Month: April 2018

How to Cure Frequent Dog Vomiting

April 30, 2018 Comments Off on How to Cure Frequent Dog Vomiting Helping Dogs

It is distressing when your dog is sick and starts to vomit. Aside from the mess, vomiting can also signal that there is something seriously wrong with your dog. In most cases vomiting will soon pass, however, some dogs vomit regularly without an immediately obvious cause. These cases can be more difficult to resolve because you need to figure out the underlying cause of the vomiting in order to treat the symptom.

Part1

Diagnosing the Cause of Vomiting

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    Determine if your dog simply has an upset stomach. Acute vomiting happens suddenly and forcefully. The dog vomits and vomits until there is nothing left in its stomach to vomit, except for yellow bile.[1] If your dog has an upset stomach, this acute vomiting should pass quickly.

    • If you know your dog has eaten a food or substance that does not agree with it immediately stop your dog from gaining access to that item.
    • Non-specific gastroenteritis, otherwise known as an upset stomach, means no cause for the stomach upset can be found and the illness passes rather quickly. The other common causes of acute vomiting generally need medical or surgical intervention to diagnose and treat.
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    Consider other causes if acute vomiting continues. Many things can cause episodes of acute vomiting. Common causes, other than non-specific gastroenteritis, include:[2]

    • Liver disease
    • Kidney disease
    • Pancreatitis
    • A foreign body in the intestines (rocks, bones, toy)
    • Ingestion of toxic substances
    • Inflammation of the intestinal tract
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    Determine if your dog has a chronic problem. Chronic vomiting is vomiting that happens off and on with some regularity. While it is normal for a dog to vomit occasionally, due to an upset stomach, this behavior on a consistent basis can signal that there is a larger health problem.
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    Understand the difference between vomiting and regurgitating. Some cases that are thought to be vomiting are actually cases of regurgitation.[3] Vomiting is the ejection of food from the stomach. Generally there are some “warning” signs before vomiting, such as licking the lips, salivation or acting uncomfortable. With regurgitation, food is ejected from the esophagus generally without force and without warning. It is important to recognize the differences between the two, as they have different causes. For example, regurgitation is caused by disorders with the esophagus such as:[4]

    • Esophagus weakness due to diseases such as myasthenia gravis and Addison’s disease
    • Megaesophagus (non-reversible enlargement of the esophagus)
    • Foreign body stuck in the esophagus
    • Inflammation especially that caused by frequent vomiting
    • Stricture or narrowing of the esophagus (this generally happens after injury to the esophagus)
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    Get a veterinary diagnosis. Because of the many sources and causes of vomiting, it can be hard to figure out the most appropriate treatment. The first step to curing the problem is coming up with an accurate diagnosis of the problem.

    • Most of the time to get an accurate diagnosis you need to bring your dog to the veterinarian. An examination will be performed and, depending on the results, further testing may need to be done. Blood and urine tests can determine if your dog suffers from a disease, such as kidney or liver failure, pancreatitis, or if an infection may be causing the vomiting. X-rays can help determine if your dog has eaten a foreign body or if there is a mass (tumor) in the gastrointestinal tract.

Part2

Treating Vomiting

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    Treat the dog at home. It is okay to watch your dog closely at home if your dog is still happy and begging for food after it vomits. If it has other symptoms, such as lethargy or spasm, you should take it to the vet immediately.

    • Keep your dog happy but it is also a good idea to protect your home from additional messes. Place the dog in a room with hard floors, in other words no carpet, so that any future vomiting can be easily cleaned up. Keep it company, however, and try to soothe it with lots of love and affection.
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    Feed the dog a bland diet after 12 hours of fasting. The treatment for dogs with upset stomachs is to withhold all food for 12 hours (despite the begging) and give them small amounts of water every 2-3 hours during this time. If they are able to keep the water down after 12 hours of food withholding, you can offer them two teaspoons (for a small dog), two tablespoons (for a medium sized dog), or ¼ cup (for a large dog) of a bland diet.

    • A bland diet consists of carbohydrates and proteins that a dog can easily digest. The most common bland diet to give a dog is a mixture of cooked white rice and boiled chicken, without bones or skin.[5] This meal gives your dog’s digestive system a break because it is very easy to digest.
    • If the dog can keep the first small amounts down, offer the diet in these same amounts every 3 – 4 hours for the first day. Then mix it with the dog’s regular food half and half the next day. By day three, the dog should be back to its regular food and feeding amount.
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    Continue to monitor your dog’s health. Even after your dog has stopped vomiting, you should still keep a close eye on them for a few days. Call a veterinarian if the following occurs:

    • If the dog is continuously vomiting.
    • If the dog has other signs of illness: diarrhea, extreme lethargy, pale gums, frequent urination, yellow appearance to the eyeballs or skin.
    • If after a 24 hour food withhold the dog is still vomiting.
    • If you have any other concerns or suspect it’s more than a simple case of vomiting.
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    Take the dog to the vet if illness increases. At any time if the dog starts to vomit again or is unable to keep water down it should be brought to a veterinarian’s office. It should also be brought to the veterinarian’s office if any of the following signs occur:

    • Increase in frequency or amount of urination
    • Yellow appearance to eye whites, skin or mouth
    • Pale gums along with extreme lethargy
    • Vomiting blood
    • Diarrhea that is very watery or has blood in it
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    Follow your veterinarian’s treatment plan. Treatment depends upon the cause of the vomiting. Some treatments include:

    • Withholding of food for up to 24 hours, then a gradual reintroduction of food or a bland diet for up to 7 days. The dog can have small drinks of water as long as it is able to keep this down. Otherwise withhold water as well.[6]
    • Medicine to treat intestinal parasites, inflammation, or infection.
    • Surgery to remove foreign bodies.
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    Give ongoing treatment. Ongoing management will be needed in cases of chronic diseases. Food and medication changes are used to manage liver disease, inflammation of the intestinal tract, kidney disease, Addison’s disease, and myasthenia gravis. Food changes may also need to be made in dog’s with sensitive stomachs.[7]

    • In dogs with megaesophagus special feeding arrangements need to be made along with food and medication. These dogs need to be fed in a vertical position, not merely from an elevated bowl, and they need to stay in that position for 20-30 minutes after eating to ensure all the food stays in the stomach. A special chair, called a Bailey chair, can be made or purchased to keep them in this eating position.[8]
    • A soft to wet food diet is also recommended along with medications to increase the movement of the esophagus and to reduce acid from the stomach. With proper feeding position, food and medication dogs with megaesophagus can lead a long and healthy life.

Reference: https://www.wikihow.com/Cure-Frequent-Dog-Vomiting

How to Save a Choking Dog

April 30, 2018 Comments Off on How to Save a Choking Dog Helping Dogs

Dogs use their mouths to explore the world, and, fortunately, their anatomy includes safeguards that make choking rare. But it isn’t impossible for a dog to experience choking, and it’s important that you be able to distinguish between a choking dog and a dog dealing with illness or another issue. In a life-threatening emergency there may not be time to contact a vet, in which case you must administer first-aid yourself; however, if the dog is uncomfortable but not in immediate danger, your better option is to keep them calm and seek veterinary advice. This article explains how determine if your dog is choking, and what to do if so.

Part1

Evaluating Your Dog

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    Check to see if your dog is coughing. Initially, if your dog is capable of coughing, wait a few moments to see if your dog can manage to cough up the obstruction on their own.

    • Only wait for this possibility if your dog seems to be able to breathe well.
    • If your dog is also wheezing, struggling, or gasping for breath, call your vet immediately.
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    Check for signs of choking. Dogs may show several telling behaviors if they aren’t able to breathe. When trying to determine if your dog is choking, begin by first attempting to calm them — the more panicked the dog becomes, the greater their demand for oxygen and the worse the situation. Signs that a dog is choking include:[1]

    • Gagging or drooling excessively — this is one of the most obvious ways to tell if your dog is choking. If they are drooling heavily and unable to swallow, choking is more likely.
    • Unable to swallow
    • Standing in the “air hunger position” with their head and neck held low and in a straight line
    • Acting unusually agitated or frantic, pawing at their mouth, and whimpering
    • Coughing forcefully, wheezing, or gasping for breath
    • Having grey or blue gums
    • Having a visible object in the back of their throat
    • Displaying exaggerated chest movements
    • Collapsing
    • Losing consciousness
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    Encourage your dog to swallow. This is a useful strategy to help you determine if your dog is truly choking.

    • You can do so by offering your dog a treat, gently rubbing their throat, or by pinching their nostrils together. If your dog eats a treat, then they are not choking.
    • Once the dog swallows, if the sound stops, they aren’t choking.
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    Look inside the dog’s mouth. By visually checking the dog’s mouth, you can find out if an object is obstructing its airway and act accordingly.

