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How to Use an Ehmer Sling

May 1, 2018 Comments Off on How to Use an Ehmer Sling Helping Dogs

An “Ehmer” sling is a binding technique used by veterinarians to stabilize a dislocated hind leg in dogs. The configuration of the wrap reduces the movement of the injured leg, preventing further injury and allowing it to heal faster. To apply an Ehmer sling correctly, flex the leg so that it’s held close to the animal’s body, then tape around the bottom portion of the leg and up over the abdomen. When properly immobilized, the injury should begin to heal within 1-2 weeks.

Part1

Positioning the Injured Leg

  1. 1

    Set the injured limb. For an Ehmer sling to be of any use, the dislocated joint must first be put back into place. You should never attempt to do this yourself. Instead, take your dog to a licensed veterinary professional where they can receive proper treatment.[1]

    • Your dog will need to be anesthetized in order to relax the muscles surrounding the injury and make it easier to secure the sling.
    • In most cases, an Ehmer sling will be most effective when used on dislocations that are less than 24 hours old. After that, prolonged muscle contraction may make more intensive surgeries necessary.
  2. 2

    Lay the dog on its side. Gently lower the dog into a relaxed position with its legs fully outstretched. The injured leg should be on top. While you work, support the limb with one hand to keep it from drooping. Any drastic changes in posture may make the injury worse.[2]

    • Speaking to your dog in a soothing voice will help keep them calm throughout the immobilization process.
  3. 3

    Wrap the lower part of the leg in gauze to cushion it. An additional layer will provide insulation from the tape and prevent it from sticking to the dog’s fur. Alternatively, you can trim a piece of thick cotton roll to the right proportions.[3]

    • If necessary, hold the padding in place with a small strip of tape to keep it from coming undone while you’re fashioning the sling.
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    Flex the injured leg up toward the dog’s body. Carefully bend the knee joint so that the hip is lying flat against the outer edge of the lower abdomen. The hip should be pulled slightly inward, with the knee pointing toward the center of the belly. In this position, the dog will be forced to keep its weight off the dislocated joint, giving it a chance to heal.[4]

    • Manipulate the injured leg slowly. If your dog winces or cries out in pain, you may be moving too quickly or attempting to place the limb at the wrong angle. Stop immediately and reset the limb correctly before proceeding.
    • A small degree of abduction, or keeping the leg tucked in close to the body, will decrease the chances of the joint drifting back out of the socket.[5]

Part2

Wrapping the Sling

  1. 1

    Anchor the tape around the backside of the injured leg. For an effective Ehmer sling, it’s best to use a strong, non-elastic roll of tape that’s porous enough to let the skin beneath the wrapping breathe. Fold the loose end of the tape around the lower leg just above the paw. Rather than encircling the entire limb, leave 2–3 inches (5.1–7.6 cm) free and press both adhesive sides of the tape together.[6]

    • Be careful not to wrap the sling too tight. This could cut off your dog’s circulation, or at the very least cause discomfort.[7]
    • By securing one side of the tape to the other, you can avoid wrapping the tape too tightly, which could cut off circulation to the limb or lead to sores or skin irritation.
    • Make sure the tape is centered, or else it could lose its hold as you begin to wrap the sling.
  2. 2

    Guide the tape over the hip joint. Holding the injured leg in a flexed position, pull the free end of the tape up and around the crease where the thigh meets the abdomen. Then, work your way around to where you originally started to form a complete loop. The leg will now stay bent, which will help alleviate the strain on the muscles and tendons.[8]

    • Repeat this taping pattern 2-3 more times to make sure the wrapping stays firmly in place.
    • Make sure you’re applying an even amount of pressure as you continue to wrap the tape. If some spots are wrapped tighter than others, your dog could get painful pressure sores.
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    Redirect the tape to form an abdominal band. If you’re using a separate piece of tape, start by positioning the tape in the same spot you did the first strip. This time, you can stick the end of the tape directly to the lower layer. If you’re using the same roll, simply unravel it enough to allow you to change direction without crossing any other part of the dog’s body.[9]

    • When applying a sling to a larger breed, you may need to use a second roll of tape to ensure that you’ll have enough for multiple passes.
    • Without another point to support the leg band, the joint still won’t have the stability it needs to limit side-to-side movement. The leg band will therefore be responsible for keeping the knee flexed while the abdominal band braces the hip joint itself.[10]
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    Continue wrapping the tape around the lower abdomen. Once the lower leg is secured, bring the roll up and over the lower back and around the front to the belly. The idea is to create a sort of girdle that anchors the leg band at two different angles. Repeat this wrapping pattern as many times as needed to fortify the sling. When you’re finished, the injured leg will be fully immobilized and ready to begin healing.[11]

    • To keep the sling nice and snug, pull the loose skin around the haunches taut before stretching the tape around the dog’s midsection.
    • Take care not to pull the tape too tight, as this could cause discomfort or restrict breathing.
    • Avoid wrapping male dogs in such a way that they have difficulty urinating.

Part3

Utilizing an Ehmer Sling Effectively

  1. 1

    Use an Ehmer sling to stabilize recent dislocations. “Closed reduction” methods like Ehmer slings that restrict joint movement are most effective for dealing with injuries that have just occurred. Generally, it’s best to apply the wrapping within 24 hours of the incident. After that, there may be too much inflammation in the joint for a sling to be of any use.[12]

    • Consult your vet before deciding that an Ehmer sling is what your dog needs. Depending on the nature of the injury, it may not be the best way to ensure recovery.
    • Never wrap a joint that has been dislocated for more than about 3 days—this could end up doing more harm than good.
  2. 2

    Leave the sling in place for a minimum of 7-10 days. It may take up to two weeks before you begin to see an improvement in the injured limb. The longest you should leave an Ehmer sling in place is 14 days, after which time the joint should be strong enough to support the dog’s weight while walking short distances.[13]

    • Assuming that it’s been applied correctly, the sling shouldn’t loosen up or come undone.
    • Keep the wrapping as dry as possible. Otherwise, there’s a chance the adhesive may wear off prematurely.
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    Check periodically for sores and other complications. Examine the area around your dog’s lower leg, thigh, and abdomen for signs of swelling, skin irritation, bruising, or thinning fur. Should you happen to discover any of these issues, reposition or remove the sling right away. When left unaddressed, they have the potential to pose serious health risks.[14]

    • Ask your vet what they recommend as your next best course of action.

    reference: https://www.wikihow.com/Use-an-Ehmer-Sling

How to Wrap a Dog’s Tail

May 1, 2018 Comments Off on How to Wrap a Dog’s Tail Helping Dogs

There may come a time when your dog suffers from an injury known as “happy tail”. Contrary to the name, “happy tail” is anything but “happy”. Some dogs, especially large breeds with short hair, can injure his tail when wagging it.[1] Injury is sustained when the dog hits his tail against a hard surface or simply wags with such force that the tail ruptures. Follow these steps to help heal and protect your dog’s tail after an injury.

Part1

Wrapping the Tail

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    Assess the tail. Before you wrap your dog’s tail, look it over to make sure it actually needs a wrap. “Happy tail” will result in obvious blood loss from your dog’s tail and you should be able to see where the site of the wound is.

    • Try to contact your veterinarian. They will be able to wrap the tail and check for any other damage.
    • If you are unable to contact your veterinarian, you may have to wrap your dog’s tail yourself.
    • Wrapping a dog’s tail can help it to heal faster and prevent further injury.
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    Learn the overview of wrapping your dogs tail. The wrap will be done in three basic stages, applying ointment and gauze, wrapping in cotton for padding, and then taping the bandage to secure everything in place.

    • Ointment goes directly on the wounded area. Clean the area first and then make sure you cover the entire injury with ointment.
    • Gauze and cotton should cover the injury as well. These layers help add protection and keep the ointment where it needs to be.
    • Tape will be applied in two ways. First, apply the tape lengthwise, down the dogs tail and over the gauze and cotton. Then apply rings around those first pieces of tape, starting at the tip and working down the tail.
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    Gather the necessary materials. You will need a few key items to properly wrap your dog’s tail. Getting items together before you begin will allow you to work faster when you apply the bandage and minimize discomfort for your dog.[2]

    • Adhesive medical tape with a width of about one inch.
    • Antibiotic ointment (Mycitracin/lidocaine).[3]
    • Cotton. Larger pieces of cotton will be easier to work with.
    • One non-stick gauze pad.
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    Cut the adhesive tape into smaller pieces. You will want to pre-cut the tape in order to allow you to work quickly. The size of your dog’s tail injury will vary, so you may need more or less tape to wrap the tail. However, you can cut about ten strips of the adhesive tape to the following sizes:[4]

    • Two long pieces (eight inches)
    • Six short pieces (four inches)
    • Two half pieces (four inches in length, one half inch in width)
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    Place the ointment. The ointment will help to prevent infection as well as promote healing. Ointment will need to be reapplied every time you change the bandage.

