1. 1
   Take the injured puppy to an emergency veterinary clinic. You should be aware that when you take the puppy to the clinic, you will have to pay for its treatment.^[10] If the dog has extensive injuries, the bill might be quite high. However, if the dog has moderate to severe injuries, veterinary aid is a necessary part of caring for the dog.
2. 2

   Tell the emergency vet that this dog is a stray. Tell the vet that you do not know the puppy’s age or medical history, how long it has been a stray, the last time it ate or drank, or the last time it received any care for its injuries. This will let the vet know that they need to make a complete examination of the dog for its overall health and wellbeing, in addition to caring for the puppy’s injuries. In addition to assessing the pup’s injuries, the vet will probably test for:^[11]

   • Parvovirus
   • Ringworm fungus
   • Bacterial Dermatitis
   • Mange
   • Internal parasites, such as worms
   • Ticks and fleas
   • Ear mites
3. 
   3

   Consider signing over your rights to the puppy in exchange for free service.Some veterinary clinics will provide free services to stray animals, but in order to receive these services, you are expected to give up all rights and knowledge of the animal you’ve found.^[12] This means that you cannot wait with the animal while it is being treated, or call the veterinary office for updates.

   • If you do not have the funds to care for the dog, or if you are not attached to the pup, this might be a good option if it is available to you.
4. 
   4

   Let the vet do their job. In an event where you’re seeing an injured animal in pain, it is easy to forget that the vet is specially trained to handle these situations. The vet does not need your questions, advice, or help, and offering these things will only slow the vet down and make it take longer for the dog to receive necessary treatment.

   • In the event of serious injury, the vet might suggest euthanasia.^[13] Be sure to listen to what they have to say, ask for alternative treatment plans, and consider the level of discomfort the dog is experiencing and it’s likelihood of recovery.^[14]When in doubt trust your vet’s recommendations.

1. 
   1

   Treat any minor wounds or skin abrasions. The vet may recommend applying a certain medicated ointment or administering oral medications depending on the puppy’s injury. Be sure to follow any directions that the vet gives, and don’t miss any doses.

   • Some medications like antibiotics or skin creams have to be administered even after the symptoms of illness or injury have passed. Be sure to use the full course of medication, and don’t skip any doses.
2. 
   2

   Give the puppy a warm bath, if it is safe to do so. If you are going to try to nurse the puppy back to health, you want to be sure it is clean before bringing it into your home.

   • You can’t use a flea or tick shampoo on a puppy younger than 12 weeks or so, but some veterinarians recommend using liquid dish soap such as blue Dawn to remove dirt and grease from the puppy’s fur. If the puppy has ticks, pull them off at the head using a pair of tweezers and flush them down the toilet or smash them before discarding.
3. 
   3

   Give the puppy somewhere warm to sleep. Puppies that are six weeks or less need lots of warmth, since they are used to cuddling up with their mother and littermates.

   • A pet crate with a few towels or baby blankets inside will serve as a warm place for him or her to get some rest while recovering from their injuries.
4. 
   4

   Give the puppy plenty of food and water as it recovers. Puppies’ diets vary based on their age, so it is important to ask the vet for an estimate on how old the puppy might be and what the vet recommends for it to eat.

   • A very young puppy will need to be bottle fed using a special puppy formula, but puppies can eat dry puppy food starting at around five weeks of age. You can get the proper food at your local pet store.
   • Ask the vet if he or she recommends a special diet while the puppy recovers. Sometimes a critically ill or injured dog will need a critical care diet, which is easier to digest and more calorie-dense for a dog who has a lower appetite due to illness.^[15]
5. 
   5

   Feed your puppy according to its age and size. For example, a seven week old, seven pound puppy will need to eat about half a cup of dry puppy food three times a day.

   • Always have a bowl of clean, cool water available for your puppy.

1. 
   1

   Look for a microchip.^[16] After the puppy has been treated for its injuries, have the vet scan it for a microchip to see if it has an owner. It is possible that the puppy managed to escape from its home and that its owner is looking for it.

   • If the dog does have a microchip, make sure that you contact the owner. Sometimes the vet will offer to board the puppy until its owner can pick it up.
2. 
   2
   Take the dog to a trusted animal shelter. If the puppy has no tags, nor a microchip, and you are unable to keep it, take it to a local animal shelter. Taking a stray animal to the shelter is still the quickest way to reunite a lost pet with its owner.^[17]
3. 
   3

   Post fliers of the puppy. If you choose to keep the puppy while you search for its owner, post fliers of the dog along with your contact information in heavily trafficked areas of your town. These fliers might help to reunite the owner with the puppy. Here are some places you might post fliers:^[18]

   • Grocery Stores
   • Veterinarian Offices
   • Humane Society
   • Local Animal Shelters
   • Telephone poles at busy intersections
   • College Campuses
   • Social media sites, like Facebook or Nextdoor
4. 
   4
   Verify the owner. If someone contacts you stating that they are the owner of the puppy, ask questions to make sure this is true. You might even ask for proof of ownership, such as pictures of the pup, the dog’s ID tags, vet records, or an adoption contract.^[19] You should also offer to personally deliver the puppy to the owner’s home so that you can make sure that the pup is well cared for and lives in a loving home.
5. 
   5

   Adopt the pup. If you are unable to locate the owner of the puppy, you may choose to adopt the dog. In order to adopt the puppy as your own, you need to check the laws for dog ownership in your city or state.^[20] [Image:Take Care of an Injured Stray Puppy Step 8.jpg|center]]

   • In some areas, you will need to contact the animal control agency or the humane society to report finding the animal, prove that you’ve made a reasonable attempt to find the owner of the dog, and demonstrate that you want to adopt the puppy.
   • You will need to get the puppy vaccinated, licensed, and microchipped. You should also get a collar with ID tags for the puppy.^[21][

   reference: https://www.wikihow.com/Take-Care-of-an-Injured-Stray-Puppy

1. 
   1
   Collect your supplies. If you’re using a bar of soap, the soap is the only thing you’ll need.

