog clinic or hospital.
    • Gastric torsion and bloat are very, very serious. This is because the dilation of the stomach and subsequent twisting does not only affect the stomach. It can compress big arteries and veins in the abdomen, which can drop blood pressure and affect the liver. This can lead to shock and a serious, sometimes deadly, condition called disseminated intravascular coagulation or excessive blood clotting.[8] The heart can also be affected by arrhythmia, or an irregular heartbeat.[9]
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    Approve additional testing. Your veterinarian may want to do additional testing to get a better sense of the overall health of the dog. Dogs that are suspected of having GDV will have blood work done at the veterinary clinic, which will include a complete blood count and blood chemistry tests.

    • These tests may show the dog to be dehydrated, toxic and/or in shock.
    • In addition, radiographs, or possibly an ultrasound, of the abdomen will performed. Radiographs (or X-rays) will show an air or fluid-filled stomach with a tell-tale sign called “double-bubble” or “Popeye’s arm,” in which the twisted stomach appears as two air filled bubbles.[10]
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    Follow your veterinarian’s suggestions for treatment. The immediate goal of treatment is to restart circulation through the stomach.[11] Once a firm diagnosis is made, the dog will need to be stabilized with fluids and medication. It will then be taken to surgery to decompress and untwist the stomach.

    • Even after surgery, the dog will not be out of danger for a few days, due to the severe intestinal and circulatory problems this condition causes.

How to Diagnose Bloat in Great Danes

Have you noticed your Great Dane acting restless or uncomfortable? If you see a change in behavior along with swelling of his abdomen, he may have bloat (also known as gastric torsion, twisted stomach, Gastric Dilatation-Volvulus (GDV). Bloat is a potentially life-threatening condition. Large breed dogs such as Great Danes, Irish Wolfhounds as well as other large chested dogs are predisposed to because of the additional space it creates in their abdomen. Great Danes are by the most common breed to get bloat and was shown to occur in over 42% of all Great Danes.[1] The stomach can swell or become twisted during several stages while your dog rapidly deteriorates. Be aware of the symptoms of bloat and get immediate veterinary help. This will give your dog the best chance of survival.[2]

Part1

Watching For Signs of Bloat

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    Look for swelling. Your dog’s stomach may be swollen if it makes a tympanic, drum-like sound when you flick it. This means the stomach is full of gas. While swelling is the most obvious symptom of bloat, it can be difficult to spot in Great Danes because of their large size. If you’re unsure whether your Great Dane has a swollen stomach, discuss your concerns with a veterinarian rather than wait for symptoms to improve. Early treatment of bloat can greatly increase chances of survival.[3] Increasing stomach pressure may lead to:[4][5]

    • Swelling
    • Closing of the stomach so that it becomes sealed full of air
    • Shutting down of blood supply to the stomach wall
    • Decreased blood supply to major organs
    • Organ failure
    • Toxin buildup in the blood stream
    • Shock from major swings in electrolytes and blood pressure
    • Death from low blood pressure and toxin buildup
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    Check your dog’s mouth. Lift up your Great Dane’s lips and look at his gums. They should be a healthy pink color and color should quickly return if you press the gums and release your finger. If you notice pale or ashen gums or the gums remain blanched white after you press them, your dog may have bloat.

    • If your dog’s gums are unusually dark red, blue, or white, get medical attention immediately.[6]
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    Pay attention to breathing and pulse. Your dog may have bloat if he has labored breathing that sounds heavy and rapid. It might sound like your dog is panting instead of breathing. If he has bloat, your Great Dane’s pulse will also be rapid as though he just exercised.[7]

    • Under normal conditions, a Great Dane’s heart rate is around one beat per second. He should also breathe every two to three seconds during rest.[8]
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    Watch for drooling. Your Great Dane may drool heavily and have strings of saliva hanging from his mouth. This happens when the stomach is sealed off, leaving swallowed saliva nowhere to go. The Great Dane gives up swallowing and drools instead.[9]