    • Gently open its mouth by squeezing its upper lip inwards over the big molars at the back of the mouth. At the same time, apply downward pressure on the point of its jaw to further open the mouth.
    • Look as far back towards its throat as possible — it helps to have a flashlight and someone else to hold the dog for this. You are looking for any obstructions such as a piece of bone or a stick.
    • Restrain a larger dog before opening its mouth wide. Do this by grabbing the scruff of hair between the ears and holding the dog’s head steady.[2]
    • If you can see something in the throat, try to grip it with pliers and remove it. Take extreme care not to accidentally force the object further back.
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    Call the vet. If your dog is choking, showing signs of choking, or indeed having breathing difficulties, always phone your vet for advice. The exception to this rule is if your dog has completely collapsed or has lost consciousness. In that instance, begin administering what first-aid you can.

    • You may be talked through first aid procedures while waiting for emergency help and likely you will be asked to bring your pet in immediately.
    • If you cannot reach your vet, look for emergency 24-hour veterinarians. Their number will usually be in the phone book, or you can call a local animal welfare or rescue agency for details. Emergency vets or animal hospitals are usually available in major towns and cities.
    • Your local emergency number will be able to give you the ASPCA or the Humane Society emergency number. They will have an emergency vet to give you help on the phone.
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    Seek out someone else to help. Whether you take your dog to the vet or try to administer first-aid, it’s best to have another person present to help you.

    • If you need to drive your pet to an emergency vet, it is best to have one person with the dog to help immediately if the situation worsens.
    • If the vet has you try to dislodge the object yourself, it’s advisable to do so with someone else’s help.
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    Rule out other causes. Because you can do more harm than good by executing certain maneuvers on a dog that doesn’t need them, it is important to be as certain as possible that the dog is actually choking and in danger, rather than merely appearing to choke. The following are conditions that may cause a dog to behave similarly to a dog that’s choking.

    • A Long Soft Palate: A common anatomical quirk found in many dogs is having a tongue and a soft palate that are too big for their mouth. This is especially common in brachycephalic dogs (those with shortened noses and baby-like faces) such as the Pug, Pekingese, Lhasa Apso, and Shih Tzu, though it also occurs in small breeds such as the Poodle, West Highland White Terrier, Dachshund, Spitz, and Pomeranian. The result is that when the dog breathes in sharply, it physically sucks the end of the soft palate into the entrance of the windpipe. This temporarily narrows or blocks the windpipe, and the dog makes a series of dramatic snorting or gasping sounds, as if choking. This is only a temporary crisis because when the dog swallows, the soft palate flips away from the windpipe and the dog can breathe again. If you’re unsure, give the dog food or a treat. If it takes and swallows the food, it isn’t choking.
    • Kennel Cough: Kennel cough is an infection that causes the airway to become sore, inflamed, and irritable. Even the simple act of breathing in cool air can tickle the throat and trigger coughing episodes. This cough can be dramatic and is commonly mistaken for the dog having something stuck in its throat. Again, check to see if the dog is able to swallow by offering it something to eat. If it can swallow, it is extremely unlikely the dog is choking. Do, however, contact your vet to see if he or she would recommend an examination for the kennel cough.
    • Heart Disease: An enlarged heart pressing on the airways or a heart in failure can sometimes mimic choking. The dog may breathe in a distressed manner, cough, and may even have blue-tinged gums. This condition is harder to differentiate from choking, but in general the signs are slow to develop, with the dog becoming less energetic and more lethargic for a day or two beforehand. Choking, on the other hand, is far more common in active, inquisitive dogs and comes on suddenly.

reference: https://www.wikihow.com/Save-a-Choking-Dog

How to Detect and Prevent Bloating and Torsion in Dogs

April 30, 2018 Comments Off on How to Detect and Prevent Bloating and Torsion in Dogs Helping Dogs

Bloat and Torsion (also known Gastric Volvulus or Gastric Dilatation Volvulus) is an emergency that affects dogs. GDV is lethal and will kill a dog often within a few hours. The sooner you are able to identify and detect symptoms the quicker you will be able to seek treatment from your vet, so if you see any signs of GDV, it’s very important to take your dog to the vet right away. If you’re looking to prevent bloat and torsion from occurring, try a few key strategies.

1

Identifying Bloating and Torsion

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    Look for dry-vomiting. One of the more common symptoms of bloating and torsion, when your dog’s stomach turn or twist up to 360 degrees, is an attempt to vomit with no results. This can often sound and look like a dry-heave or sound more like a deep repeated cough.[1]

    • Vomiting with no results might also produce mucus or foam. Unless your dog is vomiting up more solid food they may be bloated or distended.[2]
    • Check your dog’s mouth for other related objects or foods that might be causing a similar symptom, like grass or plastic that might be blocking their windpipe.
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    Check for excessive drooling. Excessive drooling is a sure sign that something is negatively affecting your dog. If your dog is suffering from torsion and bloating they will likely be drooling for extended periods of time. Check your dog’s mouth and gums, as well as their bed and the floor around them, for excess drool. However, keep in mind that drooling is a general reaction that your dog will have to negative stimuli, which can also include vertigo and allergies.[3]

    • Drooling, paired with other symptoms, will help you determine what your dog might be suffering from. Consult your vet for a more informed opinions on what might be causing your dog to drool excessively.
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    Look for signs of anxiety and restlessness. Many dog’s will be much less active when suffering from bloating and torsion as their stomach will make many movements uncomfortable. Dog’s suffering from bloating and distention might also be hunched or curled over by trying to physically compensate for the discomfort.[4]

    • Try calling your dog over to you if you think your dog is displaying unusual behavior. If they react in a way that is not normal, like slowly limping over or refusing to move, they may be experiencing physical discomfort.
    • Examples of signs of restlessness and anxiety are fidgeting, sighing or whimpering, constant eye movements, furrowed ears, and grimacing.[5]
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    Feel your dog’s stomach for tightness. Although this symptom is not the most pronounced or easiest to identify it is a clear sign that your dog is suffering from torsion and bloating. You should be able to tell if your dog’s stomach is tight by having them stand up and placing your hand on their abdomen, below their ribcage. Their stomach should feel soft and tapered when relaxed. If their stomach is firm, or makes a hollow sound like a drum when you pat it softly, they may be suffering from bloating or torsion.[6]
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    Consider your dog’s general personality and demeanor. Taking your dog’s personality or general disposition into account will help you gauge when and if they are suffering from discomfort. Look to see if your dog is displaying any unusual behaviors, like lethargy when they are usually playing unusual body language, to determine whether or not they might be ill.

    • Bloating, torsion, and torsion is most common with specific breeds that have large chests, like Great Danes, Saint Bernards, Setters, Dobermans, and Sheepdogs.[7]

2

Treating Bloating and Torsion

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    Call your vet immediately. Stomach bloating and torsion in dogs is fatal without treatment. Calling your vet as soon as you are able to identify and detect the symptoms of stomach bloating in your dog will help you determine whether or not your dog needs immediate medical attention. Only your vet or another trained professional will be able to accurately diagnose your dog’s condition. Be sure to give your vet an approximate arrival time so they can be ready to treat your dog immediately.[8]

    • Call your vet and describe symptoms by saying, “I think my dog is suffering from torsion, they are trying to vomit and are displaying anxious behavior” or “My dog’s stomach is very tight and they are not walking around very often.”
    • Remember, only your vet will be able to treat your dog’s bloating or torsion.
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    Ask your vet for an x-ray. Your vet should be able to give your dog an x-ray once you bring them to their office. An x-ray will help determine whether or not your dog has stomach dilation (bloating) or GDV (bloat and torsion). Bloating can often be treated with less invasive procedures whereas bloat with torsion will often require an emergency surgery.
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    Consult your vet about surgical correction. Surgical correction is often needed in cases of bloating and torsion. The immediate concerns of GDV surgery are to return your dog’s stomach to a normal position and identify any damage done to the stomach or spleen. However, depending on your dog’s condition, and how long they have been suffering from torsion, there may be limited options.[9]

    • Ask your vet when euthanasia should be considered. Your dog’s chances of survival will be poor if they have suffered from cell death or perforation of any kind.
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    Cautiously give your dog emergency first aid. This should not be done unless you are comfortable with the known causes and symptoms of bloating and torsion. The first step in treating any case of bloat and torsion is to call your vet immediately. Once your vet is notified that you are bringing your dog in for treatment, consult first aid guides detailing specific actions that can be taken, like Kifka.[10]

    • Remember that first aid is first aid and not treatment.