   • An ordinary bar of soap, when pressed into the claw, will form a plug that covers the quick, like putting a cork in a bottle.^[4] This plug generally dislodges itself several hours later and needs no further attention.
2. 
   2
   Maintain your calm. Ideally you’ve prepared yourself for this situation and can calmly use the materials you have ready at hand to stop the bleeding.

   • A healthy dog won’t be at risk from blood loss from a bleeding quick, but the blood can be somewhat alarming, particularly if your dog seems distressed.^[5] Know that the dog is in no danger, but act quickly to minimize its discomfort.
   • Remaining calm is important to both you and your dog. If you cut the dog’s quick, the dog will likely be distressed and will look to you for cues on how to react. If you show alarm or become frantic, your dog likely will, too.
3. 
   3
   Hold the bleeding nail at 90 degrees to the dry soap. Gently restrain your dog to keep it still as you do this.

   • Push firmly so that the nail is embedded into the soap to a depth of approximately 3 – 4 millimeters.
4. 
   4
   Hold the foot still in this position for 3 – 4 minutes. This places gentle pressure on the blood vessels and stops them from bleeding.

   • Remove the toe from the soap after 3 – 4 minutes with a gentle twisting action.
   • If your dog won’t hold still, push the claw firmly into the soap and then remove the soap with a slight twist of the wrist.
5. 5
   Repeat. If a plug doesn’t form, repeat the above process again, pressing the claw into the soap until you’re successful.

   • You’ll know a plug has successfully been formed when the soap is blocking the tip of the nail and no more blood is seeping through.
   • If the bleeding won’t stop, contact your vet.

1. 1
   Get your supplies ready. If you’re using potassium permanganate, you’ll need the potassium permanganate crystals, cotton swabs, and a bit of water to moisten the swabs.

   • Potassium permanganate is a powder made up of bright purple crystals and is the preferred method of veterinarians to stop bleeding nails.^[6]
   • It’s highly effective and the permanganate is a natural disinfectant.^[7]
   • Potassium permanganate crystals are widely available on internet retail sites.
2. 2
   Stay calm. Ideally you’ve anticipated this scenario and can calmly use the materials you’ve prepared to stop the bleeding.

   • The blood loss from a bleeding nail is not dangerous to a healthy dog.^[8] The bleeding nail can, however, look a bit dramatic, especially if the dog scrambles around spreading blood all over the floor. Know that the dog is in no danger, but act quickly to minimize its discomfort.
   • Remember that remaining calm is important for you but also for your dog. The quick is tender and full of nerves, so having it clipped will be painful to your dog and it will be looking to you for cues on how to react. If you get panicked or frantic, your dog likely will, too.
3. 3
   Moisten the tip of a cotton swab with water. It’s important that the swab be slightly moist so that the potassium permanganate crystals will adhere to it.^[9]

   • You don’t need to soak the swab, just dampen it with a few drops of water.
4. 
   4
   Press the swab into the bleeding quick and hold for 30 seconds. Gently restrain your dog while you apply the swab.

   • The bleeding should stop fairly quickly.
5. 
   5
   Repeat. If the bleeding hasn’t stopped, repeat the above process again, this time holding the swab in place for 5 minutes.^[10]

   • If after 5 minutes the bleeding still hasn’t stopped, contact your vet.

1. 
   1
   Contact your vet if the bleeding continues. In the unlikely situation that none of the methods above work to stop the bleeding, phone your veterinarian for advice.^[11]

   • If the vet recommends bringing your dog in, calmly begin preparing your dog for transport.
2. 
   2
   Bandage the paw. Do your best to bandage the paw before transporting your dog to the vet.

   • Use a bandage from a first aid kit to put a temporary dressing over the paw to help stop the dog from hitting the sore nail and to keep the car a bit cleaner.
   • Alternatively, you can place a swab or gauze dressing over the toe and wrap a bandage around the paw to hold it in place. Put enough tension on the bandage that it grips the paw and doesn’t fall off, but don’t pull it too taut or the bandage may cut off circulation to the paw. If the bandage is too tight, your dog will seem distressed and chew at the bandage; if that happens, loosen the wrapping.
   • If you don’t have access to a first aid kit, wrap clean toilet tissue or cotton wool around the toe and apply a tight-fitting sock over the paw to hold it in place. If you have someone available to help, ask them to hold cotton wool over the nail while you’re en route to the vet.
3. 
   3
   Have the vet or a professional groomer trim your dog’s nails. If you find that you have difficulty trimming your dog’s nails yourself, perhaps because you’re nervous about hurting your dog or your dog has learned to fear nail trimmings, you best option may be to try having it professionally done.