    • You may also notice your dog dry retching. If your dog has eaten recently, but is dry heaving contact a veterinarian immediately.[10] This is a classic sign of bloat.
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    Consider your dog’s body type. Dogs that are deep chested and narrow-bodied are at high risk of bloat. Because of their unique anatomy, Great Danes are at the highest risk of suffering from bloat. A Great Dane’s large stomach is suspended in only two places within the abdomen, like a hammock. If the stomach is full of food and gas, it can become unstable and flip over on itself, especially if the Great Dane exercises or rolls after eating.[11]

    • Other breeds that are at high risk for bloat include: German Shepherds, Irish Setters, Red Setters, St. Bernards, and Weimaraners.

Part2

Diagnosing Bloat

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    Monitor your dog’s behavior. Most noticeably, your Great Dane may be uncomfortable and unable to settle. He may also look anxious and frequently glance at his flanks, where you might notice swelling as air fills his stomach. As the bloat worsens, your dog may become increasingly distressed. He may whine or howl to vocalize his pain and discomfort. If untreated, he will go into shock and might collapse as his circulation system fails.[12]

    • Bloat is usually associated with recently eating a meal. After eating, you may notice your Great Dane become restless and pace around.
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    Contact a veterinarian. If you suspect your dog has bloat, get veterinary attention immediately. Call or meet with the veterinarian to discuss your Great Dane’s symptoms. Since early treatment is vital, it’s better to be overly cautious and get medical attention as soon as you see signs of bloat.

    • Even with veterinary care, around 25-33% of dogs with bloat die, so early treatment is important.[13]
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    Get a physical examination. The veterinarian will feel your dog’s abdomen for signs of tympany (gas build up) and check for signs of shock. If bloat is suspected, the veterinarian might insert a large bore catheter into the stomach where there’s the greatest buildup of gas. This will remove the immediate pressure.[14]

    • Your Great Dane probably has bloat if foul smelling gas comes out through the catheter.
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    Get further testing. The veterinarian may want to confirm a diagnosis of bloat with additional testing. In one test, your Great Dane will lay on his side while an x-ray is taken of the front of his abdomen. The veterinarian may confirm bloat if the x-ray shows a stomach dilated with air and soft tissue running across it.[15]

    • The veterinarian may also order an ultrasound to look at the location of the spleen. However, it’s more likely that the vet will want to begin relieving stomach pressure and corrective surgery instead.

    reference: https://www.wikihow.com/Diagnose-Bloat-in-Great-Danes

How to Diagnose and Treat Dog Diarrhea

When your dog has diarrhea you want them to get better as quickly as possible. Most dogs experience diarrhea because they ate something that upset their stomachs. This type of diarrhea can be easily treated at home. Dogs that have diarrhea for long periods of time might be suffering from an underlying condition that your veterinarian will have to diagnose and treat.

1

Taking Your Dog to the Vet

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    Assess your dog’s overall health, apart from the diarrhea. If your dog is well apart from the diarrhea, and has recently eaten something decidedly dodgy, then blood tests and fecal analysis may be a waste of both your time and money. Some dogs have more sensitive stomachs than others and yours may have eaten something that upset it.[1]

    • If you know that your dog has eaten something they shouldn’t have recently, like garbage or feces, make sure that your dog can’t continue to eat this.
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    Look for warning signs that your dog needs medical attention. In most cases, diarrhea can be treated safely and effectively at home. There are cases where your dog needs to be taken to the veterinarian so they can assess their condition and begin treatment. Keep an eye out for the following symptoms. If your dog begins displaying these, take them to the veterinarian immediately:[2]

    • Black or tarry stool
    • Stool with bright red fresh blood
    • Frequent vomiting
    • Loss of appetite
    • Signs of abdominal pain (like bloating, groaning, or avoidance when their belly is touched)
    • Marked lethargy
    • Symptoms lasting longer than 48 hours
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    Tell your vet your dog’s history. In this context the “history” refers to relevant information about your dog, such as the dog’s vaccination status (vaccines protect against some of the viral causes of diarrhea), recent diet, and the animals he has been mixing with.