3

Preventing Bloating and Torsion

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    Ask your vet about preventative gastropexy. Preventative gastropexy is a surgical procedure that can be performed on dogs that are prone to bloating and torsion. There are a few different procedures when performing gastropexy, but most result in adhering part of the dog’s stomach to their torso to prevent torsion.Consult your vet to see which gastropexy options are available and which might be most effective for your dog.[11]
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    Feed your dog smaller meals throughout the day. Feeding your dog only one large meal a day can cause bloating and torsion as your dog will likely be eating too quickly. Separate your dog’s daily food allotment into 2 to 3 smaller meals throughout the day in order to promote healthy eating and digestion. Align your dog’s eating schedule with your own, give them food before you begin your day in the morning and food again in the evening.[12]

    • Try using automatic dog feeders if you find that your schedule will not allow you to feed your dog multiple regular meals.
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    Add high protein wet food to your dog’s meals. Many dry foods can be too rich in carbohydrates and be over processed for dog’s digestive systems. Add high protein wet food to your dog’s meal to increase your dog’s nutrition and digestive activity so that they can naturally decrease their risk of bloat or torsion.[13]

    • Start by supplementing half of your dog’s dry food for wet food.
    • Consult your vet or local pet store about high protein wet foods. Ask questions like, “Which wet foods do you recommend for my dog?” or “Is there a particular food or brand that helps combat bloating and torsion?”
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    Avoid exercise after meals. Exercising your dog after they have just eaten increases their risk of bloating or torsion as their stomach will be full, heavy, and easier to twist. Give your dog at least 2 hours of digestion time before you take them on a walk or have high energy play. [14]

    • Try feeding your dog an hour after they have exercised to create a simple and healthy feeding routine.

Reference: https://www.wikihow.com/Detect-and-Prevent-Bloating-and-Torsion-in-Dogs

How to Apply a Gauze Muzzle to a Dog

April 30, 2018 Comments Off on How to Apply a Gauze Muzzle to a Dog Helping Dogs

Gauze muzzles are classified as homemade muzzles and should only be used in an emergency.[1] However, proper technique when tying a gauze muzzle can provide a secure temporary solution so that you can assist an injured or frightened animal. Gauze muzzles are also useful if you don’t have a muzzle handy and need one immediately. Keep in mind that it is always better to have a sturdy purchased muzzle on hand.

1

Muzzling a Dog

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    Use a gauze muzzle for emergencies. Gauze muzzles are not optimum for dogs. They are best reserved for emergencies, when there is absolutely no other option. You should also only use a homemade muzzle like a gauze muzzle temporarily.[2]

    • Other materials that can become emergency muzzles include leashes, ropes, pantyhose, and so on.
    • Avoid having to use a homemade muzzle by keeping a real muzzle in your dog’s fist aid kit.
    • You can purchase a gauze roll bandage at any pharmacy (like Walgreens), drugstore, big box store (like Walmart), or most grocery stores.
    • Check your first aid kit. Many come with a roll of gauze.
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    Cut off a long strip of gauze bandage. In an emergency, you want to create a gauze muzzle quickly. Get an idea for how much gauze you’ll need by pulling out and cutting off a strip long enough to wind several times around your dog’s head. Before cutting the gauze, wrap it around your dog’s head from under their chin to behind their ears. Then triple this length before cutting.[3]

    • The length that you cut depends on the size of your dog’s head. You will obviously need a longer strip for a bigger dog.
    • Cutting off such a long length allows you extra in case you estimated the size of your dog’s head wrong.
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    Tie off a big loop in the middle. Pull the strip of gauze out to its full length. Form a loop in the middle of the gauze strip. Tie a knot where this loop closes. You should now have a loop of gauze with long, loose ends on either side of the knot.[4]

    • Make sure the knot is a slipknot so that you can tighten the loop once it is around the dog’s nose.
    • Tie a slipknot by creating a loop and pushing a second loop through it.[5]
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    Advance toward the dog so they can’t see you. You want to approach the dog with the loop open in your hands. In order to place the loop securely over your dog’s snout, make sure you approach from the back or the side. This way they can’t see you coming and will be less startled.
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    Consider training your dog to wear a muzzle. Although you should restrict use of a gauze muzzle to emergencies, you might want to train your dog to use a muzzle. If a dog is trained, they will be less likely to become aggressive when you apply a gauze muzzle.[6]

    • Use treats and gradual exposure techniques to train a dog to take a muzzle.
    • For example, you could smear the interior of a muzzle with a treat like peanut butter or wet dog food.
    • Play with the dog while they wear the muzzle so that they associate the muzzle with positive things.
    • Take short walks with the muzzle.
    • Do this muzzle training whenever you would normally walk your dog, such as every afternoon.
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    Slide the loop over the nose. Before your dog has a chance to see what you are holding, slide the loop over their nose. Keep the center of the loop over the end of the dog’s nose for the best fit.[7]

    • Slid the loop all the way back to the jaw line, where the snout meets the face.
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    Tighten the loop. As soon as the loop is around the dog’s nose, tighten the loop firmly so that your dog cannot open his mouth. Bring the loose pieces of fabric around the snout and tie another loose knot on the bottom of the snout.[8]
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    Tie the bandage behind the neck. Once the loop is in place, pull the loose ends of the gauze behind the dog’s head. Cross one end over the other. Then tie the two ends in a bow that is easy to undo.[9]

    • Since gauze muzzles are used only in emergencies, being able to remove them quickly is important.

2

Muzzling a Pug-Nosed Dog

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    Tie a loop in a long piece of gauze. Just as you would for a dog with a long snout, cut off a long strip of gauze bandage. Make sure it is long enough to wind several times around your dog’s head. Then form a loop in the middle and tie a slipknot for it.[10]
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    Place the knot under the chin. For pug-nosed dogs, you must be sure to place the loop’s slipknot under their chin. Come up on the dog from behind or the side, then slip it under their nose. Keep the knot turned toward the floor so that it easily slides under the dog’s chin.[11]

    • For longer snouts, the knot goes behind the ears.
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    Tie loose ends behind the ears. Once the loop is on the dog’s nose, slide it back toward the jawline. Then pull the slipknot tight enough to keep the dog’s mouth shut. Quickly pull the loose ends back and tie them behind the ears.[12]

    • Use a slipknot or bow so that the muzzle can be removed quickly.
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    Pull a loose end back through the nose loop. For pug-nosed dogs, it is important to take one loose end and feed it back through the gauze tied around the dog’s snout. Pull this loose end across your dog’s forehead. Then slide it under the tightened loop at the top, right by the nose.[13]

    • Feeding an end back through the loop keeps the muzzle from slipping off.
    • Keeping the muzzle on can be challenging on dogs with pug noses, and keeping it on is important.

3

Dealing with a Resistant Dog

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    Protect yourself from a violent dog. If you need a muzzle a dog who is being violent, such as because they are afraid or in pain, approach with a very calm demeanor. Avoid making eye contact with the dog. Also make yourself appear bigger, such as holding an umbrella or sweater out in front of your body. Once the dog senses that you are not afraid and are not a threat, he may back down.[14]

    • As soon as the dog backs down from its aggressive stance, slip on the muzzle and make it tight.
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    Be strong if a dog resists. Your dog may resist or lunge while you put the muzzle on, which is likely if the dog is hurt or afraid. Bring someone along to help you keep the dog still while putting on the muzzle. Also consider wearing thick gloves and clothing to prevent the dog being able to bite you. Although you can restrain the dog physically, try instead to calm it down so that you can put the muzzle on without issue.
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    Tie on a muzzle when a dog is likely to bite. A gauze muzzle is useful when your dog becomes unexpectedly aggressive. If you see evidence that your dog wants to bite another animal, quickly restrain them by tying on a gauze muzzle.[15]

    • Signs that your dog is about to bite include tense posture, a flicking tongue, visible whites in the eyes, and so on.[16]
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    Muzzle a frightened or injured dog. When a dog becomes frightened or injured, getting them muzzled quickly is a priority. Dogs tend to bite when they are in extreme fear or pain. A quickly tied gauze muzzle will prevent injury while you try to help the dog.[17]

    • A gauze muzzle can be especially helpful in a rescue situation.
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    Contain a dog for an exam. If your dog needs to be quickly examined, such as after a rescue, a gauze muzzle provides a fast way to protect yourself from getting bitten. You can also use a gauze muzzle to quickly groom a dog.[18]

    • You might want to groom a dog right after it has been rescued. A dog might be covered in mud, brambles, or other debris from traveling.