   • If your dog shows noticeable distress at going to the groomer’s or to the vet’s, you might consider asking the vet or groomer to show you better strategies for trimming your dog’s nails at home.
   • If you’re able to get more comfortable trimming the nails yourself, you may be able to avoid giving your dog the extra anxiety that may be associated with going to the groomer or vet.^[12]

   reference: https://www.wikihow.com/Stop-a-Dog%27s-Quick-from-Bleeding

1. 
   1
   Observe the dog in a quiet environment. Keep the dog in the quiet spot, so he can rest and you can keep a close eye on him. Make sure that the dog does not participate in any activity such as running or playing.
2. 
   2
   Try to keep the dog from shaking or scratching at the ear.^[4] If the dog shakes its head or scratches due to sensations from the wound, he can re-open the wound and cause further bleeding.

   • Another potential complication from vigorous head shaking or scratching is the formation of an aural hematoma, which is a blood clot between the layers of the ear. This happens when a blood vessel beneath the skin and cartilage breaks and bleeds into the ear cartilage. The ear will swell like a pillow. These need to be treated by a veterinarian.^[5]
3. 
   3
   Use an Elizabethian collar for two or three days. To minimize complications, you can use an Elizabethian collar (also known as an e-collar, cone or recovery collar) for two or three days.^[6] This will prevent the dog from reaching the ear with a foot.
4. 
   4
   Clean the ear. You can minimize the dog’s desire to shake its head by carefully cleaning the ear and ear canal. Remove any bothersome blood or debris in the canal or inside the ear.
5. 
   5
   Create a head bandage. Another option is to create a head bandage for the dog. This is especially helpful if the dog keeps flapping its ears. You will need to sacrifice a stocking for this option. Cut the toe off the stocking to form a tube. Fold the ears back over the head, using a piece of gauze on the wound. Carefully slide the stocking over the head. The nose and eyes should remain open with the stocking placed just beyond the eyes.

   • Make sure the fit is snug but not too tight. You should easily be able to fit a finger under the stocking both on the head and the neck.
   • Leave the bandage on for a day, then remove it and check the ear wound. If needed, you can replace it for another day as long as it remains clean and dry.

   reference: https://www.wikihow.com/Stop-a-Dog%27s-Ear-from-Bleeding

1. 1
   Look for the other signs of fever. Apart from physical temperature, one of the first things you can do is to observe your dog for other physical signs of fever. It’s important to be alert for changes in normal behavior from having difficulty defecating, to coughing or sneezing, since this may provide vital information as to the seat of infection.^[2]Possible symptoms include:^[3]

   • Poor appetite
   • Lethargy, sluggishness or inactivity
   • Weakness
   • Vomiting
   • Diarrhea
   • Sleeping all day
   • Withdrawing away from other dogs
2. 2
   Observe your dog’s appearance and behavior. When a dog runs a significant fever, from a few feet away and without touching him, you can feel heat radiating from his body. There will be a handful of other visible symptoms you can look for, too:

   • He is likely to be panting heavily for prolonged periods of time, and his breath will feel hot against your cheek.
   • He may be thirsty and drink more water than usual, because he loses fluid as he pants.
   • A fever can make joints feel achy and sore. In the dog this manifests itself as a reluctance to exercise, stiffness on rising and a stilted gait or even lameness.
   • A dog with a fever will be withdrawn, quiet and lethargic. He may become uncharacteristically aggressive when touched, because he feels uncomfortable and irritable.
   • He is less likely to groom and his coat will appear unkempt and “starry,” or dull and dry.
3. 3
   Stroke, pet, and engage your dog in play. Try to remember the feel of your dog’s body when he is not sick. Are his eyes dull? His coat less silky? Is he less rambunctious and eager than usual? Changes in these physical and behavioral characteristics may be a sign of illness.
4. 4
   If he seems well, assess him again in an hour. If the dog is behaving naturally, is hot but seems otherwise well, let him rest in a cool place for an hour and then re-check his temperature again to see if the signs you did detect have normalized. Since a fever is a normal immune response, it may just be something you have to wait out if it’s not serious.

   • Remember, if the temperature of the dog’s extremities is raised and he is behaving abnormally, this is more likely to be significant than for a warm dog that appears otherwise well. It’s infection you need to be worried about, not fever.

1. 
   1
   Know that fever is a normal immune response. In most situations, fever is nothing to worry about. It’s a good indicator that the body is fighting back an infection or is undergoing repairs. In some situations, however, fever can be the sign of a bacterial infection. If your dog is displaying any abnormal symptoms, contact your vet immediately.

   • When bacterial infections with gram negative bacteria are present, they release toxins from their cell walls that act as signals to the brain to cause fever. In these cases severe bacterial infection can lead to even more severe fever with a very high temperature.^[4] This extreme temperature, instead of helping the animal can lead to damages to sensitive organs, like the testicles and the brain. When this happens, convulsions and coma, and sometimes sterility, can result. Thus it is very important that a fever be detected earlier, and a prompt veterinary therapy be given to prevent these unwanted effects.
2. 
   2
   Call the vet. When in doubt, contact your vet for a professional opinion. In addition to seeking medical treatment if abnormal symptoms are present, it’s a good idea to take this fever seriously if it lasts for more than 24 hours, too. Your vet can prescribe an anti-pyretic (anti-fever) medication to bring his temperature down almost immediately.
3. 
   3
   Consider other related physical ailments. If your dog’s fever is related to another, often more serious, condition, you’ll notice another set of symptoms entirely. It could be a more serious respiratory or gastro-intestinal infection. Be on the lookout for the following:

   • If he has a respiratory infection he may cough, sneeze, and have a runny nose or streaming eyes. This will likely impede his normally rambunctious behavior and sleep patterns, too.
   • If he has gastro-intestinal infection or inflammation, then he may be anorexic, vomit or have diarrhea. If you suspect he has a gastro-intestinal disturbance, follow him outside when he toilets so that you can see what he passes. Does he have diarrhea? Is there blood in his urine?
   • If you notice anything abnormal related to either condition, consult your vet immediately. There is likely an infection present; fever is just one of many symptoms present that need to be addressed.

   reference: https://www.wikihow.com/Take-a-Dog%27s-Temperature-Without-Using-a-Thermometer

1. 1
   Look for injuries on the animal. Look particularly for bleeding, fractures (exposed bones or limbs at odd angles), burns, signs of shock (shallow breathing, nervousness, dazed eyes, erratic pulse if you can take it), and problems with breathing. Phone ahead to an emergency veterinarian or have a helper do it while you tend to the pet.^[5]
2. 2

   Put securing devices on the pet. Except for the case of a pet that is not breathing you need to keep the animal restrained at the muzzle and body to apply other kinds of first aid. You can use simple, but tough fabrics like a t-shirt or rags to wrap around the dog’s snout or cat’s head for a muzzle. Wrap them around enough times to restrict motion, but not cut off breathing. Tie a simple knot to secure the wrapping. Do the same for the legs if they are not broken.^[6]

   • Try to use clean rags to avoid infection.
3. 3

   Stop the minor bleeding. For external bleeding, apply clean gauze from a first aid kit by pressing a pad of it on the wound and holding it in place for 3 minutes until a clot forms.^[7]

   • If you see bleeding from internal areas such as the mouth, rectum, or urine then all you can do is keep the dog or cat calm until you get it to a veterinarian.
   • For more severe external bleeding you will need to use a tourniquet.
4. 4

   Apply a tourniquet. If the dog or cat has extensive external bleeding on a limb, then you need to apply a tourniquet and bandage. Use gauze from the first aid kit or an elastic material you have on hand to tie a knot between the wound and the body. Press a gauze or clean cloth bandage onto the wound. Remove the tourniquet for 20 seconds every 15-20 minutes and reapply it if necessary.^[8]

   • A pet losing this much blood will require a veterinarian’s attention immediately.
   • Do not leave the tourniquet on for more than 10 minutes. It will start to cut off blood supply to the rest of the limb, leading to tissue damage or even death.
5. 5
   Apply ice or water to burns. If you notice burns from either your car’s or road chemicals on the dog or cat, then you need to apply cold water and/or ice. Flush the wound thoroughly with water and apply an ice compress until you can get the pet to a veterinarian.^[9]
6. 6

   Stabilize fractures. If the fracture isn’t too severe you can try to create a makeshift splint from cloth and a solid piece of wood. Align the wood on both sides of the broken dog’s or cat’s fractured limb, wrap both tightly with the cloth or blanket. Tie off the cloth.^[10]

   • Bad splints can’t make the fracture worse. If you are unsure about the splint you are making then leave it up to the veterinarian. Just make sure you are transporting the pet with as little jostling as possible.
7. 7
   Treat for shock. If you’ve observed the stricken dog or cat acting nervous, breathing shallow, or the eyes darting about then it may be in shock. If the animal is unconscious this is also possible. In any case, you need to keep the dog or cat warm and restrained so it does not hurt itself. Keep the animal’s head level with the body. Get it to the veterinarian immediately.^[11]
8. 8

   Administer rescue breathing. If the dog or cat is not breathing you can perform a procedure similar to that used on humans. Open the dog’s or cat’s mouth. Pull out the tongue gently until it is flat. Make sure there are no foreign objects. Close your pet’s mouth again. Breath directly into its nose until the pet’s chest expands. Repeat this every 4-5 seconds.^[12]

   • If there are any foreign objects in the throat, then you should remove them with pliers or tweezers first.
9. 9

   Do chest compressions. In the event, the stricken dog or cat has no heartbeat you should lay your dog or cat gently on its right side. Hearts of these pets are in the lower left side of the chest area. For a dog, press in on the heart area one-inch deep (adjust harder or softer for the size of the animal). For a cat, hold your hand around the animal’s chest so your thumb is on the left side and your fingers are on the right side of the chest. Compress the chest by squeezing between your thumb and fingers. Press 80-120 times/minute for large animals, and 100-150 times/minute for small ones.^[13]

   • Do not do this simultaneously with rescue breathing.
10. 
    10
    Look for identifying information. See if the pet you struck has owner’s information on the collar, matches any posters or ads in the area, or has a radio frequency identification chip (RFID). Call the owner and inform them of what has occurred, where you are taking the pet, and ask for any special instructions that might be necessary for the care of the pet.^[14]
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    11
    Take the pet to an emergency veterinarian. Once you’ve administered first aid to the pet you should keep it warm and secured in your back seat if your car is still drivable. Call, locate, and drive to the nearest emergency veterinary clinic or animal hospital so the dog or cat can get more complete care. If your car is immobilized then you should call 9-1-1 and the police may be able to transport the pet for you.