    • This history should include a detailed description of what the diarrhea looks like and how often your dog has been experiencing diarrhea. This information helps the vet to pinpoint whereabouts in the gut the diarrhea originates from.[3]
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    Get a diagnosis from your vet. Based on the veterinarian’s physical exam of the dog, the vet will then decide if additional medical tests are necessary, or if their diarrhea can be treated at home. Your vet may recommend additional testing to rule out other conditions when your dog has chronic diarrhea, which lasts more than four or five days.[4]

    • They may also recommend more testing if your dog loses weight, isn’t responding to bland diets or fasting, or if your dog is displaying other symptoms of a medical condition like a parasite.
    • At this point, they will either diagnose your dog with acute or chronic diarrhea.
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    Collect a fecal specimen for your vet. Based on your veterinarian’s recommendation, you may need to collect a fecal sample from your dog. The vet will then send this sample to a lab to diagnose different medical conditions like parasites, GI disease, or a vitamin deficiency.[5]The vet will give you a fecal specimen container to return once you’ve collected a sample.

    • Simply scoop a small volume of feces up with the collecting spoon and pop it in the pot, then screw the lid back on. You want to collect a sample immediately after your dog defecates.[6]
    • Once you’ve returned the sample to your vet, they will send it to a lab for testing. There, the laboratory technician will examine the sample for any identifiable conditions, like parasites.
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    Schedule your dog for a blood test. If your vet thinks that the diarrhea may be caused by an underlying medical condition, they will want to do a blood test for your dog. Some of the medical conditions that the vet will look for include liver disease or pancreatitis. [7]

    • These blood tests look at organ function and the balance of red and white cells in the body. This gives information about organ health, protein levels, anemia, and signs of infection. In turn these results may suggest a more specific line of investigation that is necessary to diagnose a problem for which diarrhea is merely a symptom.[8]
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    Have the vet perform a bowel test. This test is usually saved for last, and will only be scheduled if the fecal analysis and blood tests come back normal or negative, despite their diarrhea continuing. These tests look at pancreatic function, any inflammation, and bowel health.[9] They will use this information to find out if your dog is suffering from a medical condition. If they do find signs that your dog does have a condition like a pancreatic disease, the vet can begin treatment. The treatment for the disease will usually end up stopping your dog’s diarrhea as well.

    • The vet will also suggest these tests if your dog is losing weight rapidly, despite treatment.
    • The vet may skip straight to these tests if your dog’s medical history suggests that he may lack pancreatic enzymes.
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    Get imaging done. Imaging includes radiography and ultrasound. Imaging tends to be reserved for dogs that are losing weight and still have diarrhea, but all of the other tests listed above have come back normal. [10]

    • Imaging allows the vet to take a look at the bowel and see if it looks normal. In particular, this can help to rule out bowel inflammation and cancer.[11]
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    Have your dog’s bowel biopsied as a last resort. A bowel biopsy is invasive, and has a high complication rate, so it is generally avoided when possible. A biopsy involves surgically entering a dog’s abdomen and removing slivers of bowel wall to be sent for testing.[12]

    • Your veterinarian will discuss the risks, but bowel biopsy is a procedure of last resort and it may well be worth using information from previous tests to decide on a “educated guess” treatment (diagnosis by treatment), before resorting to biopsy.

2

Treating Acute Diarrhea

  1. 1

    Recognize acute diarrhea. Many dogs have an upset stomach but are not sick in any other way. This means that while they have diarrhea, they are otherwise healthy. Diarrhea that occurs suddenly and stops after your dog fasts or has a bland food diet is acute.