    • Put ointment on the wound. Make sure you use enough to cover the injured area.
    • You may also want to put some ointment on the gauze bandage as well to ensure that it will come in contact with the wound.
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    Cut and place a piece of the gauze bandage. Take the gauze bandage and cut out a piece that will be big enough to cover the size of the wound. Gently wrap the bandage around the wound and secure it with the narrow pieces of tape.[5]

    • Don’t tape or wrap anything too tightly.
    • Try wrapping the tape down the tail in a spiral.
    • You can also try wrapping the adhesive tape around the tail, at each end of the bandage.
    • Make sure the gauze covers the wound fully.
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    Add the cotton. Take the cotton and place it around the wounded area of the tail. Make sure there is enough cotton to fully cover the area and provide enough padding to keep it from further injury.[6]

    • If you have a large piece of cotton, try wrapping it around the tail just like you would a bandage.
    • Wrap the cotton around the tail entirely at the site of the injury. The cotton should fully cover the gauze and provide padding to the injured area.
    • Carefully compress the cotton, making it conform to the shape of the tail. Be careful not to compress the cotton too forcefully as you may cause further injury to the tail.
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    Finish taping the tail. After you have the gauze bandage and cotton in place, you can start to tape them to the tail. The tape you are now adding will form the outside of the bandage as well as help to securely hold the gauze pad in place. These next pieces of tape will run lengthwise, down the dogs tail.[7]

    • Place an eight inch piece of tape lengthwise, parallel to the tail, over the cotton. The tape will start and end on the dog’s fur.
    • Place a six inch piece of tape slightly askew of the first eight inch piece. It should start and end in the same places; however, it will be angled off to the right somewhat, covering the first piece only slightly.
    • Add another six inch piece of tape in the same way, expect this time angle it to the left.
    • You should have three pieces of tape now, covering the wound, lengthwise down the dog’s tail. They should start and end in the fur, just past the ends of the gauze bandage.
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    Add more tape. Now that you have the bandage anchored to the tail, it’s time to add even more stability and protection. These next few pieces of tape will encircle the tail in rings, similar to the way a mummy is wrapped. Add the last few pieces of tape in the following way:[8]

    • Put a piece of tape around the first three pieces and your dog’s tail. Start towards the tip of your dog’s tail and work down.
    • Add the next piece of tape, just below this one. It should go all the way around the dog’s tail and cover the bandages and tape already affixed.
    • Keep adding tape in this way until you have covered the length of the bandage.
    • Make the last piece of tape overlaps the bandage, sticking to the fur of your dog’s tail.
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    Finish the bandage. Once you have covered the bandage with tape, you are almost done. These last few actions will fully affix the bandage to the tail and keep it secure.[9]

    • Pull a few bunches of hair out from underneath the last tape wrap.
    • Place these bunches of hair flat against the surface of the bandage.
    • Wrap one final piece of tape around these bunches of hair and the tail.

Part2

Promoting Healing and Protection

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    Visit your vet. After you have applied the first bandage, you should visit your veterinarian as soon as you can. You will want to check to see the extent of the damage and how best to treat it.

    • There may be broken bones in the tail that need advanced treatment.
    • Your vet may prescribe certain ointments or have alternative techniques for you to follow.
    • The dog may need stitches if the bleeding too profuse.
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    Change the bandage as needed. The bandage will need changing as it will either become soiled, wet, fall off, or be destroyed by the dog chewing it. Apply new bandages as you did before to keep the wound healing, protected, and safe from infection or further damage.[10]

    • Do not leave the bandage in place for more than a day.
    • Wet bandages will trap infections.
    • Most tail problems will heal in two weeks
    • Visit your veterinarian if the wound doesn’t seem to be healing.
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    Keep things calm. Happy tail results from your dog either wagging his tail so hard that it bleeds or hitting his tail on a hard surface. If you are able to lower the level of excitement in your dog, you will lower the chances of continued injury to your dog’s tail.[11]

    • If your dog gets overly excited when you return home, ignore them, until you get to a larger room that he can wag his tail in without worry of them striking a hard surface.
    • If your dog gets excited about going on a walk, prepare for the walk in a larger room, giving them more space and avoiding any injury to his tail.
    • Try to act calmly around your dog as this can result in calm behavior from them as well.
    • Try using the “sit” command. By having your dog sit, it will reduce the amount of force that he can wag his tail with.[12]
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    Remove the bandage. If the bandage needs to be on for more than a day, you will have to remove and change the bandage. Leaving a bandage on will increase the chances of infection and won’t allow the tail to heal as well as it could. Remove the old bandage by using the following methods:[13]

    • For any areas of the bandage where the fur is stuck to the adhesive, try soaking them in vegetable or olive oil for a few minutes. These oils will help break down the adhesive and allow for easy removal.
    • If your dogs wound is healed, you can also try using shampoo to remove the adhesive and painlessly take the bandage off.
    • For small amounts of fur that are stuck to the bandage, you may simply cut the fur away with a pair of scissors. Exercise caution when cutting the bandage away as it is easy to accidentally cut the dogs tail. If you are not confident doing this, you could take your dog to the groomer.
    • Pulling the bandage off will also pull your dogs hair out and cause it pain. Avoid this method of removal as your dog will come to fear bandages.
    • Do not use any harsh chemicals such as nail polish or rubbing alcohol as these can be harmful to your dog.

    reference: https://www.wikihow.com/Wrap-a-Dog%27s-Tail

How to Wrap a Dog’s Shoulder

May 1, 2018 Comments Off on How to Wrap a Dog’s Shoulder Helping Dogs

If your dog has a cut or bite on its shoulder or you think the shoulder is sprained, wrap it before taking your dog to the vet. Try to stop the bleeding of an open wound before you place a cotton bandage on it. Wrap the shoulder and chest to create a harness-type bandage. For a sprained shoulder, wrap an elastic bandage up and around your dog’s shoulder and front legs. Then get your dog immediate medical attention.

1

Stabilizing a Sprained Shoulder

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    Take action if you suspect a shoulder strain. If you notice that your dog is suddenly in pain or that their shoulder is gradually becoming more painful, look for other signs of a sprained shoulder. These can include:[1]

    • Licking the shoulder joint
    • Limping
    • Loss of appetite
    • Swollen joints or paws
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    Wrap sprains that limit, but don’t prevent, movement. Once you’ve determined your dog’s shoulder is sprained, pay attention to their range of movement. If the dog can still move their shoulder and leg, you can wrap the joint. If they can’t move the leg or joint, contact the vet immediately. Wrapping the shoulder could make the injury worse.[2]
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    Keep the dog standing and drape an elastic bandage over its back. The dog should be standing on all 4 legs. Unroll a long Ace-style elastic bandage and lay it over the dog’s back so both ends of the bandage hang evenly over its sides. The bandage should fall below the dog’s neck near its shoulder.[3]

    • You might need a helper to keep the dog standing still.
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    Pull the straps of the bandage under the dog’s chest. Use moderate tension to pull each bandage strap across and switch hands. For example, bring the right strap to your left hand and pull the left strap to your right hand.[4]
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    Wrap the straps around each of the dog’s legs. Bring each strap around the front of the dog’s legs near the joint. Wrap each strap around the leg 1 at a time using moderate tension. Avoid wrapping too tightly or you will cut off circulation to the leg. You should easily be able to slide your fingers under the bandage.
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    Bring the straps behind the legs and up to secure the bandage. Wrap each strap behind the legs and pull the straps up towards the dog’s back and shoulder. Tie a knot to keep the bandage from unraveling.[5]

    • Check to ensure that the bandage isn’t digging into the dog’s legs or back. If it is, you’ll need to loosen the bandage a little.
  7. 7

    Call the vet if the sprain is moderate to severe. If your dog can’t move their shoulder or leg, contact the vet. You should also talk with the vet if your dog’s minor sprain hasn’t gotten better after 2 days of being stabilized by a wrap.[6]

    • The vet will do x-rays to check for fractures that could be preventing the shoulder from healing.