1. 
   1

   Look for damage on your car. Take photos of the car from all angles if possible. Ask a family member or friend with a camera to come and take photos if you can’t.^[15]

   • Take photos of damage and area before you leave the scene or your car is moved for any reason other than clearing traffic.
2. 
   2

   Contact your insurance company. You need to file a claim that includes the photos of the damage to your car, the police report, and any information you collected on the pet (including its owner). You can call your insurance company’s claims representative or file online.^[16]

   • The company will evaluate your car’s damage values and recommend one or more repair shops to use. This will require comprehensive coverage on most policies.
3. 
   3

   Take your car in for repairs. Use one of the shops your insurance company covers so you get properly reimbursed.^[17]

   • This most likely will mean body work if you hit a dog or a cat.

   reference: https://www.wikihow.com/Respond-After-Hitting-a-Dog-or-Cat-With-Your-Car

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   1
   Restrain your dog if possible. If your dog is in pain it may struggle or bite while you try to treat its wound. If possible, have another family member or friend restrain your dog while you examine its injury. Be sure to handle your dog firmly but gently to avoid causing it extra pain.^[6]

   • To restrain your dog, kneel down by your dog’s side so you’re facing its head. Then, take your arm that’s furthest from your dog and hook it under your dog’s chin. Take your other arm and wrap it around your dog’s chest, behind its front legs. Finally, pull your dog close to your body and hold it there.
   • Restraining your dog may help to calm it down if it feels panicked by its injury.
2. 
   2
   Muzzle your dog to avoid being bitten. Even the most docile dog may bite its owner after suffering a disorienting injury. Before treating your dog’s wound, muzzle it gently to prevent biting. Be sure that the muzzle does not touch the wound.^[7]

   • If your dog’s wound is located too close to its mouth to muzzle it, proceed with caution.
   • If you do not have a muzzle, you can wrap gauze around your dog’s mouth temporarily to keep it from biting you.
3. 3
   Apply gauze to the bleeding area and put pressure on it for 20 minutes. If your dog has a small wound, cover it with a clean piece of medical gauze. Apply constant pressure to the wound for up to 20 minutes to slow or stop the bleeding. If your dog has a large laceration, place a clean towel over the wound.^[8]

   • If the bleeding continues after 20 minutes, bring your dog to a vet right away.
4. 4
   Wrap a sports bandage around your dog to hold the bandage in place. Gently wrap a sports bandage or a long strand of soft material around your dog’s head, limb, or torso to keep the gauze over the wound. Avoid wrapping it too tight, which may restrict your dog’s breathing or circulation. Tie the bandage or material firmly with a knot.^[9]

   • Avoid using tape to keep the bandage in place as it will adhere to your dog’s fur and cause irritation and hair loss.
5. 5
   Raise your dog’s limb above heart-level if it is bleeding. If one of your dog’s front or back paws is injured, you can slow down the bleeding by raising it above heart level. This will be the easiest to do if your dog is lying on its side, with the injured limb facing upwards. Keep gentle pressure on the wound.^[10]

   • Similarly, if your dog has an ear injury and long ears, gently pull the ear up above its head to help stop the bleeding. ^[11]
6. 6
   Bring your dog to a vet as soon as possible after bandaging its wound. Your dog may get an infection if its wound is left untreated for more than a day or two. Bring your dog to a veterinarian as soon as you can to evaluate and treat the injury. Your vet can also provide advice for how to care for the wound while it heals.^[12]

   • Your vet may also have to check for internal bleeding, depending on the injury your dog suffered.

1. 
   1
   Keep your dog still so that you can control the bleeding. If you accidentally cut one of your dog’s nails too short while trimming it, make sure your pet doesn’t run off and spread blood around your home. While the injury is not serious, it can bleed quite a bit. If possible, have a friend or family member hold your dog while you treat the nail.^[13]

   • If you do not have another person to brace your dog, try to restrain it as gently as possibly using a leash if necessary.
2. 
   2
   Use a styptic stick on the tip of the nail to stop the bleeding. Veterinarians use styptic sticks to stop bleeding nails quickly. If you have one on hand, gently press the tip to the injured nail for several minutes until the bleeding stops. Purchase styptics sticks at pets stores or online.^[14]

   • Purchase styptic sticks to keep on hand in case of this kind of trimming accident.
   • A styptic stick may cause temporary pain, but it will quickly stop the bleeding.
3. 
   3
   Use corn starch or flour if you don’t have styptic sticks. In a pinch, place a small amount of corn starch or flour on your fingertip and press it into the tip of your pet’s bleeding nail. The powder will help clot the blood after a moment or two.^[15]

   • Keep light pressure on the nail until the bleeding appears to stop.
   • Do not bandage your dog’s paw, which might make walking difficult.

   reference: https://www.wikihow.com/Stop-a-Dog-from-Bleeding

1. 1
   Gather together the necessary materials in one place. You don’t want to get the first few layers of the splint on only to find you are missing a length of bandage so get all your materials together in one place before you make the splint. Pausing to search for more materials will also allow your dog to shake or move his leg while he is unsupervised, and potential undo all your hard work on the splint.

   • Get four to five rolls of cotton padding bandage (such as Soffban) and four to five rolls of cotton bandage.
   • A roll of zinc oxide tape.
   • A roll of crepe bandage (preferably a self-adhesive bandage such as Co-flex).
   • A roll of adhesive bandage (such as Elastoplast).
   • A splint. You want a splint that is a similar width and as long as the injured limb bone. A ruler or a wooden spatula can be acceptable splints in a pinch.
   • Scissors to cut the bandage material.
2. 2
   Get someone to help you hold your dog still. If your dog is conscious, it is helpful to a friend or neighbor assist you in holding your dog still. This will also prevent him from shaking off the dressing halfway through and if he gets snappy because of the pain, your assistant can help to calm him down while you work on the splint.
3. 3
   Lie your dog down on a padded surface with his injured leg in the air. Use a rug or a towel to create a soft, padded surface as your dog will be less likely to wiggle around if he is comfortable.
4. 4
   Position yourself on one side of your dog with his paws closest to you. Your assistant should stand with your dog’s back against their tummy, so that your dog’s legs are pointing away from them and towards you.
5. 5
   Have your assistant gently restrain your dog. If your dog is wiggling around, your assistant can gently rest their forearm over your dog’s neck to push your dog’s head to the floor. Your assistant can then use their free hand to grasp your dog’s leg, which should be resting on the ground.