    • For these dogs treatments like withholding food and then re-introducing a bland diet may be all that is needed.[13]
  2. 2

    Fast your dog. Diarrhea is a symptom of gastrointestinal (GI) distress. For a dog experiencing acute diarrhea, their stomach and GI tract need time to recover after they have had diarrhea. Do not feed your dog for 24 hours after they have experienced diarrhea.[14]

    • This 24 hour period gives your dog’s GI tract a chance to recover and heal.
    • Continue to give your dog small amounts of water so they do not become dehydrated.
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    Try feeding them a bland diet. After your dog has completed the 24 hour period without diarrhea, you can reintroduce food. Healthy dogs that are suffering from diarrhea may only need a few days of bland food to reduce their discomfort. Rather than feeding them their regular dog food, try feeding them a bland food diet for 24 hours.

    • Offer your pet a small meal of boiled chicken and white rice. Do not use any seasonings when you cook the food as they may upset your dog’s stomach.[15]
    • You can continue feeding your dog this bland food diet until their stool becomes normal again.[16]
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    Give your dog probiotics. Diarrhea physically expels the bacteria in the bowel that help your dog digest food. To speed up recovery, it helps to give your dog a dietary supplement that contains helpful bacteria to help get your dog’s digestive system back on track.[17]

    • There are many canine probiotics available without prescription from your veterinary clinic, such as Promax (an oral paste) or Fortiflora (granules which are added to food). Typically these are given once a day for three days.
    • Dogs use different digestive bacteria than people do, so there is no point feeding your dog a human probiotic product.

3

Treating Chronic Diarrhea

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    Determine if your dog has chronic diarrhea. If your dog’s diarrhea is the result of an infection or disease, rather than snacking on something he shouldn’t, then medical treatment may be needed. Your veterinarian will recommend the best course of treatment for your dog based on their diagnosis.[18]

    • It is important to treat the underlying cause of chronic diarrhea rather than just the diarrheal symptoms.[19]
    • Never give your dog over the counter medicine unless you have spoken to your veterinarian. These medicines, while they may work for acute diarrhea, could aggravate your dog’s underlying condition and make them worse.
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    Treat parasites. One of the common underlying causes of diarrhea is the presence of intestinal parasites, like worms. If the fecal analysis shows the presence of worms, your veterinarian will recommend an oral medicine to kill the parasites and then an additional medicine to prevent future parasites.[20]

    • A single oral dose will get rid of the parasites present at that moment in time. It is wise to repeat the dose a month later.[21]
    • It is important to use preventative care when it comes to parasites in your dog. By using a preventative oral or topical medicine, you can lessen the chances that your dog will experience diarrhea from this condition.[22]
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    Try putting your dog on a hypoallergenic diet. If a dietary allergy or food hypersensitivity is suspected, then removing the allergen from the diet will treat your dog’s diarrhea. Your vet will recommend a commercial prescription hypoallergenic diet for your dog.[23]

    • By changing your dog’s diet to remove this allergen, their diarrhea should stop.
    • Changing foods can also upset your dog’s stomach, so you will need to gradually introduce this new food by mixing it with their old food.
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    Give your dog vitamin B injections. Some dogs with chronic diarrhea experience this condition because they have an enzyme deficiency. Injections of B vitamins will replace the enzymes that your dog isn’t naturally producing. This kind of treatment is usually seen in dogs that have pancreatic conditions.

    • Injections will be stopped once your dog’s enzyme levels are high enough and their chronic diarrhea stops.

Reference: https://www.wikihow.com/Diagnose-and-Treat-Dog-Diarrhea

How to Cure Frequent Dog Vomiting

It is distressing when your dog is sick and starts to vomit. Aside from the mess, vomiting can also signal that there is something seriously wrong with your dog. In most cases vomiting will soon pass, however, some dogs vomit regularly without an immediately obvious cause. These cases can be more difficult to resolve because you need to figure out the underlying cause of the vomiting in order to treat the symptom.

Part1

Diagnosing the Cause of Vomiting

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    Determine if your dog simply has an upset stomach. Acute vomiting happens suddenly and forcefully. The dog vomits and vomits until there is nothing left in its stomach to vomit, except for yellow bile.[1] If your dog has an upset stomach, this acute vomiting should pass quickly.