2

Wrapping an Open Wound

  1. 1

    Keep the dog in standing position. Ask someone to help keep the dog in place so you can bandage the wound and wrap the shoulder. The dog should be standing so you can wrap the bandage under the dog’s torso.
  2. 2

    Press a cotton bandage on the shoulder wound. Dab the wound gently with clean cotton gauze. Then cut a cotton bandage to fit the size of the wound and place it directly on the open wound. Press down firmly with 1 hand to slow any bleeding.[7]

    • Consider wearing gloves to prevent introducing germs to the wound.
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    Wrap an elastic bandage around your dog’s torso and shoulder. Press 1 end of the elastic bandage on your dog’s back near its shoulder. Pull the bandage down and under its torso before bringing it back up near the shoulder. Bring the bandage down over the covered wound and wrap it around the dog’s leg to keep the bandage in place. Repeat this a few times to stabilize the shoulder.[8]

    • Use moderate tension to avoid cutting off circulation.
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    Wrap the bandage behind the dog’s neck and under the torso. To create a harness-type bandage that secures the shoulder, pull the bandage behind the dog’s neck and down onto its chest. Bring the bandage behind the leg of the affected shoulder and back up behind the dog’s shoulder. Wrap the bandage around the leg a few times for support.

    • You should see a V-shaped bandage on the dog’s chest.
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    Secure the bandage with medical tape. Pull off a few inches of medical tape and cut it. Tape the bandage in place along the dog’s back so the bandage doesn’t unwind. You may need to use a few pieces. If you don’t have medical tape, you can use masking tape or another strong tape that you have around the house.

    • Some bandages come with butterfly closures that secure the elastic bandage in place.
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    Run your finger under the bandage to check the fit. Slide your index finger under the bandage near your dog’s leg and chest. You should be able to easily slide your finger under the bandage from the shoulder down across the chest. If you can’t, the bandage is too tight and you should wrap it more loosely.[9]
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    Get your dog to a veterinarian as soon as possible. These instructions are only meant to help you provide immediate first aid when necessary. If your dog has a deep, bleeding wound or you suspect the dog has a shoulder fracture, it will need medical treatment.[10]

    • The vet will remove your dog’s shoulder wrap to clean and examine the wound. The dog may need x-rays, injections, or stitches.

    reference: https://www.wikihow.com/Wrap-a-Dog%E2%80%99s-Shoulder

How to Treat Nosebleeds in Dogs

May 1, 2018 Comments Off on How to Treat Nosebleeds in Dogs Helping Dogs

Nosebleeds may seem fairly harmless, but in dogs, they usually indicate something else is wrong. Therefore, it’s important to know what to do in the moment, such as keeping your dog still and applying an ice pack. You will also need to take your dog to the vet, so they can diagnose what’s wrong, as treating the underlying condition is important.

Part1

Providing Immediate Care

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    Stay calm. If you notice a nosebleed, don’t become frantic. Doing so will only make your dog upset and frightened. Instead, try to stay calm and collected. You can help your dog. You just need to stay cool-headed, so you can get it to the vet and get it treated.[1]
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    Check for breathing. Your dog primarily breathes through its nose, so when it gets a nosebleed, it may have trouble breathing. Make sure the dog is breathing okay before doing anything else. If it’s not, it’s time to go to the vet now.[2]

    • If your dog is having trouble breathing, you should be able to hear wheezing. Your dog may also be panting more, as well as breathing more rapidly.[3]
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    Apply ice and pressure. To stop the nosebleed in the moment, use an ice pack. Wrap ice in a cloth or washcloth so it isn’t too cold, then hold it up to your dog’s nose, on the bridge. Apply light pressure in the area. The cold should help the blood vessels narrow, making the blood stop flowing.[4]

    • You should apply pressure until the bleeding stops. If it hasn’t stopped after about 20 minutes, consider taking your dog to the vet.
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    Calm your pet. You don’t want your dog to move around too much. Moving around increases blood flow, which makes the nosebleed worse. Instead, try to keep it still by petting it and talking soothingly to it while you apply the ice pack.[5]

    • Continue calming your dog even once the blood as stopped flowing, as moving around too much could cause the clot to blow, creating a new nosebleed.

Part2

Diagnosing and Treating the Condition

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    See a veterinarian. A nosebleed is often a symptom of an underlying condition. Therefore, if you notice a nosebleed in your dog, you need to take it to the vet as soon as possible to get a diagnosis. Often, your dog will continue to get nosebleeds if the underlying condition isn’t treated.[6]

    • Expect tests. Because a nosebleed can indicate a wide variety of conditions, your doctor will need to do a full examination, plus a range of tests. The tests will likely include taking both a blood sample and a urine sample for analysis. Your vet may also order x-rays or a CAT scan to help to determine what is wrong.[7]
    • Nosebleeds in dogs can be caused by more minor issues such as high blood pressure, dental disease, a fungal infection, or mild trauma (including having something stuck in the nose). Your dog may also have a problem with blood clotting. Some more serious possibilities include the chance of a tumor or cancer, problems from eating rat poison, and diseases passed from ticks.[8]
    • The most common causes for nosebleeds are infections, trauma, and tumors.[9] A few other possibilities include Rocky Mountain spotted fever or a thyroid issue.[10]
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    Think about possible causes. It can help your vet if you think about possible connections to the nose bleed. For instance, if you know your dog got into rat poison (which can also happen if they eat a rodent contaminated with poison), that’s a connection. Another connection is if the dog experienced any trauma recently, such as running into something. Foxtails, a type of grass with a spiky end, can also be a problem if your dog has had a run-in with it recently, as the end can go up the dog’s nose and get stuck.[11]

    • Medications can also cause nosebleeds, particularly NSAIDs (like ibuprofen).
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    Understand how the vet may stop the nosebleed. If your dog’s nose won’t stop bleeding, your doctor may need to employ some other tactics than you used. They may use epinephrine drops on the nose, for instance, or they may put your dog under anesthesia and pack its nose with gauze.[12]

    • Your vet may also have to cauterize the end of the blood vessels to stop the nosebleeds.
    • If your dog has lost a lot of blood, it may need a blood transfusion, which your vet can provide.
    • Ask about antibiotics or antifungals for infections. If your dog has an infection, a round of antibiotics or antifungals may be needed to treat the infection. Once the infection has been banished by the medications, the nosebleeds should go away, too.[13]
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    Know a plasma transfusion may be needed. If your dog has von Willebrand’s disease, it may need a plasma transfusion to help treat it.[14] Von Willebrand’s disease, often inherited, is found in both dogs and humans. Basically, the blood doesn’t clot as well as it should, causing excessive bleeding.[15]

    • After the bleeding has stopped and your dog has had a plasma transfusion, your doctor may recommend that it begin taking a round of drugs intended to treat the disease.
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    Remove the object if something is lodged. If your dog ran into something that become lodged in its nose, the vet will need to remove the object. Doing so may cause more bleeding for a bit, but the nosebleeds should clear up eventually.[16]

    • Your vet may be able to remove the object with tweezers. If they can’t remove the object, they may need to move on to surgery.
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    Understand other options. If the problem is a tumor, a build-up from a fungal infection, or a badly lodged object, surgery will likely need to be performed on your dog. Of course, your vet will need to make this call, and they will provide you with the options you have for your dog’s care.[17]

    • Depending on what’s causing the problem, your dog may need other treatments, such as immunosuppressive therapy. Prednisone may be prescribed if the problem has to do with the platelets in the blood. Chemotherapy or radiation therapy may be needed if the cause is cancer. Your dog may also need to stay in the hospital for a period of time for treatment.[18]
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    Follow your vet’s directions at home. Once your dog comes home, you’ll need to follow all of your vet’s instructions. Your dog will need to be kept calm. A crate can help in severe cases. You’ll also likely need to give your dog medications, either pills or a spray for the nostrils, which your vet will show you how to apply.[19]