   • Pinning down your dog’s head and holding his leg will stop him from getting up.
6. 6
   Cover any open wounds on your dog’s leg with a sterile gauze swab. To do this, cut two strips of zinc oxide tape so they are four-inches wider than the swab. Open the sterile swab packaging and place the swab on top of the open wound. Wrap the zinc oxide tape over the swab and wind it around your dog’s leg to anchor the swab in place.

   • Avoid stretching the tape because this could restrict the blood circulation to your dog’s leg.
   • If you do not have access to sterile swabs, use a piece of clean linen or cotton to cover the wound; a clean handkerchief would work just fine. Choose a material that is not fluffy and will not leave fibers in the wound. Do not use wool or fleece.
7. 7
   Apply a single layer of padding around your dog’s leg. Applying the splint directly to the skin can cause rubbing and discomfort so begin with a single layer of padding around your dog’s leg. You want to prevent the splint from resting against your dog’s skin, rather than pad the injury, so do not put lots of layers of padding at this stage. Too much padding can cause the splint to slip out of place.

   • Remove the wrapper from the sterile Soffban. If you are right-handed, hold the roll in your right hand with the tongue rolling down and under the roll, and facing away from you.
   • Start at the toes, and rest the tongue of the roll over the top of your dog’s paw. Hold it in place with the left hand and then wind the Soffban around the limb in a circular motion, with each wrap overlapping the previous by half the width of the Soffban.
   • Apply a little bit of tension to the Soffban as you wind, so that it stretches slightly but does not tear. Soffban will not cut off circulation on the limb because the fibers part and the bandage shears before that amount of tension can be applied.
   • Continue winding the Soffban until you have encased the limb. Tear off the Soffban and tuck the free end under the previous wrap to secure it.
   • If you do not have access to medical supplies like Soffban, you can use regular cotton wool to form a soft layer around the leg, or cut a T-shirt into strips and wrap them around your dog’s leg.

1. 1
   Cut off four to six pieces of zinc oxide tape. Each strip should be twice the diameter of the bone being splinted.
2. 2
   Place the splint against the padding to support the injury. Make sure you line up the splint to properly fit the injured area.
3. 3
   Secure the splint in place with the zinc oxide tape by placing the strips one at each end of the splint and then throughout the splint. Wind the tape around the splint and Soffban, so the splint is secured firmly against the limb.

   • If you don’t have access to zinc oxide tape, improvise with what you have on hand. Zinc oxide tape is a fabric tape with adhesive, so you could use alternatives like sticky tape, duct tape, or even shoelaces tied around the splint and leg to secure it in place. The goal is to anchor the splint against the leg so it is comfortable for your dog.
4. 4
   Apply another layer of Soffban. Do this the same way you applied the initial layer of Soffban. Then, open the sterile packaging on the cotton bandage and wind a layer over the top of the Soffban, using the same technique.

   • Repeat this for approximately three layers.
   • Applying further layers of padding and bandage helps to hold the splint in place and further immobilizes any fractures.

1. 
   1
   Apply a protective layer such as Co-flex to keep the bandage clean and rigid.Open the sterile wrapper and apply a layer of Co-flex using the same technique as you did for the Soffban.

   • Co-flex is stretchy so if it is applied in its stretched state, it will contract on the damaged limb and impair the limb’s blood circulation. Always release the tension on the roll as you bandage so the Co-flex is unstretched as you wrap it around your dog’s leg.
   • If you do not have access to Co-flex, don’t worry about this step. The bandage will be fine without an outer layer in the short term (about a day), while you take your dog to the vet. The outer layer will help to keep the inner layers clean, which becomes more of a priority if the dressing has to stay in place for several days.
2. 
   2
   Use Elastoplast to prevent the splint from sliding off. No matter how well you apply the splint, most limb dressings have a habit of sliding off. So to ensure this doesn’t happen, cut a length of adhesive dressing, such as Elastoplast, to secure the top of the dressing to the limb.

   • Cut a length of Elastoplast that is long enough to pass twice around the top of the dressing. Overlap the width so that half overlaps the dressing and the other half overlaps the fur on your dog’s leg. Then, wind the Elastoplast around like a garter.
3. 
   3
   Take your dog to the vet. Now that your pup’s damaged limb is supported in a splint, make your way to the vet.

reference: https://www.wikihow.com/Splint-a-Dog%27s-Leg

1. 1
   Bring your dog to the vet as soon as you see these symptoms. Remember, bloat is a life-threatening condition and not amenable to first aid at home. It is essential to seek immediate veterinary assistance.^[4]

   • Even if you have financial constraints and cannot afford surgery, the humane option is to contact a veterinarian to euthanize your dog to prevent unnecessary suffering. While this can be a hard decision to make, it will ultimately save your dog from a lot of pain.
2. 2
   Be aware of what the vet will do. Veterinary treatment includes aggressive intravenous fluid therapy to support the circulation and dilute systemic toxins. Once your dog is stable, the vet will give him general anesthesia and laparotomy; the stomach is repositioned and an incision made to release the gas.