Reference: https://www.wikihow.com/Apply-a-Gauze-Muzzle-to-a-Dog

How to Recognize a Stroke in Dogs

April 30, 2018 Comments Off on How to Recognize a Stroke in Dogs Helping Dogs

Knowing the risks, signs, and symptoms of a stroke means that you can provide your dog with proper care and make it comfortable if you suspect a stroke. Although all dogs can potentially suffer from a stroke, older dogs, dogs that are overweight, or dogs that have certain health problems are more likely to experience a stroke. If you know what to look for and what to do, it can help you to keep calm and it allows you to seek veterinary advice more quickly. While it is important to comfort a dog during what is probably an extremely frightening experience, knowing how to identify and treat a stroke can potentially even save your dog’s life.

1

Knowing the Signs of a Stroke

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    Identify the common symptoms of a stroke. The symptoms of a stroke are varied, from sudden loss of balance to altered consciousness. Review the signs of a stroke and keep an eye on a dog you suspect is having a stroke. You want to be able to identity any of the key symptoms.

    • Extreme weakness: There may be a neurological weakness of the limbs. This means that the nerves are not working and therefore do not give the legs the right information about how to stand up and support the dog. Although the muscles are strong enough to support the body, they do not receive the right nerve messages and so the animal is extremely weak and unable to stand.
    • Nystagmus: Nystagmus is the technical term for when the eyes flick rapidly from side to side, as if watching a tennis match on fast forward. This is a common indicator of stroke, although it can also happen for other reasons, such as meningitis. Again, once nystagmus starts it can last for days. It also makes the pet feel nauseous, because it invokes a form of motion sickness. Because of this, the dog may vomit and lose interest in food.
    • Sudden loss of balance. Be on the look out for a dog that cannot coordinate its limbs.
    • Altered consciousness: In severe strokes some dogs may seizure or fit, whilst others may lose consciousness. This means they are unaware of what is going on around them and do not respond to their name or other stimuli.
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    Differentiate between the symptoms of a stroke and the symptoms of other conditions. A stroke is a sudden event. You should suspect a stroke if a pet that was fine and normal 5 minutes ago, is now struggling to get up. If the dog is struggling because its dizzy, such as if they have heart disease, this episode may pass within a few minutes, once the dog has caught its breath be able to rise and walk around. A dog that has had a stroke, however, will remain disorientated for hours or even days.

    • Please note, this symptom also overlaps with inflammation in the balance mechanism in the inner ear.
    • In addition, there is a sliding scale of weakness, depending on the severity of the stroke. Sometimes if it is only mild the dog can stand and walk around slowly as if drunk, other times the dog is incapacitated, lies on their side and is barely conscious.
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    Understand how the length of stroke symptoms is central to a diagnosis of a stroke. To be classified as a stroke, technically the symptoms must persist for longer than 24 hours. If the symptoms resolve before this, and yet there is a strong suspicions of a blockage in the brain, it is instead known as a transient ischaemic attack (TIA) . TIAs are a strong warning sign that a full blown stroke is on the way, and so always seek veterinary attention so any underlying causes can be corrected to reduce this risk.
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    Be aware that conditions other than a stroke can cause similar symptoms to those of a stroke. Because these conditions are vastly different, the treatment will differ. However, do not worry too much about labelling your dog’s condition but instead seek urgent help.
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    Contact your veterinarian if you suspect a stroke. There are several symptoms that can point towards your pet having had a stroke. However, do not be too concerned about reaching a specific diagnosis at home, because calling the symptoms a stroke is just a label. What is important is that if you see one or some of these signs you should get urgent veterinary attention for your pet.[1]

2

Caring For a Dog You Suspect Has Had a Stroke

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    Keep calm. If you believe your dog has had a stroke, the first thing to do is keep calm. Your dog will need your help in order to survive, so keep your wits about you and focus on helping your pup.
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    Make sure your dog is comfortable. Put the dog in a quiet, warm environment. Make him or her as comfortable as possible by placing it on a padded bed and removing nearby furniture it could hurt itself on.

    • If your dog is unable to stand, turn it to lie on the opposite side of its body every half an hour to reduce the risk of pneumonia because of blood pooling in one side of his lungs.
    • Put water near your dog so it can drink without getting up. If it doesn’t want to drink for a long time, wipe its gums with a wet cloth to give it some moisture.
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    Phone the veterinarian and seek an urgent care appointment. If this emergency happens on a weekend or late at night, call your vets emergency line. If you get not response, you may need to find an emergency veterinary clinic to take your dog to.

    • Make note of your dog’s symptoms so you can relay them to the veterinarian over the phone. It’s important to know the strength and length of symptoms, so that you can properly communicate the severity of your dog’s condition to the vet.
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    Understand what your veterinarian will do for your dog. The priorities for treatment of a dog that has had a stroke include minimizing swelling to the brain and maximizing oxygen to the brain.[2] This will be done with medication and medical care. In addition, your veterinary office will be able to take care of secondary concerns, such as keeping your dog hydrated and comfortable.

3

Assessing Whether Your Dog is at Risk of Stroke

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    Understand the basics aspects of a stroke. A stroke is caused by an interruption to the blood flow to part of the brain. It is a hallmark of strokes that they have a sudden onset, because of the sudden nature of a blood clot switching off the blood supply to part of the brain. The exact symptoms depend on which precise area of the brain is affected, but there are several symptoms held in common, no matter where the blood clot lodges.[3]

    • A stroke is almost always caused by a blood clot which lodges and causes obstruction in the blood vessel, but it is also possible that it’s caused by a plug of fat that has dislodged and circulated to the brain. A stroke can even be caused by a plug of bacteria in the brain.
    • For many years there was dispute amongst veterinarians about whether animals had strokes or not. But this argument has now been largely won by the “yes they do happen” camp, because sophisticated imaging techniques, such as MRI scans, have produced pictures of the blockages in the brain.[4]
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    Figure out if your dog is in an “at risk” category for stroke. Those dogs most at risk are often older, and have pre-existing health condition such as heart disease, high blood pressure, or Cushing’s disease. Some veterinarians anecdotally report that dogs with underactive thyroid glands are at increased risk of stroke, but the data to prove this is lacking.
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    Think about other risk factors. Other problems that can predispose a dog to a stroke include heartworm, where larvae can break off and circulate to the brain to cause a blockage. Also at risks are dogs with a history of clotting problems, with kidney disease, a high fever, or cancer.[5]

    • The lowest risk group for stroke are young, fit dogs with no health problems that are regularly treated against heartworm.
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    Know that dogs differ from people. Be aware that a stroke in a dog has a different presentation to in people. Whereas a person may be affected down one side of their body and their speech may be affected, this is not the case with dogs. They present in the ways described above.[6]

reference: https://www.wikihow.com/Recognize-a-Stroke-in-Dogs

How to Care for a Dog After It Has Just Vomited

April 30, 2018 Comments Off on How to Care for a Dog After It Has Just Vomited Helping Dogs

It’s not unusual for dogs to vomit occasionally for any number of minor to significant reasons. For example, your dog may love to scavenge and vomit as a way of getting rid of spoilt food from his stomach. However, if your dog consistently vomits or regurgitates, it could be a sign of a serious condition, including infection, pancreatitis, toxin exposure, cancer or a gastrointestinal obstruction.[1] Care for your dog if he’s vomited and know when to get proper medical attention.

Part1

Taking Care of Immediate Needs

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    Check for shock. Your dog may need immediate medical treatment by the vet if he shows signs of shock. Signs include:[2][3]

    • Pale skin and gums
    • Abnormal behavior
    • Collapse
    • Weakness
    • Difficulty getting up and walking
    • Reluctance when lifting his head
    • Depressed demeanor
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    Keep your dog warm and comfortable. After your dog has vomited, reassure him that he’s done nothing wrong. Try to get him to lie down and rest. If he seems cool or is shivering, put a blanket over him and give him plenty of attention and support.[4]

    • Let your dog take it easy. Help him get comfortable on the floor, so that he doesn’t have to try getting up and walking around.[5]
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    Clean your dog’s soiled fur with a warm, wet washcloth. Dried vomit can cause your dog’s hair to get matted, so it is a good idea to clean him up. Only do this once your dog has rested for a bit and stop cleaning if your dog becomes stressed by the bath.