Part3

Noticing the Symptoms of a Nosebleed

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    Watch for blood. Obviously, the main symptom of a nosebleed is a slow, steady flow of blood dripping from your dog’s nose. However, you may not notice the flow right away. Watch for the skin around the nose changing color (turning darker because of the blood).[20]

    • You may also see swelling around the mouth and nose.[21]
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    Look for signs of distress. Even if you don’t notice the blood right away, your dog is likely to know something is wrong or different. It will likely paw at its nose as a nosebleed starts because it can feel the blood starting to come out.[22]
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    Give your dog’s breath a sniff. As a dog owner, you know dog breath is rarely pleasant. However, nosebleeds can cause even worse breath, particularly if they are chronic. If you notice your dog’s breath suddenly getting worse, it could be because of nosebleeds or the underlying cause.[23]
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    Pay attention to your dog’s eating habits. If your dog suddenly stops eating, that could also be a sign of nosebleeds. More likely, it’s a sign of the underlying condition causing the nosebleed. Either way, if your dog stops eating, it needs to see a vet.[24]

    • While your dog may still be eating, you should also note if it’s losing weight over time.
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    Check out your dog’s feces. This job is definitely not a fun one. However, you don’t need to dig around in your dog’s feces. Rather, you just need to note the color. If it’s especially dark and sticky, that could mean your dog has been swallowing blood from a nosebleed.[25]

reference: https://www.wikihow.com/Treat-Nosebleeds-in-Dogs

How to Treat Frostbite in Dogs

May 1, 2018 Comments Off on How to Treat Frostbite in Dogs Helping Dogs

Frostbite is a scary and dangerous winter hazard for your dog! Frostbite occurs after a dog has been outside in cold temperatures for too long. It causes damage to the skin tissue, and can result in your beloved pet losing part of their body. Frostbite can be minor or major, depending on how long the dog was exposed to the cold. To treat frostbite, look for the symptoms, warm the dog with warm towels and warm water compresses, and take them to the vet as soon as possible.

1

Treating the Frostbite Immediately

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    Move your dog inside. The first thing you should do for your dog is to get them out of the cold weather. You should move them into a warm environment, like your house. Make sure to be gentle with your dog, especially around the frostbitten skin.[1]
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    Treat any hypothermia first. If your dog has hypothermia or low core temperature, this needs to be treated before the frostbite. Wrap your dog in warm blankets or towels. You can also place water bottles filled with hot water around the body.[2]

    • Make sure to wrap the bottles in cloth to keep it from burning the dog’s skin, and make sure the blankets or towels you wrap around the dog are dry.
    • Symptoms of hypothermia include violent shivering followed by listlessness and a rectal temperature that is below 95°F (35°C). Other signs include a weak pulse, lethargy, and coma.
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    Cover the area with warm water. Gently warm the frostbitten skin with warm water compresses. You can also soak the affected area in warm water. Never place hot water onto frostbitten skin. This can cause additional damage.[3]

    • The best water temperature is between 104°F to 108°F (40 to 42°C).
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    Pat the skin dry. After your dog has warmed up, dry the skin and fur. Wet skin and fur can cause your dog to be chilled. Take a towel and gently pat the area dry.[4]
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    Avoid hurting the tissue further. Though you definitely want to get the dog warm again, you want to make sure not to hurt them further. Don’t rub or massage the frostbitten skin. This may cause additional damage.[5]

    • You should also not use any direct heat from heating pads, heaters, or hair dryers.
    • If for some reason you have to remain outdoors, don’t try to warm up the frostbitten skin unless you can keep it warm. More cold against the skin or refreezing will make the tissue damage worse.

2

Seeking Medical Attention

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    Take your dog to the vet as soon as possible. If your dog has frostbite, you should get them treated by a vet immediately. The veterinarian will examine your dog, evaluate the degree of damage, and take measures for treating the frostbite, as well as any other condition such as systemic shock or hypothermia.[6]

    • Wrap your dog in warm towels on your way to the vet. Don’t turn the heat up too high as you drive. Instead, keep the car at a mild, warm temperature.
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    Get pain medication. The vet may decide that the thawing skin will cause your dog too much pain. They may give your dog a prescription pain medication to help relieve their symptoms.[7]

    • Don’t give your dog any over-the-counter pain medications. Many of these medications can be toxic to dogs. This may also mean that the vet is not able to prescribe anything stronger to your dog for pain.
  3. 3

    Have your dog undergo extra measures to warm up. If your dog is still not warmed up enough, the vet will do additional procedures to raise their temperature and unthaw the skin. They may be given warm IV fluids or a warm water enema to help raise their internal temperature.[8]
  4. 4

    Treat secondary infections with antibiotics. If your dog has severe frostbite that resulted in dead tissue, the vet may prescribe antibiotics. These medications will help prevent a secondary bacterial infection. If your dog already has an infection around the tissue, they will be given antibiotics.[9]
  5. 5

    Remove dead tissue surgically. If your pet has dead tissue or dead body parts, they will need to be removed. The vet may amputate affected body parts or surgically remove the necrotic tissues. This is rare and only for severe cases.[10]

    • While your dog is anesthetized, the vet will debride the dead tissue to reach the healthy tissue. Several surgeries may be required to accomplish this since it may take time to see the full extent of the damage.

3

Identifying the Symptoms

  1. 1

    Check for pale, gray skin. Dogs that have frostbite will has discolored skin. This discoloration makes the skin appear pale, gray, or bluish instead of their skin normal color.[11]

    • This can be very hard to see, so you may need to look under their fur at different patches of skin.
  2. 2

    Monitor the most common areas affected. Frostbite is not easy to see on your pet. You may not notice they have frostbite unless you really check out their body. If you want to monitor your dog for frostbite, keep an eye on the extremities of the body.[12]

    • This includes the ears, lips, tail, face, feet, and scrotum.
  3. 3

    Feel for cold skin. Another way you can tell if your beloved pet has frostbite is by touching it. Dog’s skin should be warm. Skin that is frostbitten will feel brittle or cold when touched, and the dog may also lack sensation in the affected areas.
  4. 4

    Search for red skin. When the frostbitten skin starts to warm up, it can become red and swollen. This area may be painful for your dog.[13]

    • The skin may develop skin blisters or ulcers if it’s second degree frostbite.
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    Notice peeling skin. If the skin that was frostbitten died, the dead tissue may start peeling off over a few weeks. This may be accompanied by cracking and extremely dry patches of skin.[14]
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    Look for darkened or dead skin. If your dog gets really bad frostbite, the skin will start turning dark. It may turn black after a few days. This is evidence of third degree frostbite.[15]

    • There may be a clear line between damaged and healthy tissue on the skin.
    • These areas may have pus from a bacterial infection and the affected area may have a foul smell.
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    Monitor your dog for days after being in extreme cold. The signs of frostbite may not appear immediately. Your pet may be suffering from frostbite for a few days before they even begin to show symptoms. After being outside with your dog in extreme cold conditions, or if they came into contact with ice or snow, watch them carefully for any symptoms of frostbite.[16]
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    Determine if your dog is at risk. Some dogs are more susceptible to frostbite than others. Knowing whether or not your dog is at a high risk can help you take extra precautions to protect them from frostbite. Small, short-haired dogs have a higher risk than other dogs.[17]

    • Dogs that are wet in cold weather can easily get frostbite.
    • Dogs that are sensitive to cold weather due to age or an illness may be more likely to get frostbite.
    • Dogs who spend long periods of time outside without adequate warm, dry shelter can easily develop frostbite.

    reference: https://www.wikihow.com/Treat-Frostbite-in-Dogs

How to Treat Lacerations on Dogs

May 1, 2018 Comments Off on How to Treat Lacerations on Dogs Helping Dogs

Most dogs will inevitably end up with a few wounds. Rough playing, biting, and running into things can all cause cuts or tears, also known as lacerations, that need some tender loving care. Not all lacerations are equal however. There are some that can be successfully treated at home while there are others that will need the attention of a veterinarian to heal properly without complications. The key is to sort out which wounds you can treat at home and which ones need a doctor’s care.