    • If you know your dog has eaten a food or substance that does not agree with it immediately stop your dog from gaining access to that item.
    • Non-specific gastroenteritis, otherwise known as an upset stomach, means no cause for the stomach upset can be found and the illness passes rather quickly. The other common causes of acute vomiting generally need medical or surgical intervention to diagnose and treat.
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    Consider other causes if acute vomiting continues. Many things can cause episodes of acute vomiting. Common causes, other than non-specific gastroenteritis, include:[2]

    • Liver disease
    • Kidney disease
    • Pancreatitis
    • A foreign body in the intestines (rocks, bones, toy)
    • Ingestion of toxic substances
    • Inflammation of the intestinal tract
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    Determine if your dog has a chronic problem. Chronic vomiting is vomiting that happens off and on with some regularity. While it is normal for a dog to vomit occasionally, due to an upset stomach, this behavior on a consistent basis can signal that there is a larger health problem.
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    Understand the difference between vomiting and regurgitating. Some cases that are thought to be vomiting are actually cases of regurgitation.[3] Vomiting is the ejection of food from the stomach. Generally there are some “warning” signs before vomiting, such as licking the lips, salivation or acting uncomfortable. With regurgitation, food is ejected from the esophagus generally without force and without warning. It is important to recognize the differences between the two, as they have different causes. For example, regurgitation is caused by disorders with the esophagus such as:[4]

    • Esophagus weakness due to diseases such as myasthenia gravis and Addison’s disease
    • Megaesophagus (non-reversible enlargement of the esophagus)
    • Foreign body stuck in the esophagus
    • Inflammation especially that caused by frequent vomiting
    • Stricture or narrowing of the esophagus (this generally happens after injury to the esophagus)
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    Get a veterinary diagnosis. Because of the many sources and causes of vomiting, it can be hard to figure out the most appropriate treatment. The first step to curing the problem is coming up with an accurate diagnosis of the problem.

    • Most of the time to get an accurate diagnosis you need to bring your dog to the veterinarian. An examination will be performed and, depending on the results, further testing may need to be done. Blood and urine tests can determine if your dog suffers from a disease, such as kidney or liver failure, pancreatitis, or if an infection may be causing the vomiting. X-rays can help determine if your dog has eaten a foreign body or if there is a mass (tumor) in the gastrointestinal tract.

Part2

Treating Vomiting

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    Treat the dog at home. It is okay to watch your dog closely at home if your dog is still happy and begging for food after it vomits. If it has other symptoms, such as lethargy or spasm, you should take it to the vet immediately.

    • Keep your dog happy but it is also a good idea to protect your home from additional messes. Place the dog in a room with hard floors, in other words no carpet, so that any future vomiting can be easily cleaned up. Keep it company, however, and try to soothe it with lots of love and affection.
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    Feed the dog a bland diet after 12 hours of fasting. The treatment for dogs with upset stomachs is to withhold all food for 12 hours (despite the begging) and give them small amounts of water every 2-3 hours during this time. If they are able to keep the water down after 12 hours of food withholding, you can offer them two teaspoons (for a small dog), two tablespoons (for a medium sized dog), or ¼ cup (for a large dog) of a bland diet.

    • A bland diet consists of carbohydrates and proteins that a dog can easily digest. The most common bland diet to give a dog is a mixture of cooked white rice and boiled chicken, without bones or skin.[5] This meal gives your dog’s digestive system a break because it is very easy to digest.
    • If the dog can keep the first small amounts down, offer the diet in these same amounts every 3 – 4 hours for the first day. Then mix it with the dog’s regular food half and half the next day. By day three, the dog should be back to its regular food and feeding amount.
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    Continue to monitor your dog’s health. Even after your dog has stopped vomiting, you should still keep a close eye on them for a few days. Call a veterinarian if the following occurs:

    • If the dog is continuously vomiting.
    • If the dog has other signs of illness: diarrhea, extreme lethargy, pale gums, frequent urination, yellow appearance to the eyeballs or skin.
    • If after a 24 hour food withhold the dog is still vomiting.
    • If you have any other concerns or suspect it’s more than a simple case of vomiting.
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    Take the dog to the vet if illness increases. At any time if the dog starts to vomit again or is unable to keep water down it should be brought to a veterinarian’s office. It should also be brought to the veterinarian’s office if any of the following signs occur:

    • Increase in frequency or amount of urination
    • Yellow appearance to eye whites, skin or mouth
    • Pale gums along with extreme lethargy
    • Vomiting blood
    • Diarrhea that is very watery or has blood in it
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    Follow your veterinarian’s treatment plan. Treatment depends upon the cause of the vomiting. Some treatments include:

    • Withholding of food for up to 24 hours, then a gradual reintroduction of food or a bland diet for up to 7 days. The dog can have small drinks of water as long as it is able to keep this down. Otherwise withhold water as well.[6]
    • Medicine to treat intestinal parasites, inflammation, or infection.
    • Surgery to remove foreign bodies.
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    Give ongoing treatment. Ongoing management will be needed in cases of chronic diseases. Food and medication changes are used to manage liver disease, inflammation of the intestinal tract, kidney disease, Addison’s disease, and myasthenia gravis. Food changes may also need to be made in dog’s with sensitive stomachs.[7]

    • In dogs with megaesophagus special feeding arrangements need to be made along with food and medication. These dogs need to be fed in a vertical position, not merely from an elevated bowl, and they need to stay in that position for 20-30 minutes after eating to ensure all the food stays in the stomach. A special chair, called a Bailey chair, can be made or purchased to keep them in this eating position.[8]
    • A soft to wet food diet is also recommended along with medications to increase the movement of the esophagus and to reduce acid from the stomach. With proper feeding position, food and medication dogs with megaesophagus can lead a long and healthy life.

Reference: https://www.wikihow.com/Cure-Frequent-Dog-Vomiting

How to Save a Choking Dog

Dogs use their mouths to explore the world, and, fortunately, their anatomy includes safeguards that make choking rare. But it isn’t impossible for a dog to experience choking, and it’s important that you be able to distinguish between a choking dog and a dog dealing with illness or another issue. In a life-threatening emergency there may not be time to contact a vet, in which case you must administer first-aid yourself; however, if the dog is uncomfortable but not in immediate danger, your better option is to keep them calm and seek veterinary advice. This article explains how determine if your dog is choking, and what to do if so.

Part1

Evaluating Your Dog

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    Check to see if your dog is coughing. Initially, if your dog is capable of coughing, wait a few moments to see if your dog can manage to cough up the obstruction on their own.

    • Only wait for this possibility if your dog seems to be able to breathe well.
    • If your dog is also wheezing, struggling, or gasping for breath, call your vet immediately.
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    2

    Check for signs of choking. Dogs may show several telling behaviors if they aren’t able to breathe. When trying to determine if your dog is choking, begin by first attempting to calm them — the more panicked the dog becomes, the greater their demand for oxygen and the worse the situation. Signs that a dog is choking include:[1]

    • Gagging or drooling excessively — this is one of the most obvious ways to tell if your dog is choking. If they are drooling heavily and unable to swallow, choking is more likely.
    • Unable to swallow
    • Standing in the “air hunger position” with their head and neck held low and in a straight line
    • Acting unusually agitated or frantic, pawing at their mouth, and whimpering
    • Coughing forcefully, wheezing, or gasping for breath
    • Having grey or blue gums
    • Having a visible object in the back of their throat
    • Displaying exaggerated chest movements
    • Collapsing
    • Losing consciousness
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    Encourage your dog to swallow. This is a useful strategy to help you determine if your dog is truly choking.