   • The stomach is then rinsed out, any portions of dead stomach wall resected, and the stomach sutured to the body wall to prevent future episodes of torsion.
3. 3
   Comfort your dog if you cannot get to a vet. If you are not within traveling distance of a veterinarian then try to comfort your dog. Speak to him calmly to reassure him. In the early stages of bloat try gently walking him, to help relieve stomach cramps. Stay by him and keep him calm. Try to find a vet who will come to where you are if you cannot transport your dog to a vet.^[5]

   • Medication or pain relief is of no benefit because it cannot pass the twist in his gullet to enter the stomach and be absorbed.

1. 1
   Familiarize yourself with the concept of bloat. Bloat refers to the stomach filling with gas and becoming distended. The dilated stomach then flips over on itself, sealing off the esophageal sphincter (the entrance to the stomach) and the pylorus (exit). Gas producing bacteria trapped in the stomach continue to ferment and produce more gas, distending the stomach still further.

   • This outward pressure prevents blood flow to the stomach wall, and without an adequate blood supply this tissue dies off. Toxins are then absorbed into the bloodstream and a combination of toxicity, shock, and circulatory failure will kill a dog who has not been taken into the vet.
   • Most dogs become seriously ill within 4 to 6 hours, but death can happen in as little as 2 hours after occurrence, which again makes it very necessary to bring your dog to the vet.
   • Bloat is more correctly known as gastric dilation and volvulus (GDV) which is a term that describes the stomach distension followed by twisting.
2. 
   2
   Consider the risk factors that can make your dog more likely to get bloat.Because of their anatomy, some dog breeds are at higher risk of acquiring bloat than others. Typically, deep-chested breeds are at greater risk, such as the German Shepherd dog, Dobermans, Great Danes, Irish and Gordon Setters, weimaraners, and Greyhounds.^[6]

   • This is because these breeds have a narrow abdomen and deep chest, such that the stomach is suspended inside the abdomen like a hammock slung between trees. This gives the stomach more range of movement within the tummy, and predisposes it to flipping over on itself, especially if the dog is exercised with food in his stomach.
3. 
   3
   Know when bloat occurs. It is normal for small volumes of gas to develop during digestion (hence the reason we burp!) Certain foods, such as those with a high cereal or pulse content, produce more gas than others (just think of baked beans!)

   • Thus, as a result of gas produced during digestion bloat is more likely to happen within 90 minutes of feeding. If that dog then rolls over, or goes for a run, the weight of food is more likely to make the stomach swing from side to side and if it gains enough momentum, possibly flip over.
4. 
   4
   Look out for the key danger period. The key danger period is within two hours of feeding. Any deep-chested breed predisposed to bloat should be never be exercised within 90 to 120 minutes of eating.^[7]

reference:  https://www.wikihow.com/Recognize-Bloat-in-Dogs

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   1
   Separate the fading pup from the litter. If any pups do show signs of fading or cry excessively, you should separate them from the litter and call the vet for help. Depending on the symptoms you report, the vet will instruct you to bring the fading pup in for emergency care or advise you attempt alternative feeding methods.^[8]
2. 
   2
   Place the fading pup in a separate box. After removing any fading pups from the litter, place them in a separate whelp box. Line the box’s floor with a bath mat or newspaper.

   • Go with newspaper if the pup is emitting discharges or if soiling is a concern. You’ll be able to quickly swap out dirty paper for a clean replacement.
3. 
   3
   Keep the fading pup warm. Use a heating pad to warm the separate container. Be sure to check the pad and box frequently with the back of your hand to make sure they aren’t hot to the touch. Keep a newborn pup’s temperature within 95 and 99 degrees Fahrenheit (34.4 to 37.2 degrees Celsius).

   • Place the heating pad under the box’s floor lining, or if you’re using a wood box, you can place the heat under the box to let the wood conduct heat. However, make sure that the heating pad does not cover the entire area. The puppies should be able to crawl off of the heating pad if they get too warm.

1. 
   1
   Check the pups for dehydration. Gently pull back the skin between pups’ shoulders. It should snap back into place quickly. If it doesn’t spring back into place promptly, the puppy is likely dehydrated.^[9]

   • Under the vet’s advisement, you can try using a clean eyedropper to rub a bit of corn syrup on the puppies gums and then use an eyedropper to give him some water. You can also use puppy milk replacer.
2. 
   2
   Warm the pups gradually if they’re too chilled to nurse. Chilled pups are unable to suckle and digest food, but warming them too quickly can be dangerous. The best way to carefully and gradually warm a chilled pup is to hold it against a large patch of your skin. That way, your body will transfer to the pup without overheating it.^[10]

   • If pups are too cold, they won’t be able to suckle or digest food, which will cause fading. Pups under a week that are too warm aren’t yet able to pant to reduce their body temperature.
3. 
   3
   Give the pup a sugar or honey solution. If any pups are dehydrated or if you haven’t observed them nursing, call the vet and ask if you should administer honey, corn syrup, or a sugar-water solution. If the vet approves, put on surgical gloves and administer a drop of the syrup onto the pup’s gums every few hours. Avoid alternative feeding without the vet’s approval.^[11]
4. 
   4
   Feed the pup colostrum. During the first one to two days of delivery, the mother produces a special milk called colostrum. By feeding on this fluid within 12 hours of birth, the pups ingest needed antibodies from the mother’s bloodstream. Without prompt nursing, the pups will be susceptible to infection in addition to dehydration and malnutrition.^[12]