    • You may want to place puppy pads or old towels under his chin and around him, so that if he’s sick again he doesn’t soil the carpet. Some dogs recognize puppy pads as appropriate places to toilet. This may relieve his anxiety about being unclean if knows he has somewhere to vomit.
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    Watch for signs that your dog may vomit again. Keep a close eye on your dog after he has vomited since repeated vomiting needs medical attention. Signs that he may vomit again include retching, or a noise that sounds like he has something stuck in his throat; a stiff or rigid stance; and wandering around aimlessly.[6]

Part2

Recognizing Emergency Situations

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    Get immediate treatment for bloat. If your dog vomits, but nothing comes up your dog may have a serious and life-threatening condition called bloat. Symptoms include repeated attempts to vomit without actually producing vomit and drooling strings of saliva (because he can’t swallow it).[7]

    • Your dog needs emergency medical treatment for bloat, since this serious condition can kill within hours if it’s not treated.
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    Watch for dehydration. Once your dog vomits, he may feel nauseous which prevents him from wanting to drink. This, along with vomiting up fluid, can cause dehydration if the amount of fluid he loses is greater than the amount of fluid he’s taking in.[8] If your dog is showing early signs of dehydration, give him an electrolyte drink mixed with water every few hours for a day. If the dehydration doesn’t improve, get medical attention.[9] Early signs of dehydration include:

    • Excessive panting
    • Dry mouth, gums, or nose
    • Visible lethargy (fatigue)
    • Dry or sunken eyes
    • Lack of skin elasticity (the skin won’t fall back into place immediately if you pinch a little and release it)
    • Weakness in the hind end (a later stage of dehydration)
    • Unsteadiness when walking (a later stage of dehydration)
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    Know when to contact the vet. If the vomiting is simple and straightforward, such as after scavenging garbage, then most times you can nurse the dog better at home by offering fluids, and withholding food. However, you should always watch for signs that your dog needs immediate medical attention. These include:[10]

    • Retching with nothing coming up
    • Vomiting once or twice with your dog still seeming dull and depressed
    • Vomiting for more than 4 hours or not being able to keep water down
    • Vomiting blood which could indicate a serious ulcer in the stomach wall

Part3

Determining and Eliminating the Cause of Vomiting

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    Distinguish between vomiting and regurgitation to determine proper treatment.Dogs can often regurgitate, raise undigested food with no abdominal effort, without showing signs of other illnesses.[11] If your dog regurgitates, he may just need his food to be raised off the floor so that gravity helps pass the food down into his stomach. However, if your dog forcefully vomits (acute vomiting) the contents of his stomach, this means his muscles are contracting. You’ll notice your dog hunched up and the vomit will probably smell foul.[12]

    • Regurgitation is usually a sign of esophageal issues or other problems in the early stages of the digestive process. For example, often dogs eat too much too quickly. In this case, the food your dog expels will usually be undigested and tubular in shape.[13]
    • If your dog regularly regurgitates food, he may have a long term medical condition so put his food up on a chair, but also let your vet assess him.[14]
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    Consider the causes of vomiting. Think about your dog’s recent diet, behaviour, emotions, and environmental conditions to determine what might be causing your dog’s vomiting. For example, think about recent walks and whether your dog may have scavenged a carcass or eaten discarded food. Vomiting can be a common symptom of “garbage gut” where your dog eats things that aren’t healthy which causes his body to force out the spoilt food. However, if he keeps vomiting, there may be a more serious cause including:[15][16]

    • Bacterial infections in the gastrointestinal tract
    • Intestinal parasites
    • Severe constipation
    • Acute kidney failure
    • Acute liver failure
    • Colitis
    • Parvovirus
    • Gall bladder inflammation
    • Pancreatitis
    • Ingestion of a poisonous substance
    • Heatstroke
    • An infected uterus
    • A reaction to medicine
    • Cancer
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    Assess whether the vomiting was a one-off or occurred multiple times. If your dog vomits once, eats normally and has normal bowel movements, the vomiting was probably an isolated incident. If he vomits more than once throughout the day or if it continues beyond one day, take him to the vet immediately.[17]

    • Continued and repetitive vomiting should be investigated more fully by a vet. Your vet should be able to diagnose the condition by conducting a range of tests, including X-rays, bloodwork, fecal analysis, urinalysis, ultrasound imaging, and/or a barium study.[18]
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    Examine the vomit to determine a cause of vomiting. Look at the vomit for foreign objects like wrappers, pieces of a plastic bag, bone fragments (you should not give your dog real bones as this are often implicated in vomiting episodes), etc. [19] If you see blood in the vomit, take your dog to the vet immediately since severe blood loss can happen quickly and be fatal.

    • If there are no foreign objects, look at the shape and consistency of the vomit. Is it undigested food or is it more liquid in form? Write down what you observe so you will be able to tell your vet if the vomiting continues. It may help your vet diagnose your dog if you can show a photo or sample of the vomit.[20] A photo can also let the vet see the volume of vomitus which may influence treatment.

Part4

Feeding After Vomiting

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    Avoid feeding your dog for 12 hours. Vomiting can irritate your dog’s stomach lining, which can lead to more vomiting if he eats anything soon after vomiting. His stomach needs time to rest, and this will help you determine if his vomiting was food-related.[21] Resist the urge to feed him even if he acts hungry. This fasting will also give your dog a chance to eliminate anything that might have caused the vomiting.[22]

    • A puppy or young dog should not fast for more than 12 hours.
    • If your dog has an underlying medical condition (especially diabetes), speak with your veterinarian before withholding any meals.
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    Give your dog water. Offer him 1 teaspoon of water for every pound of his weight every hour. Continue giving water this way throughout the day and night until your dog can drink normally. Drinking too much water after vomiting can cause your dog to vomit again, while not drinking any water can cause dehydration.[23] Call the vet if your dog is unable to keep down even this small amount of water.

    • For example, if your dog weighs 12 pounds, he would get 12 teaspoons (¼ cup) of water every hour throughout the day and night.
    • Consider getting pedialyte or lectade from a pharmacy or the vet. Follow the packaged instructions to reconstitute this electrolyte powder with boiled water. It’s gentler on the stomach and can help reverse dehydration. Offer it in the same quantities that you would water. Be aware that not all dogs like the taste and refuse to drink it.
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    Keep your dog hydrated if he won’t drink. To prevent dehydration, you must keep your dog hydrated. Consider wiping your dog’s gums with a washcloth soaked in water. This helps freshen his mouth at a time when he feels too nauseous to drink. Or, offer ice cubes for your dog to lick so he at least gets small amounts of water and keeps his mouth moist.[24] You can also try giving him certain teas like lukewarm ginger, chamomile or mint which can help calm his stomach and digestive tract. As with water, you only want to give him a few tablespoons at a time.

    • If he won’t drink tea, try freezing it in ice cube trays and then breaking it apart into chips. He may take it this way.[25]
    • Keep trying to offer your dog a variety of fluids until you find one that he’ll take.
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    Reintroduce food. After 12 hours, begin introducing 2 to 3 teaspoons of foods that are low in fat and easy to digest. Lean meats like skinless chicken and hamburger will provide needed protein, while boiled potatoes, low-fat cottage cheese and well-cooked rice will give him the carbohydrates he needs. Create a mixture of 1 part lean meat to 5 parts carbohydrate. Make sure that these foods are well-cooked, drained of fat, and unseasoned which will make it easier to digest than regular dog food.[26]

    • If your dog does not vomit, give him a little more food every hour or two.[27][28] But, if he begins to vomit again, take him to the vet for examination.
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    Integrate dog food slowly. After the first day of feeding your dog these bland foods, you can start to mix just a little bit of his regular dog food with the food you’ve been making him for one meal. For example, start with a 50/50 mix for one meal, then 3/4 dog food and 1/4 of the bland diet for one meal. Then return to feeding him normally unless he begins vomiting again.[29][30] Always follow the vet’s recommendations and return for any follow-up exams.

    • Stop feeding your dog if he begins vomiting again and take him to the vet. It’s a good idea to keep a log of what your dog eats and drinks, the amounts he consumes, and his behavior. This will be useful information for the vet.
    • Don’t experiment with food or medications since this could make your dog’s vomiting worse.[31]

    reference: https://www.wikihow.com/Care-for-a-Dog-After-It-Has-Just-Vomited

How to Check a Dog for a Fever

April 30, 2018 Comments Off on How to Check a Dog for a Fever Helping Dogs

Unfortunately, your beloved canine companion cannot tell you in words when he or she is feeling ill. Instead, your dog can give you hints that it is not feeling well through changes in its behavior, including being less active or not as interested in food. However, finding out if your dog has a fever is a good way to figure out if it is actually sick. Documenting changes in body temperature could help a veterinarian to identify the cause of the illness in your dog and therefore help with treatment options. As part of your “doggy” first aid kit, you should have a dedicated doggy thermometer that you can use to find out if your dog has a fever.

1

Using a Rectal Thermometer

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    Prepare the thermometer. Lubricate the tip with petroleum jelly or water based lubricant such as “KY jelly.”[1] Lubricating the thermometer will make the experience slightly less uncomfortable for your dog.