    • You can do so by offering your dog a treat, gently rubbing their throat, or by pinching their nostrils together. If your dog eats a treat, then they are not choking.
    • Once the dog swallows, if the sound stops, they aren’t choking.
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    Look inside the dog’s mouth. By visually checking the dog’s mouth, you can find out if an object is obstructing its airway and act accordingly.

    • Gently open its mouth by squeezing its upper lip inwards over the big molars at the back of the mouth. At the same time, apply downward pressure on the point of its jaw to further open the mouth.
    • Look as far back towards its throat as possible — it helps to have a flashlight and someone else to hold the dog for this. You are looking for any obstructions such as a piece of bone or a stick.
    • Restrain a larger dog before opening its mouth wide. Do this by grabbing the scruff of hair between the ears and holding the dog’s head steady.[2]
    • If you can see something in the throat, try to grip it with pliers and remove it. Take extreme care not to accidentally force the object further back.
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    Call the vet. If your dog is choking, showing signs of choking, or indeed having breathing difficulties, always phone your vet for advice. The exception to this rule is if your dog has completely collapsed or has lost consciousness. In that instance, begin administering what first-aid you can.

    • You may be talked through first aid procedures while waiting for emergency help and likely you will be asked to bring your pet in immediately.
    • If you cannot reach your vet, look for emergency 24-hour veterinarians. Their number will usually be in the phone book, or you can call a local animal welfare or rescue agency for details. Emergency vets or animal hospitals are usually available in major towns and cities.
    • Your local emergency number will be able to give you the ASPCA or the Humane Society emergency number. They will have an emergency vet to give you help on the phone.
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    Seek out someone else to help. Whether you take your dog to the vet or try to administer first-aid, it’s best to have another person present to help you.

    • If you need to drive your pet to an emergency vet, it is best to have one person with the dog to help immediately if the situation worsens.
    • If the vet has you try to dislodge the object yourself, it’s advisable to do so with someone else’s help.
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    Rule out other causes. Because you can do more harm than good by executing certain maneuvers on a dog that doesn’t need them, it is important to be as certain as possible that the dog is actually choking and in danger, rather than merely appearing to choke. The following are conditions that may cause a dog to behave similarly to a dog that’s choking.

    • A Long Soft Palate: A common anatomical quirk found in many dogs is having a tongue and a soft palate that are too big for their mouth. This is especially common in brachycephalic dogs (those with shortened noses and baby-like faces) such as the Pug, Pekingese, Lhasa Apso, and Shih Tzu, though it also occurs in small breeds such as the Poodle, West Highland White Terrier, Dachshund, Spitz, and Pomeranian. The result is that when the dog breathes in sharply, it physically sucks the end of the soft palate into the entrance of the windpipe. This temporarily narrows or blocks the windpipe, and the dog makes a series of dramatic snorting or gasping sounds, as if choking. This is only a temporary crisis because when the dog swallows, the soft palate flips away from the windpipe and the dog can breathe again. If you’re unsure, give the dog food or a treat. If it takes and swallows the food, it isn’t choking.
    • Kennel Cough: Kennel cough is an infection that causes the airway to become sore, inflamed, and irritable. Even the simple act of breathing in cool air can tickle the throat and trigger coughing episodes. This cough can be dramatic and is commonly mistaken for the dog having something stuck in its throat. Again, check to see if the dog is able to swallow by offering it something to eat. If it can swallow, it is extremely unlikely the dog is choking. Do, however, contact your vet to see if he or she would recommend an examination for the kennel cough.
    • Heart Disease: An enlarged heart pressing on the airways or a heart in failure can sometimes mimic choking. The dog may breathe in a distressed manner, cough, and may even have blue-tinged gums. This condition is harder to differentiate from choking, but in general the signs are slow to develop, with the dog becoming less energetic and more lethargic for a day or two beforehand. Choking, on the other hand, is far more common in active, inquisitive dogs and comes on suddenly.

reference: https://www.wikihow.com/Save-a-Choking-Dog

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