   • If you don’t have supplemental colostrum on hand, you can attempt to express it from the mother’s teat into an eyedropper and manually feed a pup that hasn’t suckled. Your vet can also attempt this process, might have a supply of colostrum on hand, or can supply any fading pups with blood plasma from a healthy dog.
5. 
   5
   Inject subcutaneous fluids. Under the vet’s advisement, use a sterile drawing syringe to inject a Ringer’s lactate solution subcutaneously, or beneath the skin. Be sure the solution is warm, and never inject cold solution. Avoid touching the tip of the syringe or otherwise contaminating it.^[13]

   • Have your vet recommend an amount suitable for the pup.

   reference: https://www.wikihow.com/Save-a-Fading-Newborn-Puppy

1. 
   1
   Drain the airway using gravity. Gently hold the puppy’s head downward for 5 to 10 seconds so that gravity can help drain any amniotic fluid and/or mucus from the mouth, throat, and lungs.

   • Centrifugal force can also be used to drain the fluid of the puppy’s lungs, but you should ask a veterinarian to demonstrate the process before attempting to do it. You’ll need to hold the puppy’s head and neck very secure while smoothly swinging the puppy down and in between your legs. The movement should not be jerky and you must ease the puppy into a gradual stop.^[1]
2. 
   2
   Remove fluid using a suction bulb syringe. While keeping the puppy’s head tilted downward, use a medical suction bulb syringe to remove fluid from the puppy’s mouth.

   • Squeeze the bulb to remove the air from inside. Do this before inserting the bulb into the puppy’s mouth since doing so afterward would drive fluid further down into the lungs.^[2]
   • Insert the tip of the suction bulb into the puppy’s mouth. The tip should reach the entrance of the puppy’s throat, but try not to force it too far into the throat since doing so could cause injury to the puppy’s airways.
   • Once the syringe is positioned, gradually release the squeezed bulb. The suction should draw fluid from the mouth and throat into the bulb.
   • Remove the bulb from the puppy’s mouth and squeeze it again to evacuate fluid and air. Repeat two or three more times, or until you stop drawing fluid out.
3. 
   3
   Breathe into the puppy’s nose and mouth. Gently breathe into the puppy’s nose and mouth two or three times to fill the lungs with air.

   • Position your mouth so that it is sealed around both the mouth and nose of the newborn puppy. Alternatively, you can hold the puppy’s mouth closed with your hand while positioning your own mouth over the puppy’s nose.
   • Breathe small, gently puffs of air into the puppy. Do not breathe too deeply since doing so can damage the puppy’s lungs.

1. 
   1
   Check for a heartbeat. After administering initial respiratory treatment, check the puppy’s chest for a heartbeat.

   • Place your fingers against the chest wall. A strong heartbeat should be easy to identify with no additional tools.
   • You may need to use a stethoscope to identify the difference between a weak heartbeat and no heartbeat, however. If you have a stethoscope, place it over the chest wall and listen for a few seconds.
   • Note that a normal, healthy newborn puppy should have a heartbeat between 120 and 180 beats per minute.
2. 
   2
   Compress the puppy’s chest. If the heart is not beating at all, you will need to perform a few gently chest compressions.^[3]

   • Place your thumb and index finger around the puppy’s chest, directly at the back of the puppy’s bent elbow. This is roughly where the heart should be.
   • Squeeze or compress the chest quickly to stimulate the heart. Do so once or twice.

1. 
   1
   Repeat both respiratory and cardiac treatment as needed. You will need to switch between mouth-to-mouth resuscitation and chest compression until the puppy shows signs of life.

   • Give the puppy two to four puffs of air every 15 to 20 seconds.
   • Continue to gently compress the puppy’s chest in between puffs of air.
   • Check the puppy every minute to determine if it has begun to breathe on its own. You should also check for a heartbeat every minute.
2. 
   2
   Stimulate the puppy once its heart begins to beat. As soon as the puppy’s heart begins to beat, stop performing chest compressions and focus on stimulating the puppy.^[4]

   • Using light, careful pressure, vigorously rub the puppy with a towel.
   • Gently turn the puppy over in your hands several times.
   • Grab the puppy by the scruff of its neck several times, as well.
   • While stimulating the puppy, you may still need to provide a few puffs of air every 20 to 30 seconds to keep its lungs pumping.
3. 
   3
   Know how long to continue. Once the puppy’s heart starts beating, you should continue stimulating the puppy for at least 20 minutes.

   • Most puppies that revive after receiving emergency CPR will stabilize after 20 minutes.
   • If the puppy’s heart does not start beating within 5 minutes of treatment, however, it is unlikely that the puppy will revive.
4. 
   4
   Monitor the puppy closely. All newborn puppies should be closely monitored for several days, but it is especially important to keep a close eye on puppies who needed to be revived upon birth.

   • One of the most important things you can do is to keep the puppy warm. Puppies that get chilled during the first week of life can easily weaken and pass away. Provide hot water bottles, heating pads, heating lamps, and plenty of warm blankets in an effort to keep the box at a minimum constant temperature of 85 degrees Fahrenheit (30 degrees Celsius).
   • Professional veterinary care is also strongly recommended. If you have not already called the veterinarian, do so after the mother has given birth to the remainder of her puppies. Let the veterinarian know about any puppies you needed to revive and follow his or her instructions on additional aftercare.

   reference: https://www.wikihow.com/Revive-a-Puppy