    • If you have a digital thermometer, turn it on and make sure that it is in working order before inserting it into the rectum.
    • Most digital thermometers can read in Fahrenheit or Celsius. Check your thermometer’s directions to figure out how to change the type of reading.
    • Mercury thermometers should be shaken down to the end closest to the mercury tip before inserting to ensure the most accurate reading. The mercury thermometer may have both Fahrenheit and Celsius, you will have to check your particular instrument.
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    Have another individual restrain the dog’s body. Have the other person give the dog a “hug” by placing his or her left arm under the neck of the dog and using his or her left hand to hold the side of the dog’s face against the shoulder. Your helper will then place his or her right arm under the belly of the dog just in front of the back legs to keep the dog standing.

    • It is not uncommon for a dog to want to sit down when they feel a rectal thermometer inserted. If your dog is comfortable lying down and stays there for the temperature taking, then you can leave them lying down.
    • Sitting is not the preferred position because the rectum will not be easily accessible.[2]
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    Be cautious. If you have any indication that the dog may bite or you may injure the dog while trying to restrain your pet, stop! It is better to wait and take your dog to its veterinarian to get its temperature taken than to risk injury to the dog or yourself.
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    Lift the dog’s tail to expose the rectum. Lift from the base of the tail, rather than the tip. This will give you more control over the animals movement and prevent the dog’s tail from wagging.

    • It may be helpful to have your helper hold the dog’s tail up for you.
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    Insert the thermometer into the dog’s rectum about 1 inch (2.54 cm). Be careful not to insert the thermometer too deep, or too shallow, as this will affect the readings.[3] Try to gently insert along the side of the rectum, particularly if there is feces present.

    • The anus is the opening into the rectum, which is a long tube that collects feces. The anus is a muscular sphincter that relaxes and opens to allow feces to leave the rectum. The sphincter can shut very tightly if the dog is painful or afraid. Avoid forcing the thermometer through the anus, but do aim into the middle of the pucker where you will find the least resistance for your well-lubricated thermometer.
    • Remember to keep your hand steady and the thermometer straight.
    • Be deliberate in your approach.
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    Leave the thermometer inserted for the right amount of time. If you are using a digital thermometer, keep it in until it beeps. If you are using a mercury thermometer, leave in place for approximately two-minutes.[4]
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    Remove the thermometer gently. This has probably been a very intrusive and stressful experience for your dog, so be sure to use a soft touch. Clean the thermometer off after use – rubbing alcohol works well.[5]

    • Remember, this is the doggy thermometer for rectal use. It should not get mixed up with thermometers you use for humans.

2

Using an Ear Thermometer

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    Lift the canine’s ear and gently brush aside any hair that may be in the way. This will allow you to have a clear view of the animals ear canal. Any hair that remains in the way may obstruct the thermometer and cause discomfort to your dog.

    • Note that while ear thermometers are less invasive to the animal they can be less accurate if used improperly.[6]
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    Look for signs of an ear infection. If your dog has an ear infection, do not use the ear thermometer, as it will likely give you an inaccurate result and be painful to the dog. Indications of an ear infection are redness, swelling, discharge with an odor, and shaking or scratching excessively at the ears.[7]
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    Position the thermometer deep into the dog’s horizontal ear canal. You may want to have another person hold the dog’s head to get enough control of the animal to do this. Be sure the thermometer is deep enough or it will not produce an accurate temperature reading. [8].

    • If you don’t have help, hold the dog’s body between your legs to keep it still. At no time should you continue with this process if your dog is trying to bite you, as you will not get an accurate reading if the dog is fighting the process.
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    Hold the thermometer in place and wait for it to beep. This indicates a reading was successfully achieved. Depending on the brand and make of the thermometer, read times will vary.
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    Remove the thermometer from the dog’s ear gently. Remember, ear thermometers go very deep into the horizontal ear canal. Some dogs may object to the ear thermometer, sometimes even more so than to the rectal option.

3

Reading The Thermometer and Assessing Your Next Course of Action

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    Check the reading on the thermometer. A normal temperature should be between 100 and 102.5 degrees Fahrenheit (37.7 and 39.4 degrees Celsius).[9] Readings above 102.5 degrees Fahrenheit (39 degrees Celsius) are considered elevated.[10]Temperatures below 100 degrees Fahrenheit (38 degrees Celsius) are considered low.[11]
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    Double check any “abnormal” readings. If the temperature is too low, the thermometer may not be inserted far enough in the ear or the rectum, or it could be inserted into feces. If the temperature is too high and the dog is excited or really resisted handling, let the dog rest for 10 minutes and recheck.
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    Contact your veterinarian immediately if your dog’s temperature is higher than 106 degrees Fahrenheit. This is very dangerous to your animal and should be considered a medical emergency.[12] If your veterinarian is not open or available, take your dog to the nearest emergency animal hospital.
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    Contact your veterinarian if your dog’s temperature is above 103 degrees Fahrenheit. This is especially important if there are other indicators of illness, such as lethargy or lack of interest in food. Make an appointment to go in that day. [13]

reference: https://www.wikihow.com/Check-a-Dog-for-a-Fever

How to Take Care of an Injured Stray Puppy

April 30, 2018 Comments Off on How to Take Care of an Injured Stray Puppy Helping Dogs

So you’ve found a stray puppy and you notice that it’s injured. You wonder what you should do next. Caring for an injured dog is a delicate process, but seeing the puppy return to good health is always worth it. Take care of an injured puppy by assessing its injuries, taking it to a vet for medical care, and then providing it with care at your home while you look for its owner.

Part1

Assessing the Puppy’s Injuries

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    Stay at a safe distance at first.[1] Before you approach a stray puppy, make sure the animal does not pose a threat to you.[2] It is best to keep a safe distance from the animal while you try to figure out how serious its injuries are and what kind of help it needs.

    • If you get too close to the puppy, it might bite you, especially if it is frightened or in a lot of pain.[3]
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    Use caution when approaching the injured puppy. If the puppy does not seem aggressive or dangerous, speak calmly and move slowly as you get close to the puppy.[4] Sudden movements might spook the animal.

    • If you have some kind of food or dog treats available to you, try to show the pup that you mean no harm to it by offering up the treats or food as a gift.[5]
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    Consider muzzling the puppy if it seems aggressive or scared. While this might not be necessary, some puppies will snap or bite if they feel scared or threatened. You can gently and carefully put a muzzle over its snout to keep it from biting you while you help it. Only try this if you feel it is necessary for you to stay safe. This only works for a long-snouted dog and won’t work for a flat-faced breed like a pug.

    • Be sure that the puppy is not vomiting before trying to muzzle it; if it vomits with a muzzle on it could choke.
    • You can use a strip of towel, gauze, a knee high sock, or panty hose to gently tie the dog’s muzzle shut.[6]
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    Determine how badly the puppy is injured. Some injuries require immediate emergency care, and other injuries are less severe and you can care for them yourself. While there may be internal injuries that you can’t see, you can try to evaluate the situation and determine what you should do next based on how the puppy looks and acts.

    • If you see lots of blood, or if the puppy is actively losing lots of blood, it might be an emergency situation. A puppy that simply has a skin condition such as mange will still need medical care, but it may not be an emergency.
    • A puppy that is easily moving around is less severely injured than if it is lying on the ground whimpering. Try to figure out if the animal can or should walk, or if it needs to be carried.
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    Administer first aid if you can. If there is a broken bone or an open wound and you have a first aid kit, consider trying to stabilize the injury with a homemade splint, gauze pads or wrappings until you can get to the vet.[7] If you don’t have a first aid kit, you can use your own clean shirt, a towel, a blanket, or anything else that is clean and handy.

    • Check out this helpful wikiHow article for more information on splinting a dog’s leg.
    • Use a clean rag or cloth to apply pressure to any bleeding, open wound. This will help to stop the bleeding until you can get help from a vet.
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    Move the puppy into your car. If the dog can walk, lead it to your car and place it into the back seat. If the dog’s injuries are too severe, you will need to pick up the dog. In this case, try to wrap the puppy in a towel, blanket, or shirt before you pick it up and be sure to keep your face away from its mouth to protect you from bites. Move quickly and carefully, and try not to move the dog too much because you could make its injuries worse.[8]

    • The dog might be frightened while you move it, so speak in a calm, soothing voice to reassure it.
    • If it’s a small puppy, consider placing it in a cardboard box or pet carrier. This can help keep it safe while you drive. Otherwise, ask someone to come with you and have them hold the puppy wrapped in a towel or blanket.
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    Call the emergency veterinary clinic. This will allow you to speak to a professional about the dog’s injuries and to get advice on how to get the puppy to the clinic for treatment. This will also ensure that the clinic is ready for you when you arrive with the injured puppy.[9]

    • Try to describe the dog’s size in pounds, approximate age if you can guess, and what you think its injuries might be. For instance, the puppy may have been hit by a car, attacked by a bigger dog, or may seem to have mange or a severe case of flea or tick infestation.
  8. 8

    Find someone else who can help if you can’t take the puppy to the vet. If you cannot afford to take the injured puppy to the vet, try calling your local animal control or animal welfare department. These groups can usually help, or direct you to other groups who can. You can call them directly, or call your local police department’s non-emergency number for more information.