Part1

Assessing a Laceration

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    Stay calm. Just like people, dogs can sense fear. If your dog becomes anxious or distressed, his blood pressure may rise and this can cause more blood to be expelled from a wound. Keep yourself and your pet calm.
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    Protect yourself and your pet from infection. After making your dog calm and comfortable, you should take the proper precautions to prevent infection to either you or your pet. Start by washing your hands thoroughly and donning gloves when available. Once gloved and clean, you can look at the dog’s wound.

    • If your dog is bleeding profusely you may not have time to do this. Apply a pressure bandage to stem the flow of blood. Once the bleeding is under control and your dog is not in danger of bleeding out, get her to the vet immediately.
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    Decide whether the wound is immediately life threatening and needs emergency treatment. If there’s excessive bleeding, or the cut looks very deep or long, you should get your dog to a vet immediately. To help slow the bleeding on the way, apply a clean towel or cloth to the wound and apply gentle pressure.

    • If in doubt, take your dog to a veterinarian immediately. Blood loss is serious and can lead to illness or death. Don’t risk your pet’s life in order to avoid a veterinary bill.
    • If possible, contact a friend to drive you and your dog to the vet. You can apply direct pressure to the wound using pressure applied to a clean gauze swab while your friend transports you. This is especially important if the vet isn’t near by — your dog may bleed out if you don’t slow the bleeding first.
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    Assess whether the laceration needs veterinary treatment. Simple lacerations are those that don’t involve the full thickness of the skin, the deep tissues under the skin, and that don’t involve an arterial blood supply.[1] While there is not a concrete consensus on classification of lacerations, if it was discovered less than six hours after the injury and it isn’t heavily contaminated, the laceration can be treated at home. Lacerations that need the attention of the veterinarian include:[2]

    • Eyelid wounds.
    • Most bite wounds.
    • Footpad injuries deeper than just a superficial scraping of the pad.
    • Lacerations that will not stop bleeding or that are spurting blood (indicating damage to an artery).
    • Large lacerations.
    • Deep penetrating wounds.
    • Lacerations that involve muscle, tendons, or ligaments.
    • Wounds that are heavily contaminated with mud, dirt, debris, manure.
    • Painful lacerations: even if it looks like a simple laceration, sometimes there is damage underneath the skin that may need the attention of a veterinarian.

Part2

Treating a Simple Laceration at Home

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    Gather supplies. You will need some medical supplies to treat your dog’s wound. Items needed include:[3]

    • Warm water: placing a small dog in a sink or a large dog in the bathtub works great for this, plus it makes cleanup easy.
    • Scissors or clippers (do not use electric clippers around water though).
    • Clean, dry towels.
    • Antiseptic cleaner.
    • Optional supplies: Triple antibiotic ointment, water-based lubricant (for protecting the wound from hair while clipping), and a muzzle (if your dog bites).
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    Protect yourself. Put on gloves to protect your hands. Also, if you think your dog may bite you, put a muzzle on him.

    • If you don’t own one, a simple one can be made by using a three foot length of gauze. Make a loop near the center. Place the loop over the muzzle and around the mouth. Tighten the loop and loop the two free ends behind the ears and tie in a snug bow tie.
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    Remove the fur around the wound. Place the dog in the bathtub or sink without running any water. Use a towel or bath mat on the sink or bath bottom to provide secure footing if needed. You may want to have a second person hold your dog steady while you work at carefully clipping the hair away from the wound edges. Remove an inch of hair around the wound.

    • You can place the lubricant in the wound prior to doing so to keep the hair out of the wound. It will wash away when you wash the wound.
    • The hair is clipped away to allow the wound to be seen easily, to keep hair from covering the wound, and to help when you need to wash away any drainage.
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    Clean the wound. After you are finished removing the surrounding fur, set the scissors or clippers aside and run the water until it is warm to the touch. Hot water or cold water will be painful, so avoid these temperature extremes. Run water over the wound for two to three minutes to remove any visible and invisible contaminants, and then gently wash with antiseptic for a minute. Too strong antiseptic can be damaging to tissue, so always following the directions on the label for the correct dilution

    • Rinse again for two to three minutes and then turn the water off.
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    Dry the wound. Blot the wound and surrounding skin dry. Be sure to use a clean towel, so that the wound does not get infected.

    • Generally the wound will be left open to heal, as it is hard to get bandages to adhere to the dog’s skin and they tend to chew them off.
    • You can place a thin layer of the antibiotic ointment on the wound, but dogs are likely to lick this off unless you keep a constant careful eye on them.
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    Monitor the laceration. With timely and proper wound care most simple lacerations will heal just fine. Look at the wound every couple of hours the first day, and then check it four to five times a day for the next couple of days. Look for any sign of infection, which include:[4]

    • Redness to the surrounding skin.
    • Failure to heal.
    • Swelling or puffy appearance to skin and wound.
    • Drainage beyond day one.
    • Pain.
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    Seek veterinary help, if needed. If in doubt, please seek veterinary help. Your pet may require antibiotics for any infection, or possibly stitches to close the wound.

reference: https://www.wikihow.com/Treat-Lacerations-on-Dogs

How to Treat Gastric Torsion and Bloat in Labrador Retrievers

May 1, 2018 Comments Off on How to Treat Gastric Torsion and Bloat in Labrador Retrievers Helping Dogs

Gastric torsion is known by several names, including bloat, but the most technically correct term is gastric dilatation and volvulus (GDV). GDV is a life-threatening condition, whereby the stomach flips over itself, sealing the entrance and exit. This causes a buildup of gas within the stomach which, when untreated, will kill the dog.[1] Labrador retrievers are one of a number of breeds that are predisposed to this condition because they have deep chests. If you have a Labrador retriever, you should be aware of the signs of GDV and how to get it treated, as well as how to try to avoid it in the first place.

1

Getting Treatment For GDV

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    Take your dog to a veterinarian. There is no home remedy or medication that you can give to a dog suffering to bloat. The treatment is surgical, to decompress and reposition the stomach. For this procedure, time is of the essence. Because of this, if you suspect bloat, take your dog to the vet immediately.

    • Your first action should be to phone the vet to warn them you are in the way in, and then take your dog directly to the clinic.
    • If your normal veterinarian’s office is closed, for instance the incident happens in the evening, take your dog to an emergency veterinarian.
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    Approve life-saving procedures. The first thing your vet will likely do is put the dog on a drip and give the dog high-rate intravenous fluids in order to control the shock and protect organs from shutting down. After this initial stabilization, the vet may try and pass a stomach tube.[2] If the vet is able to pass a stomach tube then it provides an escape route for the gas, and to stomach pump out the gut contents.

    • If the dog is co-operative, they may try to put the tube in using a gag (to stop the dog biting the stomach tube), although in many cases sedation is needed.
    • Sometimes if the twist is not a full 360 degrees, passing a stomach tube and then rolling the dog over can correct the twist.
    • If it’s not possible to pass a stomach tube the vet passes a large bore needle or a special catheter through the body wall into the stomach as an emergency measure to relieve the gas pressure.[3] This buys some time and helps stabilize the dog.
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    Discuss surgical options. It is essential that the dog has the stomach repositioned, and this can only be done by a laparotomy. The dog is given a general anesthetic and the vet opens into the belly. The direction of twist is identified and the stomach counter-rotated. Once in a normal position, the vet checks to see if any part of the stomach wall needs resecting as the tissue is dead. In addition, the spleen gets dragged out of position with the stomach and may need removing.[4] The vet will flush out the repositioned stomach either via a stomach tube, or by incising direct into the stomach.

    • Since there is a risk of re-twisting, the vet may opt to give an anesthetic and perform a preventative procedure called a gastropexy. This involves suturing the stomach to the body wall in such a way that it can’t physically flip over again.[5]
  4. 4

    Give attentive after care. The period immediately after surgery is a dangerous time, as toxins flood into the bloodstream once the stomach is back in position. This can lead to irregular heart beats and a possible heart attack. The vet will monitor the patient and keep them on an intravenous drip to try and correct any rhythm disturbances with intravenous drugs.[6]

    • After the in-hospital recovery period, you will need to care for your dog as it recovers fully at home. Give it lots of love and attention but treat it gently and let it rest. Follow your veterinarian’s suggestions for after surgery care as well.
  5. 5

    Reduce risk factors in the future. Certain factors have been identified as increasing the risk of bloat. While it is not possible to completely protect against GDV/bloat, you can lower the chances of it occurring by taking the following steps:[7]

    • Feed your dog from a bowl on the floor. There is an increased risk of bloat with dogs feed from a height.
    • Use a slow feeder bowl. Bloat is associated with gasping down air, in the manner greedy eaters do.
    • Feed your dog 2 or 3 meals a day, as one large meal is associated with increased risk.
    • Do not exercise for 90 minutes after eating. The weight of food in the stomach makes it more like to flip over.
    • Feed your dog a diet that is low in fermentable ingredients, such as grain or soy.
    • Do not allow the dog to gulp down lots of water after eating. Like eating food too fast, this can introduce too much air to the stomach.

2

Identifying Bloat

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    Look for the signs of GDV/bloat. Bloat occurs after eating, as the weight of food in the stomach makes it more pendulous. The risk is greatly increased if the dog is exercised soon after eating. The signs to look for include:[8]

    • Restlessness, pacing, and difficulty settling as if in discomfort.
    • Drooling saliva.
    • Trying to be sick but not bringing anything up.
    • Rapid breathing and a racing heart, even at rest.
    • Progressive swelling of the belly (this isn’t always obvious until the later stages).
    • Pale gums.
    • Collapse.
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    Take your dog to the vet if in doubt. Untreated bloat is ultimately fatal, often within hours. Also, the longer treatment is delayed, the greater risk of complications even if treated. Thus, it is crucial to seek emergency veterinary attention if you suspect that GDV is even a possibility.

    • It is better to have a false alarm than to wait and see what happens and have the dog deteriorate.
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    Understand how seriously and quickly bloat affects a dog. Bloat is such a serious condition for a number of reasons. Initially, not only is the stomach twisted with fermenting gut contents trapped inside, but the blood supply to the stomach is also twisted and impaired. This cuts off the blood supply to the stomach and its tissues start to die. The body rapidly goes into a state of shock, which in itself can be life-threatening.[9]

    • As the stomach swells, this compresses the major blood vessels to the abdomen and impedes blood returning to the heart, which worsens the shock. Also, toxins from the gut contents get into the bloodstream, and this plus electrolyte disturbances can trigger irregular heartbeats which can lead to a heart attack. In addition, micro blood clots form, which lodge in the organs and send them into failure.
    • A combination of shock, blood clots, and a necrotic (dying) stomach and (possibly) spleen, mean that some dogs die after only a few hours of illness.

    reference: https://www.wikihow.com/Treat-Gastric-Torsion-and-Bloat-in-Labrador-Retrievers

How to Treat Dog Splinters

May 1, 2018 Comments Off on How to Treat Dog Splinters Helping Dogs

As much as your dog loves to play outside, he can occasionally get a splinter in his paws. Splinters can be very painful for your dog. Fortunately, treating a splinter is a relatively simple process that can be done in the convenience of your own home.

Part1

Removing the Splinter

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    Find the splinter. Depending on how deeply embedded they are in the skin, splinters are not always easy to see right away. Your dog will probably let you know with his body language where the splinter is. For example, your dog may continually paw at his mouth to try to remove a splinter in a particular paw. He may also lick and bite at whichever area has the splinter. If your dog is holding up one of his legs or is hesitant to put weight on a certain paw, the splinter is probably in that paw.

    • Splinters typically do not cause a lot of bleeding, so you may not be able to find the splinter by looking for a wound that’s bleeding.
    • In addition to using your eyes, use your hands to gently touch his paws to find exactly where the splinter is. Talk gently and softly with your dog while you are doing this to reassure him that he will be okay.[1]
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    Clean the affected area. Before attempting to remove the splinter, the area around the splinter should be cleaned thoroughly to prevent infection. Use warm, soapy water and a clean towel to clean the area.[2]

    • The area where the splinter is located is probably very painful, so be gentle when you are cleaning the area.
    • It may be helpful to fill a shallow bucket with the warm, soapy water. In this way, you could let your dog’s paw soak in the water, which may feel very soothing to him. Use a small towel to clean his paw while it is soaking.
    • Use another clean towel to dry his paw after you have cleaned it.
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    Sterilize your tweezers. Sterilizing your tweezers means that you are destroying microorganisms that could cause disease or infection. If your tweezers are not clean, you could cause a skin infection in the area where you remove the splinter. You can sterilize your tweezers by dipping them in rubbing alcohol.[3]

    • After you sterilize the tweezers, set them on a clean paper towel so that they can dry and remain clean before you use them.
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    Remove the splinter with tweezers. After you have your dog’s paw in your hand, get as good a grip as you can on the protruding end of the splinter with the tweezers. If the splinter is embedded too deeply into the skin, it will be very difficult to remove the splinter with your tweezers; if this is the case, you can sterilize a small needle and use the needle to pry the splinter up from under the skin. If you still cannot grip the splinter after using the needle, take your dog to your vet so that they can remove the splinter.[4]

    • Just like with cleaning your dog’s paw, be gentle when you are removing the splinter. Your dog is going to be pain while you’re doing this, so talk to him in gentle and soothing tones to reduce his anxiety.
    • Be careful not to push the splinter further into the skin, or break the splinter, when trying to pull it out.[5] If either of these things happens, take your dog to the vet so that they can remove the splinter for you.
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    Clean the affected area again. Just like with cleaning the affected area before removing the splinter, be gentle as you are cleaning the area after you’ve taken the splinter out. This area is still going to be sensitive and painful, so avoid vigorously cleaning the wound.[6]

    • Other than warm and soapy water, you can also use a solution that is 50% water and 50% hydrogen peroxide.[7] Hydrogen peroxide is a clear liquid that can be used to clean wounds and prevent infection.
    • Dry the affected area with a clean and dry towel.

Part2

Bandaging the Affected Area

  1. 1

    Determine if the paw needs to be bandaged. Just as when you remove a splinter from your own finger, not all splinter wounds on dogs need to be bandaged after removal. If the puncture wound is tiny, and the dog is now happy to stand on the paw, then do not bandage. Instead, ease back on his exercise for a couple of days, and bathe the paw in salty water after a walk in order to remove road grit.

    • If after two days the area looks dry and clean, there is no pus or smelly discharge, and he is walking soundly, then you can return to normal.
    • Bandaging would be needed if the puncture hole is large, there is a smelly discharge from the hole, your dog still isn’t fully placing weight on his paw after several minutes, or you are not confident that the whole of the splinter came out.[8]
  2. 2

    Apply triple antibiotic ointment to the affected area. Preventing infection will be very important after you have removed the splinter. To apply the ointment, place a thick coat of triple antibiotic ointment onto a clean, non-stick 2×2 gauze pad and gently press the pad against your dog’s paw.[9] Alternatively, you can apply the ointment directly to the affected area on your dog’s paw.

    • Neosporin is a triple antibiotic ointment for humans, but you can use it on your dog to treat the area from where you removed the splinter.[10]
    • If you choose to apply the ointment directly to the paw, you will still need to press the gauze against the paw to keep the ointment in place.
  3. 3

    Secure the gauze pad to your dog’s paw. To do this, you will need two strips of adhesive tape that are several inches long. Rather than using Scotch tape, use the white adhesive tape that you can find at your local pharmacy.[11]

    • While still holding your dog’s paw up, attach one strip of tape on each side of the gauze and press the tape down on your dog’s leg several inches up from the wound. This should look something like a splint.[12]
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    Wrap cotton gauze around your dog’s paw. Cotton gauze is a roll of white, non-stick gauze that is available at your local pharmacy. Keep your dog’s toes uncovered as you wrap the gauze, and continue to wrap it several inches up your dog’s leg. Be careful not to wrap too tightly, since this could cut off circulation. Your dog’s toes will feel cold if there is no circulation. Wrapping too tightly could also cause your dog’s toes to swell. If you notice that you have wrapped the gauze too tightly, immediately loosen the gauze and wrap again more loosely.[13]

    • Keeping the toes uncovered will allow you to see if they’re swollen or feel cold.
    • If the gauze is too difficult to tear, use scissors to cut the gauze.
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    Wrap a self-adhesive bandage over the cotton gauze. The self-adhesive bandage will keep the cotton gauze in place. You can purchase this type of bandage at your local pharmacy. As with the cotton gauze, do not wrap this bandage too tightly.[14] Cut the bandage with scissors if you are not able to tear it.