    • This is usually easiest during business hours on weekdays, but don’t give up if you can’t get ahold of someone. If you live in a major city, search online for rescue groups. If the puppy looks to be a particular breed (or a mix containing a particular breed), search online for breed-specific rescue groups in your city or state (for instance, the Boxer Rescue of Oklahoma).
    • You can also try using Facebook or other social media outlets to find help for the injured puppy. Many cities have pet lost and found groups or animal rescue groups, and members are often willing to help rescue injured dogs or even pitch in for veterinary bills. Search Facebook for “dog rescue” and the name of your city. If you have a big social network, share a picture of the puppy and a plea for help, and ask your friends to share your post.

Part2

Getting Medical Attention for the Puppy

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    Take the injured puppy to an emergency veterinary clinic. You should be aware that when you take the puppy to the clinic, you will have to pay for its treatment.[10] If the dog has extensive injuries, the bill might be quite high. However, if the dog has moderate to severe injuries, veterinary aid is a necessary part of caring for the dog.
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    Tell the emergency vet that this dog is a stray. Tell the vet that you do not know the puppy’s age or medical history, how long it has been a stray, the last time it ate or drank, or the last time it received any care for its injuries. This will let the vet know that they need to make a complete examination of the dog for its overall health and wellbeing, in addition to caring for the puppy’s injuries. In addition to assessing the pup’s injuries, the vet will probably test for:[11]

    • Parvovirus
    • Ringworm fungus
    • Bacterial Dermatitis
    • Mange
    • Internal parasites, such as worms
    • Ticks and fleas
    • Ear mites
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    Consider signing over your rights to the puppy in exchange for free service.Some veterinary clinics will provide free services to stray animals, but in order to receive these services, you are expected to give up all rights and knowledge of the animal you’ve found.[12] This means that you cannot wait with the animal while it is being treated, or call the veterinary office for updates.

    • If you do not have the funds to care for the dog, or if you are not attached to the pup, this might be a good option if it is available to you.
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    Let the vet do their job. In an event where you’re seeing an injured animal in pain, it is easy to forget that the vet is specially trained to handle these situations. The vet does not need your questions, advice, or help, and offering these things will only slow the vet down and make it take longer for the dog to receive necessary treatment.

    • In the event of serious injury, the vet might suggest euthanasia.[13] Be sure to listen to what they have to say, ask for alternative treatment plans, and consider the level of discomfort the dog is experiencing and it’s likelihood of recovery.[14]When in doubt trust your vet’s recommendations.

Part3

Taking Care of the Puppy at Your Home

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    Treat any minor wounds or skin abrasions. The vet may recommend applying a certain medicated ointment or administering oral medications depending on the puppy’s injury. Be sure to follow any directions that the vet gives, and don’t miss any doses.

    • Some medications like antibiotics or skin creams have to be administered even after the symptoms of illness or injury have passed. Be sure to use the full course of medication, and don’t skip any doses.
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    Give the puppy a warm bath, if it is safe to do so. If you are going to try to nurse the puppy back to health, you want to be sure it is clean before bringing it into your home.

    • You can’t use a flea or tick shampoo on a puppy younger than 12 weeks or so, but some veterinarians recommend using liquid dish soap such as blue Dawn to remove dirt and grease from the puppy’s fur. If the puppy has ticks, pull them off at the head using a pair of tweezers and flush them down the toilet or smash them before discarding.
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    Give the puppy somewhere warm to sleep. Puppies that are six weeks or less need lots of warmth, since they are used to cuddling up with their mother and littermates.

    • A pet crate with a few towels or baby blankets inside will serve as a warm place for him or her to get some rest while recovering from their injuries.
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    Give the puppy plenty of food and water as it recovers. Puppies’ diets vary based on their age, so it is important to ask the vet for an estimate on how old the puppy might be and what the vet recommends for it to eat.

    • A very young puppy will need to be bottle fed using a special puppy formula, but puppies can eat dry puppy food starting at around five weeks of age. You can get the proper food at your local pet store.
    • Ask the vet if he or she recommends a special diet while the puppy recovers. Sometimes a critically ill or injured dog will need a critical care diet, which is easier to digest and more calorie-dense for a dog who has a lower appetite due to illness.[15]
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    Feed your puppy according to its age and size. For example, a seven week old, seven pound puppy will need to eat about half a cup of dry puppy food three times a day.

    • Always have a bowl of clean, cool water available for your puppy.

Part4

Trying to Find the Owner

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    Look for a microchip.[16] After the puppy has been treated for its injuries, have the vet scan it for a microchip to see if it has an owner. It is possible that the puppy managed to escape from its home and that its owner is looking for it.

    • If the dog does have a microchip, make sure that you contact the owner. Sometimes the vet will offer to board the puppy until its owner can pick it up.
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    Take the dog to a trusted animal shelter. If the puppy has no tags, nor a microchip, and you are unable to keep it, take it to a local animal shelter. Taking a stray animal to the shelter is still the quickest way to reunite a lost pet with its owner.[17]
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    Post fliers of the puppy. If you choose to keep the puppy while you search for its owner, post fliers of the dog along with your contact information in heavily trafficked areas of your town. These fliers might help to reunite the owner with the puppy. Here are some places you might post fliers:[18]

    • Grocery Stores
    • Veterinarian Offices
    • Humane Society
    • Local Animal Shelters
    • Telephone poles at busy intersections
    • College Campuses
    • Social media sites, like Facebook or Nextdoor
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    Verify the owner. If someone contacts you stating that they are the owner of the puppy, ask questions to make sure this is true. You might even ask for proof of ownership, such as pictures of the pup, the dog’s ID tags, vet records, or an adoption contract.[19] You should also offer to personally deliver the puppy to the owner’s home so that you can make sure that the pup is well cared for and lives in a loving home.
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    Adopt the pup. If you are unable to locate the owner of the puppy, you may choose to adopt the dog. In order to adopt the puppy as your own, you need to check the laws for dog ownership in your city or state.[20] [Image:Take Care of an Injured Stray Puppy Step 8.jpg|center]]

    • In some areas, you will need to contact the animal control agency or the humane society to report finding the animal, prove that you’ve made a reasonable attempt to find the owner of the dog, and demonstrate that you want to adopt the puppy.
    • You will need to get the puppy vaccinated, licensed, and microchipped. You should also get a collar with ID tags for the puppy.[21][

Reference: https://www.wikihow.com/Take-Care-of-an-Injured-Stray-Puppy

How to Determine if a Dog Is Dehydrated

April 30, 2018 Comments Off on How to Determine if a Dog Is Dehydrated Helping Dogs

A dog will become dehydrated if it loses more fluid than it drinks. For example, a dog with an upset stomach that loses fluid through diarrhea and/or vomiting it is at risk of become dehydrated very quickly. Dogs can become dehydrated for many other reasons as well. Not having access to water on a hot day, for example, can quickly lead to dehydration.[1]Recognizing dehydration is the first step in either correcting the problem yourself, by making sure the dog has enough to drink, or seeking veterinary help if needed.

 

Part1

Checking for Signs of Dehydration

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    Pay attention to your dog’s behavior. A dehydrated dog with the energy to do so will typically seek water to drink. If your dog is dehydrated, you may notice unusual behavior, such as restlessness or pacing, as if looking for water.[2]

    • Your dog may repeatedly lick its lips and/or have an anxious facial expression if it is unable to find enough water.[3]
    • Some dehydrated dogs will also lie with their nose resting against their water bowl.[4]
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    Check the dog’s scruff. The classic dehydration test that you’ve probably seen the vet do at the animal clinic is lifting the dog’s scruff. What this test actually measures is the skin’s elastic recoil, which decreases with dehydration.[5] To do this test yourself, take the following steps:

    • Locate the dog’s scruff. This is the loose skin over the dog’s shoulders or at the back of its neck.
    • Elevate the scruff. Grasp the skin and gently raise it two to three inches above the dog’s back in a vertical direction.
    • Release the scruff and observe. Fully hydrated skin springs back instantaneously. When dehydration is present, the skin is less elastic, which means it will not fall back as quickly.
    • If the skin takes more than two seconds to return to normal, the dog is dehydrated.[6]
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    Check the dog’s gums. Gums are a good indicator of early dehydration. Normal gums are moist and shiny, much like our own. Dehydrated animals often have dry or tacky feeling gums, because they produce less saliva.[7]

    • Be aware that anxious or frightened animals may also have dry gums. Make sure your dog is relaxed when you check the gums or you can be misled.[8]
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    Check your dog’s urine. If a dog does not take in enough water, its body will automatically take steps to preserve fluid. In this situation, it either will not urinate because its bladder is empty, or the urine it produces will be very concentrated. Concentrated urine is a deep yellow color.[9]

    • This occurs because the dog’s kidneys are working hard to recycle water in the body and hold onto it.[10]
    • Take note if your dog seems be urinating less than usual or if its urine is an unusual color.
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    See a veterinarian. If your dog seems healthy and there is a simple explanation for your dog’s condition, such as an empty water bowl, give the dog water and watch for signs of improvement. If however, the dog is dehydrated and seems sick, or if providing water doesn’t help, contact your veterinarian.[11]

    • Some dehydrated animals need to receive fluids through an IV in order to protect their organ functions while they rehydrate.[12]

Part2

Recognizing the Risk Factors for Dehydration

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    Keep an eye on the water supply. There are many circumstances that can cause a dog to become dehydrated, but the most obvious and easy to control is your dog’s access to water.