    • Cover the bandage with a plastic bag when your dog goes outside to keep the bandage clean and dry.[15]
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    Prevent your dog from removing the bandage. Your dog will probably try to do everything he can to remove the bandage, which could lengthen the wound-healing process. Other than keeping a close eye on him and stopping him when you see him chew at the bandage, you can put an Elizabethan collar (e-collar) around his neck.[16] An e-collar is one of the most effective methods to keep a pet from bothering their bandage.

    • If he chews off the bandage, take this opportunity to inspect the affected area. If the area looks clean without signs of infection (redness, swelling, discharge), you probably will not need to reapply the bandage. If you are unsure, contact your veterinarian for advice.
    • If your dog has managed to remove the bandage, he may have also licked the Neosporin. Neosporin can be toxic to dogs, causing signs such as vomiting, drooling, and loss of appetite. If you observe these signs after your dog has removed the bandage, contact the Pet Poison Hotline or your veterinarian immediately.[17]
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    Remove the bandage after one to two days. The wound caused by a splinter is typically not very serious, so it is not necessary to keep the bandage on for an extended period of time. However, if you notice that the affected area hasn’t healed after several days, take your dog to your vet for closer examination.[18]

    • When you remove the bandage and clean off the excess triple antibiotic ointment, the affected area should look clean without any swelling. You should not see any redness or any type of discharge coming from the wound.
    • If you see swelling, redness, or discharge, it is quite possible that the wound has become infected. Take your dog to your vet for further treatment.

    reference: https://www.wikihow.com/Treat-Dog-Splinters

How to Treat Bloat in Great Danes

May 1, 2018 Comments Off on How to Treat Bloat in Great Danes Helping Dogs

Bloat, or gastric dilation, is a dangerous condition that happens to large-breed dogs, including Great Danes. This surgical emergency happens when the stomach fills with fluid and gas and expands. This can progress to the stomach twisting or rotation around its short axis, leading to shock, death of the involved tissues, and possibly death of the dog.[1] Because bloat is so serious, you should be able to spot the signs of the condition quickly, so that you can get your dog to a veterinary professional for treatment as soon as possible.

Part1

Spotting the Signs of Bloat

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    Monitor dogs that have risk factors for bloat. Middle-aged and older large and giant breed dogs with deep chests, like the Great Dane, are more susceptible to developing bloat than smaller breeds. In addition, there are other risk factors, which include:[2][3]

    • Siblings or parents that have experienced bloat
    • Once a day feeding.
    • Vigorous exercise before or after feeding time.
    • Rapid eating of food- which adds more air in the stomach.
    • Conditions in which the outflow of food from the stomach is slowed or impeded.
    • Feeding dry foods with a high oil or fat content.
    • Nervous or high strung Great Danes.
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    Look for the behavioral signs of bloat. Bloat occurs rapidly and needs immediate veterinarian attention to prevent the Great Dane’s death. If your dog is exhibiting any of the behavioral signs of bloat, you need to take the risk of bloat seriously. These include:[4]

    • Pacing
    • Restlessness
    • Reluctance to stand or walk
    • Inability to stand or walk
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    Keep an eye out for the physical signs of bloat. These are the tell-tale signs that your animal could be having a medical emergency. The physical signs of bloat in a Great Dane are:[5][6]

    • Excessive salivation
    • Retching or dry heaving without bringing anything up (The esophagus is involved in the twist so nothing can come back through the mouth.)
    • Abdomen (belly) becomes enlarged
    • Rapid and weak pulse
    • Pale gums
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    Take immediate action. If you see these signs contact a veterinarian immediately. Dogs can die soon after the signs appear, due to the damage done to internal organs, collapse of the circulatory (blood) system, toxin buildup, and shock.[7]

    • If your normal veterinary office is not open when you identify the signs of bloat, you should seek out an emergency veterinary clinic in your area. This is one situation that really is an emergency and requires emergency treatment.

Part2

Getting Veterinary Treatment

  1. 1

    Take your dog to a veterinarian. The veterinarian will do a general examination, ask questions about the onset of signs, and take blood samples to check for signs of shock and internal organ damage. Radiographs (X-rays) are generally taken, which will demonstrate the bloated stomach along with the twist in the stomach.

    • In some cases, a needle will be stuck into abdominal cavity and suction is applied to the syringe. This is done to determine if the stomach has ruptured, an unfortunate outcome in some cases of bloat.
    • A tube may be passed through the patient’s mouth and into the stomach to relieve the pressure of air buildup. Occasionally a tube will be placed directly through the skin and muscle into the stomach to relieve the pressure in the stomach.
    • An intravenous (IV) line will be placed in a vein to provide medications and fluids.
  2. 2

    Discuss surgical options for your dog. The treatment of bloat is surgery to untwist the stomach and to suture part of the stomach to the inside of the abdomen wall to prevent it from recurring. This is called a gastropexy.[8]

    • If the stomach ruptured the stomach will be repaired and the internal abdomen will be flushed. Dogs will be closely monitored after surgery. Generally the dog will be placed on antibiotics and pain killers before and after surgery.
  3. 3

    Help your dog through recovery. Depending on your veterinarian clinic and how intensive the surgery was, the dog will need to remain hospitalized for up to 7 days. After that, you will need to be gentle with it and help it recover gradually. This means keeping it from licking or gnawing on stitches, as well as limiting its activity.

    • Sadly, up to 15% of dogs with bloat do not survive surgery despite the skill of the veterinarian.[9]

Part3

Preventing Bloat

  1. 1

    Feed your dog multiple small meals a day. Researchers at Purdue University have compiled research into the causes and prevention of bloat in large-breed dogs, such as the Great Dane.[10] Through this valuable research, they have determined that many ways to prevent bloat revolve around how you feed your dog. One key prevention technique is to feed your dog multiple small meals, instead of one big meal.

    • For dry food feed, give your dog no more than one cup per thirty pounds of body weight per meal.
  2. 2

    Do not feed from a raised bowl. Feed from a bowl on the ground, which provides a better angle for the dog. This also applies to water bowls as well.

    • There is some controversy surrounding whether this actually impacts a dog’s chances of developing bloat. However, what little research there is suggests that not using a raised dish may help.[11]
  3. 3

    Slow down your dog’s eating. If your dog is a greedy eater and gulps its food, invest in a food dish that forces the dog to eat slower such as the slow feeder or fun feeder. Slowing down your dog’s eating will help it more slowly digest its food, and will lessen the chances the stomach turns due to excess food.[12]

    • You should also restrict gorging on water, as this can impact the dog’s stomach as well.[13]
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    Restrict activity immediately after eating. Wait one hour before and two hours after eating before letting your dog exercise or before going for walks. Especially avoid vigorous exercise that involve running, jumping, or swimming.[14]

    • Activity increases the chance of the stomach turning. Instead, let your dog have some quiet, calm time to digest its meal.
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    Control your dog’s diet. This means that if you live in a rural area, don’t allow your Great Dane to roam. He or she may find unsuitable food (deer or other animal carcasses, piles of grain left over from harvesting), gorge on them, and then develop bloat.

    • Also, do not feed table scraps to your Great Dane. A large-breed dog, such as the Great Dane, needs a controlled diet.
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    Feed an energy-dense diet. An energy-dense diet should be given to your dog to reduce the risk of bloat because it will mean that you have to feed the dog less for it to get enough calories. Check labels so that fat isn’t in the top four ingredients.[15]

    • Ask your veterinarian for advice if you are uncertain what to feed.
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    Do not feed an all dry food diet. Include wet foods, for instance the canned variety of the food you are feeding, or large meat chunks in the diet. Again, ask your veterinarian for advice if you aren’t sure what to feed.[16]

    • However, do not moisten dry food. Get a canned variety of the food if you want to add a little wet food to the diet.
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    Consider preventative surgery. Discuss with your veterinarian if your Great Dane would be a good candidate for a precautionary gastropexy. The procedure consists of attaching the stomach to the abdominal wall, which prevents it from turning. [17]

    • Military service dogs (large breeds like German shepherd and Belgian Malinois) are frequently given a precautionary gastropexy to avoid any emergency situations when they are on the battlefield.[18]
    • However, most owners opt to monitor their large and giant breed dogs, instead of taking this measure.

    reference: https://www.wikihow.com/Treat-Bloat-in-Great-Danes

How to Treat Dog Bite Wounds on Dogs

May 1, 2018 Comments Off on How to Treat Dog Bite Wounds on Dogs Helping Dogs

If your dog is attacked by another dog, your dog may have wounds as a result of the fight. It is imperative that you determine how serious the bite on your dog is, and whether it requires an immediate emergency trip to the vet clinic or if it is a nip or surface bite you can treat at home. Unfortunately, some injuries may be deeper than they appear at first glance, so if you are ever in doubt or uncertain how serious the bite is, take your dog in to your vet to check the severity of the bite.