    • If the dog drinks all of its water, or its water bowl gets knocked over and it is left without a refill for a long period of time, this can result in dehydration. Make sure your dog has ample water, especially on hot days.[13]
    • Dehydration can occur quickly, sometimes within an hour or so depending on the temperature.[14]
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    Make sure the dog drinks regularly. Even if your dog has access to water, it will become dehydrated if it doesn’t drink it often enough. Keep an eye on your dog to make sure it visits the water bowl frequently.

    • For example, an older dog that suffers from arthritis and is too sore to get up and drink when it is thirsty is at risk of becoming dehydrated.[15]
    • The problem is made worse if the dog has other health problems such as diabetes or renal disease, because its body will tend to produce a lot of urine. A dog with these problems will lose fluid at a faster rate than a healthy animal. This form of dehydration is chronic, which means it develops slowly over several days and is likely to reoccur.[16]
    • Likewise, if a dog is ill and stops eating and drinking due to a lack of appetite, it is at risk of dehydration.
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    Beware of diarrhea. Watery feces contains a lot of fluid, which means more rapid loss of water, and thus an increased risk of dehydration.[17]

    • If the dog is drinking enough, the risk of dehydration is reduced. A dog without access to water or with no desire to drink, however, can become dehydrated very quickly if suffering from diarrhea.[18]
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    Watch for vomiting. Vomiting can be a serious problem because the dog is unable to retain any water it drinks.[19]

    • Closely watch a dog that is vomiting, and contact the veterinarian if you suspect he is dehydrated or if the condition occurs often.

    Reference: https://www.wikihow.com/Determine-if-a-Dog-Is-Dehydrated

How to Care for a Dog With Stitches

April 30, 2018 Comments Off on How to Care for a Dog With Stitches Helping Dogs

When a dog is injured or has surgery, they often leave the veterinarian’s office with stitches. During this time, it is important to take care of his wound so he can heal properly. A large part of ensuring a smooth recovery is knowing what the dog is and isn’t allowed to do and identifying any signs that things aren’t quite right so you can contact the vet. Typically a wound or surgical incision takes 10 to 14 days to fully heal, so you need to be vigilant for the duration of the healing period or until signed off by the vet.

 

1

Caring For the Stitches

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    Keep your dog from chewing or licking his stitches. After the painkillers and anesthesia wear off, your dog might try chewing or licking his stitches. This can not only damage the skin, but also cause infection. Try to deter him from doing this. You can try disciplining him if he starts to bother the stitches; it may also be necessary to put a muzzle on him.[1]

    • If you have to, have your dog wear a cone collar to prevent him from bothering his stitches until they are healed. Make sure to leave it on for the duration of the healing process. If you take it on and off, your dog might start rebelling when you try to place it on him.[2] You might have to leave it on for up to two weeks.
    • You can also get a neck brace, which makes a dog unable to turn his head. This might help if the cone collar is getting in the way.
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    Try not to let the dog scratch the stitches. Once the wound starts healing, it may start to itch, which means your dog will want to scratch. If this is the case, try to deter this behavior. Sometimes, the cone collar can help. If it doesn’t, then cover the stitches with gauze or bandages. Keep supervising your dog to make sure she’s not scratching them.[3]

    • You can also put booties or wraps on her paws and claws to keep the wound from getting hurt.
    • Scratching can rip open the stitches and the wound. Dirt and bacteria on the dog’s nails can also infect the wound.
    • Scratching and rubbing can also cause swelling. If the wound swells too much, it might cause the stitches to break.
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    Make sure the wound and stitches are clean. Make sure the dog doesn’t get muddy or get the incision dirty. This can cause infection or other complications. This means keeping him from going outside on his own or letting him roam around muddy or wooded areas.[4]

    • Don’t apply ointment, cream, disinfectants, or anything else without your vet’s permission. Don’t use solutions like hydrogen peroxide or alcohol because it can harm the healing process.
    • You should change the dressing according to your vet’s orders.
    • Make sure the dog’s bed is clean. Place a clean sheet or towel on the bed each night and replace when it becomes even lightly soiled.
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    Keep the wound and stitches dry. Do not bathe your dog during the recovery period. The incision and stitches shouldn’t get wet. Moisture can encourage bacteria to multiply and cause an infection. In addition, moisture softens the skin, which makes it a less effective barrier against infection.

    • To keep the stitches and bandages dry when the dog goes outside, place a plastic bag or plastic clingwrap around the area when she goes outside. Just remove it as soon as the dog comes back inside.[5]
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    Monitor the stitches. If there are no bandages, then look at the stitches a couple of times a day. This helps you notice changes or infections. This is very important for the healing of your dog.[6] The healing wound should look clean with the edges touching each other. You may see some bruising around the incision, and the incision might be slightly redder than the skin around it.[7]

    • The incision might be slightly puffy or raised. Minor seepage, like a drop of clear or blood-stained fluid, may occur. However, if you notice abnormal swelling, steady seepage, thick discharge, or yellow-green discharge, contact your vet.
    • Look for any swelling, heated skin, odor, discharge, irritation, or new damage.[8]
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    Cover the incision. If you can’t keep the dog from licking or touching the stitches, you can cover the stitches. If the stitches are on the dog’s torso, try putting a t-shirt on him. Make sure it’s cotton, so it will breathe. Just make sure the t-shirt fits the dog and isn’t too large or too tight. You can tie the shirt to keep it from moving up the dog’s torso.[9]

    • This is helpful if you have multiple dogs and can’t keep them separated.
    • You can also cover the stitches with a bandage. This might be necessary if the wound is on a limb.
    • If the dog scratches at the wound with a back leg, try putting a snug-fitting sock on that paw so the nails can’t rip at the stitches.[10]

2

Monitoring Your Dog’s Behavior

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    Schedule the surgery when you can be at home. Unless the surgery is emergency, try to schedule the surgery at a time where you can be at home with your dog. You want to watch for any odd symptoms, make sure your dogs rests and doesn’t over do it, and just be there for your dog.

    • During this time you shouldn’t have a lot of house guests. Keep your home quiet and calm for your dog so she can rest.
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    Avoid excess activity. When your dog has stitches, you should limit his physical activity. Stretching or over-exertion can cause swelling of the operation site. Don’t let your dog run up and down stairs, jump up to greet people, or engage in other hyper activities. It may stretch the operation site, causing inflammation which leads to swelling, pain, and discomfort.[11]

    • Keep the dog on a leash for seven to 14 days after the injury or surgery. This helps avoid too much activity and helps keep the dog from getting into something that might infect the wound.[12]
    • This may be hard at home. If you can’t keep your dog calm, you may need to put him in a kennel to keep his activity level down.
    • Use barriers to keep the dog from going up the stairs. Whenever you leave the dog alone, put up barriers to keep him from running around or jumping on things.
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    Keep your dog away from other dogs. Other dogs also pose a risk to your dog when she has stitches. Other dogs might want to lick your dog’s wounds, so keep her away from other dogs during the healing period. This includes dogs in your own home.[13]

    • You may also need to keep her in a kennel to keep her away from other animals.
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    Contact the vet if you have concerns. Your pet’s health is the first concern. If you notice any excess bleeding, unusual swelling, or discharge from the wound, contact your vet. If your dog start running a fever, gets sick, throws up, or shows any other signs of poor health, also contact your vet.

    • If you are unsure about anything, call your vet or e-mail her a photo. She can help you determine if your dog is healing normally.[14]

    Reference: https://www.wikihow.com/Care-for-a-Dog-With-Stitches

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