Part1

Determining if the Dog Bite Requires a Vet

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    If your dog is bleeding heavily, take him to the vet. Blood pumping from the wound is a sign that an artery or large vein has been damaged. The blood vessel may need to be ligated (tied off) in a surgical procedure done by your vet.
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    Use a sterile gauze swab to apply pressure to the wound. Do this as a first aid measure on the way to the vet. You will find sterile gauze swabs in a first aid kit.

    • If you don’t have a first aid kit handy, you can use an article of clothing like a cotton t-shirt to create a pad and press it against the wound with sufficient pressure to stop the bleeding. After 5 minutes, cautiously lift the pad up. If the bleeding starts again, replace the pad and hold it in place until you arrive at the vet clinic.[1]
    • Use a cotton t-shirt rather than a wool sweater or anything fuzzy, as fibers from these materials can get into the wound.
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    Check your dog to see if they have rapid, shallow breathing. This is a possible indication of shock, which can be life-threatening in it’s own right, or that a tooth has penetrated into your dog’s chest and is allowing air to enter the thoracic cavity. Take them to the vet clinic as soon as possible.

    • If you can see a wound over your dog’s ribs, place a pad (a sterile gauze swab or a folded cotton t-shirt) over the wound and either hold it there, or secure it in place with a tie or belt, tied around the dog’s chest. You are trying to seal off the hole to prevent air from entering your dog’s chest and causing his lungs to collapse.
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    If your dog displays any weakness, pale gums, or loses consciousness, take him to the vet. There are all signs of possible shock or internal bleeding. Stop any obvious hemorrhage with sterile gauze or a cotton pad, cover the dog with a coat or blanket to keep him warm, and make your way to the vet clinic.[2]
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    Search for any large wounds or flaps of skin on your dog. If your dog was shaken in the jaws of their attacker, a large wound or skin flap may have been torn away from the underlying tissues.
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    Use sachets of sterile saline from a first aid kit to flush the wound. If you do not have access to a first aid kit with saline, you can make a salt water solution.

    • Use 16 ounces of previously boiled water and stir in one teaspoon of salt. Allow the solution to cool to body temperature and then soak cotton wool in the salt water, and use it to clean your dog’s injuries.
    • If you do not have access to sterile saline or time to make a salt water solution and your dog’s wound warrants a trip to the vet, don’t worry about this step. Your vet will be sure to thoroughly flush the area.
  7. 7

    Clean any wounds as best as you can before heading to the vet. To clean the wound, snip the corner off a saline sachet and squirt the fluid over the wound. This flushes away contaminants and reduces the risk of infection setting in. Reserve a small volume of saline and use it to moisten the sterile dressing pad in the first aid kit. Place the moist dressing pad over the wound and bandage it in place. This keeps the exposed tissue moist on the way to the clinic and in optimal condition for suturing.[3]

Part2

Determining if the Dog Bite is Treatable at Home

  1. 1

    If your dog is bright, alert, and the wound is not bleeding, you can clean the wound at home. A nip or skin wound is fine to treat at home. Once you clean the wound, you can contact your vet to confirm if the dog should be brought in to be checked.
  2. 2

    Clip the fur around the wound. To see the full extent of the damage, use a pair of scissors, ideally with curved blades, to trim the hair away from the wound edges. Start trimming at the wound edge and snip around the area until the whole wound is exposed. Repeat this for all the bite wounds you can see.[4]

    • Keep the blades parallel to the dog’s skin, and look carefully to make sure you are not about to snip any skin. You may want to keep the scissors a fraction of an inch above the dog’s skin to prevent accidental injury.
    • Curved scissors help you to avoid accidental snips because the blade curves away from the skin. You can improvise with a pair of nail scissors if you do not have curved scissors.
    • If you use a small pair of regular scissors, work with the tips rather than the whole blade for finer control.
  3. 3

    Bathe the wound in saline solution. Saline solution is ideal because it is sympathetic to the exposed tissue and will not dry it out.

    • If you do not have access to a first aid kit with saline, you can make a salt water solution. Use 16 ounces of previously boiled water and stir in one teaspoon of salt. Allow the solution to cool to body temperature and then soak cotton wool in the salt water, and use it to clean the injuries.
  4. 4

    Ask someone to assist you as you clean your dog’s wound. Your dog will likely wiggle around and get jumpy or cranky as you try to assess and clean the bite, so ask a friend or neighbor to hold his head to steady him.

    • If you cannot get someone to assist you, use a tie or cord as a muzzle. To do this, wind the tie around and around his muzzle with his mouth shut, and then tie the ends on themselves.[5]
  5. 5

    If your dog has puncture wounds, bring him to the vet. Puncture wounds are usually circular and measure less than a quarter of an inch across. These wounds are inflicted by the attacker’s canine teeth and do not always need to be sutured as they may heal on their own. But it’s best to get the puncture wound checked by a vet, because sometimes there is a pocket of dead space beneath the puncture.

    • Dead Space occurs when the skin is wrenched away from the underlying tissues and is no longer attached. This forms a pocket, into which seepage of serum, or pus, can prevent healing. Dead Space may need surgical attention to tack it down, in order for the wound to heal.[6]

Part3

Understanding How Your Vet Will Treat the Bite

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    Ask your vet to assess the extent of the bite and determine if sutures are needed. If the wound does not need suturing, you can expect it to scab over, and a week or so later the scab will peel away to reveal healed tissue underneath.

    • Check the scabbed area every day to ensure it is dry and there is no pus present. Daily bathing with a cotton wool ball soaked in saline helps to keep the area clean and reduce the risk of infection. If the area starts to swell, or pus is discharging from the wound, consult with your vet.
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    Allow your vet to suture the wound. Wounds longer than half an inch may need suturing. This can often be done under sedation and local anesthetic, unless the dog is aggressive or the wound in a difficult to access,in which case general anesthesia is required.

    • Your veterinarian freshens the wound edges to provide a healthy healing surface and then places sutures. These stay in place for 10-14 days and can be removed without sedation, since it is a non painful procedure to snip the suture and pull it out.
    • Check the sutures every day to make sure the area is dry, there is no pus discharge and it is not swollen. If the wound gets muddy, keep it clean by gently bathing it with cotton wool soaked in salty water.
    • Make sure your dog can not lick at the wound, which may mean covering the wound with a T-shirt or putting a buster collar on the dog. If the wound becomes red, swollen, or there is a pus discharge, check in with your vet.
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    Get pain relief medication from your vet. Your dog is likely to be bruised and sore, and 4- 5 days of pain relief will be a much needed kindness for him. Usually, non-steroidal anti-inflammatory drugs (NSAIDs) are supplied. These act by inhibiting the release of chemical messengers (cyclooxygenases) in the body that encourage inflammation and pain.[7]

    • This medication will come as a liquid and should be given with or after food in order to reduce the risk of gastric ulceration.
    • The dose is 0.1mg/kg given orally once a day. A typical dose is 1 milliliter (0.034  fl oz) of meloxicam (1.5mg/ml strength) for each 15 kg of body weight.[8]
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    Ask your vet if antibiotics are needed. Depending on the vet, they may or may not prescribe antibiotics, but dog bites are not sterile so antibiotics are a wise precaution.

    • A broad spectrum antibiotic like a potentiated amoxycillin can work against the bugs commonly found in a dog’s mouth. This antibiotic acts by interfering with the bacterial metabolism and also disrupts their cell membrane.
    • A typical dose is 12.5mg/kg twice a day orally for 5-7 days. So, for example, a 20 kg dog takes a 250mg tablet twice a day.[9]

    reference: https://www.wikihow.com/Treat-Dog-Bite-Wounds-on-Dogs

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